Talk to me about Jeep Wranglers

[22_Shooter 1,560]

I want one.

 

Are there any certain model years I need to be on the look out for, as far as problems? I'm not really set on a specific year, since they all generally look the same, so I'd be interested if there were any mechanical differences I should know about.

 

I'm not looking to throw a lift-kit on it, or anything like that. But it would be nice to be able to dick around with some light/for-the-hell-of-it offroading, and use it as a daily-driver as well.

 

Plus, I'm getting sick of driving an automatic transmission . A manual trans is calling my name. I miss it.

 

By the way, I'm looking in the "used" market, not brand new. I'm po'.

[Norseman 0]

I own a 99, I have had it for 5 years and no problems to date other than the normal oil changes, brakes, battery, etc. It has 125k on it.

 

-E

[RUDY850 0]

I have a 08 4 door I love it

 

want to fix it up with a lift and big tires but cant stop buying guns

[squeak003 0]

where to start where to start..........

 

how about what i own....

i have a '92 YJ. yjs have square headlights and were built from '88 to '95 (the '96 year was labeled as a 95). they are leaf spring on all four corners (which with age tend to start saggin like mine). all of the buzz is "go coil" but it u want to lift it even just an inch or 2 the lifts are generaly cheaper. they came with a 2.5 4 cyl and a 4.0 inline 6. i recomend the inline 6 as i have a 2.5 and the 2.5 tend to wear out fast and be under powered. they have some rust issues right where it says jeep on the tub and the windshield frames normaly rust out if they are stock. also the frame right behind the rear shakles (right under the bumper). other than that i love my jeep and show ya few pics... for a rust free model these normaly run around between 4k up to around 8k depending on what is done to it and how low of miles

 

 

now for the tj

the made from '97 to '05. round heah lights came back. coil spring front, leaf spring rear. they say its a more comfy ride but i didn't notice a difference. they also came with the same motors as the yj and again ill say go with the 4.0. i forgot to say this earlier but the 4.0 and the 2.5 get right around the same gas milage. you cant expect much from a brick on wheels. as for rust......i do believe the same spots on the tub but i think they solved the windshield frame issues. these run about the same as the yj in price. both can be had for cheaper but you have to find the right deal

 

hate to cut it short but i have to go to work

 

if you have any questoins about newer models just ask......im an avid jeeper and i can give you more info.....

Edited February 19, 2009 by squeak003

[Citizen Bob 2]

I got my 1st Jeep ('93 YJ) about 4 years ago after driving pickups my whole life (I'm 49). When asked how I like the Jeep, I answer, "The only problem I have with it is that I didn't get one sooner in life!"

 

I see you are in NY, so am I (Town of Marcy, Oneida Co.). If you buy used, be sure to get a Southern car. Jeeps die fast in NY from rust.

[David Mark 2,452]

I have read your posts.

I think this is what you are looking for.

Edited February 19, 2009 by DaveM

[zakmatthews 14]

I have read your posts.

I think this is what you are looking for.

 

Here: Army Jeeps

[RalphXL 9]

Get the 4.0 for sure. The one in my Grand Cherokee has 299 thousand miles on it. Still runs good and uses no oil.

 

RalphXL

[janusthephoenix 24]

Let me guess? Sudden inspiration from Argentina?

[hallboss 1]

I wheel a long armed XJ (cherokee), but four of the rigs I wheel with are TJ's. They are good, I like the cherokee's for the room, other than that I would have got a TJ.

 

The TJ is 97 or newer.

Advantages-

Great four link suspension front and rear, that works great and is easily upgraded to a long arm.

 

Great ride

 

The 4.0 has great power and reliablity.

 

Parts are everywhere and cheap.

 

Disadvantages-

For me there is not enough room in the back.

 

In 97' only there were some reports of oiling problems on the bottom end. I've only seen it once.

 

Until 2003, the steering boxes were weak and when warrantee work was performed, they would update the box to a 03 or newer.

 

Most non-Rubicons have a Dana 30 front diff and Dana 35 rear. If you plan on wheeling it, with tires larger that 31" the you will break the dana 35. Either look for a rubicon model, an "X" model or a TJ with a offset square type rear diff cover (Kind of like a diamond shape almost), that is a Dana 44. If the cover is round, then it is a Dana 35.

