quikz 1 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I'm in the process of a PG conversion w/ krinkov style stock. I can drill the rivets out easily with standard drill bits. But what do you all use for the trigger guard weld??? That steel is TOUGH and have gone thru 3 bits already. The trigger plate/guard is all off the rifle receiver right now. Diamond/carbide tipped drill bits? Thanks, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldandslow 3 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 The trigger plate is off the rifle, heat it with a torch until red (Focus the heat on the spot weld). When it cools, it will be soft. Don't quench it (dip it in water). Let it cool to room temperature by itself. I use a propane torch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cellsworth 21 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I'm in the process of a PG conversion w/ krinkov style stock. I can drill the rivets out easily with standard drill bits. But what do you all use for the trigger guard weld??? That steel is TOUGH and have gone thru 3 bits already. The trigger plate/guard is all off the rifle receiver right now. Diamond/carbide tipped drill bits? Thanks, Cobalt alloy bits work very well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I used a dremel with a special steel cutting bit, I think I paid like $12.00 for that ONE dremel bit... but it chewed thru that spotweld like a nice steak... not butter... that would be too sloppy... but it still made quick work of it... LOL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sicktooth 8 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 (edited) +1 on the cobalt...it worked for me. Edited July 22, 2008 by sicktooth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevymann 13 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I used center drill bits for the trigger guard spot weld.. Read that tip here somewhere.. I picked up a set of 5 for less than $15 off Amazon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vultite 57 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 Cobalt bits are good, but make sure you have a solid starting point for your bit otherwise a wandering bit will break. I started small and went up in size Quote Link to post Share on other sites
quikz 1 Posted July 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 (edited) Yep....I used a Cobalt drill bit from Home Depot, which WORE OUT QUICK! Made useless now by the Saiga. Edited July 22, 2008 by quikz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
acercanto 6 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I don't remember who suggested it, but apparently, tile cutting carbide drill bits work well. Acer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
moxie1c 3 Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 No problem here with cobalt bits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scoutjoe 276 Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 +1 on the Cobalt bits....go slow and use oil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
quikz 1 Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 I already drilled thru okay. Finished the Saiga conversion already: Here's what it looks like http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=28066 .....thanks everyone! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neurosis 0 Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 +1 on the Cobalt bits....go slow and use oil Yup, what he said. I had put my cordless on the "1" setting and high torque instead of the drill setting, with a small container of used motor oil that I dipped the drill tip in every couple spins. I'll tell ya this though, I purchased the 3 piece center punch set from Home Depot and the durn Ruskie metal blunted all the tips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
banshee 69 Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 more than likely you are running the drill to fast. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NYMini 1 Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 I used a dremel with a special steel cutting bit, I think I paid like $12.00 for that ONE dremel bit... but it chewed thru that spotweld like a nice steak... not butter... that would be too sloppy... but it still made quick work of it... LOL +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
schadenfreude 2 Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 (edited) The easiest method by far is the glass and tile bit. It's heaps faster than the cobalt bits. No going slow...... just do it. I center punched it and drilled the bulk of it out in a few seconds and I was through the weld. Used a HSS bit to finish. Here are a few pics. Edited July 24, 2008 by schadenfreude Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 Those little make it hard to see what you are talking about. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
schadenfreude 2 Posted July 24, 2008 Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 Those little make it hard to see what you are talking about. Do you see any pictures at all? They aren't showing up for me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted July 25, 2008 Report Share Posted July 25, 2008 (edited) The pics show a spade type carbide inserted tile drill The #1 problem is heat, and as scoutjoe states spindle speeds If the drill goes too fast for only a second it can burn the cutting surfaces and work harden the steel The most pressure, thus more heat and it work hardens more and the drill dulls more It's hard to control speed with a hand drill, but can be done In a press run about 200 - 300 rpm and use oil The oil lubricates and helps with the transfer of heat into the chip the reason center drills work better is it has a heavy duty flut profile and material behind the cutting surfaces to absorb more heat before the edges burn. Carbide tools work because they can tolerate more heat and are harder, but much more brittle. Try the HSS or cobalt tools with proper speeds and if it burns ( stops cutting consistant chip ) then go to carbide The spot welds are harder than the surrounding material because the heat alters the hardness of the steel. Edited July 25, 2008 by skiboatsp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted July 26, 2008 Report Share Posted July 26, 2008 Do you see any pictures at all? They aren't showing up for me. They are showing up now, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tubebeast 0 Posted July 26, 2008 Report Share Posted July 26, 2008 when i did mine i got most of the way though it and just kind of pryed it off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.