Want a Limited slip rear differential....

[SuRrEaLNJ 182]

a lsd is more streetable, if i romp the skinny pedal and the Aussie locks the ass end goes somewhere. on 35s it dosnt always come around, but when the Aussie locks up it goes somewhere. that being said if you know its back there theres no reason you cant drive it on the street once you learn that its different then an open

[Lone Eagle 839]

The previous owner of our '01 Durango 2WD SLT had an Eaton E-locker installed.  It's an open diff for normal driving, but locks at the touch of a button when the Mrs needs a little extra oomph to get rolling on the ice/snow/mud.  Once moving, she turns it back off and rolls on.  I tried it engaged on the mountain passes here, and it makes the SUV a bear to drive in the curves.  Think about it this way.  You have an open or LSD, the rear can compensate for the power differential in sharp curves.  If you have a locker, then equal power is going to both rear wheels.  This means in a sharp curve the inside wheel will want to run the same speed as the outside wheel, causing loss of traction even on dry roads.  The inside wheel requires less power to keep up with the outside wheel, which needs the extra power to keep the car moving forward.  There is a reason racers run LSD's in stock cars, and this is it.

[termite 463]

I can take my Dodge and really stomp it in first gear, and all the back tires will smoke on pavement, but only for about 5 feet, then I've redlined the tach, got to grab 2nd gear, and it's de-fueling. But on wet or "slippery" pavement, I can really tell that the LSD is working. I'd really think before putting in a locker, there has been times on real slippery or icy roads, that a locker will actually push you off the road. LS is actually that, one tire looses traction, the power is SUPPOSED to be transfered to the other one, but this is the real world, not an engineers drawing board

[Mullet Man 2,114]

The previous owner of our '01 Durango 2WD SLT had an Eaton E-locker installed.  It's an open diff for normal driving, but locks at the touch of a button when the Mrs needs a little extra oomph to get rolling on the ice/snow/mud.  Once moving, she turns it back off and rolls on.  I tried it engaged on the mountain passes here, and it makes the SUV a bear to drive in the curves.  Think about it this way.  You have an open or LSD, the rear can compensate for the power differential in sharp curves.  If you have a locker, then equal power is going to both rear wheels.  This means in a sharp curve the inside wheel will want to run the same speed as the outside wheel, causing loss of traction even on dry roads.  The inside wheel requires less power to keep up with the outside wheel, which needs the extra power to keep the car moving forward.  There is a reason racers run LSD's in stock cars, and this is it.

I agree, an e locker, air locker or manual locking hubs are best used sparingly and in the right conditions.

A lunchbox locker is designed to unlock like an LSD, just not quite as smoothly. Its a trade off for the greater engagement characteristics then an LSD provides at a significant price and installation difference.

 

Anything 2wd with a locker or LSD in the rear, can be sketchy on ice.

[Long Shot 1,287]

I second the motion on lockers., they are great for off road use if you want a truck that works like a solid axle four wheeler. If you what improved traction and control you need a LSD/posi track type system that allows the the differential to work as intended until you need both tires to hook up.

 

With a ratchet type locker it gives just enough to prevent excessive axle stress but will force tire slippage on ice, snow, and sometimes wet roads especially with an empty pick up truck. Ask your self why no vehicles come factory with a locker but lots come with LSD?

[netpackrat 566]

Cool...

 

SO... I want to be looking for a "LOCKER" unit that fits my specific rear/gear ratio/etc... for my truck, so that once installed... once I give it gas... BOTH rear wheels have drive power... not just one side or the other...

 

 

No, if you have to drive on snow and ice, an "automatic" locker like most of these guys are talking about is the absolute last thing you want.    Either get a plain limited slip diff, or a "manual" locker like an ARB, E-Locker, Ox Locker, or the Auburn Ected like I have in my Jeep.  But don't expect the locking feature to be of much use on the street, so you might as well either stick with your open diff or get the limited slip.  That's why the Ected is the best of both worlds for me; it's a limited slip for better traction in the winter, but I can flip the switch to lock up if I need to get through a nasty obstacle off road.  But with winter coming up and my off roading done for the season, I don't expect to engage the locker much, if at all, until next spring.

