negev5021

Well, replacing the puck with the factory puck got me zero failures to eject for the first time ever. I honestly believe that the groves in the gogun puck require just a hair more gas to actually fill the cavity, and it appears that is all I needed.... but I must say, when shooting those 50 round with no FTE, I must have been getting juuusst enough gas, because what happened for the first time, is the bolt did not come FORWARD after ejection, and got hung up with a failure to feed, however the round was in straight just waiting for the bolt to drop. My hypothisis, once again with absol

Update: 100% function at match today..Woohoo! Finally got to utilize the full potential of mag fed shotgun! Our multigun matches do not seperate limited and open, just assisted sighting and iron sights, so it is a HUGE advantage to hold 13 rounds and reload so fast. The old 'nelli is gonna be pretty lonely stayin home from now on! Thanks again for everyones help, on this thread and my others....this site is an excellent resource and i would have given up long ago without it.

I have the twister standard: http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-309/Saiga-E-dsh-tac-Gas-Piston/Detail Good to hear my theory is not all that off kilter. I went ahead and checked out the profile on the Tromix FCG, and there is (was) quite a bit of room to dremel and still get full function, so I did, front and rear, and it appears to help hand cycling a little. I thought the Tromix was designed to not have to do that, so once it was in I figured all was well, because the tapco one was way high, and I ground the hell out of it before I replaced it. Thanks t

I actually started with the tapco FCG, and thought that the profile was too high, thus slowing the bolt. I therefore replaced with the Tromix FCG, as I understood it was the correct size. I will check that again. I did replace the gogun puck with the factory puck and went to test, and fired for the first time ever 50 consecutive rounds without FTE. My logic (with absolutely no scientific support) is the gogun puck, with the groves in it, allowed more gas to fill the space prior to cycle, while the factory puck does not allow more gas in since there are no groves. I am certain this i

Negative. I am shooting low brass on setting 3 w/gunfxr plug. My assumption is high brass would require a tone down to setting #2.

All holes are clear with no obstruction, proper angle, ect. I am concerned about going 1 size larger for 2 reasons: First, I think it will run into the adjacent hole and fubar the whole thing, and second, I am getting 1 FTE per 50 rounds, with the rest running well. Like I said thats pretty good, but really, to expect a gun to jam once every 50 rounds is pretty sketchy. I don't feel comfortable using at a match with those odds. I already have a bad habit of checking ejection every round that I am trying to break, so thinking at least 1 round per stage will jam just sucks. I need just a breath

I thought I had overcome undergassing, and have posted a few time thinking I was good to go... but here we go again. I have a restored s12, lightweight hammer spring, gogun puck, gunfixer plug, Tromix FCG/DIY triggerguard. I have broken in w/200+ high brass heavy loads, polished everything, have 3 holes which I have enlarged twice (now at 7/64) and STILL do not get 100% ejection rates (Federal bulk pack). Don't get me wrong 1 out of 50 is way, way better than before, but not good enough in my opinion to consider this gun race ready. I have had it choke up big time in last 2 multi gun matches,

I have the same problem. Load 12. The 13th round is not supposed to be there... Edit: sorry, its EVERY round? Thought it was overloaded mag. Mine would FTE when I had 1 in the chamber and reloaded a 12 rounder with 13 rounds in it, then fired, and there was too much upward pressure, or perhaps abosolutly no downward room, and the bolt hung up on the 1st round from the full mag.

I think that when you see how fast magwell reloads are you will never use a drum again.....

Thanks! That worked. I was wondering how I would uniformly make the bit smaller, so I took the next largest bit in relation to the hole, and put it in a cordless drill, backwards. Then with a dremel I ground on it while both the drill and dremel were going, to keep the bit rotating while grinding...feelin pretty cool. Thanks for the tip.

. except ol' funshootin1 ain't friends with no "company". . . and he ain't doing it for any "company" or for his livelihood' Agreed. I think the important statement is: ATF has determined that both colorization and heat treating of firearms are manufacturing processes. I still believe that there is no problem helping your friends. I also think the owner of the gun shop was trying to be more helpful than be a dick, or at very least his statements were not completely unfounded.

