cynical

Damn! That one was worth the price of admission right there! Falls very strongly into the "why didn't I think of that" category.

Is it me, or is the top edge of that thing fluted right where you'd be trying to get a cheekweld? Why didn't they sharpen the edge while they were at it?

Latch for a side-folding stock. This is for the solid plastic left side folders. The need for this latch (and the receiver cut-out) is why it's so expensive to add a stock like this to an S-12 or a rifle that didn't come with this from the factory.

With the Krebs unit you get a ghost ring rear sight as well. Also, forum member Dinzag has a few options: http://www.dinzagarms.com/saiga_12/fsbs12.html

I don't know if it's the recommended approach, but the first thing I'd try is to brace it upside down, then hit it from below (at an angle so nothing drips on your hands) with a small torch. Nothing too serious, you don't want to heat it so hot the metal starts to glow, but any plastic and most glues will drip out long before you affect the metal. If you have a soldering iron with a long, narrow tip, that might do the trick as well. On the other hand, you could just replace the front sight drum (the part the post screws into that you asked about). It will push out with a sight adjustmen

On AK rifles with a similar bulge at the front of the receiver, that's still the receiver bulged out to wrap around the trunnion. I never looked that closely at that area on my S-12 and just assumed it was the same. You learn something new every day.

That would be news to me. In all the stamped receiver AK-pattern rifles, it's the sheet metal assembly with the trunnion riveted in that's the serial-numbered receiver. Is the S-12 different? I guess you could make a milled receiver that a front trunnion could be installed into, but in the milled receiver rifles the barrel goes straight into the receiver with no separate trunnion.

I second that. Aside from adding weight, what would I get that the current stamped receiver doesn't give me? The sad part about the scarcity of parts is that you'll have to destroy one S-12 for each one you build on a milled receiver, so it really needs to add something worthwhile. I think the potential is there to have an integral magwell, maybe an integral rail and/or sight mounts, and no doubt other things I can't think of off the top of my head. With a few features like that, I think it definitely has possibilities. But just a plain milled receiver? Doubt it.

I think the preferred way for many is to fold to the left. That's the way the Russian and Bulgarian folders which are very popular now(and a HUGE improvement over the older wire folders) go. But for me, my rifle and my S-12 are both set up to fold to the right. Yes, it gets in the way of the safety and charging handle, but I don't have a need or even a desire to fire either one folded. With the stock folded out of the way to the right, the stock can stay folded even when slung, and if I have a scope on a side mount I don't need to remove it to fold the stock. With the ACE non-push-b

I'm not crazy about anything involving glue, especially on a trigger. The RSA adjustable trigger and Cobra's modified trigger group (what I have on my S-12) are two good ways to go.

Dude, it would be really helpful if you tossed a period or two in there.

The ACE skeleton stock is aluminum, except for the top tube which is Delrin (plastic). Makes sense, it's strong enough, but you don't have a cold metal tube against your cheek. I don't know about the Ultralight stock or the AR stocks they make, but the skeleton stock worked well enough on my rifle that I got one for my S-12 conversion (with the thicker pad). Save yourself a lot of hassle and order from one of the forum partners rather than direct from ACE. The internal blocks are all pretty much compatible with the ACE and DPH stocks. If you use the ACE internal block, you'll have to d

Whether or not a right-side folder will interfere with the charging handle depends entirely on how you install it. I wanted the upper tube of the stock in line with the bore to reduce muzzle rise as much as possible, so I probably mounted mine higher than others may have. I'm not interested in firing it with the stock folded, so it wasn't a concern with me. With the stock that high, it will NOT clear the charging handle. In fact, the stock will not rest flat against the receiver as the 1" buttpad hits the charging handle. With the 1/2" pad, it might fold flat, but no matter what I could n

The MI handguard already has a rail on the top, why would you want to put an Ultimak under that? I guess you could remove the top of the handguard and use the Ultimak INSTEAD of the top rail, but that seems like added expense for not much gain (an Ultimak would keep an optic mounted lower). If you don't mind the added height, putting an optic on top of an MI handguard rail would keep the sight cooler. I don't know if the MI setup requires the top section to stay mounted or not. I don't think any Galil-style handguard will fit with an Ultimak without some serious modifications to cut

A little slop in sight alignment isn't that big of a deal with iron sights on a shotgun. You're not talking precision shots here. With optics on a rifle, a little movement makes a HUGE difference.