ForGreatJustice 1 Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 How secure is it? Is it better than the safety lever notch BHOs (which tend to release the bolt if the gun is given a good smack?) I'm thinking of getting one instead of a notched lever. Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted July 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 In my opinion, they're probably the same. I have heard reports of the notched lever NOT passing the "drop test". The definition given was a 4" drop to the ground. I tried this with my first one I made, with a really stiff spring, it did not pass. These newer springs are not nearly as stiff, and I have had it both fail and pass the 4" to 5" drop test. I wish I could say it passes perfectly everytime, but that would make me a liar. There's an awful lot of tension against it with the bolt back, so I'm not 100% suprised... Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
ForGreatJustice 1 Posted July 17, 2005 Report Share Posted July 17, 2005 Couple more questions: 1) Can the bolt be retracted and locked back one-handed (if you brace the shotgun against the ground, or something)? 2) To release the bolt, all you have to do is yank the charging handle right? Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted July 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 Couple more questions:1) Can the bolt be retracted and locked back one-handed (if you brace the shotgun against the ground, or something)? 2) To release the bolt, all you have to do is yank the charging handle right? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Answers to both are yes. I can pull back the charging handle and reach down with my middle finger to push the BHO up in to place. It's not much of a reach. You don't even need to brace the gun against the ground, you can do it from just about any position. To release the bolt, just pull back on the charging handle slightly, you'll hear a click, and release. Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
DaGroaner 2 Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 (edited) Couple more questions:1) Can the bolt be retracted and locked back one-handed (if you brace the shotgun against the ground, or something)? 2) To release the bolt, all you have to do is yank the charging handle right? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Answers to both are yes. I can pull back the charging handle and reach down with my middle finger to push the BHO up in to place. It's not much of a reach. You don't even need to brace the gun against the ground, you can do it from just about any position. To release the bolt, just pull back on the charging handle slightly, you'll hear a click, and release. Jeric <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I rec'd my BHO kits from Jeric and they are of excellent quality. Now if I can just get the courage up to start making chips. Maybe today I'll go for it. Jeric, Would you recommend installing the BHO and scribing the cutout area using the BHO as a template on the inside of the receiver, and then drilling it out from the inside? Or is it better to calculate the proper position and work from the outside? Thanks for getting the BHOs out to me so quick. Edited July 23, 2005 by DaGroaner Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted July 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 I did mine from the outside. You can still use the BHO as a guide as to where to drill/cut the hole. I have the exact dimensions, but not with me now. I will post these Monday evening along with (I hope..) the how-to tutorial. Otherwise DaGroaner, you (and everyone else who has purchased from me so far) will receive a printed version in the mail this week. Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
Rusty 0 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 Recieved kit today. Looks very nice Jeric. I can't wait for the instructions Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted July 25, 2005 Report Share Posted July 25, 2005 +1 Thanks Jeric! Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted July 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2005 UPDATE. DaGraoner just reminded me of something that is kinda important. If you have a Saiga that was professionaly converted, the holes for the old trigger group may have been welded over and finished. In this case, you'll need to get the A Kit, since there is no way to use the internal cross member any longer. I have edited the originating post as well, but just wanted to cover all the bases. Thanks! Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
USMC_LB 4 Posted July 31, 2005 Report Share Posted July 31, 2005 Jeric, I realy love "your" idea of the BHO you're selling on this board! I wonder where you got the idea for it? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Maybe I am out of line and I am sorry for stepping on toes but after reading that remark from you I cant stop shaking my head in dis-belief... What exactly the fuck does that mean, Makc ?? Many, many people have needed BHO devices and all you have offered them is this... Maybe you can explain why your BHO advertisements say OUT OF STOCK.... LB Link to post Share on other sites
DaGroaner 2 Posted August 4, 2005 Report Share Posted August 4, 2005 Ok, one down and one to go. I should have waited for the directions but I couldn't. It wasn't that hard to figure out anyway and it was a piece of cake. Looks good, works perfectly. Thanks again Jeric! I'll do my other one this weekend. Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted August 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2005 Great to hear! The second one is always easier than the first... Thanks again DaGroaner! Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
