can mig welding be used?

[yugritin 1]

my question is why is tig used vs. mig? I have access to a mig welder and well i was just wondering if that can work?

Edited April 29, 2009 by yugritin

[Neo31rex31 0]

My guess is that TIG would be easier to work with (at least i think it is), but as far as the tech aspects of why its preferred for filling in holes, no idea.

[mollysman420 19]

Mig, Tig, Metal gets hot filler gets added grind excess paint no difference!!

[BobAsh 582]

Lots of guys use Mig.

 

It's harder to control your heat though, so be careful you don't overheat the receiver...that's all.

[chupa 34]

IMO, Tig is easier to control and if you don't like what you see you can always go over it again without the filler rod. Once you get the hang of it.

[kingjoey 5]

Lots of guys use Mig.

 

It's harder to control your heat though, so be careful you don't overheat the receiver...that's all.

 

 

Exactly. TIG lets you precisely control the amount of heat and filler applied. MIG isn't made for doing precise welding work, its a production tool that was designed to allow welders to spend more time welding as opposed to stick which required replacing the electrodes frequently. You can do the weld with MIG, but as Bob said, be careful to not overheat it. Be sure to spray the rest of the gun down with anti-spatter spray so that any pops or other loose bits won't stick to the gun or leave pock marks.

[yugritin 1]

right now i just have those imitation rivets where the old FCG pins were and well im picky and like my stuff right but also like doin it myself its so damn fun workin with these weapons. ive done my 12 my 308 and the next thing is gonna be a saiga .223 in all wood furniture. thanks for all the info guys by the way what would a small tig machine run me?

Edited April 29, 2009 by yugritin

[Deussne 38]

I used MIG to weld HK sights on the gas block. I had it on the lowest heat setting I had, and I think I distorted the tube enought where the puck will not fit in there easy now. I have to tap it in and force it past the part that distorted.

Lesson learned be carefull not to overheat, my problem is fixable though, all I got to do is use some light sanding on the inside to open up the tube.

[BobAsh 582]

Your best bet is a used TIG machine, so look around your area and craigslist.

 

There's a steeper learning curve with TIG; it's harder to do. Ideally you have a friend that TIGs that can help you find the right machine and also get your tecnique launched.

[BobAsh 582]

Be sure to spray the rest of the gun down with anti-spatter spray so that any pops or other loose bits won't stick to the gun or leave pock marks.

 

This is a great point. Also you can use a carbon block (available at welding supply) behind the hole to keep the puddle in place. I've also seen brass used, but it's not as good as carbon since it draws heat from the weld area.

[yugritin 1]

Your best bet is a used TIG machine, so look around your area and craigslist.

 

There's a steeper learning curve with TIG; it's harder to do. Ideally you have a friend that TIGs that can help you find the right machine and also get your tecnique launched.

yeah i got a guy i work with willing to teach. the problem comes in at the part of bringing a gun(even dismantled)in to work. ive done mig welding before,not alot,and never on anythng this thin though. what would be the ideal setting for mig since the receiver is so thin?

Edited April 29, 2009 by yugritin

[BobAsh 582]

Depends on the machine. You'll have to experiment a little on a scrap piece the same thickness.

[yugritin 1]

Depends on the machine. You'll have to experiment a little on a scrap piece the same thickness.

try to find that sizzlin bacon sound right

[csspecs 1,987]

I've welded with both... I suck with the TIG so I used Mig, you can cover the gun in wet rags to help keep it cool but even still things can go bad.

 

Just be sure to use a copper backer to keep the wire or slag from going into the receiver... Pre 1981 pennys seem to have enough copper not burn. (I save my pre 81 pennys because they are worth more in metal then face value)

 

Most of mine just have the little plastic rivet things from home depot. Not perfect but my S-12 sees a lot of hard use hunting swamps so I only see that it scratches a slightly different color.

Edited April 29, 2009 by csspecs

[yugritin 1]

I've welded with both... I suck with the TIG so I used Mig, you can cover the gun in wet rags to help keep it cool but even still things can go bad.

 

Just be sure to use a copper backer to keep the wire or slag from going into the receiver... Pre 1981 pennys seem to have enough copper not burn. (I save my pre 81 pennys because they are worth more in metal then face value)

 

Most of mine just have the little plastic rivet things from home depot. Not perfect but my S-12 sees a lot of hard use hunting swamps so I only see that it scratches a slightly different color.

it works and i should probably leave well enough alone at least thats what my wife tells me all the time

Edited April 29, 2009 by yugritin

[banshee 69]

it all depends on the skill of the person welding it..

[rockmup 12]

Depends on the machine. You'll have to experiment a little on a scrap piece the same thickness.

try to find that sizzlin bacon sound right

 

 

if you hear that you pulled the trigger way to long, lol

[wash 0]

If you're a little better than OK with TIG, you can fill holes in 18 guage sheet metal (steel, you have to be awesome to do that in aluminum).

 

Any time you fill holes in sheet metal, warping is going to be a problem. TIG or MIG, it doesn't matter. Only add a little at a time and let it cool frequently.

 

TIG will look nicer before you grind it flush. MIG will look just as nice after grinding.

 

I'm a bit of a welding snob so I would say go with TIG just because.

 

The only time I grab a MIG is when I have nothing else or I need to lay down a lot of metal and I don't care what it looks like.

[dcmdon 0]

tig usually produces a better weld. I have a friend who is a master machinist at Prat & Whitney. He's a welding snob like wash. But boy can he weld.

 

The truth here is that your weld is not structural. Its also not visible. All you need to make sure you do is not screw up the rest of the receiver by warping it or blowing a hole in it.

 

I'd say this is definitely not the approprate place to learn how to weld. Not that the task is difficult, rather that the consequences of a screw up are expensive. However, if you really want to give it a shot, I'd suggest you practice by buying some mild steel of the same thickness as the receiver, and drilling a hole the same diameter as that you will need to fill.

 

Then practice from there.

 

When you've got it, you've got it.

 

The finished product's appearance will depend more on how good a job you do grinding, filling, and finishing than how good your welding it.

 

Don

Edited April 30, 2009 by dcmdon

[yakdung 2,926]

Would anyone have any suggestions on what brand of TIG welder for the hobbist / homeowner?

Miller, Lincoln ? Looking for an 80% solution for most items around the homestead.

 

Thanks,

Yakdung

[Wotan1105 7]

The Miller Dynasty is awesome. We purchased one, plugs into regular outlet. Went by the local Airgas store and got a sweet deal.

[SOPMOD 254]

You'll need to cover up everything that you don't want "splattered" and then a lot of time grinding/milling the excess off but I've done it and it turned out alright but I worry about the heat treat.One of my favorite things about Saigas vs other AKs is the hard assed rivets and heat treatment and welding might anneal that out of the rear of the receiver.

 

Oh,I backed my holes with a piece of bronze to keep it from penetrating and making a mess inside the receiver by the way

Edited April 30, 2009 by SOPMOD