SaigaSlinger 61 Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 http://youtu.be/NVtszs-NZog Didn't see that coming. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Doesn't surprise me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
killbox21 10 Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 WD40 Rules again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voltia 375 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 I would've used axle grease and called it a day. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Good to know it works so well for those items you may not want clogged with grease like a firearm in a humid environment. Wonder how it reacts with plastics. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
coronet 131 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 I can verify, that if you soak anything aluminum that is anodized in PB Blaster, it WILL eat off the finish and destroy it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battosaii 99 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 oh really? i must be careful then because PB blaster is my rust penetrant of choice for working with cars and i have a few anodized aluminum parts under my car lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Juggernaut 11,054 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Heads up, WD-40 has no LUBE in it.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 The WD stands for Water Displacement which it was originally invented to do, not lubricate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 That brings up a good question, did the sunlight break down the carbon chains in the CLP? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Hartley 526 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 I use Mobil 1 on my STI pistol and Tri-Flow on my Saiga 12s and ARs. Doug Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Lithium grease Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 My gunsmith uses WD to clean/soak a gun then blows it off with compressed air. It won't hurt any wood/plastic finishes. CLP or FP10 for lubrication. I like TriFlow for all sorts of stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DLT 1,646 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Mobil 1 in all my guns. The thinnest I've found here is 5-20. Works great on everything. I use it on all the moving parts and barrels. I use hoppes 9 to clean. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battosaii 99 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Mobil 1 in all my guns. The thinnest I've found here is 5-20. Works great on everything. I use it on all the moving parts and barrels. I use hoppes 9 to clean. the mobile 1 we use in Honda hybrid cars are 0-20w here at the dealer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voltia 375 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 I think it's important to note that one product does not do all. A solvent, while a cleaner, is neither lube, nor protectant. A grease, while a lube, is not a cleaner, and gets messy when used as a protectant. An oil, while a protectant, is not a cleaner, and does ok as a lube in most areas, but grease is usually better. I know all the above is obvious, but why do people think one product will excel at all, even WD-40, which is really none of the above? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LuPiN8oR 333 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Ok total rookie question here but what exactly does breakfree clp do? Is it a cleaner or a lube? Read thats whats supposed to be used in the saigas, before i came across that lil tidbit i was using hoppes to clean and rem oil to lube, and noticed one has to be quick w the hoppes as itll eat paint lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 CLP Clean Lube Protect Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LuPiN8oR 333 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Lol i knew what the acronym stood for but someone posted that no one product could clean and lube as well. I think it's important to note that one product does not do all. A solvent, while a cleaner, is neither lube, nor protectant. A grease, while a lube, is not a cleaner, and gets messy when used as a protectant. An oil, while a protectant, is not a cleaner, and does ok as a lube in most areas, but grease is usually better. I know all the above is obvious, but why do people think one product will excel at all, even WD-40, which is really none of the above? Was just curious to hear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Of course it can just perhaps not as well as a product made specifically to do either job. I am still thinking the sunlight exposure broke down the CLP based on what we saw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
storm6490 2,768 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Interesting experiment if you want to test how long a product will protect an exposed piece of metal. A blued or parkerized gun barrel would be a better test. CLP also makes a product for long term storage. It will kick the shit out of the WD product. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/821194/break-free-collector-long-term-gun-storage-preservative-gun-oil-4-oz-liquid CLP works best if you season your gear with it. Kinda like how bacon grease seasons a new cast iron pan, the clp will leave a nice coat of teflon on the weapon. Our issued rifles were so seasoned with clp that you could wipe them off with a rag or even hit them up with the scalding hot water of the diswashing station wand if nobody was looking. It takes time for the teflon to fill into the pores. The brake had no treatment to absorb the chemicals. It just sat on top. If you use CLP often, you will find that it works as good or better than most all of the products out there and you don't need several bottles of the stuff to keep your gear high speed and low drag. There are some products out there like frog lube that work immediately, but are not as practical for cleaning, lubricating and protecting all in one. Of course it can just perhaps not as well as a product made specifically to do either job. I am still thinking the sunlight exposure broke down the CLP based on what we saw. It had no blue or park to stick to. The teflon was floating or wiped off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Ah that makes sense, explains the beading he saw on the video. I know sunlight is hell on hydrocarbons wonder how things would have gone in the shade. Good post man. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaSlinger 61 Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 I use CLP in all my guns. This is some good information Im taking in here. Sounds like Ive been doing it right, I had no idea wd40 wasn't a lubricant, however if you watched the video, they aren't using regular wd40. I don't know the difference in them but Im gonna check it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voltia 375 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 I like a parkerized finish, it seems to hold oil well. I'll use Hoppe's 9 for cleaning, Tetra for lube, and FP10 for protectant and lube Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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