Actually, I think the owner was right. I believe to work on guns you at least have to have an FFL. I do not believe you are risking anything by having your friends over for a duracoat party, but I am also no lawyer. http://www.atf.gov/firearms/firearmstech/081508manufacturing-of-firearms.pdf "14. A company produces firearms or firearm receivers and sends the firearm/receivers out for colorizing (bluing, camouflaging, phosphating, or plating) and/or heat treating. Do the companies performing the colorization and/or heat treating need to be licensed as manufacturers, and are t

OK so I was under clearly undergassed, so I removed gas block and enlarged to 3/32. Test fired and got 1 FTE out of 50 low brass Walmart Federal bulk packs. Way better than before. I thought I was GTG and went to next 3 gun match and had 9 out of 14 FTE. WTF? Don't know but came home pissed and enlarged to 7/64, the next bit up. put the retaining pins/springs from gas block in plastic baggie, with the whole process under a half hour. Gas block went back on damn near perfect the first hammer pound after gas tube was connected, top pin goes in no problem.. then... the friggin baggie had

I did use the shelf bracket - happened to be in arms reach on the work bench. I also used the handle of a hammer - placed it on the edge and hit it with another heavy hammer. Imagine barrel down, chin on recoil pad, hammerin away...

Ok guys took your advise - my original holes were 5/64, so the 3/32 wasthe next bit in the quiver... drilled out all three and took it out to test, shot 50 roundes with no FTE - actually there was one, however different from my prior FTE, this one didnot eject all the way out, but another round was already chambered!? MOre like a stovepipe. I am back to my factory recoil spring, which makes me feel better, too. I am thinking of replacing my hammer spring back to original as well, but not sure yet. I am a little bummed that it finally works because my OCD lived well with such a a propblema

I am currently using an Eotech with the BP-02 side mount, and its holding up pretty well. I have it way back, with the controls nearly flush with the rear of the top cover. It gets it out of the way of the charging handle (I charge over the top). I have read also that the Eotech when installed over the ejection area may cause FTE due to getting in the way, but with mine back I have not had that trouble. I like the Eotech because of the big circle recticle. The Jpoint dot is small and a bit too precise for my personal taste, as the shotgun spread is way more forgiving, and with the big

Thanks guys - what does .093 equate to in bit size?

I have determined I am undergassed and ready to enlarge gas port holes. I have taken the gas block off and upon visual inspection I don't think there is room to add a 4th hole. My plan is to enlarge the 3 existing holes and hope for the best. I don't think I am too shy of having adequate gas, I am cycling federal value pack ammo, but not 100% and I am using light weight trigger spring and recoil spring. My questions are: What would the drill bit size be to best solve without drilling 4th hole? The one thing I am totally unsure of is the gas "bleed" hole on the gas block. I read the "fi

Fist things first I did use the search function. Search FTE and cobra and you may as well be looking for 2 needles in a hayfield. I would very much appreciate your assistance, and thank you in advance. I'm trying to locate the recent post in which Cobra posted the step by step to enlarge gas ports. It had pics with toothpicks to indicate angle of holes, hole size/bit size ect - very detailed and informative. If someone could post that link it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the assistance. Now if someone could give me advice on getting this thing refinished... well, start by taking all the stuff you just put in back out....

I hook the front tab on the front end of the mag well, and then pull back to lock. There is a sweet spot that the tab engauges solid to give leverage when the rear locks, pushing the round down as it locks-too much forward angle and the tab won't catch, to little angle and the tab pops out - perfect angle the front tab is locked solid and 1st round is just touching the bolt - then pull back. Not sure if this is the "correct" way, but it works for me. I have also found that the surefire mags I am using were more easy to load the longer I had them - just got some new ones and they are more

Looks like the forward grip is going to be very close to the trigger guard looking at your pics.....if that alum. U channel was slightly longer would you be able to connect via rail straight to that? or perhaps something like this?

I still need to add a Forward Assist Grip. Glad to see the carry handle worked! Looking good. Ever see a Monolith arms forend? May be hard to come by, but may fit your needs....

Just got my mount from them. No problem. Use your credit card and it will make any issues easy to resolve. I don't think you will have any. I read the negatives on them too... after I had ordered, but it went smooth...

Ace case now has pouches for the saiga 12/12 rounders, which are a little (lot) deeper.