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Being the guy who can't leave well enough alone.

 

I decided to put a SI Vortex hider on the 556R but I didn't care for the look of the Vortex with the bulge on the barrel.  So I cut off the bulge and threaded the barrel 14X1L.

 

Removing the bulge made the barrel 14 7/8".  With the Vortex permanently attached it's 17".  Obviously I could have cut another inch off but didn't want to go that short.

 

I threaded the barrel to a depth of 1/2" because the thread depth of the Vortex is just over 1/2"

 

I also crowned the barrel the proper 11 degrees (not shown in the pictures).

 

I got all the tools from CNC Warrior.  Top notch tools at great prices and outstanding service.

 

I am very pleased with the result.

 

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Note:  All work was performed by a licensed gunsmith to keep it legal.

 

Since I don't plan to thread any more barrels I guess I'll sell the threading tools and crowning tool.

Edited by Darth Saigus
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So the 14x1 fit the barrel as is? In other words, you did not have to relieve the muzzle end to begin threading?

Sig just came out with the 556xi Russian but the pistol version won't be available for 6 months or longer and I would like one in the x39 configuration to SBR. They never made a 556R pistol.

I would have cut that down to 12 inches myself but not everyone want to fool with the stamp thing..

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Looks good. Quick question, after you've made your first pass with the thread die, and you've removed it and find that you must cut deeper, what keeps the die from trying to start a whole new set of threads (essentially cutting over the existing ones)? Or does it want to self align into the existing threads and cut deeper? I ask because soon I will be doing the FSB mod on my .308 and cutting threads. Thanks!

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I left the die fully open for the first pass.  A second pass was not necessary.  If I needed to tighten the die for another pass I assumed it would be self centering.

 

The barrel did not need to be reduced for the 14X1 threads.

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Looks good. Quick question, after you've made your first pass with the thread die, and you've removed it and find that you must cut deeper, what keeps the die from trying to start a whole new set of threads (essentially cutting over the existing ones)? Or does it want to self align into the existing threads and cut deeper? I ask because soon I will be doing the FSB mod on my .308 and cutting threads. Thanks!

Generally, if the die thread diameter is within the size of the barrel OD, one pass is all that is necessary as it will cut the threads to the proper depth and once you remove the die it will spin right back on to the threaded barrel just like the flash hider.

This is why after a few turns, you have to back out and remove the bore pilot or it will ruin the die.

Darth, does your mag well have the steel insert and what are your thought on this rifle? Accuracy, etc.

I'm still on the fence.

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Mine is a gen 1 that has been reworked to add the steel insert. 

 

I wrote another post detailing the problems I had with the rifle.  It took some work to get it running but now that it runs I love it. 

 

Everything I've seen about the gen 2 rifles is that they're gtg.  So if you buy one be sure it's a gen 2.  The gen 2 rifles have a fixed folding stock.  The gen 1 rifles have a collapsing folding stock.

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DARTH,

  NICE; CLEAN INSTALL!

 

  GLAD YOU FINALLY GOT THAT THING CHUGGIN' ALONG!

 

  I'VE GOT AN FSC-30 THAT I'M GOING TO PUT ON MINE.

 

  IS THERE A TORQUE SPEC ON THE FLASH HIDER/MUZZLE BRAKE FOR THAT THING?

 

JAG,

  MINE IS A GEN II; AS DARTH SAID, THE MAIN GIVEAWAY IS THE FOLDING, NON-COLLAPSABLE STOCK.

 

  WHEN I WENT TO WAL MART TO PUT MINE ON LAYAWAY, I CARRIED A SMALL MAGNET, AND MADE SURE IT STUCK TO THE INSERT.

 

  I LOVE IT, JUST GO-'HEAD AND DO IT.

 

  CHECK YOUR LOCAL W-MART, THEY MAY HAVE ONE, AND NOT EVEN REALIZE EXACTLY WHAT THEY HAVE, IE, JUST ANOTHER BLACK RIFLE.

 

  I THINK THEY JUST CRANKED-OFF THEIR CHRISTMAS LAYAWAY PLAN TOO.