Z1500 0 Posted August 13, 2005 Report Share Posted August 13, 2005 You say you recommend the 'B' kit over the 'A' for a converted gun. I was going to convert mine in the next couple weeks and weld up those holes. But if kit 'A' is a PITA then I'll just leave the holes and get 'B'. What do you think I should do? Kevin Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted August 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2005 You say you recommend the 'B' kit over the 'A' for a converted gun. I was going to convert mine in the next couple weeks and weld up those holes. But if kit 'A' is a PITA then I'll just leave the holes and get 'B'. What do you think I should do? Kevin <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Kevin, If you were planning on welding up the holes, I would say you should weld up the rear holes, and keep the forward ones open. This still allows you to utilize the forward holes for the screws that you need to use with the B Kit, and yet keeps your receiver looking well finished. That, in my opinion, would be the best of both worlds. Hope this helps you make your decision. Keep me posted! Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
USP40 1 Posted August 14, 2005 Report Share Posted August 14, 2005 Jeric did you recieve a check from South Carolina yet? Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted August 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2005 Jeric did you recieve a check from South Carolina yet? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sure did, yesterday morning. I'll deposit it on Monday, your BHO will go out on Wednesday at the latest. Actually, probably Tuesday, since I am leaving town for a few days starting Wed... You should see it by the end of the week. Thanks USP40, I appreciate your business! Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
USP40 1 Posted August 14, 2005 Report Share Posted August 14, 2005 Thnaks Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 (edited) The Figure A drawing on the instructions is really shown way out of whack. Sure, it's not to scale, but it is so grossly off it is going to cause some confusion. The hole is dim'd to start 2.75" from the back of the receiver, which is correct, but it is physically drawn at about 2.5" compared to the position of the trigger hole. It is also dim'd at .125" from the center of the slot to the outer edge of the receiver. This is just incorrect. The slot needs to be .250" from the outer edge of the receiver. In the position shown, it puts the BHO lever in a bind and it will not move freely. There is actually a doubler up against the inside R/H wall of the receiver which moves the lever off the inside of the receiver wall by about .125". This is not taken into account on the drawing. See pic. Correct hole location compared to the goofy drawing that comes with the BHO kit. http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=322278 Edited September 8, 2005 by TonyRumore Link to post Share on other sites
pedal2alloy 206 Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 The Figure A drawing on the instructions is really shown way out of whack. Sure, it's not to scale, but it is so grossly off it is going to cause some confusion. The hole is dim'd to start 2.75" from the back of the receiver, which is correct, but it is physically drawn at about 2.5" compared to the position of the trigger hole. It is also dim'd at .125" from the center of the slot to the outer edge of the receiver. This is just incorrect. The slot needs to be .250" from the outer edge of the receiver. In the position shown, it puts the BHO lever in a bind and it will not move freely. There is actually a doubler up against the inside R/H wall of the receiver which moves the lever off the inside of the receiver wall by about .125". This is not taken into account on the drawing. See pic. Correct hole location compared to the goofy drawing that comes with the BHO kit. http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=322278 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> All mods should be considered "beta" until they have gone thru Tromix. Link to post Share on other sites
HAWK 0 Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Will this affect my parts count for 922 compliance? Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted September 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 (edited) Edited September 8, 2005 by Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted September 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 Will this affect my parts count for 922 compliance? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> This will not count towards your 922r compliance as it is not counted as a seperate part per the ATF's definition. At least that's how I understand it. Thanks Hawk. Jeric Link to post Share on other sites
HAWK 0 Posted September 8, 2005 Report Share Posted September 8, 2005 (edited) Damn, it was worth a shot! Thanx for the info Jeric Edited September 8, 2005 by HAWK Link to post Share on other sites
pedal2alloy 206 Posted September 9, 2005 Report Share Posted September 9, 2005 No kidding! I was maybe smoking crack? Thanks Tony. I sincerely hope it didn't cause any problems for anyone, my apologies.I have re-fined the "fig A" drawing. Although, instead of the incorrect .125", I would say it should be .187" rather than .25". That's how it's reflected in the new drawing as well as the instruction sheet. I have posted a how-to as well. See post http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=7644 Jeric <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Don't worry about it - minor mistake. Great job on the kits and the tutorial. You are one of only a few that have done the R&D necessary to create a useful S12 mod. Really nice product and really good instructions. Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted September 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 btt Link to post Share on other sites
edman99 0 Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 Jeric Can you send an email with your contact info? I'm interested in one of the "B" kits. Thanks: ed eeldridge@charter.net Link to post Share on other sites
Jeric 0 Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 While we're at it... bumpity bump Link to post Share on other sites
vbrtrmn 167 Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Sent you a PM. Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Good luck... Link to post Share on other sites
cynical 8 Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 So kit "B" is for converted Saigas, but to me it looks like an internal ACE block will be in the way. So if you are using the ACE block you will either have to cut a decent part off the end of the block, or should stick to kit "A", is that corrrect? Link to post Share on other sites
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