 

Honestly, if the "lunchbox" locker like the Powertrax that was mentioned is the only thing you can afford, you should save your money and skip it altogether, maybe buy some new studded tires and throw a few big bags of sand in the back.  Some of the Auto-lockers are less violent in operation than others, but they are all dangerous in winter conditions.  With an LSD, you will know it is there, but it's still controllable.

 

If you want a recommendation for the BEST option for winter driving regardless of cost, get a Detroit Truetrac LSD.  That's a fully gear-driven limited slip with NO clutch pre-load, that is still more effective than any clutch based LSD.  It doesn't require special diff lube additives like the clutch based units do, and you'll never have to replace worn out clutch packs.  I have one in the FRONT axle of my Jeep, and it is literally transparent to the driver until the rig is shifted into 4wd and hits a surface where it actually needs the extra traction.  I've had it in there for about 120,000 miles and it has never given me a lick of trouble.

[Big John! 2,062]

 

Cool...

 

SO... I want to be looking for a "LOCKER" unit that fits my specific rear/gear ratio/etc... for my truck, so that once installed... once I give it gas... BOTH rear wheels have drive power... not just one side or the other...

 

 

No, if you have to drive on snow and ice, an "automatic" locker like most of these guys are talking about is the absolute last thing you want.    Either get a plain limited slip diff, or a "manual" locker like an ARB, E-Locker, Ox Locker, or the Auburn Ected like I have in my Jeep.  But don't expect the locking feature to be of much use on the street, so you might as well either stick with your open diff or get the limited slip.  That's why the Ected is the best of both worlds for me; it's a limited slip for better traction in the winter, but I can flip the switch to lock up if I need to get through a nasty obstacle off road.  But with winter coming up and my off roading done for the season, I don't expect to engage the locker much, if at all, until next spring.

 

Honestly, if the "lunchbox" locker like the Powertrax that was mentioned is the only thing you can afford, you should save your money and skip it altogether, maybe buy some new studded tires and throw a few big bags of sand in the back.  Some of the Auto-lockers are less violent in operation than others, but they are all dangerous in winter conditions.  With an LSD, you will know it is there, but it's still controllable.

 

If you want a recommendation for the BEST option for winter driving regardless of cost, get a Detroit Truetrac LSD.  That's a fully gear-driven limited slip with NO clutch pre-load, that is still more effective than any clutch based LSD.  It doesn't require special diff lube additives like the clutch based units do, and you'll never have to replace worn out clutch packs.  I have one in the FRONT axle of my Jeep, and it is literally transparent to the driver until the rig is shifted into 4wd and hits a surface where it actually needs the extra traction.  I've had it in there for about 120,000 miles and it has never given me a lick of trouble.

 

I've got quite a bit of experience in all this locker hoo ha and I concur with the above 100%.

 

Some have mentioned junkyard LS diffs.  I would be weary of these unless fairly new.  Clutch packs can be worn out and you will have gone through all the work for nothing if you pick the wrong one.  Short of tearing the diff all the way apart, I don't know how you would truly test an LSD to see if it's good.  I like the tru-trac for the reasons mentioned above.  Gear driven, no friction modifier required, no worn out clutch packs.

[IndyArms 10,186]

Like I have been saying all along... I just want BOTH wheels to grab if I punch the gas...  BUT.. I want them to work properly when making sharp corners. I do not plan to offroad, or abuse them... Just street driving, maybe a cut cornfield now and then...  ( RARELY!!)

 

My little nissan would spin BOTH back tires in 2 high when I would give it to it...  and I loved the way it handled in all conditions... snow, ice, rain, mud, etc...

