wayfaerer320 16 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Got all the parts for my conversion from CSS for my Saiga 12 - just wondering which paint I should pick up at the hardware store that will match the original Izzy factory finish when I have to touch up the trigger guard underbelly area? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stnls1911 55 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 This is what I used. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_7144334-P_x_x?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Google-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=7144334 After spraying, I put the receiver in a pre-heated 200 degree oven. I left it in there for 30 minutes, it dried nicely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Yep, Duplicolor low gloss engine enamel for a rattle can match... But how about the toughest spray & bake coating? Anybody know if there's anything tougher than cerakote? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bartertownshakedown 1 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Rustoleum BBQ black is very good stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Anyone ever try spray on bedliner? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 (edited) I have used Rustoleum Professional Enamel (ETA: semi gloss) with good results. I lay a light coat down and go over it again from about 20" away which yields a nice texture that is similar to the factory finish. The 'evlblk-box-o-parts' S12 was painted with this stuff and it has held up well for what it is. +1 on the Cerakote I have been wanting to try it and scored an oven by buying the wife a new one Edited August 22, 2011 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lidocaine Looney 26 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Anyone ever try spray on bedliner? Have you ever sprayed that stuff? My folks own a body/mechanical shop and do bedliners as well. It's pretty messy to deal with and the texture that it would leave wouldn't look very good on a gun, IMHO.. Besides that, you'd need the materials.. spray gun, compressor, bedliner components, blah blah blah.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Mivet 6 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 FYI, you can get spray can bedliner at Advance, about 10 bucks a can. The finish isn't as knarly as the can stuff, more like an undercoat finish that gets much harder. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Anyone ever try spray on bedliner? people have tried it and it usually looks terrible Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 i wouldnt be too concerned about looks, the durability of it would be crazy. but the saftey would require some creativity to make it work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Mivet 6 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 FYI, the finish on the stuff Advance had, is no where near as rough as the factory applied stuff, but, its still very thick, so I don't think it would work well on critical fit areas, such as handguard and stock insertion areas, or where you don't have more than a few thousands of an inch clearance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wayfaerer320 16 Posted August 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 (edited) This is what I used. http://shop.advancea...&ci_sku=7144334 I ended up going with this paint - Picked it up at Advance earlier today, just finished applying it. Just letting it dry now before moving on... By the way, drilling out the rivets holding the trigger guard in place was a major pain in the ass, but I finally got them out. Edited August 23, 2011 by Wayfaerer320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lidocaine Looney 26 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Good luck pulling the tape off without the finish... I taped mine up to try and be neat with it while hitting it with some rustoleum... I peeled the tape off, along with finish, so I just decided to paint and clear the whole gun with automotive paint.. Hopefully that isn't the typical result and you have better luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 For best color match, paint the whole gun. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 For best color match, paint the whole gun. . ....'or just the whole receiver. Tape off the rails, plug the bore, tape off the barrel hood and feedramp too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Yep, Duplicolor low gloss engine enamel for a rattle can match... But how about the toughest spray & bake coating? Anybody know if there's anything tougher than cerakote? If there is, I haven't seen it yet. That stuff is hard. It's also a real PITA to work with. I quit messing with it, and went back to Moly Resin. That holds up real well, actually. I don't even do Duracoat anymore, unless someone wants a color Norrells doesn't have. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JAldrich2008 28 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 If you lay a piece of paper towel on the gun where you want your paint line, but don't quite let it touch, you will get a nice fade between the old and the new paint. I can hardly tell where mine changes. I used Duplicolor engine enamel, I believe it was #3164. It has held up very well over the last year. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Yep, Duplicolor low gloss engine enamel for a rattle can match... But how about the toughest spray & bake coating? Anybody know if there's anything tougher than cerakote? If there is, I haven't seen it yet. That stuff is hard. It's also a real PITA to work with. I quit messing with it, and went back to Moly Resin. That holds up real well, actually. I don't even do Duracoat anymore, unless someone wants a color Norrells doesn't have. I think I'm going to start offering doing cerakote as an option on carriers.I bead blasted a unit with it that I was about to Icerack & it was ridiculously durable. When people want me to do vertical charging handles I currently paint the carrier with low gloss high temp enamel for free if they want, but I want to be able to offer the absolute most durable also. I got so tired of switching blasting media between glass bead for cleaning the parts up before doing IceRack or GlassBolt & using aluminum oxide before spraying, that I said screw it & just got a second blasting setup. When I get a blast cabinet, I disassemble it & reassemble it with RTV scilicone in place of gaskets except for the door so when I turn on the cabinet's 5hp Rigid shopvac it makes tremendous negative pressure to keep all the bead going through the vacuum & filtered out of the air so it doesn't coat the shop & throw off the precision of the lathes & mill, not to mention me breathing it. Now, I have to switch the blasting cabinets so the small one is for Glass & the large one is for aluminum oxide so I can fit full guns in the aluminum oxide cabinet easier. I think I'll give it a go & see about setting up a cerakote station. But damn... They sure don't give that product away! