Inebriated 31 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 So I have about 500 rounds of Yugo left, and I figured I would just see how everyone cleans their rifle, since no one seems to do it the same... I usually will just get the hose when I get home (typically a couple hours or so after the range), spray the whole rifle down (barrel, receiver, trigger group, gas tube, muzzle brake, and bolt/bolt carrier) enough until everything is all flushed out. I'll use the air compressor to dry it. Then I'll spray WD40 all over the rifle, trigger group, down the barrel, and gas tube to help get rid of the water, then again use the air compressor. And lastly, I spray some CLP into the trigger group and receiver, gas tube, and use the air compressor again to clear the excess. And I'll clean the barrel as normal after that. If anyone's familiar with Sturmgewehre's method, it's essentially that, but with a hose lol. But about 2000 rounds in, and no issues! So yeah, post how you guys do it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agent Lemon 157 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 (edited) The only corrosive stuff that I shoot is from the Mosin Nagant. To clean it, I first run some regular solvent for copper/carbon. Then, I run a few kettles worth of boiling water through the barrel to dissolve/get rid of corrosive salt residue. Then I just dry it and clean as usual. Before putting it away, I put a mix of ballistol/water through the barrel one more time to make sure that I have all the salt off. Run patches through it to dry it up very well, and spray some CLP into the barrel and call it a day. Oh and I use a bit of Ballistol/water mix to clean the bolt face as well. All the other parts just get cleaned with solvent if needed. Edited May 24, 2012 by Agent Lemon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
themadhatter196 18 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Water is the key to all corrosive ammo. It has the best solvent qualities for the salts found in that ammo. Since the powder is baked onto the surface of the barrel you need to clean with a brush with water instead of your normal solvent. After you have scrubbed the shit out of your barrel only using water you then want to flush with water and then run dry patches until dry. Then clean as you normally would with solvent of choice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 So I have about 500 rounds of Yugo left, and I figured I would just see how everyone cleans their rifle, since no one seems to do it the same... I usually will just get the hose when I get home (typically a couple hours or so after the range), spray the whole rifle down (barrel, receiver, trigger group, gas tube, muzzle brake, and bolt/bolt carrier) enough until everything is all flushed out. I'll use the air compressor to dry it. Then I'll spray WD40 all over the rifle, trigger group, down the barrel, and gas tube to help get rid of the water, then again use the air compressor. And lastly, I spray some CLP into the trigger group and receiver, gas tube, and use the air compressor again to clear the excess. And I'll clean the barrel as normal after that. Sounds like overkill. Especially with the WD40. I've noticed that WD40 gets into the air off of a rifle, and I don't want to breathe the stuff. The air compressor alone will dry out the rifle just fine, especially if you use boiling water; most of the water will evaporate by itself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Garys4598 1,065 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 (edited) I didn't see where you run a brush or at the very least a patch down the barrel? In spite of that, it sounds like your methodology is solid. The only thing I'd recommend (which I do myself) is to have a spray bottle with a mixture of Ballistol and water in it (some old-timers simply use a bottle of Windex with ammonia), and while at the firing range before you pack your rifle up, spray the chamber and bolt area good and let the mixture run-out (while holding the rifle's muzzle down). . . and then stow your rifle for transport. Most folks would likely say that the above is overkill. . . but to each his own. Edited May 24, 2012 by Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patriot 7,197 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 ....I put that shit on everything! http://WWW.BALLISTOL.COM 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SNARF 3 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 Use amonia and water as soon as your done shooting, use about 1/6 mix, if you have nothing else whip out your ding dong and pee on your rifle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stankfinger76 3 Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 +1 on Ballistol . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
