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Hey have any of you guys had much experience with those remote entry and pre-start devices you install on cars to control them from a distance? We bought Racegal a new (pre-owned) car and found that it has one installed, but we have no remote for it. I see that some are controlled by cell phones and even land lines, and can be operated from anywhere. This one I believe is causing some issues with the car not starting sometimes.... like today of course since we were trying to take the damn thing to DMV to get the tag and registration transferred.... :killer:

post-1293-0-53829500-1307569257_thumb.jpg

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Hey have any of you guys had much experience with those remote entry and pre-start devices you install on cars to control them from a distance? We bought Racegal a new (pre-owned) car and found that it has one installed, but we have no remote for it. I see that some are controlled by cell phones and even land lines, and can be operated from anywhere. This one I believe is causing some issues with the car not starting sometimes.... like today of course since we were trying to take the damn thing to DMV to get the tag and registration transferred.... :killer:

 

 

I have had one in the last several cars I've owned....never installed one though

 

There should be a toggle switch somewhere under the dash to deactivate it.

 

If you think it still works and want a remote.....just plug the model # into Yahoo and you can have a set for prob less that $20

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I have one in my Cadi. After about a year and a half both controls stopped working and I have not taken the time to get a new one. I had problems with it sometimes fooling my car to think it had an attempted theft. It was nice in the winter here in WV, but I have not missed it much.

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Awwww... MAN!!!!

 

And here I thought this topic was going to be on the subject of making things go BOOM from a long ways off with a button in your hand of some kind!!! :(

 

 

Cant help ya on the REAL topic at hand, though... sorry bro.

 

:smoke:

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Awwww... MAN!!!!

 

And here I thought this topic was going to be on the subject of making things go BOOM from a long ways off with a button in your hand of some kind!!! :(

 

 

Cant help ya on the REAL topic at hand, though... sorry bro.

 

:smoke:

 

My ears and eyes perked up when I first saw the title myself :rolleyes:

Thought Cobra was gonna roll out the multi window, unmanned, Saiga lineup :killer:

Edited by Saiga Power
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Awwww... MAN!!!!

 

And here I thought this topic was going to be on the subject of making things go BOOM from a long ways off with a button in your hand of some kind!!! :(

 

 

Cant help ya on the REAL topic at hand, though... sorry bro.

 

:smoke:

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Hey have any of you guys had much experience with those remote entry and pre-start devices you install on cars to control them from a distance? We bought Racegal a new (pre-owned) car and found that it has one installed, but we have no remote for it. I see that some are controlled by cell phones and even land lines, and can be operated from anywhere. This one I believe is causing some issues with the car not starting sometimes.... like today of course since we were trying to take the damn thing to DMV to get the tag and registration transferred.... :killer:

 

This is really bothering me. I love this car and it's done well until now. Figuring I prolly need to just get ride of remote stuff altogether.

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Hey have any of you guys had much experience with those remote entry and pre-start devices you install on cars to control them from a distance? We bought Racegal a new (pre-owned) car and found that it has one installed, but we have no remote for it. I see that some are controlled by cell phones and even land lines, and can be operated from anywhere. This one I believe is causing some issues with the car not starting sometimes.... like today of course since we were trying to take the damn thing to DMV to get the tag and registration transferred.... :killer:

 

This is really bothering me. I love this car and it's done well until now. Figuring I prolly need to just get ride of remote stuff altogether.

I would try getting a replacement keychain device. Hopefully it was correctly installed and you can enjoy the feature. It may be that the problem you are experiencing is due to something simple like a corroded battery post. What exactly is the problem you are experiencing? I wish you luck and hope you get to enjoy the new car!

