vjor

VK is right in a way, I have see it happen, but in the other hand I had luck with rubber plug . And yes like VK says, phos will don't stick to unprepared surface to well especially chrome line barrel at all, I usually after the hold stuff is done clean barrel like I clean regular gun after use on the range, but even if still some phos after that, just fire the gun it will take the phos out, make sure no big gulps of it before you go and fire the thing. ( never had see phos cake on a barrel aether) And make sure no built on the gas port from barrel the GB, no that never happen

Thanks bob, hey brother look into this muzzle brake. E-Tac man, I think will help a lot with a short barrel rifle. Well it keep the barrel steady on line, even in rapid fire, you can pick targets one after another one, it surprise me a lot on the rapid fire, you can put a line of targets and move left or right with no muzzle climbing what so ever and pick a target one after another one. I was expecting a lot less recoil like complete zero, but still man recoil was nothing compare to regular gun with out one, even than the .223 has little recoil, yea man it really surprise m

I like it. Nice touch on the FSB.

Here, this is the picture I say before. The Ultimak is a Vepr ultimak with shims to be mounted on barrel, shims sold by ultimak use on rumanian .223, the front sight is ACE and a muzzle brake. Any way is a lot less chopping of the original Saiga hand guard, and looks cool I will say at list my opinion .

Well is a way to cut less if you use and ultimak, but is work, you get and Vepr ultimak a little more money than regular ak ultimaks, less cutting on the regular Saiga hand guard, you are going to need 2 shims they sale them at ultimak , shims for the rumanian ak rifles. The Vepr has shorter lugs than the regular ultimak rail, thats were you need the shims to align the rail with the gas block. If I find a picture of the gun I saw, I will post it for you to see it.

Nice brother, looking good.

That is cool and easy to do, man good post, I had used threaded rod instead of the wood when I made stands is small and it is hard to hit, but I have broken even steel posts, LOl more than few by accident.

Yes brother if you have some more pics, post them man like I say before you guys are excellent company, I even forgot I had a camera on my truck.

cool beans scoutjoe.

Well I test fully on the Florida shoot out. Well here is pics of this brake, it is install on my .223 OK just for info, Fully tested the E-TAC Muzzle brake at the Florida Shoot out, Muzzle raize none, muzzle jump None, super light recoil on top of the light recoil of the .223, even brother saltpeter told me about the light recoil on the gun as he tested my rifle and I tested his galil. Ok pros no muzzle jump, no muzzle raise, recoil I will say super light, think on a .22 magnun or lesser, let you hit multiple targets really quick, even on rapid fire. Cons, loud p

Thanks brother, I will say check this post if you thinking of doing something like this learn from my mistakes. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showto...mp;#entry207864

Why not brother, is a shoot out and we all falloer of the Saiga fate.

Well here again with this stuff, well yesterday tested the guns at the Saiga shoot out. Ok let see , first the .223 have to spats were the paint came off, one was small spat on the side of the receiver cover, the other one was small spat on the ACE skeleton stock, today I check the gun overall was ok. Second the 7.62x39 was OK, one small bubble area on bottom of barrel. But that was the result of continuous firing about I think 500 to 600 rounds of ammo true it. Well is kind of my fault as I don't let the duracote fully cure for about 2 weeks before the shoot out. OK lets

That is easy, light barrel .223 , Bulgarian FSGB, ultimak hand buard and ultimak rail, do you going with the Russian style folder or ACE esqueleton stock ? I will use a light barrel, like that the FSGB dont have to be ream out to install it, plus you may found a little problem, the Bulgarian FSGB uses only one pin, the front one, if you found a light barrel it may be with dimples and only one pin the rear one on the GB. Hope helps any. The two rifles that I am holding right now, were made in 2006 one is HB and one LB I don't see any designation on them more than M-03 on b

Brother you have no idea, man it was so relaxing, people rack guns all days long, from regular .22 to full auto, and the best is that every one was like really cool about everything, Man I wish we can do this one time a week but will put me in the poor house, burn ammo like it was not tomorrow. :D :D :D :D :D And hope to see you there in the next one.

First of all Big thanks to all of you that came and make my day and this shoot out, BIG THANKS BROTHERS. Second of all BIG THANKS TO FLTF3 this man make things happens for the rest of us. Now that Jugs send me my fries ( LOL ) here are some pictures, but I really dont took many as company was so good forgot that even had a camera with me. Here no names on the pics but here are the few I took. Must of the pics were taken late after noon I think . Sorry guys no more pics for my part, it was really cool out there and man do we burn some powder last Saturday, damn I ca

LOL, brother, oh brother ,Man life is good and the best guys to shoot with came to the Saiga shoot out. Well if any one want pics tomorrow, I am going to sleep. Well no many pics, why because every one was busy burning powder.

hh

I do disassemble the gun complete, everything goes apart. Now if you going to use a open blaster hold parts with leather gloves to hold parts and blast the side that you are not holding, they will last unless you blast at them and eventually you will make holes on the gloves. That is good point, I have seen that with small grain, get embedded on parts like on a saiga side rail and even between the GB and barrel and FSB and barrel, I have found bigger grain will don't do that but the blasting is really rough and I mean rough, I usually use a dental metal pick to pass on part

Damn bro, and I was thinking 400 rounds of everything was enough for the shoot out. damn man I guess you really mean to shoot out when you go shooting :D :D :D That man is a true believer of the Saiga fate. He will have 70 virgin saigas 12G and rifles when he reaches paradise as a good practitioner of the Saiga fate.

By the way I just off the phone with Chris butler of AK-USA, well we talk for a while and he way start to make parts for the Saigas and AK rifles hard to find stuff to customize your gun, If I was you I will give the man a call, cause if you thinking on a FSGB like the one on my gun, he may start to make those if enough people will want them, especially if you give him diameters he can make them to be easy press on the guns. Leave your phone number and he will call back.

In heavy barrel .632 under the GB , light barrel .594 of a inch. Hey bro both barrel can be threat for 14-1LH this is from a post from Bad BOB who I think forgot more than I will never know. Personally, I prefer Gunplumber's FAL 'cookbook' method ( http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/ ). Gunplumber's 'cookbook' is no longer available free online (like it was back in the '90s), but it amounts to this: figure out what your minimum outside barrel diameter should be prior to threading (measuring the OD of your 'thread alignment tool' - TAT - is one way), and then cut flats in the bar

If you have a blasting cabinet use Aluminum oxide. If you going to do it on the open dont waste your money, use play sand or regular sand, before you put the sand into the sand blaster, screen it true a strainer, even a cooking fine strainer will do and make sure the sand is dry, if not put it on a 5 gallon bucket and let it dry for a week. Now on media about 80 to 160, but remember the coarse the media the faster it works but on soft metals or plastic it can eat it on no time. Here a link that you may use http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/blasting-media.htm Degrea

Brother is yours hey the 8 MM will hit hard, man do you think the 7.62x54 have any recoil, lol wait until you shoot this thing .

I have use a lot stuff in my days, ultimak is good with a low red dot, I use it a lot I have a Russian PK-01 that the kids just fubar, it was mount really low to co-witness it with irons, I use 30 mm rings on it, the lowest rings I can find and that was that. Until my kid do me a favor, thinking the things was going to go into the oven for curing after camo when I was out, cook the thing at 200 degrees and well it burn the photocell LOL I guess that test how much heat it can take LOL. I have try a lot of stuff and the side mount clamps, yes they put the red dot high and lik