 

  JESS1344

Edited by JESS1344
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  I'VE GOT AN FSC-30 THAT I'M GOING TO PUT ON MINE.

 

  IS THERE A TORQUE SPEC ON THE FLASH HIDER/MUZZLE BRAKE FOR THAT THING?

Since you're using a device that needs to be timed, you'll use a crush washer and tighten until it's timed.

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  I'VE GOT AN FSC-30 THAT I'M GOING TO PUT ON MINE.

 

  IS THERE A TORQUE SPEC ON THE FLASH HIDER/MUZZLE BRAKE FOR THAT THING?

Since you're using a device that needs to be timed, you'll use a crush washer and tighten until it's timed.

 

That or a lathe and a good understanding of thread pitch.

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That or a lathe and a good understanding of thread pitch.

Yes the "proper" way to thread a barrel is on a lathe. But for those who don't plan to use a can the "ghetto" method works just as well.

 

How come no pics of the finished crown or pin/weld job?

The pic I took of the crown turned out blurred.  All you can see is a white circle.

 

When we did the pin/weld I didn't bring my camera.  The Vortex metal is VERY hard and I had to go to a shop that had the proper bit to drill it.  Then I sacrificed an old drill bit to make the pin.  Oops, I thought the smith used a drill bit but it turns out he had a hardened 1/8 pin.

Edited by Darth Saigus
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JAG,

  MINE IS A GEN II; AS DARTH SAID, THE MAIN GIVEAWAY IS THE FOLDING, NON-COLLAPSABLE STOCK.

 

  WHEN I WENT TO WAL MART TO PUT MINE ON LAYAWAY, I CARRIED A SMALL MAGNET, AND MADE SURE IT STUCK TO THE INSERT.

 

  I LOVE IT, JUST GO-'HEAD AND DO IT.

 

  CHECK YOUR LOCAL W-MART, THEY MAY HAVE ONE, AND NOT EVEN REALIZE EXACTLY WHAT THEY HAVE, IE, JUST ANOTHER BLACK RIFLE.

 

  I THINK THEY JUST CRANKED-OFF THEIR CHRISTMAS LAYAWAY PLAN TOO.

 

  JESS1344

This is what I want but according to SIG it wont be available for 6-8 months. Knowing them it will probably show up next week. LOL.

images_zps17c18ddf.jpg

This is available now but I have only seen a few. I really want to put on a SIG folder and dont really want to pay the extra for the brace.

images1_zpsb8723995.jpg

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That or a lathe and a good understanding of thread pitch.

Yes the "proper" way to thread a barrel is on a lathe. But for those who don't plan to use a can the "ghetto" method works just as well.

 

How come no pics of the finished crown or pin/weld job?

The pic I took of the crown turned out blurred.  All you can see is a white circle.

 

When we did the pin/weld I didn't bring my camera.  The Vortex metal is VERY hard and I had to go to a shop that had the proper bit to drill it.  Then I sacrificed an old drill bit to make the pin.

 

You know, you can actually remove some material from the rear face of the break (face it off) to ensure that the break times correctly without use of crush washers. This can create that "seamless" look that people really appreciate. Though like you said, without a lathe, that's really difficult, but those whom have maybe a buddy with a lathe, can have the break timed to the barrel and save money still threading the barrel themselves. Cause lets face it, removing barrels is a PITA.. no matter who ya are.

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Hello, Darth

 

Have you already sold your tools for this job? If not, what are you asking? I'm interested in picking them up, I would like to be able to do this to my "R" as well. I'd really like to be able to mount a bushing and a suppressor, but I can't figure out how to pin that and stay legal.

 Personally, I'm really impressed with my Sig. Outrageous accuracy.

 

TIA,

 

Guido in Houston

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Everything is sold.

 

As far as mounting a suppressor, I suggest pinning on a flash hider or brake with suppressor mounting capability.

 

The Vortex has the ability to mount a can, although I'm not planning to do so.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that a can must be aligned much more precisely than a brake so if you're planning to use a can it would be better to have the threading done on a lathe.

Edited by Darth Saigus
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