ChileRelleno

I can only attest to Surefire's stick mags, my experience with'em is 100% positive. Drum mag, there is only one, MD Arms, and they are awesome. Any of the site business members are reputable, I can personally vouch for Mississippi Auto Arms, Carolina Shooter Supply, King Armory & MD Arms.

My 19bbl with collapsible measures 37"+, so your going to need to with the 'im3200 44x14'.

I was speaking of a factory tappet in my original post. When you talk about "sloppy fit" define what you mean by that? Like I said earlier, I'm speaking of one (factory) that freely slides back and forth within the gas tube without hanging up as the rifle is tilted back and forth. If that too loose of a tappet or is that normal? Or are they suppose to stay in place only moved by the force of gas within the gas tube upon discharge of a round AND otherwise not heard from. They are supposed to slide freely back/forth within the gas block, you should hear them slide/clink end to end

In every factory Saiga shottie I've handled, the puck slid freely back and forth in the gas block, in a few it has rattled a bit loosely. I've used all three pucks, the OEM, Chaos and KA, and below is a commentary from another thread, which covers my experience with'em. It is now my opinion that whichever puck you use it should do do two things, it should easily pass the threads & slide freely within the block. Also, just my opinion/experience, Do Not use a puck that has to be manipulated past the threads, when heavily fouled it will have to be knocked out of the block, and if it for

That is a asinine & dangerous plan of action, I strongly suggest you rethink it. Once the finger goes to the trigger, the only course of action is to stop the threat, not piss it off. I see your point and this is not the first time I have heard it .... I would hate to blow away some mischievous kid ..... I assure you that once the bean bag is fired I will rack another round, if he doesn't leave Bye Bye ..... I rethink this often and still come up with the same answer Stop then Drop Well, just remember that the bean bag is a 'Less Lethal' round, it has been used with lethal c

That is a asinine & dangerous plan of action, I strongly suggest you rethink it. Once the finger goes to the trigger, the only course of action is to stop the threat, not piss it off.

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic....=7&t=109958

My one and only .22, is my old Marlin Model 60. I bought'er 15-16 years back, have uncountable numbers of rounds thru'er, and she still drives tacks. Last trip to the range a Mockingbird landed atop my target board at 100yrds, birdie took a round in the noggin. Still using the original el'cheapo Tasco 3-9x40 scope that came with it, it was made back when Tasco still translated into 'Highly Under Rated Quality Jap Optics for very few American Dollars'... Too bad Tasco is just cheap junk now.

I used a couple of the tricks suggested in that thread, I managed to get it to where I can manipulate it by hand all the way in/out... Though the last three turns take some effort.

No suggestions? No laughter at my plight? Damn, I'm disappointed in you guys, not even a "Chile's to stupid to unscrew a bolt"... I feel unloved.

I don't know if this qualifies as a negative per se, or just one (my) instance. Use care when removing the tappet when heavily fouled, that is to say, "When it requires being forcibly tapped/knocked out with a rod from the receiver's end. If care is not taken, it has been my experience, that the sharp leading edge of the tappet may in some way damage, bite into, or otherwise adversely contact the threads of the gas block. Do Not let it come Out at a Angle. Let it stew in a good solvent till it moves on its own if possible. This said, I still have KA's tappet in my S12.

EDIT: Oops, was too early in the am, my comprehension sucked.

"I'M IN"

Well... No go! Tried all ya'lls suggestions. Reshaped the head of the screw and then pounded a standard screwdriver in, nope, stripped again, even with heat and penetrating oil. Reshaped the head and then cut a new slot 90' to old, nope stripped out. I figured the top or that screw is soo fatigued now as to be worthless. Reshaped yet again, drilled it out 2/16", got my 'Alden, ProGrab'it set out, burnished the hole, got the Grab'it into it all nice and snug, and tried to back it out. Damn thing shattered and left a good portion of the tip in the fucking screw head. Can't g

Guys, I appreciate the replies/suggestions. Cobra 76 two, thank you very much for your generosity. 5mm x .8 or 10-32... Now I just gotta get this SOB out.

Hand Guard screw, what size is it? I loctited mine in and stripped the head trying to remove it... Even after heating it up Gonna need to replace the lil'bastard. Any suggestions on best removal strategy, drill & easy out?

Call and remind the dumbfuck Senator, that no law has ever stopped a drug dealer/violent criminal from committing their crimes, that there are plenty of current laws addressing the issues which he mentions and that new laws/bans only affect the law abiding citizen who honors them.

Your just getting older and more susceptible to the lil'buggers. Yep... Diet, exercise, hygiene (includes rubbing eyes and such), take your multi-vitamin and... Still get sick and die.

Good trade Wraithmaker.... ummmmm.... Failmaker... Like being propositioned by a skanky bar whore, just say "No!". MDArms MD20 drum, $260. from the manufacturer, and has been 100% foolproof for approx ~260-300 rnds. Promag, I hope it works for ya, way too many negatives on that brand. If ya buy more, try AGP/Surefire. Other nice aftermarket accessories are, Tromix DIY Trigger Guard, Gunfixer Gas Plug, KingArmory gas tappet (puck), Krebs Combat Sights, any good tri/quad rail forearm.

Since the OP can't be bothered. Hogue offers a couple of products for AK 47/74 and such. http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?main_p...facturers_id=21

Tony, I'll take at least one, likely two... I'm a packrat when it comes to spare parts

Dust cover on the Bolt Carrier? I'm going to suppose that you mean the small dust/cover plate on the Recoil Spring Assembly, which is not sold separately, you need to buy the whole unit. Tantal at avtomats-in-action, sometimes has them... Another option would be to fabricate one and then tack it on. Unless, by chance you meant the actual receiver cover?... Tantal has those in stock.

The bolt carrier doesn't need to be removed, only the top cover and recoil spring assembly. Patience is needed? Align the bolt properly, drop carrier in, push down & slide forward... Can't get any easier.

IMO, a complete bolt assembly is a good spare to keep on hand, I have one.It has several key parts, i.e. extractor, extractor spring, firing pin (striker/pin), firing pin spring, bolt head/body and associated pins. I keep or plan on acquiring, FCG, main spring, recoil spring assembly, top cover, axis pins and a bolt carrier. If prices drop below $400. for the S12, I'll likely buy another just for backup/parts.

I rather like my plain'ol SAW grip.