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It's strange actually.... When we went to pick up the car it cranked right up first thing, without even touching the gas pedal. I test drove it and cut it off. Then after paying for it and we were about to drive it home the damn thing wouldn't fire. Of course, the idiot that was selling it had let it run almost out of gas before showing it to us, so the test drive was on fumes... I sent him to the store for some gas so we could drive it home, thinking that was why it wouldn't crank. Put a couple gallons in it and it still wouldn't start. Then somebody said to try turning the key switch on and off three times, only going to the middle accessory setting, to reset the computer or something?? Anyway we tried that and it started. Since bringing it home it has done the same thing several times now. Just suddenly it wouldn't start.... so after the three times working the switch halfway, it would start right up. Weird but almost acceptable for the time being, since I knew what to do.

Well the other day I was working on some things, and turned off the toggle switch under the dash. We had turned it on and off before and hed no problems. Didn't know WTF it was and were wondering. I had planned on tracing the wires and finding out when I had time. So after I turned the switch off it was a no go on starting it again. Tried the key switch thing and still nothing. It turns over but no fire. Then tried everything from turning the switch back on, to removing the module, to taking the neg lead off the battery lead and leaving it for awhile. Nothing fucking works now. Damned car was running great and now it won't start.... argghhhhhh.... :killer:

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It's strange actually.... When we went to pick up the car it cranked right up first thing, without even touching the gas pedal. I test drove it and cut it off. Then after paying for it and we were about to drive it home the damn thing wouldn't fire. Of course, the idiot that was selling it had let it run almost out of gas before showing it to us, so the test drive was on fumes... I sent him to the store for some gas so we could drive it home, thinking that was why it wouldn't crank. Put a couple gallons in it and it still wouldn't start. Then somebody said to try turning the key switch on and off three times, only going to the middle accessory setting, to reset the computer or something?? Anyway we tried that and it started. Since bringing it home it has done the same thing several times now. Just suddenly it wouldn't start.... so after the three times working the switch halfway, it would start right up. Weird but almost acceptable for the time being, since I knew what to do.

Well the other day I was working on some things, and turned off the toggle switch under the dash. We had turned it on and off before and hed no problems. Didn't know WTF it was and were wondering. I had planned on tracing the wires and finding out when I had time. So after I turned the switch off it was a no go on starting it again. Tried the key switch thing and still nothing. It turns over but no fire. Then tried everything from turning the switch back on, to removing the module, to taking the neg lead off the battery lead and leaving it for awhile. Nothing fucking works now. Damned car was running great and now it won't start.... argghhhhhh.... :killer:

 

That sucks...they are so nice when working though...hopefully something simple

 

You prob know by now, but if you disconnect the battery, make sure the toggle switch is "disengaged" before you reconnect your cables to the terminal or the engine will try to turn over when contact is made (potentially dangerous situation)

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What is the brand & model number off the "damned" black box?

 

What kind of car is it & what year?

 

I have fought several retarded alarm / remote systems & whipped every one of their asses. I have a degree in electronics engineering so send me that info & I will see what I can figure out.

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What is the brand & model number off the "damned" black box?

 

What kind of car is it & what year?

 

I have fought several retarded alarm / remote systems & whipped every one of their asses. I have a degree in electronics engineering so send me that info & I will see what I can figure out.

 

Awesome it would be great to be able to find some info about it. So far google hasn't been much help. Seems the name on the module is too much of a common term when it comes to these things. I've talked to three tech support guys from different companies so far and none of them recognized it.

 

The box is a "Pre-Start" and has a model number on it (or serial # ?). That's all the writing I can find on it so far. Next I was planning to take the box apart and see if there's any more info inside.

The car is a ' 94 Honda Prelude Si with the V Tech 2.3L engine.

 

Here are some pics of the box and the car....

post-1293-0-84747100-1307709629_thumb.jpg post-1293-0-48406300-1307709650_thumb.jpg

 

Car looks pretty good for an 18 yr old ricer.... I've got some serious paint restoration work ahead of me but I've got the right stuff to do it. Then it will hopefully all be the same color red again...or at least close til we can afford a new paint job. At least the body and interior is good. Engine runs like a sewing machine and it drives like a racing go cart. Cornering and accelleration are awesome. Gas mileage good too...

