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Anyone know if these are in new production now? or if there are any american made guns in this cal? I've heard some outstanding performance reviews on the 7.62X54R round, but it seems like i'd have to get a war relic or a SVD to be able to use it, i'm wondering if there is a new production bolt action hunting rifle out there? :sadam:

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Anyone know if these are in new production now? or if there are any american made guns in this cal? I've heard some outstanding performance reviews on the 7.62X54R round, but it seems like i'd have to get a war relic or a SVD to be able to use it, i'm wondering if there is a new production bolt action hunting rifle out there? :sadam:

 

no

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If you want one, you could always build one up on a civvie Remington or Savage action.

 

However, there is nothing wrong with starting out with a "war relic" as you call it and making a target rifle from it.

 

Strip off the stock and barrel, add a match barrel, properly fitted to the action, and you're off to a good start.

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I've looked into building one on a Savage 110 action, problem was finding anyone to make the barrel, I called all of the major barrel manufacturers and they all said they don't do them. I don't have the expertise to chamber and rifle it myself. It would be an incredible rifle though!

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Something I'm currently working on

 

Refinished mosin 91/30 action

Boyd's Sporter walnut stock, slightly modified w/ side fillets and bipod attachment

ATI scope mount & bolt handle conversion

3x9 glass

 

Cheap shooter that (I think) is going to look fantastic when finished.

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Something I'm currently working on

 

Refinished mosin 91/30 action

Boyd's Sporter walnut stock, slightly modified w/ side fillets and bipod attachment

ATI scope mount & bolt handle conversion

3x9 glass

 

Cheap shooter that (I think) is going to look fantastic when finished.

nice, post up pics when your done man, i'd like to take a gander at that...btw, that 91/30, hex receiver? tula made?

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That is a beautiful rifle, but upon closer inspection you can see that it is a Mosin Nagant in new clothing. That bolt is clearly a Mosin bolt and the wood in front of the trigger clearly is hiding the 5rd box magazine. And look at that beautiful hex receiver. . .

Edited by Ax-Man
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Yes...of course that is a Mosin. Even the model name tells you it's a Mosin...KO 91/30MC. BUT it is not a "war relic" rather a newly built rifle as the op requested. It's like an old beat to shit Remington that was used in Vietnam or a new 700P TWS. And it was just a quick example of a current production 7.62x54r rifle.

 

EDITED to add: BTW....the Russians still have current military weapons based on the Mosin action.

Edited by us_dragunov
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wow, i need to check that out, russia doesn't export their true match 54R rounds that they use, and half the time they reload themselves, but 54R has been known to be more accurate then match .308.....i need to find that gun.

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Vultite. Just ordered a 91/30 and am updating it abit. Just post in this forum about mod'ing it out abit.

 

I can share some links on PM's with you on the Nagant. (most can be g**gled)

 

If someone could modify the mag to be detach on these OLDIES I'd snatch a new receiver from them. Any BUILDERS want to take a stab at that?? Its not hard, the barrells are used on GB and someone could MIMIC the receiver and attach a Drag type mag catch.

 

Off Topic.

My local dealer wanted $569 for a 308 21" Saiga so the only business hes getting is $30 xfers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, there are non "war relic" Mosins.

 

1. Most Mosins made after WW2 have never seen combat, therefore, not "war". This includes many M44's. 91/59's are cut down 91/30's, and may have seen combat. There are also plenty of postwar M39's, though the receivers they're built more than likely have seen combat. Chinese T53s have never seen combat, nor have Czech Vz54's nor Finn Tkiv-85's.

 

2. In the US, any gun built on a receiver made before 1899 is an antique, therefore not a "relic". Pre-99 guns are legally not curios or relics per BATF regs. In fact, the BATF has no jurisdiction whatsoever over pre '99 guns. Russian M91's are often on pre 99 receivers, but they are pretty rare. Finnish rifles are often built on pre 99 receivers too and tend to be a little easier to find. Just about all of these such guns have seen combat, somtimes in multiple wars. There may exist some Tkiv-85's built on pre-99 receivers that have also never seen combat, but no records exist for the receivers and it's pretty safe to assume they're all war vets of some sort.

