HansenACR 5 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) Hey all I've been hovering around the forums for awhile and used the great info provided to do my S12 conversion. As soon as I picked it up I took it apart and got it ready to convert and finally finished it up this weekend. It shot like a champ with everything I fed it aside from a few FTE's with federal bulk (about 10 out of 100). I started out with remington buckshot and slugs to warm her up and get things moving, then finished off with a little clay shooting. It's a TGI import, 4 gas hole gun. I'm guessing it's a new import because it is lacking the side rail. Mods I performed: Mako recoil stock Hogue Grip Tapco G2 FCG (reprofile was no fun) MD arms triggerguard BHO mod (ease of safety removal) Polish bolt Thanks to all who contribute to the vast information on this site! Edited February 22, 2012 by HansenACR 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) No dumb questions? You're no fun. Looks like you did a great job. I like those MD trigger guards too. I have really been interested in what one of those handguards might look like if it were "bobbed" to the front of the gas block with maybe a very slight (1/4") radius at the top corner. You could get to the regulator plunger much easier. Try it and post pics. Here is what a standard handguard looks like with the "hot dog bun" looking portion bobbed on a belt sander.... BTW Excellent first post. Possibly the best that I have ever seen in my now 3000+ posts. No dumb questions, no sporterized S12 pics, you actually figured out how to post pics, and a very nice looking S12. Welcome aboard and thank you for your service! Edited February 23, 2012 by evlblkwpnz 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HansenACR 5 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Thanks ev! That might look pretty good and provide easier access to the plug. If I decide to chop it off I'll post some pics. And wait, I like to be fun!Here's one for you See the burrs left from the factory drilling? Should I shoot it out (I've already put slugs through it) or get in there with a tool? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Just shoot it. I used to worry about them, but don't worry too much about it anymore. Anything that will not come out with a copper brush gives you a great excuse to create a large pile of hulls at the range Really, it is fine. If it really worries you, you can use the side of a very small drill bit to pull the burrs out if you hold it at an angle (by hand). If they are not big enough to grab with the side of that bit. FIDO. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HansenACR 5 Posted February 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Shooting it out works for me! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Welcome. Looks like a good start and even a respectable end point. +1 on what evl said about making it so that you can push the gas knob detente with your finger. It makes the factory plug tool less. It can be done without drastically removing all the material though, a simple divot by the detente should be adequate. I would at least poke a bent wire through those ports. a burr in there could make the difference in gas flow to bump you up to 95%. It really isn't hard to knock off the block and enlarge as needed either. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
haugpatr 972 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Excellent first post! Usually it is the "where should I send my gun to get converted, I can't do it". I like the VZ, I really want one to go with my CZ-52's! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deadeye 325 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 the Mako recoil stock might efect ejecting on weak loads till you break her in and polish just a thought 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RED333 1,025 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 HansenACR, well we got another hooked on these things, fun to shoot aint they? Welcome and thanks for your service. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 No dumb questions? You're no fun. Here's one (2) for you. If Saiga barrels are chrome plated, how come they're not shiny? Is Russian chrome different than 56 Buick chrome? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Looks good, HansenARC. Welcome to the club. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 No dumb questions? You're no fun. Here's one (2) for you. If Saiga barrels are chrome plated, how come they're not shiny? Is Russian chrome different than 56 Buick chrome? Yours isn't shiny??!! Haven't you done the chrome auto paste wax power buffer mod yet? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) Mine is shiny like a mirror inside. Maybe it's just sparkly clean. Edited February 22, 2012 by Yeoldetool Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Hard chrome is not bumper chrome. It is meant to be hard, not made to shine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yooper14.5 84 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Ramlake posted a very good explanation of the chrome difference in another thread, here it is: It's an electro plating process just like normal chrome Decorative chrome is normally copper / nickle / chrome The term triple chrome is the same except there's 3 layers of nickle with buffing between to act as a filler that fills tiny imperfections and makes for an even smoother look. copper as a primer nickle give the shine chrome as a protective layer to stop oxidation The chrome is so thin you acually see thru it and your seeing the nickle Hard chrome is just chromium applied much thicker and gives supperior corrosion and abrasive protection Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Mine is shiny... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 I have never cleaned the bore of the evlblk-box-o-parts S12. This thing is a local legend and draws a crowd from time to time. There's just something about the distinct sound of a Kalashnikov and the distinct sound of a shotgun rolled into one.... at rapid succession. I couldn't even begin to estimate how many rounds are on it, but the bore is extremely shiny, even after my last hardcore session when the shot cups were melting before they made it out of the barrel ("hot" is an understatement). I just noticed that the lockup looks like the side of a 25 year old push mover.... dirty girl. The top of my mag catch almost looks chrome too. I polished it with MD-20s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HansenACR 5 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 GunFun- I actually used an angled pick to get in there and clean the ports and attempt to remove the burr (broke the tip off the pick, recovered it). I'm gonna run a few hundred more shells before deciding to take the block off, but it is an option. Hog76- If I'm gonna shoot x39, 9/10 times it'll be out of the VZ58. It's a real pleasure to shoot and considerably more accuate than my WASR. Red33- If I was driving you would've gotten me in a car accident...sorry, I can't focus on the mirror or your post! haha Thanks for your support I have a Ruskie SKS with a chromed bore and you can see the chrome at the muzzle- low gloss at best but very easy to clean. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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