TonyRumore

Just give me a call at the Tromix shop at 918 251-5640. I can take a credit card.

The tube without the pleats is only required when doing the short barrel conversions. It is required to allow the bolt carrier shaft to pass through it whereas in the standard system only the skinnier carrier extension passes through it. The short carrrier extension that I make is again, only required for the short barrel conversions.

These are the flash hiders used on all the Tromix conversions. They can be bonded on using red loctite. Thorough testing has proven that they DO NOT come off, trust me. I can also thread them 7/8x28 if you really want to go that route. http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=310138 $39ea shipped. I have them in stock. Tony Rumore Tromix Corp

I am running off a large batch of 12" Saiga 12 conversions and a few 18's so once I have the tooling set up, I am running off some extra parts. These are the trigger guards used on all Tromix Saiga conversions and can either be welded in place or riveted. $7ea plus $3 freight. By the time you buy a sheet of .060" sheet, cut it into strips and attempt to bend it up without a jig, you'll realize that seven bucks is a deal that will save the headache of screwing with it. I'll have flash hiders, bayo lugs, bolt carrier extensions and non-pleated gas tubes shortly. http://www.hunt1

I made up a handfull of these hand held cutting tools that allow you to square up the muzzle of your shotgun barrel after it is cut off. It eliminates the need to use a lathe or tedius hand filing that never comes out square. Simply whack off your barrel with a hacksaw and spin this piloted cutter in a hand drill and insert it in the muzzle. It will square it up in just a few seconds. Perfect for those hand jobs. $29ea plus $3 for freight. Tony Rumore Tromix Corp

Your gunsmith first needs to realize that if he can't get the follower to run all the way down into the extension, it is not going to work. I already tried it using .020" sheet stock, and that extra .040" protruding into the interior of the existing mag ID will not allow the stock follower to get past it. Since the entire spring compresses inside of the existing follower legs, you cannot get any more rounds in the mag with the extension in place because the legs stop at the same position regardless whether the spring is down inside the extension. Even if you were to narrow the follower,

I already built one. The problem is that the follower is too wide to fit down inside the extension. The follower will need to be changed as well, in order to get it to work.

It would probably look a little bit better if you recut the back of the receiver so it was perpendicular to the bore. That way the stock wouldn't be going upward at an angle compared to the bore line.

The integral barrel porting is probably the most effective and that is why you see it on the name-brand shotguns......but, an alternative would be to make a barrel extension tube that had the same ID as the bore and then port it instead. That would probably be the best viable option and it probably wouldn't look too bad either. Tony Rumore

Technically, I don't believe any external type shotgun brake is going to do much to cut recoil. You only have 10,000psi to work with, not like 55,000+ in a rifle, and you have a sewer pipe size bore. You could try and overcome the bore size by making the brake very long in order to allow the gas to expand substantially before it hit the restrictive exit pupil, but that would only work with slugs, since the shot will spread and hit the brake. I tested a pile of brakes in the low pressure, big bore AR-15's and none were very effective. The small bore, high pressure, large capacity rounds

I have one on a custom .458 SOCOM AK and it works perfectly, but I have never tried one on a Saiga.

I seriously doubt those shorties where the barrel is just hacked off, will run on anything but 3" mags and I expect the gas port is probably 3/8" in diameter as well. That's just sloppy work in my opinion. The correct way to do it, is to move the entire gas system rearward to maintain some sort of dwell time past the gas port. My guns will run on any 2.75" low base target shell and the gas port is still rather small. The gas regulator has been modified similar to an RPD machine gun, so the guns will run magnum shells on the other gas setting. This entails manufacturing a new gas tub

For those that bought the dozen 12" barreled Tromix guns, they will be delivered as promised as soon as the Form 3's clear the ATF, so don't freak out. I am still here, just finishing up the last remaining orders. I've made some wild stuff over the years but it's time to move on. I'm burned out.................... Tony Rumore Tromix Corp

I am not taking on any new orders for the moment. Once I get backed up with 3 months or so of work, I just stop taking orders. It does no one any good to have their gun held up for months at a time in my shop. It also stresses me out, and after ending up in the hospital last year with blood pressure at 240/150, I certainly don't need that. I do however, appreciate all your support, and will let you all know when I am accepting more work. But for now, you're better off having someone else take care of your Saiga needs. Tony Rumore Tromix Corp

The most expensive, per-round magazine is probably for the Pederson Device. The device with one magazine will bring around $30,000 at auction, but there are some out there without magazines which will not fetch anywhere near that amount. So, one of these magazines should bring several thousand dollars and they only hold 30 rounds. That's at least $100 per round. The other one that comes to mind is a 97 round Lewis drum in 30'06. Those will bring about $1,500 in nice condition. Thats $15.50 per round.

The disconnector needs to come out in order to get the safety out. Just pull the shepherds hook out and knock out the trigger/disconnector pin. Then pull out the disconector and rotate the safety up and out. Once you have the safety out, you might as well modify it so you never need to remove the disconector to remove and install it again, ala Galil style. Machine/grind/file a notch out of the safety where it strikes the disconector. This will leave the right side foot to still block the trigger so the safety still works. All Tromix conversions have this mod completed.

I just called SOG and the lady there didn't even know what a SAS-12 shotgun was, let alone if they had any magazines. WTF? Who did you talk to at SOG to order SAS-12 mags?

I just used a cut down ejector spring from an AR-15. I had to drill out the spring bore in the SAS-12 a hair, but no big deal. I opened the ports a bit and the thing runs all shells just fine. I'll try and get some extra mags and weld a couple together. It shouldn't be a big deal. Tony Rumore Tromix Corp

I can sell you a Tromix HK style trigger guard if you like.

Here's another pic.

Come on man, don't call me out on that one................ When people only own a few firearms, like under 30 or so, they have never really tried a large selection, so what ever they own is the "best" in their mind. You never want to tell a guy their gun is a POS, that's just not cool....it's like telling your woman that those pants make her look fat. The Saiga has some great features, but there are a lot of things about it that don't rival a nice production piece like a 70's Pasedena AutoMag. I enjoy all guns, "junkers" or not, but I do have a problem with those individuals that

OK, Bvamp, maybe I overestimated the group here, but of course you would always rough up the surface of the metal when using a bonding agent of any type. I know everyone thinks the Saiga is some sort of god like weapon, but the truth is the finish is very similar to Bar-B-Que paint, albeit poorly applied. I can't tell you guys enough times, when you have a slip fit of steel parts together, with red lock tite in between, that MF'er will never come apart, trust me.

A small TiG type spot weld is not going to hurt anything on the barrel, but if you were to weld a big bead all the way around the barrel, you would end up with a "choke" or tight spot right there. When the metal cools it shrinks and will pull the tube together at that point. If you were to lay a bead half-way around the barrel, then when it cooled it would warp the barrel toward the welded side. It is possible to straighten a warped barrel, by heating the opposite side and then quenching it to help shrink the off-side and pull the barrel over straight again. This my friends, is an art,

As of this minute, there are still 2ea left for sale. Yes, you have to open up the hoop on the bayonet itself to get it to fit over the Saiga barrel, but you only need to take off about .003" and it will go right on. Just a few quick spins around the hoop with a dremel wheel or you could hand file it with a rat tail in about 2 minutes. The Tromix bayo lugs are the same type and dimensions as the original Colt units, so the fit of the knife on the lug is the same. It is a little loose, but that is the way the factory Colt M16 bayo's fit. If you leave the hoop on the bayonet a bit small,

The Tromix short barreled SAIGA's run fine with super light 1oz target loads as well as 3" magnums, and they do not have chokes.