Gunfixr

To answer your question, Slash-5, yes, the same applies as it does with FALs. ATF gives three acceptable ways of permanently attaching a muzzle device so that it will count as part of the barrel: blind pinning, welding, or solder having a melting temp above 1100 degrees (silver solder). There used to be some who stated that an interference press-fit was also acceptable, but the letter I have from ATF does not say this.

First, before someone gets themselves in trouble, Saigas do have headspace, all guns have headspace. The only difference is where the measurements are taken. The headspace on a rimmed cartridge is taken from the rim seat to the breech face. Shotguns are fairly low pressure, and the headspace is not so critical as in some other guns, but it is important. As for the firing pins, I make them when they are ordered, I don't have time to make a bunch and keep them. I am looking into getting them made, but haven't really had time to do that either. I do make them slightly different than stock. I

Were you thinking of eating it? There are better ways to get your fiber intake. I wouldn't wrap my steak with it, but I doubt it'll make your nads turn into oatmeal. The Governments of the world have been using it for decades, I haven't heard of anyone dying from it yet.

+1000 You can't work under a bunch of fear, and get things done, and come up with something new. Blazing a trail is always scary. I don't know who said it, but "All great action carries risk".

XS sells a Big Dot AK front post. You cut the post short, drill and tap a hole in the top of the gas block to match, and just screw the thing in. You could also use one for a standard shotgun barrel, and drill and tap for that, it'll just be a lot smaller diameter post holding it on. For the rear, almost any pistol sight will do if you weld up the dovetail and cut it to fit. That also allows you to adjust the height.

You can get an 8" gun to run low-brass ammo, you just gotta be careful about resetting the plug for anything hotter.

I do some polishing on the hammer, mostly on the lobes where the trigger and disconnector ride. Polishing the face doesn't remove the resistance on the carrier like modding the carrier does. Also, like Cobra mentioned, it's real easy to either stop the gun from firing, or make it not catch the disconnector anymore by reshaping the hammer face.

I do machine the carrier some, but it has nothing to do with the shells. I do it so that the bolt carrier rides back over the hammer with almost no resistance, making chambering much more positive.

I looked a just cutting it to fit, but the base would be pretty thin afterwards. As Bob said, they're pretty malleable. Tony might have a die, I don't know. When I formed it, it didn't match exactly, so I then finished cut it to fit. Still pretty thick that way. You just gotta be careful forming it, not to crush the top loop.

I don't generally cut to 18 1/16", it's too close. I usually cut to 18 1/2", but will go down to 18 1/8" upon specific request. There are a couple reasons for this. One, the BATFE accepted and standardized method of measurement is to stick a rod down the bore until it hits the breech face (the closed bolt), and measure from the end at the breech to where it shows at the muzzle. For all I know, they have a marked rod. If the markings are off, or there ends up being any error in the measurement process, a little extra room on the barrel saves a ton of headache. If your barrel is cut at

Every one I've seen is wobbly, although some more than others. When doing a conversion using a push button folder, I weld a small button at the top and bottom where the stock side of the folder unit hits it when closed. I then carefully file it down to where it will just allow the folder to close and lock easily. There is a small amount of wobble left, but much less than before. On an aluminum block, a screw could be tapped in and bottomed out, then filed in the same manner. It'll be interesting to see DPHs folder.

I haven't seen the "Barrel relief turned", so I'm not sure on that one. The "Feed ramp riveted in" is for the rifles. "Gas block aligned as required" is for the shotguns, as often the ports or the gas block itself are misaligned and blocking off some or most of the ports. This will keep the gun from cycling reliably. "Extractor and extractor relief tuned" is also for the shotguns. With a new S12, you can notice that as the bolt carrier moves forward, just before the bolt stops and the carrier rotates it into breech lock, there is a lot of resistance. If you ease the bolt forward, y

There are no absolutely jam-proof semiautomatic or fully automatic firearms, none. Even the AK will jam, under the right conditions.

Thanks, I'll check that out.