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 +1 on the MolyResin for complete refinishing. Pauly, if you haven't tried it, give it a shot before going with cerakote. Considering you're prep work I can't imagine cerakote being better. After you work with the Norrells product a bit you'll find that you can achieve a variety of finishes depending on how high you pre-heat or by pulling back on your finish coat. There just hasn't been any product I've found to be easier to use with no waste since you don't have to mix with a hardener. The stuff shoots really well as it's a very thin MEK base and evaporates/flashes almost instantly when it hits the warm metal. Bake it and your good to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Well Pauly, I'll tell you what happened when I tried Cerakote. For starters, I have a blast cabinet loaded with about 80 grit aluminum oxide, which is suitable for base blasting for Duracoat, Moly Resin, and Cerakote. I have a baking oven that goes up to 400 degrees, and will hold several barreled actions. I spary with a Badger airbrush, using either a 1oz or 2oz jar, depending. I do have a smaller size HVLP gun, but since I like to get all of the inside as well as the outside, it just didn't suit me, and I went back to the airbrush. Like Duracoat, Cerakote mixes with a hardener, so once mixed, it's either used or thrown out. Unlike Duracoat, Cerakote stays tacky indefinately, or did for me. No matter whether I preheated the parts or not. It was still tacky after an hour, and yes, it was warm in the shop. I only used it on 3 or 4 guns, and every one has fingerprints in them, since they wouldn't dry off. You can handle Duracoat in anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes. Also, it is very difficult to get it to draw into an airbrush. It needs to be sprayed from a gravity feed system, and the only airbrush gravity fed systems are the small detail guns. It also goes on a bit thicker than they advertise, I had some fitting to do afterwards on a 1911 I did. Even Duracoat, which is just basically an epoxy paint, will airbrush. Moly Resin, on the other hand, requires no mixing, just pour it into the sprayer and shoot. You do need to shake it up good, and agitating the sprayer jar occaisionally is helpful also. When finished, pour the unused part back in the bottle. No trying to guess how much to mix so you don't waste too much. It goes on so thin you'd swear you're shooting colored water. You can handle the parts carefully in 5 to 10 minutes, depending on air temp and part temp. Changing part temp will change the surface texture, as well as spray distance. It's about the same price as Duracoat, which is cheaper than Cerakote. Since there is no hardener, it never cures until you bake it. Therefore, you don't have to worry about pot time and cleanup, it will clean up when you're ready. For colors, Duracoat takes the cake, with over 120 colors. Moly Resin has about 20-30 colors. Cerakote has close to 40 colors. I don't do Duracoat anymore unless someone wants something I cannot get in Moly Resin. The Cerakote was just too difficult to work with, and the results just sisn't look as good as Moly Resin. Cerakote is the hardest, followed by Moly Resin and then Duracoat and Alumahyde. There's a thread here about gas puck fouling, and there's a pic of the select fire S12 I did last year for JMacken. He has a close up of the selector. I sent him that gun late last summer. It's moly Resined. The selector has hardly worn through where they typically make that groove in the side of the receiver. That's pretty good. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Well Pauly, I'll tell you what happened when I tried Cerakote. For starters, I have a blast cabinet loaded with about 80 grit aluminum oxide, which is suitable for base blasting for Duracoat, Moly Resin, and Cerakote. I have a baking oven that goes up to 400 degrees, and will hold several barreled actions. I spary with a Badger airbrush, using either a 1oz or 2oz jar, depending. I do have a smaller size HVLP gun, but since I like to get all of the inside as well as the outside, it just didn't suit me, and I went back to the airbrush. Like Duracoat, Cerakote mixes with a hardener, so once mixed, it's either used or thrown out. Unlike Duracoat, Cerakote stays tacky indefinately, or did for me. No matter whether I preheated the parts or not. It was still tacky after an hour, and yes, it was warm in the shop. I only used it on 3 or 4 guns, and every one has fingerprints in them, since they wouldn't dry off. You can handle Duracoat in anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes. Also, it is very difficult to get it to draw into an airbrush. It needs to be sprayed from a gravity feed system, and the only airbrush gravity fed systems are the small detail guns. It also goes on a bit thicker than they advertise, I had some fitting to do afterwards on a 1911 I did. Even Duracoat, which is just basically an epoxy paint, will airbrush. Moly Resin, on the other hand, requires no mixing, just pour it into the sprayer and shoot. You do need to shake it up good, and agitating the sprayer jar occaisionally is helpful also. When finished, pour the unused part back in the bottle. No trying to guess how much to mix so you don't waste too much. It goes on so thin you'd swear you're shooting colored water. You can handle the parts carefully in 5 to 10 minutes, depending on air temp and part temp. Changing part temp will change the surface texture, as well as spray distance. It's about the same price as Duracoat, which is cheaper than Cerakote. Since there is no hardener, it never cures until you bake it. Therefore, you don't have to worry about pot time and cleanup, it will clean up when you're ready. For colors, Duracoat takes the cake, with over 120 colors. Moly Resin has about 20-30 colors. Cerakote has close to 40 colors. I don't do Duracoat anymore unless someone wants something I cannot get in Moly Resin. The Cerakote was just too difficult to work with, and the results just sisn't look as good as Moly Resin. Cerakote is the hardest, followed by Moly Resin and then Duracoat and Alumahyde. There's a thread here about gas puck fouling, and there's a pic of the select fire S12 I did last year for JMacken. He has a close up of the selector. I sent him that gun late last summer. It's moly Resined. The selector has hardly worn through where they typically make that groove in the side of the receiver. That's pretty good. This single post just saved me a shitload of expense and headache. JMAcken's S12 looks great and I would have thought it was freshly done. Nice work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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