:super:

post-1293-0-96244100-1307710620_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-0-22054100-1307710638_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-0-01918100-1307710653_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-0-75191700-1307710669_thumb.jpg

 

Happy Racegal in her new ride....

post-1293-0-13884500-1307709845_thumb.jpg

 

Unfortunately it's stuck in this state until I can get it running again so we can get her title and tags done... <_<

post-1293-0-49956800-1307710797_thumb.jpg

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Cobra, check all the grounds especially any that the remote starter shares with another vehicle ground. Did the car start after a rain ? That is usually a dead give away for a bad ground.

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Something to think about maybe it has nothing to do with the pre-start I had a ECM go bad in one of my trucks and it was doing the samething. If you are turning off the toggle and even removing the pre-start and it is still not starting I would say check ALL the grounds or the ECM. I hate electrical problems it is like chasing a ghost in the machine.

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Thanks guys I'll do that. It sure would be helpful if I could find some info on this system so I could see what all is supposed to be hooked up. Maybe a schematic even...

 

One other thing I forgot to mention. There is another weird thing that coincides with the no start problem when this is occurring.... When you go through all the gears, there is a little round light that comes on beside each gear indicator on the dash board (between the speedo and tach). The light comes on as you are in each gear to give you a visual right there on the instrument panel. When whatever is wrong is going on, the light beside "D4", or the fourth gear in drive, stays on no matter what gear you are in, along with the light coinciding with each as you go through them all. I hope that makes sense...

Well when it resets or whatever, and will start again, that light goes out. Weird....:unsure:

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Oh Lordy.... Racegal just reminded me that the D4 light actually flashes when it's having the problem, it doesn't just stay on.

 

I just did a search for "flashing D4 light" on some Honda forums and came up with this about trouble codes..... shit it could be any number of things wrong..... :chris:

 

Transmission fault codes:

 

Code 1: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve A connector

- Short or open in lock-up contorl solenoid valve A wire

- Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve A

 

Code 2: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve B connector

- Short or open in lock-up control solenoid valve B wire

- Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve B

 

Code 3: D4 light blinks or OFF:

- Disconnected throttle position sensor (TP) connector

- Short or open in TP sensor wire

- Faulty TP sensor

 

Code 4: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector

- Short or open in VSS wire

- Faulty VSS

 

Code 5: D4 light blinks:

- Short in A/T gear position switch wire

- Faulty A/T gear position switch

 

Code 6: D4 light OFF:

- Disconnected A/T gear position switch connector

- Open in A/T gear position switch wire

- Faulty A/T gear position switch

 

Code 7: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected shift control solenoid valve A connector

- Short or open in shift control solenoid valve A wire

- Faulty shift control solenoid valve A

 

Code 8: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected shift control solenoid valve B connector

- Short or open in shift control solenoid valve B wire

- Faulty shift control solenoid valve B

 

Code 9: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected coutershaft speed sensor connector

- Short or open in countershaft speed sensor wire

- Fauly countershaft speed sensor

 

Code 10: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector

- Short or open in ECT sensor wire

- Faulty ECT sensor

 

Code 11: D4 light OFF:

- Trouble in PCM

 

Code 14: D4 light Blinks:

- Trouble in PCM

 

Code 15: D4 light OFF:

- Disconnected mainshaft speed sensor connector

- Short or open in mainshaft speed sensor wire

- Fauly mainshaft speed sensor

 

Code 16: D4 light blinks:

- Disconnected linear solenoid connector

- Short or open in linear solenoid wire

- Faulty linear solenoid

 

Code 17: D4 light OFF:

- Short in kick-down switch wire

- Faulty kick-down switch wire

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Those things always break somehow and leave you stranded, unable to start your vehicle. OR...you come out to your car and find that some how overnight it mysteriously ran out of gas. How could that happen? I just put $65 in the tank yesterday....

