my762buzz

The thing is that usually people sell ammonia into this process as a "salt neutralizer" which it does not do. Neutralization reactions are acid and bases and not salts. Keeping windex sitting in a barrel for hours is allowing it to work its corrosion on steel or chrome. Boiling hot water for a quick flush is a much better salt removal treatment. Carbon residue is much easier cleaned with non-water bearing cleaners. In chemistry it is taught that like dissolves like, carbon and water and not alike. Carbon based solvents like nonpolar oil based ones dissolve carbon properly. Windex does more

I was a chemistry minor in college. I had to spend some time with galvanic cells and basic corrosion study. Steel can corrode in the presence of water and oxygen. Water becomes the media or solvent of the reaction. Oxygen is a very electronegative atom that wants to take electrons from where ever it can. Iron in steel is vulnerable to this violent electron transfer reaction, but water is needed whether from the air as humidity (water vapor) or the condensed form of water vapor being water. The presence of salt ions in the water accelerate that process. Charged particles (ions) from metal-no

When the empties normally eject do they fling out more than 10 ft away before they touch the ground?

The problem with surplus is that you don't know how used and thus close to failure the spring is in the mag. I did have one 5.45 surplus mag fail multiple times at the range. Since I'm obsessed with reliability - not wanting my rifle to fail when I need it to save my life - I now only buy new production milspec mags. I remember getting a few dozen steel Romanian RPK surplus 40 round 7.62x39 mags from IO when they ran a sale for $9 a piece some years back. The mags arrive and after cleaning and putting them back together I test a few out. Half of them had worn out springs and would not f

Well, I got bored and decided to have a little curious fun. I took a TC Arms Contender walnut forearm, an Izmash saiga mag, an Izmash saiga forearm, a glock mag loader, and an Arsenal waffle mag and placed them into an aluminum foil lined oven tray. I set the intitial oven temperature at 250 F and allowed the parts to sit for 30 minute intervals at increasing temperatures. My intention was to observe what happens at the different set temperature points I use. I was quite surprised at how most of the parts became heavily damaged during the last interval that experienced a temperature as hi

The gas tube is easily replaced, barely necessary, (more of a guide for the piston than anything), and has got to be cheap to manufacture, which is why I'm guessing Ivan never bothered to chrome it. For the US market; a chromed gas tube option would be very welcome. How about the whole rifle done in black chrome? Corrosion resistent, solvent resistent, and looks slick.

The WD40 is a very good point. Any nonpolar (oil based) fluid like motor oil,wd 40, kerosene, petroleum jelly, cosmoline, vegetable oil, animal fats like lard will coat the steel and prevent any corrosion. The eastern block armories used cosmoline(oil based) for decades to prevent rust and it worked just fine. Instead of windex (very bad idea from a long time ago), if shooters want to prevent corrosion until they have time to clean a squirt bottle of motor oil or WD40 would keep oxidation from happening. Salt cannot do its dirty work of creating corrosion while swimming in oil based media.

The gas tube inner surface is unprotected as in non-chromelined steel unlike the inner gas block is on saigas which is chrome lined. Hot gases exit the barrel partially through the gas hole then enter into the gas block and then pass into the gas tube area where the hot gases contact the cooler gas tube. Just like your breath can condense against a cooler glass window and fog it, the hot gases will also condense against cooler surfaces like the gas tube. I have seen my gas tubes get small amounts of rust even shooting American made ammo that is absolutely non corrosive. Shooting corrosive pri

Yes, absolutely true. Rust is iron oxide which means iron combined with oxygen. In order for this to happen, water needs to be present. No water, no moisture in the air, then no problem. http://science.howstuffworks.com/question445.htm Letting windex(over 90% water)sit on steel is asking for trouble. The ammonium in windex makes it even more corrosive than water alone. Water, ammonium, and salts combined make a fantastic corrosion promoting solution.

I left windex on a fairly new stainless steel knife for a couple of hours. I got rust pitting and corrosive etching. I sure wouldn't leave windex in my barrel. Water flushes away any salts just fine.

