jdtravers

The extra length over an 18" gun is minimal. You have more dwell time to run lighter loads, maybe the balance if you like it. But contrary to what some of you believe, the extra length DOES NOT promote more velocity or accuracy, unless you have a front bead sight at the end of the barrel. This is why duck, geese guns have longer barrels, is for more sight radius and that is the only reason. Shotgun powder is the same as pistol powder and has a very fast burn rate. You have reached maximum burn/velocity at about 8 inches with the majority of the powders out there on the market. Same

8 or 10 round and 20 round. This covers pretty much all needs from the basic home defense/recreational shooter to the competition arena. Get any shorter than 10 rounds and I would think the magazine would be a little bit harder to control as it is so much shorter. Good job!!!!!!! Jack

Which model Glock are you shooting? This would help in determining just how bad your shooting really is:) You are definitely trying to shoot faster than you can see. Accept the fact that you need to start out slow, call every shot, develop your eye speed and work on recoil management. Your pretty much just wasting ammunition if you don't have a goal and work on the fundamentals of pistol marksmanship. Stance, grip, breathing, sight alignment, trigger control and follow through. No matter how fast you learn how to shoot, the fundamentals are always in play!! It is your founda

"Perfect" Practice makes Perfect, otherwise it is just trigger finger exercise. That is what my Team Sergeant/Pistol Coach drilled into me many years ago when we worked out at Mott Lake Compound, Fort Bragg as the primary pistol instructors. Like Jim said, go shoot a USPSA match and you will see how your peers are doing, and you will be able to judge yourself. Jack

Looks Good!!! Jack

I don't think I have seen anyone explain why the Mil Spec Chamber has more Leade in it: The primary reason is because of carbon, copper build up that would be common to a rifle that does not get cleaned often. This can cause problems on two fronts: a dirty chamber at the leade/throat will not allow the shell to go all the way into battery (Battle Rifle). And, not often, but when clearing a dirty/hot rifle the bullet can be pulled from the case because the leade of the chamber is dirty. So, the fix is to cut a little bit more leade in the chamber. We do the same thing in our

No it will not! You will wear the barrel rifling out before you ever have to worry about throat erosion. Getting too wrapped up in the 5.56 vs .223 bull shit! It is no different than shooting .308 Winchester and M118s. Same difference: Mil Spec brass has thicker walls and a few thousands more leade in the chamber. It ain't that big of deal!!! What would matter is if you have an extremely TIGHT match chamber that likes to use its own fire formed brass and this is standard practice with match rifles. The problem is the trash ammunition that so many people try and save a few bu

Not 100% sure what he is asking, but if you shorten the gas block to where there is no op rod, only the blunt end of the carrier, you need a shim inside the dust cover to retain the carrier or it will ride up and lock on the rear sight boss/block when you cycle the shotgun. The shim keeps the carrier centered since there is no longer an op rod to keep it centered in the sight mount boss/tube. If I explained that worth a shit!! To answer the question, we generally use a 1/3 section of a Saiga barrel welded inside/top of the dust cover. Jack

I really didn't want to rain on anyone's parade, but all you have to do is replace the recoil spring with a heavier spring if you feel your shotgun has too much gas. I worked on a Vepr today, that barely would cycle Federal Bulk Pack. They are all a little different. Just because the shotgun came with "X" springs, does not mean they are consistent with the type shot shells people put through them. It doesn't matter if it is a delayed blow-back pistol (1911) or a shotgun, they all can benefit from installing the proper springs for the shells being fired through the system. It i

That is the preferred method of increasing the engagement of the hammer. Jack

I am out of shirts with the logos on them. Heard Greg at CSS was going to come out with a Banana Hammock with Saiga embroidered on it:) Here is the old logo:

Take a pic of just the disconnect. I believe you can relieve some of the metal on the bottom front edge of the disconnect, which will allow it to rotate further and create a safer engagement of the hammer. Jack

Great area!!! I was born in Pensacola and grew up in Fort Walton Beach/Destin area doing a bunch of night fishing for sharks off the original Ft. Walton Beach, wooden pier, 60s thru early 70s. Chamber of Commerce passed an ordnance banning us from shark fishing. Tourist didn't like to come out and see a 10-12 foot Hammerhead laid up on the beach in the morning. Of course there were no tag and release programs back then. Hell , if it moved we killed it. Funny how we change as we get older and appreciate the value/life of all species! You guys do a lot of surf fishing and that

I am still on the forum as a member and will answer any questions you may have. All my parts are still carried through CSS and Greg will announce any new parts as they come out. It is just the Saiga Industry is pretty much dead, I don't care to delve over into the Vepr as it doesn't lend itself to what I like to build. Also, I am not cheap, but I don't see the sense in paying a man $100.00 a month for nothing. I really never got any business from the forum to start with as a business member. This forum is a DIY forum and I always felt that I better served the forum lending my kno

When I go to the link, I see some old guy shooting a shotgun:) Pretty good shooting too!! Jack

It ain't that bad. Basic metal work 101. Jack

Clean up the inside of the barrel and the next time you weld the barrel use a backer!!!! Machine a bronze plug which will slip fit inside the barrel. Jack

Last 3 numbers of the serial number.

I would have to trade you my lathe, and that really wouldn't be much of a fair trade:) No, but let me check. Jack

No, this was from a .308 Had four of them and that was the last one. Yeah, you are right about the new 20's. I forgot about that. Ben, I was going to make some calls tomorrow. Just kinda late at night, but I could fuck with Tony:) Jack

If anyone has the original Saiga handguard for either the .308 or 20 Gauge shotgun I will definitely take it off your hands. PM me the cost, if reasonable I will PayPal the selling price and cover the shipping. Please send me a pic also, just so I know there is no confusion as to what I am looking for. Need ASAP. Thanks much, Jack Travers JT Engineering 337 353-3534 This is the one I need:

No, that is similar to the green thread locker used on sight mount bases. It never really hardens to a solid, but will still come apart easily without damaging the screws. Good stuff!! Gotta be careful with the red thread lockers, some are medium strength and some take a torch to heat up and remove and will damage the finish. Stick with blue on aluminum and small screws that you don't want to damage. Just clean both surfaces. All about the preparation. Jack

I specifically ordered the new lathe with a foot brake for many reasons! Jack

Oh yeah, you know he tried to fight it when his shirt, apron, or sleeve got caught in the machine! You can still see the hair on his head and it is too short to get caught up in the work or spindle. Jack PS: My new lathe will be here on Wednesday:)

I have oversize/longer pistons manufactured for that purpose. Jack Use your original Op Rod if it is not damaged. Jack