 

Ok but seriously, do you want a 91/30 sniper, or do you want a dead accurate Mosin? They're not the same thing. Finding accurate 91/30's is a total crap shoot and those trendy sniper stamps are no garuantee of actual accuracy, sadly. Your best bet is either to collect a gaggle of 91/30's and pick the best shooting one for a sniper conversion, or shop around for a Finnish Mosin. In either case, LEAVE IT STOCK. If you must drill and tap for a scope, use a proper PEM or PU mount. There are enough mutilated bubba specials. Chopping up the stock and barrel won't make your rifle more accurate; it only makes ugly and less valuable.

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aresv..Too late stock is cut. I'm hoping its accurate and will try my darndest to make it so #1.

 

I understand what your saying. I want a MODERN looking rifle and can't swing a $600 Savage 10FP at this moment.

 

I'd rather put in a few hours and have a rifle decent out to 300 yards or so.

 

I figure total cost will be like $300.

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aresv..Too late stock is cut. I'm hoping its accurate and will try my darndest to make it so #1.

 

I understand what your saying. I want a MODERN looking rifle and can't swing a $600 Savage 10FP at this moment.

 

I'd rather put in a few hours and have a rifle decent out to 300 yards or so.

 

I figure total cost will be like $300.

 

No worries. Going free floated means you won't have to mess around with shims at all. If you wanted to do it on a real budget, you could bed the action with devcon steel putty. It's a 2-part epoxy putty that contains powdered steel. It sets up a lot like JB Weld, but denser, harder, and without all the goopiness before it sets. I've done some rifles with it and it works great. You can even use car wax as a release agent for more low-tech savings :)

 

If you play your cards right, most of that budget could go toward a nice solid scope mount and optics. Then, with consistent loads (including some milsurp ammo, even) I bet you'll have a rifle that's decent well beyond 300 yards.

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I've looked into building one on a Savage 110 action, problem was finding anyone to make the barrel, I called all of the major barrel manufacturers and they all said they don't do them. I don't have the expertise to chamber and rifle it myself. It would be an incredible rifle though!

 

Dave Moore at Spider Firearms has barrels for the Savage.

Savage Lothar Walther Match barrels

 

 

Dave's a great guy to deal with. He built my .50 for me. I'm sure he can fix you up with a tack-driving barrel for your Savage.

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FYI Dev Con also makes a titanium putty. And like the steel putty it can be tapped and will hold threads I use it to repair end bells on generators where the bearing has spun out, and even hydraulic pistons that have gouges or scoring.

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FYI Dev Con also makes a titanium putty. And like the steel putty it can be tapped and will hold threads I use it to repair end bells on generators where the bearing has spun out, and even hydraulic pistons that have gouges or scoring.

 

That's pretty cool. I've heard of some high speed bedding jobs using tungsten powder for the extra density, but never titanium. Guess the ti comes in handy when you need corrosion resistance? In my limited machining and welding experience, titanium is a royal bitch to work with, but a the finished parts are fantastic once they're done.

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Aresv.. I thought the point of floting was to have a THIN layer between the metat/metal points?

 

Won't the METAL filling from the Devcon once it sets act like a HARD slap to the rec/barr everytime I fire the thing??

 

I'm confused. I thought GLASS BEAD was kinda a SOFT type of bedding that gives a tiny bit when fired but keeps the assy. OFF the furniture for less STIFFNESS. Seems like anything that drys HARD goes against this idea>

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Aresv.. I thought the point of floting was to have a THIN layer between the metat/metal points?

 

Won't the METAL filling from the Devcon once it sets act like a HARD slap to the rec/barr everytime I fire the thing??

 

I'm confused. I thought GLASS BEAD was kinda a SOFT type of bedding that gives a tiny bit when fired but keeps the assy. OFF the furniture for less STIFFNESS. Seems like anything that drys HARD goes against this idea>

 

Bedding is supposed to be hard and rigid, and it goes without saying that you don't want any metal-to-wood contact. Repeatability is key. You want to hold the receiver so that it remains in the same position from shot to shot without variation.

 

Google for some howtos on bedding a rifle receiver. All it takes is a thin layer of bedding compound. You just mask off holes where you don't want the compound, coat the receiver in release agent (aka turtle wax) and mold a solid, extremely intimate fit between the receiver and stock.

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