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Welding on a s-12 ?


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Hey all. I've got a HK style sight that I want welded onto my barrel. Also a bayo lug. What is the prefered method? Actual welding? Silver solder? TIG welding? Will it screw up the chrome in the barrel? I have just found a liscensed gunsmith here in town - haven't talked to him yet, don't know what he is capable of. Also, just found through a co-worker, a jewelry craftsman that should be able to do the work? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Pro's and Con's please. Thank you.

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I know people who have had guns welded on before. It is all down to the welder he can not get the barrel to hot or he could damage the integrity of the ID of the barrel. I do think welding on a gun is a good method to choose but I would make sure I had a very good welder who knew what he was doing because a little to much heat and you barrel won't be any good any more. So just check up on it first good luck with your build

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Well, I got a HK sight cheap. Just cut the bottom circle, spread it and weld it to the front end. If it's going to mess everything up (the chrome), I guess I could get Dinzags bolt on sight. I have Dinzags bolt on bayo lug. I want the sight on the front end of the shotty. I have a thread on muzzle break that holds the AR/M16 bayo. I don't want to screw my shotgun up. I have a Mossberg 590 with ghost sights. How do they do it? Weld it on before they chrome the barrel? Epoxy it on? I've been debating this for about a year now. I just want to get it done. Thanks. EDIT = correction, the bayo lug is NOT bolt on. It is just a circle, looks like it must be welded on, also.

Edited by coronet
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The sight will not have to resist a lot of force, so you could silver solder, braze or TIG weld it on there. The thing is to find a real welder who knows how to do precision shit. As far as the bayo lug, unless you are going to be digging potatoes with it, you are just putting it on there for decoration, so the same thing applies. So an even better idea would be to just forget it.

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Check www.Brownells.com... there are low temp solders that bond well with metal when a special flux is used. Silver solder / normal brasing rods arn't generally molten til in the 1050/1100 degree range....a little hot I would think...I've used the heat absorbing materal you pack around the weld area to pull the heat away... it works, your going to need something to pull the heat away... About 6000 degrees at the tip of the heli-arc (TIG), be careful..... Food for thought ... the old fire sprinkler heads used a drop of low temp solder to keep the spring intact... too hot.. zing goes the spring...that's how they work...

Edited by mikeAZ
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EVERY front HK sight I have seen on an S12 was on top of the gas block or on a rail over the gas block. If you put it on the barrel I think it will be too low to be useful. If you are REALLY set on putting it on the barrel maybe have a machinist make a ring that slides over the barrel with set screws to fasten it and weld the sight to that, you could have the Bayonet lug welded to it too.

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TIG weld usually. I had a guy TIG a brake on my barrel but only 2 x 1/4" welds. A common method for permanently attaching muzzle brakes is silver soldering so that should be fine. Just take it easy and don't get the parts too hot. TIG is best for welding on the receiver, filling holes, back plate, etc.

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FYI...Look around and you will see that most folks place the front HK sight on the rear 1/3 of the FGB. I beleive it is placed there so that you are not welding on top of the gas plug's threads.

 

I would not MIG weld them. Personally, I would have a professional TIG welder do it. Or, someone that really knows what they're doing with a torch and silver solder.

 

With the value of your S12 now at $8-900, I would send it to a reputable smith, as not to Bubba it up.

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dam i was just going to say that. what about super glue or................duck tape haha.gif i would really silver solder to barrel ,if going to put on gas block it would be good time to check out gas ports, mark the position for sight remove gas block and weld it up. and wont have to worry about screwing up the barrel.

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TIG weld usually. I had a guy TIG a brake on my barrel but only 2 x 1/4" welds. A common method for permanently attaching muzzle brakes is silver soldering so that should be fine. Just take it easy and don't get the parts too hot. TIG is best for welding on the receiver, filling holes, back plate, etc.

 

If that was done to permanantly affix your brake for a legal OAL, that is not kosher per ATF. The weld would have to cover at least 1/2 the circumference of the brake. When the local Indiana ATF office approved RAA making welds like that on the 17" guns, that was not compliant with the previous ATF ruling on the issue.

 

Tony

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TIG weld usually. I had a guy TIG a brake on my barrel but only 2 x 1/4" welds. A common method for permanently attaching muzzle brakes is silver soldering so that should be fine. Just take it easy and don't get the parts too hot. TIG is best for welding on the receiver, filling holes, back plate, etc.

 

If that was done to permanantly affix your brake for a legal OAL, that is not is not kosher per ATF. The weld would have to cover at least 1/2 the circumference of the brake. When the local Indiana ATF office approved RAA making welds like that on the 17" guns, that was not compliant with the previous ATF ruling on the issue.

 

Tony

Good to know (I didn't know the exact requirements), but this was for my mid barrel experiment with the Monster Brake, barrel is still original 18".

 

Thanks.

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