 

I just want the new truck to handle SIMILARLY...  and right NOW, I know that if pounce on the gas pedal only ONE wheel is going to spin....

 

I will certainly look into the Detroit Truetrac LSD, at mid 4 bills range, the price is nice... I dont wanna spend 7 or 8 if I can get away under 5!

 

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

^^All good advice above and I respect their opinions, but in 4x4, even on ice, the ass shouldn't be kicking out a ton with a "locker".. In 2wd, it's a death sentence. So... don't drive around in 2wd in low traction conditions! On dry pavement, my Powertrax is exactly like any LSD I've ever driven. It doesn't lock up solid like an ARB or E-Trac. That said, I'm also the guy running around with BFG Mud Terrain KM2s in my 4x4 Jeep in 4" of snow driving 30mph... I like to play it safe, no matter how good or bad my tools may be.

 

-----------

 

Big John/Net: So is that actually a Torsen diff then? Those are really cool!

 

-----------

 

Indy, as I read more, it sounds like what you really do want is a factory LSD. I wouldn't be afraid of buying a used LSD rear if it matched your front ratio as I've only ever met 1 LSD with burned out clutches. The labor and expense to rebuild the clutches, if needed, is minimal and simple (well... in all of them I've worked on, which isn't many to be honest) compared to setting up gears with a new carrier. That's actually why I was pushing for the Lunchbox style, WAAAAY less expensive when you include setting up the gears again. So, in my opinion, I'd revert to plan A and hit the junkyard or Craiglist for a complete axle in your ratio with LSD and swap the entire thing. I have to think you're a guy with some mechanical skill to have even asked this question, so installing some new oil seals, rebuilding brakes, the clutches, and the axle swap itself shouldn't be a big deal with modest tools and skills. The best part about this option is that your truck won't be down until you're ready to seal the deal. If it takes you a month to get all that done, so? Plus you won't be working under the truck all that long. Couple of brake lines, couple of U-bolts cut with the cutoff wheel, probably some stubborn fasteners, and back in business... If NE Indiana prices are normal in your part of the country as well, that shouldn't cost more than $500 if you do the labor and doesn't require a rocket science level of detail or precision (like setting up gears...)

 

In my opinion, the best thing you can do to start out with is studded snow tires. They're amazing and definitely the easiest to install!

 

edit: Also... Thanks for starting this topic even if you ignore all of the advice! I've found it to be very interesting and educational to hear about what other guys are doing!

Edited October 14, 2013 by Maxwelhse

[IndyArms 10,186]

I was really thinking a factory part myself from the beginning... but I figured if I was going to be swapping ANYTHING out... why not ask around and see if something BETTER was recommended... 

 

I am still as clueless as I was before! LOL it seems like theres WAY more options than I thought...  but for different scenarios and such...

 

I would prefer to NOT swap out the whole axle... just the guts in the rear pumpkin... as the body nd frame on this truck are like new... and chances are any junkyard around here with an '05 rear is going to be rusty... 

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

I would prefer to NOT swap out the whole axle... just the guts in the rear pumpkin... as the body nd frame on this truck are like new... and chances are any junkyard around here with an '05 rear is going to be rusty... 

 

Indy, based on this conversation, you really don't want to do that... Setting up gears requires a level of precision that you may not be prepared for. You will need a good dial indicator and good magnetic base for it, an accurate inch/pound torque wrench, an array of shims, and more patience than I generally have (and yes... I've setup gears before... that's why I know it sucks... I've also rebuilt motors which also requires a bunch of precision, I just don't find it as tedious).

 

I've pulled 15 year old rear ends out of the junk yard (in the rust belt) that didn't look too bad and were certainly nowhere near rusted "through". You're talking about something that is heavy walled tube and cast iron. If the looks offend you, hit it with a wire wheel and repaint it for a total investment of $30.