 

If you are not going to wheel it, disregard my "disadvantages" the Dana 35 is fine. The only advantages IN MY OPINION of an older YJ Wrangler over a TJ is the YJ is cheaper and cheaper to lift. They both get about 15-17mpg.

 

If you decide on the older YJ, just make sure it is fuel injected.

 

Hope this helps you out some.

Darin

[hallboss 1]

the made from '97 to '05. round heah lights came back. coil spring front, leaf spring rear.

The TJ has rear coils and a four bar trailing design. I think you might have confused it with the XJ Cherokee, which is coiled in the front and leaves in the rear.

[TR Young 175]

They kick ass for summertime fun! STAY AWAY FROM THE 4 CYL ENGINES! Everyone I know that bought a 4 cyl end up kicking themselves.

[22_Shooter 1,560]

Thanks for all the info!

 

After reading this, and doing a little research, I think I need to do some more research. I wasn't aware of all the different variations Wranglers came in. But if I do spend the dough on a Jeep, I better know what I'm getting into, as it will be my (only) daily driver, as opposed to just buying it for fun and off roading.

 

Thanks again fellas.

[hallboss 1]

22,

If all you want is to go out and drive it and don't care about lifts and all that stuff, just get a 92 (I think) or newer. I think that was the cutoff year for fuel injection. The only noticable difference body wise is the square headlights on the YJ. Other than that, like I said ealier the suspension is different, but as a driver I don't think you'll notice a difference.

 

Just my .02.

[scarbrough68289 76]

Had a 93 Jeep Wrangler as my first vehicle. I loved that thing! I miss it. I gave it to my brother when he got out of the Marines. I think he still has it. Needs a lot of work but the thing just won't die. Was black on black with 33 in tires, hardtop. Easy to work on compared to my Lincoln LS. Maybe I'll get it back. I like the new 4 doors though. Mine definately needed more room. Got it when I was 18 and many of my early conquest happened in the cramped back seat of that Jeep.

[squeak003 0]

Most non-Rubicons have a Dana 30 front diff and Dana 35 rear. If you plan on wheeling it, with tires larger that 31" the you will break the dana 35. Either look for a rubicon model, an "X" model or a TJ with a offset square type rear diff cover (Kind of like a diamond shape almost), that is a Dana 44. If the cover is round, then it is a Dana 35.

 

i disagree with you on the 35 not being able to hold up to anything more than a 31" tire. a lot of guys here in michigan are running 33" with stock d-35s and some are running up to a 35" and not breaking.

 

another thing on the yj's the front axle disconect is vaccum powered and tend to fail. but its an easy fix.

 

the made from '97 to '05. round heah lights came back. coil spring front, leaf spring rear.

The TJ has rear coils and a four bar trailing design. I think you might have confused it with the XJ Cherokee, which is coiled in the front and leaves in the rear.

 

yeah my bad....for some reason i was thinking of the ckerokee on that part

 

on another note the 4 door jk's are nice but if down the road you want to put in an after market roll cage the b-pillar becomes a problem

[hallboss 1]

Most non-Rubicons have a Dana 30 front diff and Dana 35 rear. If you plan on wheeling it, with tires larger that 31" the you will break the dana 35. Either look for a rubicon model, an "X" model or a TJ with a offset square type rear diff cover (Kind of like a diamond shape almost), that is a Dana 44. If the cover is round, then it is a Dana 35.

 

i disagree with you on the 35 not being able to hold up to anything more than a 31" tire. a lot of guys here in michigan are running 33" with stock d-35s and some are running up to a 35" and not breaking.

 

 

I should not have posted that as fact, only as experience, sorry. What I should have said is mine with 33's broke on the first trip. In my other expereiences on runs with my club and others, we see at least one broken 35 per trip. Guys with Ford 8.8 like mine or 44's don't break as frequently.

 

In defense of the 35, we wheel in places like Ducey Irshim, Rubicon, Red Rock and places like that. Fully locked, long arm rigs are common and they get abused pretty bad. For moderate wheeling, the 35 is probably fine, but I don't trust them.

