Coal_forge 15 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 I will post results when it dries. I am using brush on Rustoleum brand. I have always had good luck with rusto brand products (I did a roll on paint job on a car with rusto). The reciever is drying with its 3rd coat and I will have pics tomorrow. Reasons I wanted truck bed liner. -I didn't feel like ordering anything online -It was already sitting in the garage -I want something that would stick to bare metal and paint -I want a rough surface -I want something tough -I wanted something now so I could shoot on sunday I will paint it over with a camo pattern later. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vbrtrmn 167 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 What'd you use to strip it? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 brake parts cleaner works pretty good... Have you taken into consideration the extra thickness of the bedliner could make putting the saftey on harder? Always good to see someone fire up the welder! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hobbyshooter 59 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 Cool idea and I look forward to seeing the finalized product. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vitamink 90 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 that's pretty neat i'll be interested to see how it turns out. I thought about taking mine down to the local truck bed place and having them do it but i didn't want to be the first. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nsa400 11 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Share Posted December 17, 2009 I used truck bed liner on my s-12,it turned out great. Im doing new mods to it now. I had to strip it down again, and used Klean strip stripper from home depot.It took several applications.It had several coats of paint under the liner. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) I used a wire brush to clean it up before welding (I do not use sand paper before welding because I do not want the grit to contaminate the weld). I didn't strip the rest of the paint off, but if I was going to I would use a wire wheel on a hand drill. I have scrubbed more flanges on jet engines and have cleaned out an entire car of its sound dedening with wire wheels and brushes. They are the second best thing for mechanicaly removing paint. See My old car (RIP). All with wire brush and painted with rusto. I ain't need no safety lever! I thought about the safety lever issue when I was doing it and forgot about it until know. It is hardend but not full cured yet. I just put it on and let it scrape its grove into the finish. It felt good to weld again, I haven't welded in a few months(since I got done with those classes [my major in college]) The finish is glossy and real uneven. Now to decide on the camo pattern. I am thinking of doing useless camo, maybe a digital with red or blue with grey white and black. It is a zombie gun so.... ... I already have my 39 in useful camo (rusto btw) Sorry for so much for rusto... Edited December 18, 2009 by Coal_forge 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 This thread has it all now... I have seen the toe pic! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) This thread has it all now... I have seen the toe pic! and the sweet vent on the roof of a Hyundai! you shoulda put a sweet dorcel fin up top since "Tiburon means shark"! lol OP; did you strain out all the 'turds' from the bedliner and just use the broth? i am curious to see this, i have some herculiner out in the garage left over from my Jeep project. Edited December 18, 2009 by Mullet Man 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 Mine didn't have any "turds" in it. The finish is kinda ugly since I layed it on thick.... I am sure if you wanted to make It smooth you could thin it out with some acetone or what ever thinner the stuff uses. So far it seems good. I did rush the drying proceedure with a heat gun so I could put three layers on bring it inside without inadvertanly lining random parts of the house. Another thought is chalk board paint, I remember seeing a car painted with it. They rolled it on and then sanded smooth that way they could write on it without scratching it. Roof vent and silver paint was out of necessity, the car had no ac (by choice ). The vent was a side vent for semi trucks. I miss that car and hobby so much. My car had a stroke (sludge killed the HLAs and bearing) so I put her down Didn't have the time to fix her or a place to keep her, and if I couldn't have her nobody could. She met my gun collection. Anyways pics later today when I wake up (I do not have digi cam). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 I told y'all it is ugly and glossy. I will get around tomorrow with the camo paint. I have slave labor tonight. I only did the reciever the cover will not be done yet because I will be doing some welding on it (hk sights). The can says 24 hours for cure time and it is almost that time. My rule of thumb for cure time is when it doesn't smell anymore. So with my logic I have no clue when it will be done curing. It seems pretty tough, the test of time will show how it fares. The gun ahs not bolt in it, it is safe. Also, it is 922r legal. The carpet photos are with flash. The bathroom sink are without flash. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted December 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) Holy double tap! Over all I belive it will be a good base coat. It looks better in person. Edited December 18, 2009 by Coal_forge 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nsa400 11 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 I forgo to say I used the spray on truck bed liner from autozone. The texture on the gun was nice and bumpy like scateboard tape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Mark 2,452 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 Hey Coal, I like that .308! What stock is that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted December 18, 2009 Report Share Posted December 18, 2009 (edited) Hey Coal, I like that S-12! What stock is that? Looks like a Polish wire side folder. Edited December 18, 2009 by Paulyski Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullturkey 2 Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 I am new to this forum but not to guns and finishes. I have used Aluma HYDE II, Brownells bake on finishes, Rust-o-leum spray cans ( their spray on textured black is amazing but not durable to solvent cleaning) I am a professional industrial/commercial painter and I have used a product that is easy to use, holds up to solvents, acid and just about anything you want to throw at it and is inexpensive when you consider how many firearms you can coat with it. If you have a Sherwin Williams store available to you check out a product called Macropoxy. It is designed for the industrial market. Catwalks/ gratings/ machinery that is exposed to harsh enviorments. It can be had in black or tinted to many colors, is two part, a kit consists of 1 gallon part A 1 gallon part B. It has to be thinned about 30% with their proprietory solvent. I buy the little spray bottle with replacable cartridge and can finish a but-load of guns with a minimum of material depleted from the 2 gal total kit. I wil try to figure out how to post pictures after santa brings me a camera for Christmas to show how good this finish looks. The less you thin it the more texture you get and vice versa. Total cost for the thinner and Macropoxy is about 60 bucks, well worth it considering what you get. I carry a Sig P226 police trade in that I refinished a year ago that only shows slight holster wear with daily presentation. PS The paint is self priming, 1 step finishing. Simplicity can be a beautiful thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John_pro2a 3 Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 What US parts did you use for 922r? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 (edited) The .308? If it is the s12 then it is a Romanian wire folding stock, and if it the 7.62x39 then it was a laminated one (I belive a romak) I found at the gun show that I shaved down heavly on a sanding drum to lower weight and make it more comfortable for my south paw shootin' style. 922r parts on s12 US pistol grip US FCG US Gas piston US Mags Speaking of 922r I need one more part so I run good mags on the 39. I guess I will shoot the 39 this weekend without a hand guard. Edited December 19, 2009 by Coal_forge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 121 Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Sorry to be o/t but what parts did you change on the 39...not including the handguard?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coal_forge 15 Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 (edited) Sorry to be o/t but what parts did you change on the 39...not including the handguard?? 922r Gas piston FCG Foreign Butt stock added an rpk muzzle brake (i do have a US made one but it sucks) I have an AK47 utg quad rail on the front that I will be getting rid of. I use US mags right now, but if I switch the muzzle brake I can use foreign mags. I rather not use a hand guard. I may just make a free floating hand guard tomorrow. I am off till tuesday so. I like to be a law abiding citizen, even though I belive 922r is ethnic clensing for guns. Edited December 19, 2009 by Coal_forge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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