 

Unless you're confident that you're a skilled tradesman with precision instruments, and already have them available, and have the patience to do it right, don't attempt to set up gears. It's very important that its done right or it will make all sorts of noise and die in 20,000 miles.

 

So, if you're confident that you have the skills, tools, time, and patience to rebuild a motor, go ahead and jump into setting up gears. Like anything mechanical, I do find it to be fun, but it is a tedious endeavor if things don't go just "so".

 

For more of a hobbyist, I would definitely recommend a complete axle swap. It REALLY isn't hard and only require basic tools.

Edited October 15, 2013 by Maxwelhse

[Mullet Man 2,114]

^I agree with that. Next to a lunchbox, swapping the complete axle and re using your brakes, is the most economical route, especially knowing you can sell yours and recoup some of the money. Swapping an axle from the same model vehicle is a very easy and straight forward process. And like mentioned, an hour with a wire wheel and a can or two of paint, it will look new. 

 

And a lot of times if an LSD is acting up, it is as simple as a fluid change an some LSD additive that cures it.

[sccritterkiller 473]

Damn....ya'll need to move down south so you don't have to deal with all that snow and ice shit.....I have a 4WD but I only use the 4WD to drive on the beach...LOL

 

Good thread...learned a lot. thanks!

[Ronin38 2,117]

Now I know y'all got MUD down there! You've never had mud on your roof? 

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

Now I know y'all got MUD down there! You've never had mud on your roof? 

 

It's weirdo red mud... He probably thought he was on Mars...

[sccritterkiller 473]

Clay gets slick when its wet but its most flat...just keep your momentum and your good...It dries quick too...if its questionable I deploy the side by side....had to use the wench on it a few times...LOL

[G O B 3,516]

For quick,easy and CHEEP - go junkyard!

 

  A complete rear only takes a few wrenches and a pair of jack stands to change. A LOT easier to do than opening the rear. I have set up more than a few rears, and you can go wrong all too easy once you crack none open. A complete rear should swap out in a Saturday morning with a six pack. Installing an aftermarket locker can take a couple days if it's your first.

 For street use the factory limited slip will be a lot more satisfactory than any aftermarket unit, unless you step up to a toroidal set up and those are EXPEN$IVE!

[netpackrat 566]

Big John/Net: So is that actually a Torsen diff then? Those are really cool!

 

-----------

 

Indy, as I read more, it sounds like what you really do want is a factory LSD. I wouldn't be afraid of buying a used LSD rear if it matched your front ratio as I've only ever met 1 LSD with burned out clutches. The labor and expense to rebuild the clutches, if needed, is minimal and simple (well... in all of them I've worked on, which isn't many to be honest) compared to setting up gears with a new carrier

 

Yeah, Truetrac is more or less the same kind of clutchless LSD as a Torsen, as I understand it.

 

I would be leery of looking for a used factory (clutch type) LSD for a swap...  My factory LSD in the Jeep WAS getting worn, and in fact the shop that did the work found small pieces of the old diff when they cracked it open and drained the fluid.  Luckily the ring and pinion were not damaged, but I'm glad I got it done when I did.  I knew that the clutch packs were getting weak and I looked up the process of replacing them in the factory service manual.  Suffice it to say, the process was nearly as involved as changing to a new diff unit entirely, so I decided to bite the bullet and go with the upgraded "super 35" kit with much stronger, chrome moly axle shafts.  I'm glad that I did.  It cost me a lot of money, but I know a guy who spent almost as much rebuilding his just to stock config, after he broke one of the weak factory shafts.

I will certainly look into the Detroit Truetrac LSD, at mid 4 bills range, the price is nice... I dont wanna spend 7 or 8 if I can get away under 5!

 

 

I firmly believe this is one of those areas where it just costs what it costs, so you need to decide what is the BEST final configuration to end up with, and just pony up what it takes to get there.  If you do it right, at least you only have to get it once, and it's one of those things that will pay dividends for as long as you own the vehicle.  Especially the Truetrac, since there are no clutches to ever replace.

