gunfun

I think part of the appeal of an AR10 is the wide range of calibers based on the 308 case. .358 YETI looks fun. I can't say I need it, but every time I see it, I think. Neat! I want one. Once you have a lower, adding new calibers is easy. Given that you can build one for $700 day in day out now, I can see the appeal. I would rather hunt with a lightweight AR10 variant than with some boring Remington 700. OP you might check out bear creek arsenal, and right to bear llc. They tend to have killer deals on parts. I have heard consistently good feedback about the performance of BCA bar

I made this video and review for another website, but it occurs to me that a few of the people here might appreciate it. I've been doing this method since about 2013 and it works really well: This is by far the fastest most reliable way I have tried to get the right number of pellets in the right place.

So run it on setting #2. It isn't about the type of shot, it is about the energy level of the shell. If it won't run it on the restricted setting, open the restriction up.

They are roughly the 4th company to try something like this. I bet it is still picky about which 2.75 shells it takes.

A while back I helped a guy tech a problem on the other forum, and we conclusively determined that the bad factor was out of spec Federal Flite control LE 9 pellet OOB. i.e. the shells most people would call most appropriate for "serious use". It's been a couple years at least, but IIRC, both the head diameter, the rim thickness and the rim diameter were significantly off from the largest of any fired or unfired hulls I could find of any brand. And before someone asks what I mean by "significantly off" - I don't remember, but I think it was pushing 1/16" of an inch larger than the larges

This will be worth following for sure! If you haven't done so, this would probably be a good time to mic various dimensions of parts that take pressure or impact to be able to measure any deformation. It might be worth putting a couple punch marks or scribes in to measure from on some of the wonkier shapes on the bolt head, and trunion.

Ditto. My wife's work week is currently offset. So I tend to do half days on mondays or tuesdays (her weekend) and make up for it on saturday afternoon. A weekday with her is a lot more fun than a weekend. When I was in high school, my stepmother was an avid skiier with thursdays off. I would do my schoolwork ahead and go ski with her on a regular basis, not having to share the hill or waste time waiting in line at all. And they were discounted. It made us into snow snobs. Midweek weekends work great for play. Not so much for playing with friends though.

Sounds great. I would love a break from being a small business owner. It's been very tempting lately to be an employee with fixed paycheck and fixed hours/ hours off. My wife would feel a lot better about that too.

Glad to help. I think the FGM hull is the best plastic, but the "mid" brass might have a little more drag than the REM STS/Nitro style low brass. I think those might be what I would use for your project. Cut them down. IIRC those survive the most loadings for the people inclined to waste their time wearing out shells. That would mean that they are probably also most resistant to black powder scorching, and therefore most likely to save you trimming operations. Plus the gold color of the STS flavor kinda looks like the traditional brass, so that fits your theme a little better.

Haven't done it personally, but read up on it. I assume SASS? I've heard the same is true for the original winchester 1895 lever action shotguns. They want hulls that are a shade short. You are giving up the pattern benefits of the wad, unless you aren't going full short. That's my suggestion. There is actual load data for 2 5/8" British shotshells. i.e. these https://www.aerostaroutdoors /product/f2-subsound-12-gauge-1oz-7-5shot-1082fps-250-rounds/ (Link broken on purpose, just in case a forum vendor sells something similar.) Also, if you base your load off of

Looks like that's .822 ounces 7/8 is 0.875, so I think they ended up at 9 pellets for two reasons. One is that #1 buck stacks in layers of 3 in a 20 ga hull, and 9 is the multiple that comes in just under 7/8 oz. So that's just over 3 dram equivalent. Pretty hot for a 20 ga round.

I forget how much each #1 buck pellet weighs, but something tells me that 9 of them probably come out to 1 oz... They are ~40 grains each. Of course that's assuming they are the actual size as labeled. Remington shot is notorious for being smaller than what it says on the tin.

So, compare the ammo that you've bought and put it on that chart. Then only buy ammo that falls to the right of the weakest shells which would function 100%.

Fastang, you need to look at both the velocity and the weight. Just velocity isn't enough. Particularly since 20 ga slugs can get very light. A lot of them are saboted or are lighter slugs designed to get a flatter trajectory for East coast deer hunting zones which don't allow rifles. There's a good chance a lot of them are low overall energy. I don't know the function factor for the S20, but you are going to need to know both of those to get to the muzzle engergy / dram equivalent number for your gun. Basically you will need to learn the minimum DR eq that your gun runs at and buy

Reloading is worthwhile, but I think you are incorrect about brass hulls being the ticket. As a general rule, the federal gold medal hulls are really good, as are the Remngton STS. STS are the least hassle, and have the advantage that gun club hulls are nearly as good and load to the same data and are everywhere for free. High brass is more of a failure point than a benefit, and has nothing to do with the pressure limits of the hull if it is any modern design. The Federal Gold metal are the highest pressure rated hulls, with the STS close second - at least in 12 ga. The STS is low br

I'm here a few times a week. However, there aren't always new projects or DIY things that snag my interest. Lately, I spend more time collaborating on youtube and through the reloader's network. I've also kinda been looking at patreon for keeping connected with people. You can follow people even without crossing the paywall. Mostly, I want the ability to filter and prioritize. I want to help new people, but also tune out the personal squabbles and inevitable political tinfoil, and general lechery that seems to accumulate around gun stuff. The ratio here has gotten slim, but there are stil

Maybe the thing for them to do is sell it as a kit to slap on your US made KUSA K12...

Thanks for the overview!

post script. There are a lot of right ways to do things, and a much smaller number of wrong ways. You can do your own, even if it isn't what I think is optimal. However, I do strongly suggest that you have a consistent system. By that I mean, have a constant policy about the condition of your guns. You should never wonder if a particular gun is loaded. My policy is that any gun not in the safe or a case is ready to go, and any gun in a case or safe is empty. You might do the opposite, or only have guns on your person or at your bedside ready.... Whatever your system, stick to it.

I keep mine fully loaded, with the safety on. There's no valid reason to leave an empty chamber with good ammo. i.e. Federal or hornady #4 buck. That leaves the operation with the most opportunity for error already done. The fabled deformed top round is mostly that. You can reproduce it with soft enough ammo with 00 buck or larger in a brand that uses no buffer or shotcup. At that point, I think you are going out of your way to have a bad time. I was able to get some S&B 15 pellet 00b to get some noticeable dents in the hull between the pellets over about a year of chambering

For others here, I would worry that they might start posting pictures even if no one asked the questions.

You know with some of the people here, I would be asking questions if they used a phrase like "My mom and girlfriend"....

The only steel brakes I hear of failures with are those amazon/ebay ones that are low quality cast steel copies of expensive brakes. i.e. there are a lot of crummy copies of the old Tromix shark brakes, that actually do break from time to time, and make the tromix people mad as can be when people try to submit them for warranty.

Oh, the other thing about the festiva, was it was night and day in feel and performance, and economy at some undefined weight threshold. I could have a passenger or two, and it was the same as always. If I had my dad in there, who is a big guy, the thing was just struggling, and it was like a completely different car.

I'm nothing special. I don't know much about the TDI, but I was impressed. feel free to be skeptical, I'm just reporting what I found on the trips I used it on. I enjoyed the car and was sad to see it die. As for the festiva, they came in with several different engines, and I had whichever the good one was with a 5 speed. We had a couple others in the family which were not as good, and one which was the same. The autos were garbage. I did a test driving for about a month and a half using 87 gas from arco, and ditto from the chevron which was at the time 10 cents more a gallon even. M