themadhatter196 18 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 (edited) You don't need ammonia. While some will swear by windex, it's ammonia concentration is so low that it will do pretty nothing that plain water will do. Janitorial strength ammonia will work but water is cheaper and does the same amount of work. Also water is a hell of a lot cheaper. I also like ballistol but that doesn't do much to get the salts out of the barrel but it is a great overall lubricant/protectant. On another note I don't think your cleaning method is overkill seeing that once I forgot to clean out my mosin's barrel for 3 days and come to find that it is completely rusted to shit. I had to clean it for hours to get the rust out. Edited May 25, 2012 by themadhatter196 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matthew Hopkins 1,065 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 (edited) Water is the key to all corrosive ammo. It has the best solvent qualities for the salts found in that ammo. bingo, that is all you need to flush out the potassium chloride from the barrel, bolt face, and gas system. and it doesn't have to be AQUAFINA, DASANI or other fancy water, just regular ol' tap water. ammonia does nothing, other then give it that cat urine smell to your firearms. Edited May 25, 2012 by Matthew Hopkins Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tatonic 159 Posted May 25, 2012 Report Share Posted May 25, 2012 +1 for pissing on your rifle. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 I run boiling water down the barrel and gas block, follow that up by scrubbing both out with dish soap, then rinse that out with more boiling water. I finish up with a dry patch, then a patch with Breakfree LP. Other parts are scrubbed with dishsoap and hot water, and then oiled. All bare metal surfaces still look like the came out of the box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patriot 7,197 Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 You don't need ammonia. While some will swear by windex, it's ammonia concentration is so low that it will do pretty nothing that plain water will do. Janitorial strength ammonia will work but water is cheaper and does the same amount of work. Also water is a hell of a lot cheaper. I also like ballistol but that NEURALIZES CORROSIVE SALTS but it is a great overall lubricant/protectant. On another note I don't think your cleaning method is overkill seeing that once I forgot to clean out my mosin's barrel for 3 days and come to find that it is completely rusted to shit. I had to clean it for hours to get the rust out. Fixed it for you Source: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22502/Product/SPORTSMAN-S-OIL 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 You can't "neutralize" a salt. A salt is the result of a reaction between a base and an acid. You can only dissolve/remove a salt, which is why hot water works the best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 So after my recent trip to the range, I got caught in traffic for every single leg of the way home... from the range to my friend's place, from his place to another friend's palce, then from there to my house.... three hours in total. No rust, except for a small spot on the very tip of the brake... that wouldn't come off without a little fine steel wool. But otherwise, 330 rounds of Yugo down range and 3 hours in that southern humid heat, and all is well... I admit I was worried, because I never use Yugo at this particular range because it's so far from the house, and I've never really let that stuff sit that long. I'm thinking of bringing some WD-40 to spray down the exterior/bore/gas tube, to make sure I don't get any of that rust in a place that isn't so easy to find. Would that be recommended? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stankfinger76 3 Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 So after my recent trip to the range, I got caught in traffic for every single leg of the way home... from the range to my friend's place, from his place to another friend's palce, then from there to my house.... three hours in total. No rust, except for a small spot on the very tip of the brake... that wouldn't come off without a little fine steel wool. But otherwise, 330 rounds of Yugo down range and 3 hours in that southern humid heat, and all is well... I admit I was worried, because I never use Yugo at this particular range because it's so far from the house, and I've never really let that stuff sit that long. I'm thinking of bringing some WD-40 to spray down the exterior/bore/gas tube, to make sure I don't get any of that rust in a place that isn't so easy to find. Would that be recommended? After a day a the range with my Mosin Nagants, I run a soaked patch of Birchwood Casey No. 77 Muzzle Magic cleaner through it until I get home and am able to clean it. It will prevent the salt from damaging the barrel. I have been shooting my M/N for three years now with this method and no rust has formed in my barrels or chamber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Im not too worried about the bore, its the inside of the receiver and gas tube im most concerned with. Ill check that stuff out though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Im not too worried about the bore, its the inside of the receiver and gas tube im most concerned with. Ill check that stuff out though. The inside of the receiver needs very little attention. I wipe exposed parts with a paper towel, usually not very thoroughly. Once in a blue moon I disassemble the FCG and clean everything. I don't get rust inside the receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
U.S. Pratorean 1,234 Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 You can't "neutralize" a salt. A salt is the result of a reaction between a base and an acid. You can only dissolve/remove a salt, which is why hot water works the best. Nothing else to be really said. Simple chemistry. Myself, hot H20, ballistol 50/50, wipedown, finally 100% ballistol. As some one else stated "I put it on everything"... me too! Windex is like 98% H20 and that is what works not the ammonia plus ammonia has a negative reaction with chrome if that is what lines your barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