[netpackrat 566]

Unless you're confident that you're a skilled tradesman with precision instruments, and already have them available, and have the patience to do it right, don't attempt to set up gears. It's very important that its done right or it will make all sorts of noise and die in 20,000 miles.

 

So, if you're confident that you have the skills, tools, time, and patience to rebuild a motor, go ahead and jump into setting up gears. Like anything mechanical, I do find it to be fun, but it is a tedious endeavor if things don't go just "so".

 

Well...  I AM a skilled tradesman with precision instruments and patience available.  I've rebuilt engines, I have a pair of dual SU carbs (known for being tricky to work with) from my MG currently apart on my bench, and I'm preparing to tear into the transmission before long.  I work on 737s for a living.  And I take my axle setup work to a specialist.  This is one of those jobs, where unless you are the guy who does it every day, you are probably better off taking it to that guy.

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

 

Big John/Net: So is that actually a Torsen diff then? Those are really cool!

 

-----------

 

Indy, as I read more, it sounds like what you really do want is a factory LSD. I wouldn't be afraid of buying a used LSD rear if it matched your front ratio as I've only ever met 1 LSD with burned out clutches. The labor and expense to rebuild the clutches, if needed, is minimal and simple (well... in all of them I've worked on, which isn't many to be honest) compared to setting up gears with a new carrier

 

Yeah, Truetrac is more or less the same kind of clutchless LSD as a Torsen, as I understand it.

 

I would be leery of looking for a used factory (clutch type) LSD for a swap...  My factory LSD in the Jeep WAS getting worn, and in fact the shop that did the work found small pieces of the old diff when they cracked it open and drained the fluid.  Luckily the ring and pinion were not damaged, but I'm glad I got it done when I did.  I knew that the clutch packs were getting weak and I looked up the process of replacing them in the factory service manual.  Suffice it to say, the process was nearly as involved as changing to a new diff unit entirely, so I decided to bite the bullet and go with the upgraded "super 35" kit with much stronger, chrome moly axle shafts.  I'm glad that I did.  It cost me a lot of money, but I know a guy who spent almost as much rebuilding his just to stock config, after he broke one of the weak factory shafts.

 

Every junkyard I've ever done business with has AT LEAST a 7 day warranty on mechanical parts, and most are cooler than that if it's clear you're not trying to hose them. I'd have the yard pull the housing cover (in my presence) and look for any signs of metal in the oil. If so, move on to the next junkyard rear end.

The only LSD I've ever put clutches in is a Ford 8.8", and it's pretty painless (and cheap... $120 for an upgrade). Not sure about the D35 setup...?

 

 

Well...  I AM a skilled tradesman with precision instruments and patience available.  I've rebuilt engines, I have a pair of dual SU carbs (known for being tricky to work with) from my MG currently apart on my bench, and I'm preparing to tear into the transmission before long.  I work on 737s for a living.  And I take my axle setup work to a specialist.  This is one of those jobs, where unless you are the guy who does it every day, you are probably better off taking it to that guy.

 

 

I don't wrench every day, but consider myself a skilled hobbyest and have all of those tools available as well (I've re-geared about 3 times and my Dad has done hundreds). That said, I also agree with you! I have a $25 donor 8.8 behind my shed waiting to go down to Moser (not just for a re-gear though, but if you bring them a bare axle housing the price is dirt cheap, like $125 labor).

 

Soo... More over-abundance of food for though, Indy. If you want to do your own labor, and don't want to learn about setting gears up, axle swap is the way to go. If you want something that requires gear setup, find a pro and find out about a price. Around here, it's usually about $250-$350 to do it in vehicle + parts (about $100 for a setup kit + your carrier price + anything else they may find wrong).