 

For a more reliable vehicle, I say take it out.

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Cobra,

 

Try searching for the wires to the remote starter to try to delete the module from the car first to make sure that the problem IS the remote starter and not the car.

 

http://www.modifiedlife.com/1994-honda-prelude-remote-car-start-wire-diagram/

 

The car looks good around your wife but I know it's not your Pony car. I would try to get the car back to stock condition and if you do want a remote starter for it, get an updated one from Crutchfield or similar site. The important thing is to get the car running properly, then accessorize. That "Pre Start Remote Control Starter 011803" looks pretty old and since you don't have the remote for it, then it's more trouble than it's worth. Delete it from the car and get it running. I couldn't seem to find any info on that particular manufacturer.

 

I hope this helps you. I used to install these and many other auto electronics devices. Good luck.

 

nyclu3

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Posting all this just in case we have some Honda people on here who might be familiar with this stuff. Please ignore if you would rather see something about guns. I have plenty of other posts about them...

 

Normal pic of gauges while in park... without the flashing or non ignition problem happening...post-1293-0-89430500-1307807273_thumb.jpg

 

In D4...post-1293-0-04117600-1307807295_thumb.jpg

 

From the manual... post-1293-0-41370400-1307807252_thumb.jpg

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Those things always break somehow and leave you stranded, unable to start your vehicle. OR...you come out to your car and find that some how overnight it mysteriously ran out of gas. How could that happen? I just put $65 in the tank yesterday....

 

For a more reliable vehicle, I say take it out.

 

 

Cobra,

 

Try searching for the wires to the remote starter to try to delete the module from the car first to make sure that the problem IS the remote starter and not the car.

 

http://www.modifiedl...t-wire-diagram/

 

The car looks good around your wife but I know it's not your Pony car. I would try to get the car back to stock condition and if you do want a remote starter for it, get an updated one from Crutchfield or similar site. The important thing is to get the car running properly, then accessorize. That "Pre Start Remote Control Starter 011803" looks pretty old and since you don't have the remote for it, then it's more trouble than it's worth. Delete it from the car and get it running. I couldn't seem to find any info on that particular manufacturer.

 

I hope this helps you. I used to install these and many other auto electronics devices. Good luck.

 

nyclu3

 

Thanks guys, this is definitely what we plan on doing if we can't get it working 100% again. This sucks if it's the auto start system causing it.

I'm beginning to wonder though, if we don't have a more serious problem and the car is trying to tell us about it. That flashing D4 code is even mentioned in the owner's manual and says it indicates tranny trouble. It also has a small leak under there that looks like tranny fluid. Maybe it's low and has some kind of safety switch built in to keep it from driving with low fluid...? Just guessing... I did have the rear of the car raised to do a brake job, just before it did it last time.

 

Lovely.... off to start it and check tranny fluid.....

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OK that is alot of codes but it seem that when it does not want to start it is because the computer is reading the tranny is in gear so I think it has nothing to do with the pre-start and more with the tranny solenoid or netural saftey switch or are they are the same thing on a honda I don't know. I still think ECM or PCM what ever honda calls theirs. I am going out with a few of my buddies tonight one of them works at a toyota dealership I will ask him what he thinks and let you know later tonight or tommorrow depending on how rough of a night it is.:beer:

Edited by SCHULTZE
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Oh man this is friggin crazy..... I get in there today and it starts right up like nothing was ever wrong. This thing has a mind of it's own. :unsure:

Aftermarket alarm's ignition kill switches acting up were a common issue back when I was 16 working as a lot-tech at a Thomason Auto Group used car lot.

 

I would start checking there.

 

Next I would check the ignition kill switch that prevents the car from starting in anything but neutral & park if the car's an auto.

 

Good luck.

 

ETA;

Just read further down the thread...

Looks like you may be on the right path.

