22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Gonna need to lop off the tang on my S12 soon, because I'm installing an internal receiver block. I had a Dremel, and apparently, I either left it up in NY, or it's still in a box shoved into my closet that I haven't opened up since moving here. Anyway, gonna be hitting up Home Depot tomorrow to pick up a hacksaw. Any recommendations on brands? I don't want to spend a ton (it won't be used much), but at the same time, I don't want something that's going to dull half way through the tang. My buddy's got a Sawzall, but no vice or any way to keep it secure enough to keep that monster from kicking the receiver around and it would probably not be very precise, anyway. I listened to you guys before, when it came to converting my x39 Saiga a long time ago, and took the advice on brands of bits needed that wouldn't crap out. So I'm calling on you guys again. What brand hacksaw should I pick up from Home Depot? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battosaii 99 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 i bought a Greatneck brand dremel at Pepboys for $20 yea it may be a cheap one but hey its worked through many of my projects and still works so imo it was a good $20 well spent 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 If you can find a dremel for 20 bucks that would be the route I'd go. Sorry don't know much about hacksaws 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mark4567 4 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 The hacksaw will work fine, Try to get a "lenox" blade with 24 teeth per inch. You will need a file to finish the cut off with too. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Why buy a hacksaw? your on a budget. All you really need is a hacksaw blade and a bastard file. If you have the money for a dremil maybe you can trade with the rocinante who looking for a solution to the lack of tang on his gun... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 i bought a Greatneck brand dremel at Pepboys for $20 yea it may be a cheap one but hey its worked through many of my projects and still works so imo it was a good $20 well spent Just looked that up and AutoZone also carries that brand rotary tool. I'm gonna brave my spare room closet and see if I can find my Dremel, and if I can't find it, I'm going to hit up my neighbor. He works at AutoZone and could hook me up good with a discount on that Great Neck tool, and would probably come out to what I'd pay for a good hacksaw, lol. Thanks for the info, fellas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dwnthehatch 14 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Harbor Freight has one on sale for $10. They are backordered online but may be available at your local store. http://www.harborfreight.com/80-piece-rotary-tool-kit-97626.html 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 You didn't say whether you had done this before. If you haven't, regardless which tool you use, leave a bit of the tang when cutting anf file to finish so as to keep the frame free from dings, scratches, etc. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Update: I ended up picking up one of the Greatneck brand dremel tools from Auto Zone earlier today. Got it for $10 because my neighbor works there. So I hook up a "heavy duty" cut-off wheel, and start in on it. Right before I'm about to get through all the way through the last bit of material, the wheel shatters. No biggie, it came with a ton of them. I hook up another one, and finally get it all the way off. Then I'm not satisfied with how much I took off, and didn't want to be grinding it flush forever, so I take a little more off, and shatter another wheel right before I get it all off (literally, all the ones that broke ended up on the ground cracked into pieces). Hook up another wheel and finish it off. Then I swap to the aluminum oxide grinding stone and start filing it flush. It's working great, up until the stone flies off the shaft (luckily I had my shooting glasses on). So I still have a hair of filing left to do to get the internal block to mount flush, but it's so close that I don't mind going at it with hand files. Then to top it off, I go to remove the stone to replace it......and I can't lock the tool up in order to loosen and remove the shaft. When you push in the button to lock it in place, so you can loosen/tighten whatever attachment you're putting it, it just spins freely. Ah well. Went right back to Auto Zone and returned it for my $10 back, lol. I'll stick with my Dremel, if I can ever find it. You didn't say whether you had done this before. If you haven't, regardless which tool you use, leave a bit of the tang when cutting anf file to finish so as to keep the frame free from dings, scratches, etc. Today was my first experience in cutting a tang, but I did leave some material and then ground it down. Still need to do a tiny bit more filing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bc5000 26 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 You may still need that dremel for the internal receiver block. I had to do a little grinding on the legs of mine for it to go all the way in and be flush with the back of the receiver. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vampire847 9 Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 dremel? hacksaw? my tool of choice... bread knife and my nice lil sharpening rod>.> 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 You may still need that dremel for the internal receiver block. I had to do a little grinding on the legs of mine for it to go all the way in and be flush with the back of the receiver. As far as I can tell, it's only the slight amount of material left from the tang, that's keeping it from seating 100% flush. But thanks for the heads up, and I'll check to see if the legs are bottoming out on something inside the receiver too. dremel? hacksaw? my tool of choice... bread knife and my nice lil sharpening rod>.> Wow. Funny you should mention a bread knife............ Like I said, once the grinding drum was hooked into the dremel tool, that's the one that got stuck. Then I realized that I still hadn't chopped down the Magul MOE grip. So what did I do? I snuck into my girl's expensive kitchen cutlery set, and used a break knife to saw off the beaver tail on the Magpul grip. If she ever finds out, she'll probably kill me. Mum's the word. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 ..........and oh yeah, here's the end result: 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lbsrdi 1,078 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Looks good, those cutting wheels always break. Seems like you got your moneys worth tho, even without returning it. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dwnthehatch 14 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I like it! Good Job. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Acer2428 4 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I have a dremel and an assundry of metal-working tools that would be much faster, but something about 10,000 RPM and a $500 receiver scares me. I'm going to hacksaw it. Very slowly. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I have a dremel and an assundry of metal-working tools that would be much faster, but something about 10,000 RPM and a $500 receiver scares me. I'm going to hacksaw it. Very slowly. There's not a whole lot you can screw up when cutting the tang. Just don't try to cut it flush to the receiver with the cutting wheel. Like was said above, when using the cutting wheel, leave some of the tang, and then finish it off with a grinding wheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
deanald2pt0 0 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 ..........and oh yeah, here's the end result: I'm assuming you used one of those AR grip adapters for the Magpul grip. How do you like it, is it solid? oh, and can you post a close up pic? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 ..........and oh yeah, here's the end result: I'm assuming you used one of those AR grip adapters for the Magpul grip. How do you like it, is it solid? oh, and can you post a close up pic? Yeah, I used the Ace AR-to-AK grip adapter. CSS has them. I'll try to get some close up pics tonight, if not, I'll get them up tomorrow. I can't comment on how solid it is quite yet. It's not meant to work with the Tromix DIY, so I still need to cut down the grip bolt a tad, so I can snug the grip up to the adapter and receiver. That's been my experience with the DIY; because it's designed for the SAW grip, any other grip needs some slight mods to fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 Sorry for the delay. I just snapped a close up pic of the Ace adapter mounted up. Keep in mind, the Ace has a beveled edge on the back of it. So you'd have to get pretty intricate when cutting down the Magpul grip in order for it to fill in the beveled edge perfectly. I didn't personally care to get so detailed (I really couldn't, anyway, since I used a knife to chop the grip down, lol). I haven't shot it yet, but when I shoulder it, the webbing on my hand doesn't get irritated by it or anything. I can't imagine it will be a problem, other than looking a tad "off", which I can live with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
docwade 3 Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 You could narrow the rear portion of your grip adapter to fit into the middle groove of the miad grip. Then it would have just a stepped appearence. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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