 

edit: If you go the carrier swap route, now is the time to choose a different axle ratio if you want. Won't cost anything more than the price of the gears to change it out (and it also matters what ratio you want to run in regard to what carrier you should buy). Of course, if you have a 4x4 you're going to need the front done too, but no new carrier up there.

Edited October 17, 2013 by Maxwelhse

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

So... It's been about a week... Which way are you thinking of going? I'd love to hear about the results of any path you choose!

[IndyArms 10,186]

I would certainly have a qualified mechanic doing the work. I also think I will wait till spring, and see how the truck behaves over the winter as is, and then go from there. i do  notice it usually has a "shudder" in the rear when I take off turning one way or another ( turning at an intersection) if I get on it too much. Easing into it, it doesnt do this... thoughts? rear wheel just overpowered and slipping a little between rubber and pavement??

 

[mancat 2,368]

It seems like most of the Mopar factory LS are notorious for wearing out clutch packs early. I would not have a factory unit installed, nor would I pick a junkyard LS unless I planned on rebuilding it and using stronger springs in the pack to reduce slip. Too much slip is what wears out LSDs, but many factory LS packs are set up on the loose side, so that they give similar driving characteristics to an open diff.

 

A tight LSD will give great traction in all conditions but can still occasionally "bark" the tires on tight corners. I have the LS in my beater Explorer's 8.8 rebuilt with stiffer springs, and it occasionally will grab sort of like a locker when I gas it hard on corners, but it drives great in shitty weather and off-road without ever needing 4WD.

 

I would agree with others that have suggested the Detroit TrueTrac.. IF you're going to add an aftermarket LS, it's really the best option out there, but is definitely a few hundred bucks more than a conventional clutch unit.

 

If you decide to do it yourself, there may not be THAT much work involved. When shopping for your LS, make sure there is not a carrier split - that is, some gear ratios will use a different carrier than others. If your current gear ratio is the same as the carrier that the LS unit is specified to replace, you can probably get away with simply removing the carrier and ring gear, transporting the ring gear to the LS, and reinstalling.

 

You would just need to check the backlash and contact pattern, adjust as necessary by shimming carrier, and you should be good to go once you get a good contact pattern and backlash. You shouldn't have to mess with the pinion, which is usually where the annoying part of gear setup is - e.g. setting up pinion depth with setup bearings and setting the correct preload. The pinion depth SHOULD be unchanged when you simply swap the carrier.

 

I am NOT a gear expert but I have rebuilt several axles and LS packs.. That's just my 2 cents.

Edited October 25, 2013 by mancat

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

I would certainly have a qualified mechanic doing the work. I also think I will wait till spring, and see how the truck behaves over the winter as is, and then go from there. i do  notice it usually has a "shudder" in the rear when I take off turning one way or another ( turning at an intersection) if I get on it too much. Easing into it, it doesnt do this... thoughts? rear wheel just overpowered and slipping a little between rubber and pavement??

 

 

I'll lobby again for good snow tires since you're holding off anyhow. The crappy part is that the tire factories only make "so many" snow tires a year and generally if you wait until you need them, you can't buy them anymore.

 

Is that on dry pavement when its doing?

 

I had another thought too, considering the comments about Mopar LSD durability. Are you sure your truck doesn't have an LSD already and it might be malfunctioning?

 

You would just need to check the backlash and contact pattern, adjust as necessary by shimming carrier, and you should be good to go once you get a good contact pattern and backlash. You shouldn't have to mess with the pinion, which is usually where the annoying part of gear setup is - e.g. setting up pinion depth with setup bearings and setting the correct preload. The pinion depth SHOULD be unchanged when you simply swap the carrier.

 

I am NOT a gear expert but I have rebuilt several axles and LS packs.. That's just my 2 cents.

 

That's the rub... You won't know until you get there. I agree that shimming the carrier side to side isn't a big deal, but if you do have to set the pinion up you're into a big world of pain in the ass, especially if you're dealing with crush sleeves. I think on the next one I do I'm going to try solid pre-load shims instead of crush sleeves.

