PacketStorm 0 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 What methods do you guys use to clean out your rifle after griding/filing/polishing/dremmeling inside the receiver? I sprayed a shitload of a gun solvent and was letting it run all over and still seem to have a lot of metal inside. (I had to grind down and then polish the Tapco hammer to get the bolt to slide forward properly.) The gun cleaner I was using is pretty expensive to use up in one shot clearing out all that crap from inside my rifle. aaaaahhhhhhh..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 thats what I use... spray degreaser - cleaner stuff... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chupacabrah 0 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 doesn't brake kleen work also (as a cheap alternative)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deadeye 325 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 What methods do you guys use to clean out your rifle after griding/filing/polishing/dremmeling inside the receiver? I sprayed a shitload of a gun solvent and was letting it run all over and still seem to have a lot of metal inside. (I had to grind down and then polish the Tapco hammer to get the bolt to slide forward properly.) The gun cleaner I was using is pretty expensive to use up in one shot clearing out all that crap from inside my rifle. aaaaahhhhhhh..... air compressor and or brake kleen for auto repair blasts away anything just oil after it dries. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtnichols 51 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 +1 for compressed air, blow it down the barrel, up the barrel, through the receiver once everything has dried out,.. aaaaahhhhhhh..... air compressor and or brake kleen for auto repair blasts away anything just oil after it dries. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 (edited) Are we talking compressed air tanks, or compressed air bottles? I've seen people using the big tank setups, but I've wondered if you could use those bottles that you can buy at pretty much anywhere, for spraying out electronics, but use them on guns. Think it's strong enough? Edited April 11, 2008 by 22_Shooter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cscharlie 107 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 If you don't have funds to own a compressor, you could buy a small portable air tank like the ones wally world sells for something like $20.00. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 What methods do you guys use to clean out your rifle after griding/filing/polishing/dremmeling inside the receiver? I sprayed a shitload of a gun solvent and was letting it run all over and still seem to have a lot of metal inside. (I had to grind down and then polish the Tapco hammer to get the bolt to slide forward properly.) The gun cleaner I was using is pretty expensive to use up in one shot clearing out all that crap from inside my rifle. aaaaahhhhhhh..... PacketStorm, I have 2 magnets that I use to get to anything magnetic out of hard places. One is about the size of a bic pen and has a pocket clip on one end and a really strong magnet (the size of a pencil eraser). It telescopes out to about 18 inches and is great to keep cleaning metal away as you drill or grind. I am always amazed at how strong the magnet is. The other is about the size of the top of a coke can and about 1 inch thick. It is really strong and can pick up large amounts at one time. Last but not least is compressed air in a can that I buy in the computer section of Wally world. louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 If you don't have funds to own a compressor, you could buy a small portable air tank like the ones wally world sells for something like $20.00. How good are those portable tanks that you are talking about? Could I air up 4 automobile tires (that were each 6 pounds low on air) or what does it mean when the gauge reads 100 psi on the tank gauge? louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cellsworth 21 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 I try to minimize the clean-up by plugging/masking off the chamber, gas tube, and (in the case of external work) receiver openings. I also do as little machining work (preferably none, but sometimes you may need to) inside the receiver as possible. The magnet idea sounds good for an initial pass. That would pick up the worst of the metal particles so you wouldn't be blowing them all over with the compressed air. I sometimes use a small disposable brush to remove some particles, but using compressed air would probably be better. With most or all of the metal particles gone, you can always use cleaning patches and solvent for further cleaning. The compressed air bottles used to clean keyboards, etc. are probably a bit too low-pressure to do a really good job, but they're likely much better than nothing if you use the nozzle they come with to focus the air blast. The portable air tanks I know of are made to inflate tires after being filled using a compressor (to answer the above questions: most do have sufficient capacity to air up 4 car tires that are each 6 psi low; 100 psi means 100 pounds per square inch, it just tells you how high the tank pressure is. The tank pressure must be higher than the pressure in the tire you want to add air to, or no air will go into the tire). They only come with a standard tire-inflation fitting on the hose, and that wouldn't work for blowing anything clean. In my opinion, it wouldn't be worth buying and installing an air nozzle on an air tank like that. The peak pressure in the tank would drop very rapidly during such use. Small compressors are inexpensive and have many uses. I would go with one of those if you can afford it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PacketStorm 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Thanks guys. My father-in-law has a nice compressor tank - so I think I will give that a try. I've got a can of break free and will hit that first, then when it dries out hit it with the air tank. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wally 2 Posted April 22, 2008 Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 goto a auto parts store or wally world and get the cheapest can of carb cleaner works great Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TacoMalo 0 Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 (edited) What methods do you guys use to clean out your rifle after griding/filing/polishing/dremmeling inside the receiver? I sprayed a shitload of a gun solvent and was letting it run all over and still seem to have a lot of metal inside. (I had to grind down and then polish the Tapco hammer to get the bolt to slide forward properly.) The gun cleaner I was using is pretty expensive to use up in one shot clearing out all that crap from inside my rifle. aaaaahhhhhhh..... Was it getting hung up on the top portion of the hammer when you released the handle? Mine does that too I was going to flatten that curve on top that it's hitting but just wasn't sure if it was hitting in just that one spot or if something else was getting hung up. As for cleaning the shavings out I blasted it with compressed air to get the big stuff out then stripped it all down and sprayed it heavily with wd-40 and used a solvent brush and wiped it all out and cleaned up with a rag then put it all back together. Edited April 24, 2008 by TacoMalo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
captzeno 5 Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 A Tapco G2 FCG will take a little wearing in. After conversion, I just fire a 100 rounds or so through the rifle and let it break in naturally. As for cleaning chips and file trash compressed air can't be beat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbauch357 0 Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 (I had to grind down and then polish the Tapco hammer to get the bolt to slide forward properly.) I did the same thing (I kept in the factory hammer with the rest of the Tapco FCG so I could keep my BHO lever), but did all the midifications to the hammer on a workbench with the FCG dissasembled - so I didn't have to worry about the shavings getting inside the receiver... I think the difference is in the Tapco disconnector and not the hammer, it lets the hammer swing back up higher in the resting state than the stock disconnector - and this puts more pressure between the hammer and bolt... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kronnkk 0 Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 i take my freinds down to the car wash ,and strip it off ? lol oil and reassemble Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 If you use a magnet to pick up steel shavings put in in a plastic bag first. Then just turn the bag inside out to clean the magnet and contain the shavings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 If you use a magnet to pick up steel shavings put in in a plastic bag first. Then just turn the bag inside out to clean the magnet and contain the shavings. One thing I forgot to mention "when I said I use magnets to pick up as much as I can before I use anything else". When drilling steel,iron or anything magnetic, I stop and clean up shavings after every 15 seconds or so (depending on how quickly the shavings accumulate). I have found that this is better than waiting until I finish drilling. louielouie p.s. I experimented with putting a square piece of masking tape (about 5 by 5 inches) under the part I was drilling but it didn't work very well at catching and holding shavings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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