Wallabing 0 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 I took apart and inspected my saiga 223 after a range session and I noticed that the rear of the bolt (where the hammer strikes the firing pin) has been deformed. I noticed that the Tapco g2 hammer face has a rounded hammer face to it, and is not flat. Now the "butt" of the bolt has an inward bulge/ deformation to it that matches the rounded hammerface of the G2. What can I do to correct this, or is this not a big deal at all? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) I took apart and inspected my saiga 223 after a range session and I noticed that the rear of the bolt (where the hammer strikes the firing pin) has been deformed. I noticed that the Tapco g2 hammer face has a rounded hammer face to it, and is not flat. Now the "butt" of the bolt has an inward bulge/ deformation to it that matches the rounded hammerface of the G2. What can I do to correct this, or is this not a big deal at all? Sounds like your bolt is defective. I'd see if the warranty could get it taken care of, or you might buy another bolt from K-Var. Edited June 18, 2011 by Jim Digriz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 When my saiga 223 was unconverted and was in it's factory config, Ive put 800 rounds through it and the rear of the bolt looked fine. Now when I converted it and added a tapco g2 unit, this problem appears after 100 rounds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 I'm doubting that the damage to the rear of the bolt is problematic, I'd re-profile the hammer and call it good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 I'm doubting that the damage to the rear of the bolt is problematic, I'd re-profile the hammer and call it good. Agreed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CPF 80 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Could you take pictures of the damaged bolt? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Let me run to my brothers apartment for a camera. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Looks negligible to me. As long as the striker floats freely within, it is GtG. Re-profile hammer and carry on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 I wouldn't be satisfied with that myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Does this mean the G2 is not compatible with saiga 223's? I thought it was drop in. Could I have bought a very old version of the G2? I bought it from midwayusa. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 The Tapco G-2 is supposed to be a drop in part for the AK. The Saiga isn't an actual AK though, and it requires a few mods for it to work best in a Saiga. Whether it's a rifle or a shotgun, determines what mods are best to do to end up with the best trigger possible. All the triggers I sell are modified to work best in the particular Saiga rifle or shotgun they are being bought for. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 What does re-profiling the hammer do? Is my bolt still salvagable? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Re-profiling, i.e. flattening the hammer's face, will allow it to strike flat on the blot's tail, and stop it's current effect. I think it looks OK, but others may/do disagree... YMMV. Thinking it through... If the metallurgy of the bolt was bad (soft), I would think the bolt might've shown wear from the original hammer. So I think it is simply the hammer's profile, correct it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Is the hammer face suppose to hit the rear of the bolt perfectly flat? I've flattened the hammer face on my Tapco G2, but it doesnt hit/engage of the rear of the bolt completely flat, it strikes it at a slight angle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CPF 80 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Could you please take a picture of the hammer? I am wondering if it is the same model as mine, as I have seen two different types of tapco g2 hammers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beefcakeb99 572 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 The Tapco G-2 is supposed to be a drop in part for the AK. The Saiga isn't an actual AK though, and it requires a few mods for it to work best in a Saiga. Whether it's a rifle or a shotgun, determines what mods are best to do to end up with the best trigger possible. All the triggers I sell are modified to work best in the particular Saiga rifle or shotgun they are being bought for. Wait...what? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Could you please take a picture of the hammer? I am wondering if it is the same model as mine, as I have seen two different types of tapco g2 hammers. Yes, I noticed there is two kinds of Tapco G2's I got this one. You can see the curvature on the hammerface in this picture, it's not perfectly flat. Then there is this one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Yes, I noticed there is two kinds of Tapco G2's Interesting. Gabe Suarez said on his forum recently that the latest batch of G2s he got from Tapco were out of spec, and that he sent them all back. It took me a while, but I finally decided that Tapco produces junk along their whole product line. The only thing I have left from them in my rifles are the pistol grip screw and bolt. And even that may turn out to be a mistake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Does anyone else have this problem? (Dent and deformation at the rear of the bolt) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MLM0358 107 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 I too have had Tapco triogger problems. I put a brand new Tapco G2 on a Saiga 12 and the hammer broke in the middle of the Ironman 3 gun match. It literally broke into two pieces in the middle of a stage. I'm now installing Red Star Arms triggers on all the S-12s I build. These are machined, not cast like Tapco triggers. Also they adjustable for pre-travel, overtravel, disconnector engagement, and disconnector spring tension, It's more expensive, but far superior. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wallabing 0 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) I just received my Arsenal single stage trigger in the mail. The hammer contacts the rear of the saiga bolt 100% flat. I'm throwing this Tapco G2 s*** in the trash, and never ever buying a Tapco product ever agian. Edited June 20, 2011 by Wallabing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spetnaz Soldier 47 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 damn this is exactly what mine is doing. what should i do install my stock hammer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vance665 225 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Does anyone else have this problem? (Dent and deformation at the rear of the bolt) I'll check my s223 when I get home, it has a G2 trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 (edited) I haven't used the G2 hammer in my S223 since almost the beginning, since I read this thread when I started doing the conversion. It has a Bulgarian AK-74 hammer. You can also reinstall the factory hammer with a spacer shim (the right side of the hammer pin channel is too short), or reinstall the BHO. Bulgarian/Russian hammer is also significantly smoother than the G2 hammer. They work fine with the G2 trigger and disconnector - no issues, though some other people reported short disengagement and potential fire-when-safe geometry problems. Keep in mind 922r. You lose one part by dropping the hammer. You can also just reprofile the G2 hammer so that it more closely matches the factory hammer. This would take a bit of grinding. I seriously doubt that the G2 hammer will ever DESTROY the .223 bolt. It's still going to make adequate firing pin contact even if the bolt tail is peened. Edited January 31, 2013 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matthew Hopkins 1,065 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 that was a common problem with the SAR3s (.223 AK), the .223 bolt has a shorter "tail" on the bolt then 7.62 bolt, so the US hammer which was fine for the 7.62 hit the back of the bolt "tail" at a angle and caused deformation. you can do 1 or 2 things, re-profile the US hammer, so that it strikes square on the bolt 'tail" or put the original hammer in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 I file the hammer face to strike the firing pin square, JUST LIKE THE FACTORY HAMMER. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sport Rescue 245 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spetnaz Soldier 47 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 that was a common problem with the SAR3s (.223 AK), the .223 bolt has a shorter "tail" on the bolt then 7.62 bolt, so the US hammer which was fine for the 7.62 hit the back of the bolt "tail" at a angle and caused deformation. you can do 1 or 2 things, re-profile the US hammer, so that it strikes square on the bolt 'tail" or put the original hammer in. so i reprofiled mine as ive posted a couple times already and im sorry if im starting to get on any bodies nerves; i just wanna make sure my rifle will last a long time. i put some masking tape on the end of the bolt where the hammer makes contact and its better now but still not 100% flush. should i shoot for 100% flush or will i be ok. and how could i tell if the bolt was softer than it should be? i do have close to 2000 rounds through the rifle and the wear is not that bad at all. would take pics but my camera sucks. what do you guys think? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 stop worrying about it. nothing is going to happen to your rifle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.