shades_of_grey

Why? If you just follow the basic instructions from the damn manual that I posted above, you can use a Tapco G2 and have no difficulty reinstalling the bolt carrier. Because, 1) I do my own work and the hammer requires the most re-profiling just to fit (ie; clearing the cross-brace and the BHO) only to yeild no noticable improvement over the factory hammer already in place. 2) Re-installing the bolt carrier isn't an issue. Don't you agree? 3) I have the same damn manual. Manuals are for Newbs. 1. True, but replacing the hammer with a US-made one gives you one more easy co

For what they're charging for this thing, I'd rather have a steel drum, (proven reliability and durability). ymmv.

Nothing really wrong with the VLTORs, but I too recommend you get one from Bonesteel Arms. Theirs uses an excellent Galil type folding mech, but you can leave your tang intact and unlike the other adapters that give you that option, the Bonesteel unit is effectively designed around the tang so it adds less length and looks very "at home" on the rifle. ymmv.

Why? If you just follow the basic instructions from the damn manual that I posted above, you can use a Tapco G2 and have no difficulty reinstalling the bolt carrier.

"already have one" That's funny. I've got 5, (which is nothing compared to many guys' collections), in 3 calibers, and there are several more on my short list. To each his own, though. Of the ones you have listed, I'd probably go with the Mk III.

If you'd consider a rifle, a 2nd group buy for Allied Armament Polish AKMS underfolders, (nos Polish kit with original chrome lined barrel, built on a Nodak receiver), is forming on akfiles. They're $600 + shipping, and a hell of a lot of rifle for that price in today's market. Just somethin to think about. None of those handguns are really getting any more rare, but original barrelled kits are, especially Polish ones.

Didn't any of you guys RTFM?! From page 16: "3.4 CARBINE RE-ASSEMBLY Re-assembly of the carbine is the reverse of disassembly. WARNING: WHEN INSERTING THE BOLT SUPPORT WITH THE BOLT INTO THE RECEIVER IT IS NECESSARY TO MATCH THE BOLT PROTRUSIONS WITH THE RECEIVER SLOTS. SINK THE HAMMER FLUSH, PRESS THE BOLT LEFT-HAND PROTRUSION WITH A FINGER AND MOVE THE BOLT SUPPORT FORWARDS." The translation is terrible, like the rest of the manual, but that does work and it's relatively easy. I think modding the rails or the bolt in any way is unwise and potentially unsafe

^ You'll need a thicker skin if you're gonna last on this forum. It's natural to want pics when someone's posting about their new rifle. Stock photos just ain't the same. Thanks for the data, though. When you have time, some pics of groups would be nice too, so we can compare em to Saiga .308s.

You could definitely cut the barrel and still benefit from the heavy receiver, barrel, etc. If I find another for cheap I may grab it, cut the barrel to 14.5"+ pinned flash hider and trim a few inches off the stock...probably way to much time and money though. The beefier receiver, barrel, bolt probably grant a little more accuracy over similar standard saigas, so maybe the longer barrel isn't a complete waste. I'm hoping we see more advanced cartidges as time goes by though. Something that opens like the wold softpoints, but with enough juice to go farther. That would turn this into a

I do have that CAA adapter to turn my under folder into a fixed stock if I feel like it. Nice option. So that rifle has a railed handguard, a AFG, a regular FVG as well, and a bipod.. wow. Don't shoot that one much offhand, do ya? Ya ought to weigh it, I'm curious if it's under 15 lbs.

It's got a barrel about as long as my S-308, but only fires 7.62x39...

Just the artificial rarity, really.. which is the same reason that some gouging asswipes are currently asking ~$3500 for milled Polytech Legends, when they're objectively inferior to Bulgarian milled SA M-7 rifles, especially the Classics.

Unless they were wearing something like Dragon Skin, I'd say regular ol lead-core rounds would still take care of em.

Sounds like old ammo... probably dangerous to keep around. I'll do ya a favor and take it off your hands for cheap. You're welcome.

I'm really torn between one of these and the "Polish" AKMS rifles that Wade's is selling, (unissued Polish kit including original barrel built on a NoDak), for ~$600. Unfortunately, I can't afford both.

Easier said then done! That's true, but if you're anywhere near a border with a freer state, it's worth the effort, imo. I'd leave NY to avoid the confiscatory tax rates alone, never mind the shitty gun laws. If there's really no way out for ya, ya have my sympathy and I hope the K-pup is legal for you there, (sounds like it is).

I might try this on a spare rear sight leaf that I pick up cheap.. but I can't bear to file the ones that came with my rifles. I'm sure it will allow for faster target acquisition, but in a way, I'd rather train until I can use the standard notch n' post that much more quickly. I'm a big believer in learning to better use standard irons and other AK parts, (e.g. the safety lever), rather than modding them to suit you. I do find that the 47-type slanted stocks allow for faster and more natural target acquisition, (as well as a better cheek-weld), than the later design used on the AKM a

VaiFan, you ought to post in the rest of the forum more. All I've seen from ya in quite some time is this AR thread. They look decent, though. If I were you, I'd sell em and use the $ to fund some more interesting rifles.

Just move the fuck out of NY.. problems solved.

I agree, I think that the 12 gauge is a horrible choice for shooting past 50 yards BUT, it IS possible to hit consistantly at over 100 yards. It's also great to know your limitations so I see no problem with what the OP is asking... I'm sure WJ has it figured out by now, (I don't think he's been active on the forum at all for quite some time). This thread is ~1 1/2 yrs old.

Well, if I did have her blued, the bolt carrier polished, and left the blonde furniture on, she'd still be proper early Bulgarian, even with the barrel pinned rather than screwed into the receiver, (as the Russians did their type 3s). then do it, the bolt is also really easy to polish yourself, depending on how it's finished, i do it on a lot of my AKs, i usually start with coarse sand paper, then keep moving up to like 1000 grit, then maybe use a dremil emery wheel to remove any light machining marks, then start with buffing compound on a dremil wheel and finish it off by hand with mot

Well, if I did have her blued, the bolt carrier polished, and left the blonde furniture on, she'd still be proper early Bulgarian, even with the barrel pinned rather than screwed into the receiver, (as the Russians did their type 3s).

Good to know. I think this lack of material is causing some of my problems from this other thread. (creates the "gap" between the rail and the GB) That sounds likely. S-12s have enough recoil that if your handguard doesn't fit pretty damned securely, it will shift under recoil. I had this issue with an early Kross tri-rail. There was just nothing that could keep that securely in place on my gun, not with that early design. I will mention that Kross helped me try to get it working properly throughout, and ultimately gave me a full refund when it couldn't be done. Anyway, good