I have one of the Warfield Armory units also, but haven't yet decided what to do with it. I was waiting to see Cobras, as his is supposed to not require magazine mods. Too busy now to mess with it, it's just sitting in its envelope. I had one of my own design, simpler than Warfields, it automatically activated the factory BHO, with the same mag mods as Warfields. It's been working in 2 guns for about 9 months now. Was going to add it to my new gun, make it 3 guns, but it didn't fit with the spring for the Garand safety. I'd have to do one like Warfields, replace the factory BHO. Di

Where'd you get it, if you don't mind my asking? Also, about how much was it? I think I'd rather use CZ 26 mags, though, as I already have a bunch of them. Probably not difficult to change. The bolt and barrel are the important parts, mainly the barrel.

Yes, the plug is steel, just not blued. It's one of the soft ones I was making when I was starting a run. I had to shorten the knurled section, or cut more out of the rail, so that it would slide down in between the rail and gas block. I'm going to cut down a regular harder one soon. I've also got a self-regulating plug started for prototyping. The quad rail is a UTG AR freelfloat HG. I modified it to fit. Didn't want to start with a $300 quad rail and ruin it. That one runs about $80. It's only touching at the bottom of the gas block. It's ground down some, and there's a hole drilled thro

Accuracy isn't match grade, but it's a battle rifle. From what I've seen, they're about on par with the average G3 at least. Mags are everywhere, metric ones at least. Most kit built guns are using metric magwell receivers, even on Inch guns, simply because the mags are more available. They can be had for under $10 if you shop a little. I think about the cheapest ammo right now is the Radway Green British ammo. It's plenty good ammo.

Finally got my new S12 done. It took about 5 months, sneaking in time here and there in between everything else. It has lots of new unusual features. A couple pics: More pics, and detailed descriptions are down in Firearms Sales section in this thread:http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=40695

I had 2, but I still got one !! My custom shorty. The barrel is 16 1/4" at the end of the permanent mounted Vortex. It's probably the only mid-length gas system FAL in existence. It's halfway between the gas system of the original and DSAs short system. It's an Inch pattern rifle. I made the stock from scratch, it doesn't fold, but I'm thinking of changing that, and made the pistol grip. Replaced the wood on the custom shortened Israeli handguards with a solid plastic piece so the VFG could be added.

I been thinking about an AR upper in that. With a block, or a spacer mounted onto the mags (CZ26 mags), they'd work in the magwell. Since I built the Cobray M11 in that, I got a ton of the ammo.

Hhmmmm, is that kinda like "ultra-pregnant" ???? Shotguns really shine as a battle weapon at 20yds and less. The ability to hit with large numbers of decent-sized projectiles with few pulls of the trigger, coupled with just about the least over-penetration you can get, makes for a good combination. Also, for the home protection scenario, the ammo capacity isn't even a factor. If you need 30 rds of rifle ammo, the rifle didn't do you any good anyway, because all you've done is kill the whole neighborhood with all those misses. For SHTF, or TEOTWAWKI, I wouldn't take a shotgun as my main

Stans machinist fix works, and I've done it myself many times over the years. However, while hitting it from the side works, in this instance you need to be sure to support the other side of the gas block when doing this. The reason is that even though it has 2 pins holding it to the barrel, a good whack on one side will rotate it on the barrel slightly. Yes, even with the pins in. What probably screwed up the threads to begin with was tapping out the puck. They are a very close fit, and if they get the least bit crooked, they bind. In the threads, if it gets crooked, it's sitting against

I don't know what Tony told the OP, and it's none of my business. That said, I have a customer who likes to put together 1911s as a hobby to fill his time. He brings me guns to fit parts when they don't go together right, which seems to happen often enough, as he's buying gunshow unnamed parts. Such parts turn out to be out of spec all too often. Anyway, I get it all fitted and working as it should. Later, he brings it back, he's added something else, but it also needs refitting, it doesn't work again. Seems he's removed some of those carefully fitted parts when he had it apart, and put in

As 20yrs of being a machinist, I can tell you 2 ways to get it out. 1) With a TIG welder, build up the tap until you have metal sticking up out of the hole, drop a nut over it, weld the nut on, and back the tap out. 2) With a milling machine (most drill presses aren't ridgid enough, nor go slow enough) and a carbide drill, drill out the center of the tap, just larger than the bottom of the flutes. What is even better is to make a drill from a carbide endmill, as it will be more ridgid and less likely to break. You grind a spade point on it.