Gunfixr

We got some of the 12rd mags in, and I might get one just to have, but I'll stick with the AGPs. First, it has plastic feed lips molded as part of the magazine. Since all of the spring pressure is riding on the rim, as opposed to a length of the cartridge, I cannot say how long they will last. Second, when you take a 12rd and a 10rd AGP side by side and depress the follower, there is a noticeable difference in the spring pressure, with the AGP actually stronger than the Surefire. I haven't tested one yet, so cannot personally say about their reliability.

Difficult? Not really, with the right equipment. Yes, the gas bleed off holes must be redrilled, and. with a 10" barrel, the old holes welded up. I couldn't price it until I knew exactly what you wanted, just like Bobash said.

I'm not exactly sure if this is what you're talking about, but I've seen some guns where the ring that keeps the cover on the guide rod doesn't fit in the slot of the bolt carrier, and binds as it tries to move. This can be verified by pulling the front spring offof the guide rod, after which the cover will slide off. The ring on the cover should slide freely through the slot in the carrier. If not, then it needs to be filed until it does. Sometimes the ring is too large, or the hole is not centered, and causes it to bind.

I was at the Hampton show today. Shame, we could've got together and BS'ed for awhile.

I suppose with a 10" barrel the gas block could be left in place, but the muzzle will be about 1" from the gas block. It could be made to work. Personally, I'd move it back at least a little. With an 8" barrel, there's no choice, as the muzzle is back past the gas block's original position.

The new gas plus do indeed have detents at the positions. They will lock in place and stay there while firing.

Congrats, Cameron, that's cool to hear.

Offering things for sale, maybe?

Unless you live in one of those states that prohibits high capacity magazines, you can make whatever you want, mag wise. At least for now. There are rumors that that will "change".

Yeah, in the old days, before choke boring, shot buffering and wad cups, there were many different guages to do different things. There was 4, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 24, 28, and 32ga. Then there was .410 bore and 9mm rimfire shot. The bigger ones, 0, 2, and such, which were often mounted as mentioned, were commonly referred to as "punt guns", and they just filled the area with shot, killing large numbers of birds at one time.

Before I went to work at Firearms Sales, I was seriously looking into getting an FFL for my shop at home. ATF told me it wasn't a problem as long as the city signed off on it. You need to talk to your local zoning comitee, they can tell you whether or not your are is zoned to allow a business, and what steps you need to take to get there. You don't need a "kit"; as mentioned, ATF will send you the forms for free. If you get to sending in the app, they will more than likely come pay a visit, just to make sure you've got a secure location, and to go over how everything works. It's not that hard

It did seem kinda wrong, but that was how I understood it when ATF explained it to me.

For anyone who might be a bit confused about how this plug compares to the one I have been marketing up to now, it is the same basic plug, but with a few minor changes. The basic plug had 4 settings, 0 (off), 1 (least gas, for 3" shells), 2 (for high brass 2 3/4" shells), and 3 (the most gas, for low brass birdshot shells). As it turns out, the newer guns are getting more gas than the older ones, as Mike noticed. I have a couple customers with new guns that have never even used the number 3 setting. The other advantage to this plug is that it allows easy changing of the settings by hand, witho

You can send your unconverted S12 to Tony, along with your approved Form 1, directly from your residence, irregardless of state lines. You get your info, such as barrel length, from Tony, and use the original serial number. He can then engrave it and do the work. He will engrave it with the name of the manufacturer that is listed on the Form 1, as per regulations. This will be you, or your Trust, or whatever. You will have to pay the $200 "making tax" to ATF prior to the Form 1s approval. He can send it back directly to you. ATF would like to have a Form 5 notifying them of this shipping back

I suppose that while the gun is still new, you could put the safety on "fire", pulling out on the end so as not to drag on the side, and then just not use it.

The short answer is that yes, you can take a torch and heat up the charging handle and bend it. The longer answer is that you need to be quite careful. You need to not ruin the heat treatment where the cam slot is that rotates the bolt, and you need to not heat up the area just past the bottom of the handle where the flat part is that rides on the receiver. If you get this area hot enough, it will distort down when bending the handle, and the carrier will no longer sit down in the receiver correctly. As long as you get the handle a good red glow, it will bend easily, and not break.

Rockmup, I have a project idea that will give me a spare barrel, but I don't know exactly when I'll be able to do it. If it comes to fruition, I'll give you a holler.

+1 If you get the muzzle very close to the gas block, the ports end up being so large that you pack the gas block with wadding in no time.

You'd have to drill out the apertures just to see through them most likely, or just ignore them and only use the v-notch. You can do some selective tweaking of the cover and get it reasonably tight, minimize the movement.

If you're modifying the face of a G2 hammer and go too far, you'll have problems, but some reshaping will make it smoother functioning. I haven't seen one act as a BHO yet, but they do drag more. I usually recontour the carrier some, and they don't hang up anymore.

I just recently did an 8" SBS for someone who had done a Form 1. I moved the gas block back about 3", or just over. It left 2" of barrel past the gas block. It has 4 ports about the same size as factory. One note; if you move the gas block, you will have to turn the barrel diameter down, and it will require a lathe. Therefore, a 9" barrel with the gas block in the factory location puts the muzzle right at the gas block. While I haven't tried it yet, I've seen pics of Tromix guns set up that way, so it can be done. It will be easier to get reliability with some barrel past the gas block, thoug

Since compliance is no longer an issue, I suppose none.

That's what I meant by "dwell time". The amount of time that gas pressure is going through the port, which is the amount of time that elapses after the projectile (in this case the wad w/shot column), passes the port until it exits the muzzle.

I believe you can drop the stock hammer back in, but you lose one compliance part. If you have enough others, this isn't an issue, but if not, well...... You don't have to cut the side down anyway. All you need to do is cut about .050" off the end of the hub where the spring wraps around on the side where the BHO is, and grind that hump off the bottom where it hits the cross member until it will go forward far enough to solidly strike the firing pin, and you're GTG. The ears can be left alone and it will work fine. Compliance is no longer an issue, since an 8" gun is a registered NFA w

My question is, how close is that going to put the gas block to the muzzle? With the added weight to the bolt carrier, and the drop in pressure due to being further from the chamber, it's going to need more gas, maybe quite a bit. Since you're not getting more pressure, the only hope is to get more volume, which means dwell time. If the gas block is too close to the muzzle, dwell time is nonexistent. Since you're basically rebuilding the gas system anyway, to save some work and relieve some weight from the carrier, you could convert it to a short-piston system. Simply put it an intermediat