 

No one should just take anyone's word for it though. Get on this site, NAXJA (North American XJ Association) and search Dana 35 for more information. Even if you don't have an XJ, there is a bunch of great guys on that site.

 

Darin (Nuke Proof) on NAXJA

[renegadebuck 16]

I have an 89 Cherokee 2 door with a fuel injected 4.0 and its damn near bulletproof!

[hallboss 1]

I have an 89 Cherokee 2 door with a fuel injected 4.0 and its damn near bulletproof!

Show you mine if you show me yours

[Sly 233]

Never had a wrangler, but my 2000 cherokee sport is a great little ride. 130K miles. It does'nt have alot of cargo room (3 kid's). but goes where alot wont. 4.0 is a good stout engine, and trans/drivetraine do what they are meant to do. Stock jeep with all terrain tire's. No problem's in the mountain's. FUN!

[22_Shooter 1,560]

22,

If all you want is to go out and drive it and don't care about lifts and all that stuff, just get a 92 (I think) or newer. I think that was the cutoff year for fuel injection.

 

Yeah, that's pretty much what I'm looking to do with it. Daily driver + some casual mud fun. Nothing too serious.

[hallboss 1]

Then any model would be fine, just make sure it is a 4.0 fuelie. Just a point of consideration though, I used to hate XJ's, but I found mine for $400 and couldn't pass it up. Now I love the thing, of course only after about 300 hours of labor and "some loose pocket change."

[Vultite 57]

whats about the best gas mileage you can get from the 4.0?

[hallboss 1]

About 17-19mpg on a renix era. If it's tuned right with stock tires and a five speed.

[atakacorp 147]

Lebanon 2006

[jeffjeeptj 0]

I've got a 2002. A Dana 44 rear IS stronger than a Dana 35, both will work. I suggest a 2003 or newer. 2004? and up had a 6 speed. There were a lot of "little" and "medium" changes from 2002 to 2003. The unititiated will not see them, but some of the changes are :Front seats and brackets; rear seat tip release; inside molding around windshield; vents in tailgate; no vents on hardtop; outside mirrors; center stop light; location of wiring harness; radio fitment; "accessory" panel on dash has power outlet as well as ignition controlled lighter; availability of inside mirror temperature; shape of electrical connector for hardtop; available rear disc brakes; evaprative emission system (seems simpler); soft top cloth; location of side window zipper pieces; and probably some more. These may not seem like much, but can affect Jeep life if modding. Jeeps are fairly simple and unscrew and go back together fairly easily. There are MANY aftermarket parts. Jeep is an acronym, Just Empty Every Pocket. I love mine, but if I had known the differences, I would have bought a 2003. I love my Saiga too!

HTH

[Diesel42 7]

Not what you asked... but, I can't resist.

 

What I have is a 1981 Toyota BJ42. Diesel, 3800 pounds, all steel, no computer anywhere, and no "special" tools required.

BTW, I'm the vice president of the Toyota Land Cruiser Association. We have 3000 cruiserheads across the US and Canada.

And no... it's NOT for sale.

;-)

Happy Trails! N

[squeak003 0]

im also part of a 4x4 forum called Great Lakes 4x4. its the largest offroad forum in the midwest. check it out. i would say prolly 80% of them drive jeeps.

 

www.greatlakes4x4.com

[SCBOWLES 0]

avoid 4 cyl engines they ddn't hold up as well as the 6cyl 4.0L. also avoid 5 speed transmissions with internal slave cylinders. for the clutch.

[G O B 3,516]

I'm doing an XJ for my spring/summer project. Got this for free, hope to keep the $$$$ down to something reasonable.

 

PIX won't load, but no biggie, it's a blue Cherokee Pioneer with DI 6. good X-fer case (has on road 4X4 position). I have a new radiator an just about the whole cooling system. If you are going to run a Jeep, and it is one of the older ones with the plastic cooling resavor -get a new one! Next up new brakes including stainless hard lines. From experience I can attest that it is a BITCH to crawl under and find the leaky hard line, break it off and fold the end over and beat it leak tight between 2 rocks so it will seal tight enough to get home on the front brakes using the last beer for fluid!