 

My other thought is that if I'm taking one down that far I'm going to be replacing the pinion seal since they ALWAYS seem to fail on me (3x in 3 different vehicles), which makes it an automatic pinion setup (for me anyhow since any of them I've ever done without setting up the pinion again whine afterward, no matter how delicate I am when torquing the pinion nut and setting the pre-load).

[netpackrat 566]

I'll lobby again for good snow tires since you're holding off anyhow. The crappy part is that the tire factories only make "so many" snow tires a year and generally if you wait until you need them, you can't buy them anymore.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^ This.  Also, throw a couple hundred pounds worth of sandbags in the back.

[IndyArms 10,186]

 

I had another thought too, considering the comments about Mopar LSD durability. Are you sure your truck doesn't have an LSD already and it might be malfunctioning?

And HOW would I know this??

 

  I cant seem to get my VIN to come up properly anywhere... ALL the dodge vin sites I have tried ( and I have tried about a dozen) either dont work, dont give me any more info than I already know... or tell me I have some strange car from the 70's....

 

So do I take it to the dealership and have them figure out exactly what parts my truck has per its VIN?

[Mullet Man 2,114]

Jack the rear up, spin one tire. If the opposite tire spins backwards, you have an open differential. If it spins forward, you have a posi (lsd).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0DeTzQWNBQ

Edited October 27, 2013 by Mullet Man

[Ronin38 2,117]

OR- get the back end on some gravel or sand and mash the gas (in 2WD). Two good ruts = LSD. 

[IndyArms 10,186]

I am pretty sure I get ONE GOOD RUT... Which is why this topic started out at the get go! LOL

 

My latest question was how do I know if a LSD is bad... THATS the ??

 

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

 

I'll lobby again for good snow tires since you're holding off anyhow. The crappy part is that the tire factories only make "so many" snow tires a year and generally if you wait until you need them, you can't buy them anymore.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^ This.  Also, throw a couple hundred pounds worth of sandbags in the back.

 

 

I disagree with the second part... No need for extra weight and I can pick one rear tire of an S10 about 1" off the ground (meaning it's a light ass truck, not that I'm a beast, which, well... maybe just a little).

 

Studded snow tires! You'll be amazed at the difference.

 

 

 

 

I had another thought too, considering the comments about Mopar LSD durability. Are you sure your truck doesn't have an LSD already and it might be malfunctioning?

And HOW would I know this??

 

  I cant seem to get my VIN to come up properly anywhere... ALL the dodge vin sites I have tried ( and I have tried about a dozen) either dont work, dont give me any more info than I already know... or tell me I have some strange car from the 70's....

 

So do I take it to the dealership and have them figure out exactly what parts my truck has per its VIN?

 

 

Pulling the cover and looking for yourself is really the best option (who really knows what happened after it left the factory?). If you just see 4 side gears, then it's an open rear end.

 

The dealership is the second best option.

 

Option 3, my AMC buddies (which pretty much automatically became Mopar guys during the merger in the '80s) can probably help you out as many of them now work at Chrysler dealers. I had a g/f that wanted a PT Cruiser (ugh... I couldn't talk her out of it) and I fed a buddy the VIN. He came back with the original sale date, original owner (with address and phone number... in fact, that is how I contacted them to buy the car. It was an ebay expired auction), full service records (it was purchased new with a dealer service plan so I saw the date and mileage of EVERY fluid change), build sheet, and all recalls performed. ANY dealer should be able to pull that for you, but they probably won't give out the sensitive info.

 

If you have some dickish dealers (ran into a Chevy dealer that couldn't decode my paint code from the VIN... I told him to try harder... "eureka!", he figure it out), PM me your VIN and I'll see what I can do! No promises though, I have no idea who works at a dealer anymore and who doesn't.