vicdoc

You can get these at various parts dealers, like robertrtg dot com, or hkparts dot net. Used or new available, used are half the price, or less.

S12 with RS Aimpoint mount.. CompC3... I like how low it sits, even lower than if you have a topcover mounted rail.

Very nice.. where can you buy that SVDS stock?

I got the 4 AGP mags too, they fit my gun without any filing, as did my MD20. Mine must be one of those loose guns!

Mine did the same, the S-12 needs medium to full power ammo for consistent feeding, or port work for more gas (in which case you need better regulation with a V-plug or TAC-47 auto plug), as well as some degree of friction reduction as described in the stickies. I did a moderate port increase, to make the medium loads I use more consistent, but I don't want to over-gas the gun or drill those big holes in the barrel either. My gun will still not feed Federal target loads (less than 1200 fps) which is so cheap at Walmart, but likes the slightly more expensive Walmart Winchester AA or XX ammo whi

You could try your hand at a parts kit build. Not real expensive and very rewarding. Here are a couple of parts kits I assembled in my garage... a Polish under folder and a Khyber Pass (from Romy G parts) AK with triangle folder:

This?

Needs some smoothing and polishing. Ports are really easy to deal with but you then need a V-plug for finer gas regulation.

I have the K-var foregrip and today I attached a 4" piece of MOE rail: had to drill for the 2 attaching screws, obviously, and there is a rib inside the grip that has to be leveled out for the retaining screw plates. I have a grip attached. You could attach a 1-3/4" piece of rail up front, but you will have to drill it and find the right screws to fit, too. If you don't mind it sticking out front 1/4" then using a 2" piece of rail is one way to go. You can get a 3" or 4" piece of MOE rail, cut to the length you want and use one of the screw holes, drill the second to match the spacing on the g

Yes, the ports are angled as shown, before any modification to my ports. There is a reason they drill them this way, I think it reduces the shaving by the edges of the holes.

Burlington ,NC here...

It is as useful as any full auto. You use bursts, which is easy to control with this stock. Yes it seems a bit cheap and it is ugly. But it works. BTW I ordered one of the more expensive Fostech Bumpskis which at least you see the machine work in. I think it will work with the S12, we shall see. With the AK74 at 10 cents a shot mag dumps are fun and not that expensive. I think the rear tang is not that critical to the stock because you can use the front screw.

I have one, used it for my AK74 Bulgy build. Great fun, easy to learn (1 magazine). Unfortunately it doesn't seem like it will go on my Saiga-12 without doing some modification where the rear tang is. If you have cut your rear tang it will work. It needs to have a hole where the grip nut goes to work, the DIY ones won't work with it without some additional modification. Here's mine, my brother shooting it for the first time...

Oh and one more thing, after cleaning the barrel I did note some lint caught by the rough edges of the holes so I smoothed them out by taping a very small piece of 600 emery cloth to the end of a fat aluminum shotgun cleaning rod, and I used that to smooth the flash out very carefully at the exact location of the ports, which is easy to locate.

Thanks for posting this how to. It spurred me to try it and I removed my gas block last night. It was much easier than I thought because the pins just pop right out. Here is the angle of the holes for additional info: Here are my ports before, note the furthest port is just clear of the block so I didn't do the "D" mod: Here are the ports after, the front 3 I opened to 5/64ths, and the closest opened to 3/32" since I don't like the low powered cheap stuff, I mainly use mid-powered Winchesters, very cheap at Wallymart: : Here is the tool I put together to help with the block removal pro

My ports are angled so that the top of the drill bit would be angled towards the receiver, not the other way around. Seems like it would not shave as much stuff off the shot cup this way.

I really like the RS mount I got in a couple of days ago with my Aimpoint. It sits pretty low. You can't see the fixed sights. My cheek riser needs to be up a couple of centimeters for me to have a decent cheek weld.

I didn't drill those 2 rolled pins out. I was able to tap them out with a pin driver. Not having access to any welding equipment I used my AK build riveting tools and 12 ton press to do some of the work. I used a jig for the rivet and grip nut holes from ak-builder. You can do it all with a Dremel tool, pin punch, with minimal drilling, and use screw attachments. Just plug the holes with hole plugs... You don't have to use a reinforcement plate, but I like the added strength in a folder.

Copes posted about this and said it fits. They are now the distributor for MDArms stuff so they ought to know.

Here is an update to my build up a couple of posts. I tried shooting with the K-var handguard. There is a sling attachment on the metal retainer, on the left, and in perfect position for your thumb to get whacked as the gun recoils. Ouch! So I drilled and attached a short piece of Weaver rail on the front of the bottom of the handguard and attached my Bobro short vertical grip. I also got in my RS 30 mm optic mount and attached it today. It positions the Aimpoint about 2 mm above the topcover, and there is just enough space to remove the topcover and bolt carrier assembly, but since it attac

No legal expert, but I have stayed at a Holiday Inn... it would appear that ITAR covers selling/shipping of parts overseas. If the value is less than $100 (wholesale), then the part is exempt from ITAR. However, this is such a byzantine and hazardous minefield of possible problems, criminal or civil penalties, that I would understand why nobody would send an MD-20 mag overseas. A magazine is considered part of a firearm, being a component or part of one, defined in the US Munitions List. It wold be a Category I firearm part, as I read it. In fact, even the instruction sheet for the mag could b

Traditional K-var. Looks and feels good. I might bolt a piece of rail under it, thoug, just long enough to attach a vertical foregrip. Found a piece in my pile of stuff...also added Aimpoint on RS rail mount...

Here is mine, finished it last night. AK-Builder hole drilling kit for the trigger guard rivet and grip holes, AK-Builder trigger guard kit, K-Var forearm and grip, Arsenal Trigger/Hammer/Sear, MD Arms puck, and flash hider, Mako Group folding stock, waiting on MD Arms V-plug. Bolt hold open ground to shorten (a bit too much!). The 1st and 3rd receiver holes from the rivets of the old trigger guard were left with the remaining rivet pieces which I re-squashed then ground flush. Re-reinforcing plate was riveted, by drilling, countersinking the plate, riveting and then grinding the rivet flat.

Great... I just ordered 4 Izhmash 5 rounders from CDNN for $25 each... never fails I buy stuff more expensive than necessary!

Got my MD-20 a couple of days ago, put it in my brand new Saiga-12, and it ran 24 out of 25 with 1 stove pipe FTE using Remington Sport Load ammo, 1 1/8 oz 7 1/2 shot, 1200 fps. A blast to shoot! The drum fit in my gun without any modification, I have it on the no. 2 setting. The only thing I have done to the gun is dry cycle it while watching TV maybe 300 times, and it really smoothed out the action a lot compared to when i first got it. I have some upgrade items coming in, and I'm going to convert it as well. What a fun gun...