themadhatter196 18 Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 You can't "neutralize" a salt. A salt is the result of a reaction between a base and an acid. You can only dissolve/remove a salt, which is why hot water works the best. He's right. Potassium Chloride which is the "salt" we are talking about here cannot be neutralized. It's ph already is a 7 which is neutral. It isn't the acidity or lack of that is causing the corrosion to our barrels it is the hygroscopy of the compound. Meaning it attracts water. It actually isn't the salt causing the damage it's the water! Okay so after knowing this you realize you cannot neutralize it you can only get rid of it and it is extremely soluble in water pretty much on par with normal table salt. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmc235 1 Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 I never hear anyone mention cleaning their mags after using corrosive... Even polymer mags have springs, so should they be cleaned with water as well? On another note... I read of people running home as fast as they can to clean up after firing the stuff... What about all the countless armies using it during countless battles.... WHAT DID THEY DO???? I can't see them stopping every couple of hours to clean their rifles... How did they prevent their rifles from becoming rust buckets? Maybe they had a secret that is overlooked today... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigChongus 765 Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 I never hear anyone mention cleaning their mags after using corrosive... Even polymer mags have springs, so should they be cleaned with water as well? On another note... I read of people running home as fast as they can to clean up after firing the stuff... What about all the countless armies using it during countless battles.... WHAT DID THEY DO???? I can't see them stopping every couple of hours to clean their rifles... How did they prevent their rifles from becoming rust buckets? Maybe they had a secret that is overlooked today... That's why they started chrome lining barrels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Eagle 839 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I never hear anyone mention cleaning their mags after using corrosive... Even polymer mags have springs, so should they be cleaned with water as well? On another note... I read of people running home as fast as they can to clean up after firing the stuff... What about all the countless armies using it during countless battles.... WHAT DID THEY DO???? I can't see them stopping every couple of hours to clean their rifles... How did they prevent their rifles from becoming rust buckets? Maybe they had a secret that is overlooked today... That's why they started chrome lining barrels. Bingo. This is why the Chinese started chroming the chambers/barrels of SKS rifles. Some early Sino-Soviets had not only a chromed barrel, but a chromed gas tube as well(some as in very few because a gas tube can be swapped with minimal fitting). I haven't shot any Yugo M67 out of my Saiga yet, but here's what I'd do with my SKS, which had a strict Yugo diet after I found out I could get 2-4" groups out to 100 yds with Yugo M67, compared to 4-6" groups with Wolf/Tula. When I got done shooting, the receiver, barrel, and gas system got a dousing of plain Windex or a bottle of water and a dry patch followed by a shot of WD40 through the trigger group/bolt. After I got home, I'd strip it down completely, then boil a kettle of water. The entire rifle got a dunking. After it air dried, I hit it with CLP Powderblast and a brush, followed by CLP Breakfree for a good lubing. 2K down the pipe before I sold it, and no rust, even in the home-made flash hider. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I leave just a film of motor oil on the AK's and clean them with Hoppe's #9. They get a wipe with an oil rag and a wet patch every time, and cleaned 'sometimes'. I get no rust. Motor oil is made to keep acids from corroding metal. It also absorbs water and keeps it off of metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Orng1 2 Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Never thought to use motor oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Never thought to use motor oil. Drip. Drip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skiluvr03 24 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I'm so glad I read this thread, I had no idea about salts and all that, since I'm new to AK's. I just got mine and fixing to go shoot it today for the first time. Do you have to do the water trick when you use Tulamo or Wolf brand bullets? I know they say non-corrosive, but I don't know if it really is? Thanks to everyone that makes this forum great by sharing their knowledge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Do you have to do the water trick when you use Tulamo or Wolf brand bullets? I know they say non-corrosive, but I don't know if it really is? No, but it never hurts to run a boresnake or cleaning patch or two down the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JoeAK 337 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 Hoppe's #9 works well for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skiluvr03 24 Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Thanks, I'll clean it like I always clean my guns then. Man, just got back from the range shooting mine for the first time, it rocks!!!! I'm hooked for life!!! I couldn't believe the shot group, once I figured out to slide the rear site forward, LOL My daughter looked at me strangely when I kissed my rifle, LOL Edited: Also, I was glad to see the marks on the expended brass casings too, got all the checkmarks regarding that other thread on 2009 IZ 132 Edited June 20, 2012 by AK Okie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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