SGL

Not funny at all. I've posted similar videos here before and it's ridiculous how many of these are out there. I get that it's a different culture, but how can you be so negligent when it comes to your child's safety? They took out the mag before giving it to him, so they obviously understand that it's more than he can handle, and yet they still set him up to fail. I can't stand bad parents. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZOSDSX7ZN0

If I'm not mistaken, it should install exactly the same as the Zhukov stock and there are plenty of videos on YouTube showing that process.

Unless you're looking to print tiny groups for fun, you shouldn't need magnification at 50-100. In my opinion, the ideal offering from Primary Arms is their Advanced Micro Dot. (MD-ADS) They are a clone of the Aimpoint T1 and a good one at that. The advanced version mentioned above even has the ridiculous battery life that will allow you to leave it on at all times. For a cheap QD option, you can get the Key Zion Aimpoint T1 Quick Release for $25 which would let you quickly remove the optic if you had a problem with it. There's plenty of video of Primary Arms dots taking a beating in

Pros and cons to folding on either side. Folding to the left, it would be easier to operate with the stock folded as it will not be blocking your access to the charging handle or safety. However, a left side folder will not fold completely if you have an optic mounted using the side rail. If you plan to use your side rail to mount optics, one that folds to the right is probably a better choice. If you don't plan on using optics or prefer an Ultimak or other option that doesn't use the rail, folding to the left may be the way to go.

They are both plastic but the KVAR feels a lot more solid than the Phoenix.

The Bonesteel folder is very well built and of a similar design. You're probably best ordering from CNC Warrior if you go that route.

If you don't want to cut the tang, give CSS a call. They are great people and supporters of the forum. They sell different packages, so they may allow you to return the block and stock for a partial refund on what you paid for the kit.

You'll be able to swap stocks that are compatible with that block. You would lose the ability to use any standard AK buttstocks out there. I'm not sure what you were going to attach to this block, but there is probably a comparable alternative that will bolt up to your tang. With your tang still intact you could use VLTOR or Rifle Dynamics adapter to attach a tube and M4 Stock. Magpul and Bonesteel (CNC Warrior) make excellent folding options, and there is surplus furniture from wire and Beryl folders to good old fashioned wood that will bolt right up to your existing tang. I've never

First, take a moment to consider if you really want to cut the tang. There are a ton of great stock options out there that won't require you to permanently alter the rifle. Maybe you already put a bunch of thought into this before ordering the part, but if not it's worth a few minutes of contemplation. If you decide that you want to keep the tang, I would bet CSS would be happy to take the part back, or you could sell it.

That's a job well done and something you can be proud of.

I'm surprised to hear this as I don't recall ever reading about one of these failing. Of course I don't doubt you but it doesn't seem common. Has anyone else here ever broken a factory 5?

There might be some conventional wisdom out there but the only way to know for sure is to buy a variety of boxes with different loads and try them in your shotgun. I have seen very different patterns out of guns that on paper should have produced the same results. Figure out what size pattern you need at what distance and try different brands and loads until you find the one that comes closest to your goals. Stock up on a reasonable amount for your application and then go out and buy a lot of cheap stuff to practice with and store. There are still great deals out there on Estate Buc

Good strategy. I wasn't sure if these might be Russian 5 rounders which are also obviously GTG.

Or he was looking for something sweet at the bottom of a Honey Bucket and found blue water instead. Poor Winnie the Pooh.

The only way it can hurt is they are loose enough now to hinder function. If you fix them and later mix them up with mags that you might use to defend yourself and the JB weld comes off, you could be in trouble. If I was attempting this, I would wrap some bright yellow electrical tape around them to designate them as range use only.

Not nearly as practical and not really necessary for rifle magazines but definitely cool... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK67sB_2_Zw

I ran across this on Gunbroker and despite being very temping, I can't justify buying it right now. Apparently this guy is selling an SGL12-09 with a buy it now price of $799.00 and free shipping. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=507757888 For those of you not familiar with this model, it was imported by KVAR in it's factory unmolested state. It's not a conversion, it's an S12 built in pistol grip configuration at Izhmash. This takes away a lot of the fun of converting for you guys that are into that, but it comes ready to go for someone that would prefer no

Scotch bright pads are great for this, as well as the inside of the gas block and the piston.

No, the tail of the bolt carrier often mushrooms due to the sharp corners on the hammer of the G2 triggers. The rear corner is the one most responsible, and you can see this by slowly pulling the charging handle back when the hammer is in the forward position. You'll see where the tail hits that hard corner and deforms. If you're careful, you can round out that hard corner on the hammer (not the hammer face itself) with a hand file and sandpaper to prevent this or keep it from getting worse. From what I have seen, this is more of an issue on Hungarian and Yugo rifles. I think that t

If I'm not mistaken, it was originally developed for rifles equipped with grenade launchers after top covers started flying off when launching them. I'm guessing that Izhmash probably had the same thing happening when they were developing the S12 due to the increased recoil of the 12 gauge. Adding it is an extra step that costs money, so I don't think they would include it if it wasn't needed. It's really not hard to manage once you're used to it and will become second nature once you've taken it apart enough times for cleaning.

The easiest explanation is photoshop but if it's real, it's pretty weird. http://www.alloutdoor.com/2015/09/09/shot-a-pig-with-blue-fat/

At Midway USA

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/97575-spare-parts/

There's no way you would see me holding that up in front of my face and pulling the trigger. It works 100%.....so far.