I'll go with this to a point. I think the $40 scope is good enough for punching paper in very controlled conditions, but I doubt it would hold up long being drug through the woods. I'm looking into a POSP but not sure if I want to spend the monies on it now. The Tasco does hold good zero with this mount. Might only be off a foot at 500 yds. each time I put it back on. My long range 500-1000 yard rig has produced 0.3 inch groups with Federal Gold Medal Match ammo pretty consistently but sometimes the same Gold Medal Match ammo on warmer days produces groups of 0.5 MOA. I have al

Every Saiga I own with at least a 10x scope mounted (not iron sighted)and the rifle properly bench rested has consistently produced 2 MOA or less with USA made ammo. Russian ammo produces a bit more moa size in the same guns. My Russian Vepr has been more consistently closer to 1 MOA. I'm not talking about a comparison of Joe Smith that buys a Wasr10 or Chinese Mak90 and then proceeds to use the cheapest ammo he can find and instead of bench resting the rifle shoots standing without a scope free handed and then decides that that is as good as it gets. That would be a rediculous evaluation

The open tip is suppose to react with water hydraulically to strip away the jacket and allow the lead core to quickly expand or fragment within the wet media like for instance living tissue. Hitting a car door should not have the same expansion effect and I would seriously doubt that lead core FMJ would have any significant advantage in hard barrier penetration but I can't remember seeing anyone's testing of hp versus sp vs fmj through wood or some other measurable material distance wise. Because bullets are only stabilized by the twist rate to remain stable through air, impacting anything d

I hope they continue to ship them to the USA but there is not much of them around for sale right now. I have not tried the 154gr but the seem to open up a bit in ballistic gel. Definitely better than FMJ but not as much concentrated destruction as 8m3. http://www.brassfetcher.com/7.62x39mm%20Wolf%20154gr%20Soft%20Point.html Wolf 154gr sp

The 8m3 has always been 124 gr hollowpoints. No other recent hollowpoints from Russia are 124 gr that I seen any reports of. The prefail cuts should be easy to feel with a thin wire or staple on the inside of the hollow point. If you saw a new recent batch that was labeled 124gr hollow points in the camo boxes, the prefail cuts should be there. If no cuts, then most probably something is different. Yes, it was a good idea to hold back for the real 8m3 if it can't be identified. By the way a few pictures (not my pigs but good references for this)

Has been? Previously? What's with the past tense? Are they not making the 124 hollow point anymore? I've noticed it's gotten scarce. I have not seen much of it lately. It might be days away from more arriving by shipload but I see none right now. The other thing is lately I have seen a few reports of a possible change in the bullet type which I have not been able to confirm because I can't seem to find any from the last batch imported. If I do, I might go shoot some wet news print and hopefully recover some test bullets to post some pictures of.

Just what the Doctor prescribed for hearing protection. As far as Flash, yes it works better than any other flash suppressor, but not really for recoil other than making the front a bit heavier to keep the muzzle down.

The best AK deals I ever saw over ten years ago were regular saigas $150, Robarm Veprs $400, Arsenal Sam7 $400-450, and at the same time Romanian SAR1 $200-$250 and single stack WASR 10 $100-$150 and dealers I knew couldn't give the WASR 10 rifles away back then. There were places selling AKM parts kits for $75 and ammo could be cheaply bought for $60 to $70 per 1000.

It's nothing compared to similar contrasts in other areas like 870 express vs 870 wingmaster or Colt AR15 vs most other AR15 or Ed Brown 1911 vs any other 1911.

The differences are based on 2 things. 1. A wasr is made from recycled Romanian AKM (1960-1980s) parts built into a sporter then reshaped in the USA into an AKM clone. A saiga is made from new modern 100 series steel parts and put together by the AK grand masters in Russia. Here the contrast is solely based on quality of parts based on the source. 2. The Russian military spent decades redesigning and perfecting the AKM. The newer series has a higher carrier to

The Hornady loaded plastic tip ammo pretty much is the best performing American made 7.62x39 ammo for self defense. It feeds with a FMJ profile and opens up efficiently distributing far more proportional force than most other bullet choices available. I have shot deer with the hornady plastic tip ammo and it caused far more damage than typical american made soft points. No energy is wasted. As much as they expand and transfer energy, this means the bullet is less likely to exit and cause unintentional damage to someone standing behind the intended target.

I think you can answer that yourself if you watch this video. Watch the containers very carefully as they are shot. Shot 1 BEAR HP, SHOT 2 WOLF MILITARY CLASSIC (8M3), SHOT 3 DOUBLE TAP (HORNADY VMAX), SHOT 4 CORBON SP. If you want minimum damage to the target, use a FMJ. If you want maximum tissue disruption, you need something that really tears the target a new one. The cheapest russian import that makes this happen has been the 8m3 bullet previously manufactured in Military Classic 124 gr hollow points. The hornady plastic tip ammo will do the same.

Try shooting a small basket ball size target at least 10 yards away 5 times fast as possible with and then without the SGL21 brake. Try and notice your speed difference. Bowling allies sometimes sell old worn out bowling pins fairly cheap and these make good targets. I line up several and time myself in knocking down all of them.

I personally know that the real 74 style brakes like the KVAR one work far better but most other people can't see this easily. This is why a side by side comparison video would help to clearify this.