 

Although I'd think it's a sensor that prevents the car from starting in any gear other than neutral or park, if you can get a Powertrain Control Module for $40.00 from a salvage yard, that would help you with troubleshooting.

 

My Towncar's tranny started acting up & while all the tranny shops wanted to bend me over for a tranny rebuild, I did a last ditch attempt & replaced the PCM & 30,000 miles later I still haven't had an issue.

 

I Soooooooooo agree with Schultze about chasing the ghost's of shorts & open circuts though.

 

Shitty you all bought the prelude due to her blazer not starting only to run into this.

Edited by PauIy
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I don't think it's the remote start. I think it's your park neutral safety switch.

 

This is a car not starting problem, cars don't engage the starter when the battery is dead,

or the ignition circuit is interrupted.

 

Get an ohmmeter, find that switch, and temporarily short around it You should be able to unplug

the harness and see what it tells you with the trans in park and in drive (car off). You then provide

that condition for it artificially with a jumper.

 

That should diagnose the issue, you could even drive permanently like that, but probably not a good idea.

 

I work in automotive myself.

Edited by kodaline
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Thanks Schultze and Pauly. I'm thinking more and more like it isn't the remote system at all. It's not even all the way hooked up. For all I know it doesn't even have power going to it. The car was working for the last owner and I'm sure he didn't install the device. He probably couldn't even change a tire by himself. Young college kid that didn't know anything about the car except "he loved it because it was fast..." He only sold it so he could get the cash to fly to India and go to a music school there.

I had a Pontiac Grand Am once ('73 model) that was pretty finicky about starting sometimes if the auto trans shifter wasn't locked in just right... maybe the linkage was a little off from the redneck I bought it from slam shifting when he was racing the car. It was a badass machine with a 455 ci engine, 400 Turbo Hydramatic trans and posi trac rear end, with deep well Cragars and G-60's. Kinda dangerous to drive in the rain....lol. I traded my '70 Chevelle Malibu and a my brand new Remy 700 30-06 rifle for that beast. Really fun car to drive with all that power and a cush luxury interior.....ahhhh....fun cars with tons of extra power.....damn I miss it.

 

Anyway... got sidetracked thinking of better times. The Prelude won't start in neutral either when it's being flaky. At least with my Grand Am, I could always crank it in neutral if the park position wasn't hittin. Shifter seems nice and tight on this one so it may just be a safety switch in there. Time to look into the wires and read the shop manual's wiring diagram sections good. Check all grounds I can find also.

 

I suppose removing the whole damned remote system would really be a good idea, to avoid all possible problems it can cause. I just never messed with one of those before and would really like to avoid getting into that spaghetti pile of wires under there if I can help it. That bitch is wired into everything...

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I don't think it's the remote start. I think it's your park neutral safety switch.

 

This is a car not starting problem, cars don't engage the starter when the battery is dead,

or the ignition circuit is interrupted.

 

Get an ohmmeter, find that switch, and temporarily short around it You should be able to unplug

the harness and see what it tells you with the trans in park and in drive (car off). You then provide

that condition for it artificially with a jumper.

 

That should diagnose the issue, you could even drive permanently like that, but probably not a good idea.

 

I work in automotive myself.

 

Was typing and eating and didn't see this post before. That sounds like a great idea. Right along with the current train of thought here. Maybe we're getting somewhere finally.

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Remote starts are almost standard equipment here; they're a cold country "thing." Unless you're really good and conscientious at wiring, let somebody who does it all the time install and repair them. The real hassle is with cars that have "smart" keys with either chips or RFID; you can't get one for my MB-ML without spending an effin' fortune becaus of the RFID key.

 

Anyway, if you're sure it really is the remote, just go to a decent alarm/remote store and get a new one; they're really handy for mama's car and some will even turn on the seat heater if you have that. If mama has a warm butt, she's one Helluva lot easier to get along with. But first be sure that's what it really is. Generally, they either work or they don't, like most electronic stuff.

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