Wade Pruetz

Springs would be my last resort you are just masking the problem but I believe you can use 1911 springs. Check the locking lugs on the bolt and trunnion where the lugs lock in for wear. Also check that slot on the barrel for the extractor has wear or metal protruding. Re-profiling the bolt may help but I doubt it since your gun worked fine before. Also check the bolt face for wear, sometimes the bolt is hitting the trunnion or barrel and causing the bolt carrier to shift over as the bolt goes into battery. Something has changed so look for wear that doesn't look normal, I spen

You can weld on it but with out re-heat treating properly it will become to brittle and crack even more. How do I know? We had a bolt carrier crack on a full auto shop gun, we welded it up with a tig and within a few thousand rounds it was cracking even worse. Try finding a bolt carrier I think they should be interchangeable.

I love my Saigas and run them in 3 gun competitions but I would never claim they or any semi auto gun is going to be 110% reliable. Just yesterday my S12 ran perfect through 3 stages and then gave me feeding problems on the last two stages, but I saw plenty of Benellis and other shotguns acting up as well. Mine turned out to be a magazine issue so no fault of the guns but never ever expect it to be 110% reliable if your life depends on it. Try a revolver or side by side shotgun if those are the requirements. If done properly the BHO will be the least of your problems with this shotgun, I have

If you are speaking of the piston that is screwed and dimpled to the bolt carrier than yes a little wobble is normal. Nothing need be done about it.

Put down the crack pipe, since you have never done it how can you reasonably asses how long it should take or how much it should cost. Yeah go ahead and DIY it with your dremel and hand tools tell me how that works out for you! Put down the flamethrower. Thats really how your going to treat other members by calling them crack addicts? Since your curious, I dont see how it should cost $400 to cut my barrel and add threading back to the end of the barrel. Thanks for your concern. I did show you concern before you got on a public forum accusing a respected vendor of charging t

Put down the crack pipe, since you have never done it how can you reasonably asses how long it should take or how much it should cost. Yeah go ahead and DIY it with your dremel and hand tools tell me how that works out for you!

You are in for a steep learning curve, you may want to check out the NFA section where Tromix ran down about everything you need to know about making an SBS. I have access to a lathe and mill not to mention a few years of building experience, it isn't an easy thing you are wanting to do. You may want to leave the SBS to people who know what they are doing.

Basstool has that tap for $23.50, no need for a premium tap since you are chasing threads.

Not unless it had wheels........ Kinda looks like that R&R 20 round mag!

Stubborn would be an understatement, LOL. That was the last one that I will do by hand now that I have access to a mill and lathe. There may be some interesting things coming in the near future Yeah I am going to build out my shop and put in a lathe and mill sometime this year. I have that same stubborn streak myself. Seen a lot of barrels cut off, never once have I seen it flake off.

Save yourself the headache and move the gas system back. Yes it can be done without shortening the gas system at 11.5-12" but it will take a whole lot of massaging. If you don't have a lathe then send it out to a shop like Tac47 or the like who do this all the time.

Nice! Where there is a will there is a way!

I'll take the die and handle. PM in bound

Go big and I say that with all humility! That is the beauty of the auto plug, if you do over gas the gun which in my mind would be very hard to do with either the 1/16 or 3/32, you can always loosen the spring tension till your birdshot just cycles and then tighten a 1/4 turn. When we built my SBS we got lazy and hogged out the ports to something like 3 ports at a #32 bit, big ass ports to say the least There is no way we could run any other plug but the autoplug stock plug included, because the bolt carrier would slam the rear trunnion hard, with the autoplug we kept backing off the spring te

Okay Bridis glad you set me straight! So you see a lot of race guns on this forum do you? The OP stated "interested in what you did and why" Everything in my post was what I did and why as he asked! Had I wanted to show it off I would have started my own thread which I have done every time I built a new SBS. Introducing something new? Don't remember stating in my post that we were introducing something or reinventing the wheel, besides there is nothing new on this forum, its the same old which quad rail should I run? Which stock is best? How do I get my under gassed gun to cycle?

A picture is worth a thousand words. I much prefer helping someone who knows a little about what they are talking about as opposed to the guy who wants to know why his new S12 wont cycle after he converted it. The same questions get asked over and over and it drives me crazy, thus I answer very few questions unless I think the answer aren't readily available. Showing off my new toy,...not really, I don't think this kinda gun is appreciated on this board, most of the S12s I see on here lean heavily to the Tacticool side of the spectrum which is as far from this gun as you can get. I get to bang

Well I just built a race gun with my good friend Keith at Tac47 but I don't think this is a diy project if done right. First thing we did was move the gas system back about 2.75 inches to speed up the cycle rate and give the gun extra gas once we install a mid barrel compensator. Running chokes is a must if you want to knock down big poppers at any distance not to mention busting clays. We cut the threads off the barrel, reamed and threaded the barrel for Rem chokes. I run an IC choke but have had luck with a rifled deer choke as well. As you can see we got rid of th

Limbsaver makes a slip on pad for the M4 stock which is real nice, I adapted it to work with a CTR with minimal effort.

Every S12 I have ever built was north of $1500 and thats with me doing the labor.

If you haven't taken off the quad rail completely do it and put the stock hand-guard back on, I have built at least a 100 or so S12s and every once in a while we see one that doesn't like the quad rail. If you have ever seen one of these shoot in slow motion the flex is tremendous, a lot of the quad rails will prevent this flex or allow one side to flex more than the other. As you can imagine this will cause the gun to bind and not cycle. I always tell people to put the gun back to stock and add one part at a time until they find what is causing the problem. I had a gun once that cycled anythi

Trigger guard sold to Red333

First off is this gun legal 922r wise with that Mag, not sure what the parts count is on that gun but I would make sure just in case. Cycling...did you pull the gas puck out and clean the chamber out? After 250 rounds it may be filthy.Is that a recoil reducing stock with low gas that maybe a contributing factor.

Yes it does

Magwells SPF to Genocide666

2 - JTE Magwells for S12 both in good condition, 1 has the holes elongated to adjust for fitment of magwell dosen't affect how it mounts or performs. $50.00 each Both magwells sold to Genocide666 Elongated holes None Elongated Holes JTE Trigger Guard for Saiga 12 Allows you to run any AR style Pistol Grip $40.00 Sold To Red333 Items located in Houston Texas, buyer pays actual shipping USPS Flat Rate usually $6-7 insured