Gunfixr

A standard Tapco Bulgarian fixed AK stock is either 8 1/2" or 9" (can't remember which now). The Tromix stock is 8 1/2" w/o the Limbsaver. Ace stocks come in 7 1/2", 8 1/2", and 9 1/2", with either a 1/2" or 1" base pad. If you add an Ace folding mechanism, you're adding another 1/2". For reference, my Tromix w/o Limbsaver, on an Ace folding mechanism, attached to a Tromix weld on back plate gives me a 13" length of pull. An internal block would add about 1/8" to that.

I am booked through January, and starting into February now. If you want an SBS, I can do the work on Form 1'd weapons now, and am awaiting word on our SOT Manufacturers license.

I always reuse the retaining wire, unless the customer wants something different. I cut the extra "tail" off the other end of the coil, and cut some off the long end, enough that it goes just past the hammer pivot pin with the coil sitting between the trigger and the PG nut. Then, the long end gets a slight curve to it where it sits on top of the hammer pivot, going down in front of the pivot. When it gets installed, it goes under the trigger pivot, and over the hammer pivot, with the coil sitting right against the front side of the PG nut. I have yet to have one move, and the coil gives a nic

What is it you're trying to polish? Are you working on the trigger, or just trying to get the bolt carrier to move easier? You won't need anything past 600or maybe 800 grit on the bolt carrier. For the hammer/trigger, 1500 will get you where you need to go. As for the scope rail, you need to cut the heads off all three rivets before it will come off, and even then it will take some prying to get it to move. Be careful not to push in the side of the receiver. Also, the rear rivet is also the rear trunnion rivet, so it needs to be repeened, or at least welded. I just grind the other 2 almost f

Mine did that also, and I slightly bent out the top part of the safety near the back, and bent in the dust cover a little, so that they meet instead of the safety going under the cover. If you push hard, it will still go, but normal use it now works as it should.

I can't tell you to force it without knowing what's keeping it from going all the way on. I have seen them just tight, and some extra pressure seat them, but I've also seen them not fit right, and force cause damage.

I think it's 16lbs, but I could be wrong. A search will generate some results, that's how I found it originally.

Tromix does Norrells Molyresin, so somebody there can probably answer with more details than I. However, yes, it can be applied to internals. Anything that can stand the 300 degrees baking temp can be coated. It probably won't hold up on springs though. As for the safety dragging a line through it, it is quite durable, but I would imagine that eventually it will break through. Nothing is impenetrable.

As noted, Duracoat is in the prep, and it's pretty easy. Also, we do Duracoating. As for shipping, yes, a stripped barreled receiver is considered shipping a firearm. No, you don't have to use an FFL to ship it, but it must go to an FFL. It is legal to ship your firearm to an FFL holder for customization or repair, and that FFL can ship the same firearm back directly to you.

I think I'd have a recoil spring or 2, and maybe a hammer spring or 2. For recoil springs, 1911 springs work, and for the hammer, it's a standard AK hammer spring.

First, when you say the BHO, do you mean the BHO itself, or the spring? Did you remove about .050" from the end of the hub on the hammer where it sits against the BHO? If not, it will cause the hammer to sit that much more to the left, putting the body of the hammer against the trigger hook. It wouls also make the hammer/trigger pivot pin retainng spring that much more difficult, as the groove on the hammer pivot pin would be over into the side of the receiver.

Off the top of my head, the inside length from where the barrel muzzle would be to the end of the petals is about 1 1/2", maybe 1 5/8". It's easy enough to check. Take the collar off your choke, and using a 6" steel scale, slide it inot the fingers end until you see it at the step where the muzzle bottoms out. The measurement doesn't have to be within thousandths, as you should leave just a little extra anyway. I usually leave 1/4". It will make up for any small imperfections in measurement, or small imperfections in the measurement and LEO takes.

Both guns appear in the pics to have the same stock. The difference is that the 8" gun also has an ACE folding mechanism installed, allowing it to side fold as well as telescope in and out.

We're at about the same timeframe, late Feb. Jan is already full, and Feb is filling up fast, so it could become March pretty quick.

You might want to remember one other thing. While the vented Polychoke is longer, the outside collar that actually closes the fingers of the choke, and has the vents on it, will unscrew until it comes completely off. Since the whole key here is permanently attached, that collar cannot count as permanent. Thus, for purposes of measurement for OAL barrel length, the distance to the end of the fingers with the collar removed would be the correct way. BATFEs standard method of measurement is to put a rod down the bore until it hits the breech face of the closed action/bolt, and measure to the en

As for the double hook versus single hook, the extra hook is unnecessary. If you are hoping for a nice trigger pull, it does add difficulty to try to get both hooks to ride the same, it's much easier to just have to work with one. Also, either the receiver or the trigger must be modified for it to just move properly in it's space. The hammer must also be modified also, irregardless of which trigger is used.

With a Form 1 you won't have to worry about Bubba, but getting the work done is beyond just hand tools. So yes, you can convert it yourself, but you should seek the aid of a professional for the SBS work, whether or not you go Form 1 or Form 4, unless you are a machinist with access to the equipment.

Since during the AWB the NFA weapons could have the "evil" features, such as threaded barrels, flash hiders, bayonet lugs, etc., It would be supposed that in any future AWB this would also apply. The nature of any NFA weapon is that it is registered as such, and therefore outside the purview of the everyday general firearm.

The pic you saw was probably the one I posted of the 8" gun. It has an Ergo rubber grip originally made for an AR, with some sort of adapter in it. It was ok, but not very sturdy. The owner wanted to keep it, as he liked it. I made some mods to the grip and got it to fit better and mount better. It involved epoxying in the adapter, actually filling in the upper portion with epoxy, and then recutting it to fit with the Tromix DIY trigger guard being used.

Converting is easy, and I'm not going to tell you you can't do it yourself. But for anybody who thinks you can make an 8" SBS S12 with a Dremel, and electric drill and some files might want to rethink that. The gas block is going to have to be moved back, and the barrel will have to be turned down to accomplish this. Then the gas tube, which can be fudged with ahacksaw and files, if you're real careful. But then comes the bolt carrier.

The pic I posted of the 8" SBS was a customer supplied Form 1. ATF told me they "suggested" but not required a Form 5. We didn't worry about it.

I liked the part about how Stalin and Mao just killed thousands because they were Atheists (which I doubt really had anything to do with it), but neglected to tell how many thousands, more like millions, over the centuries have been killed by Christians in the name of God. Throughout history, no religion has distanced itself from murder, no matter what they say.

Here's one I did. The customer plans on adding his own handguard later, and his own muzzle attachment, so I just rethreaded the barrel.

Now that sounds really cool, but the car wasn't moving. We started behind the wheel, at the buzzer had to move over to the passenger side and engage those targets, then move back to the driver side and engage those targets, loading as necessary. The doors were shut, although once back on the driver's side, you could open it and put one foot on the ground for a brace. I didn't bother with that. The targets were arranged so that you had to lean out the window for at least one of them on each side, making sure you slid all the way across the seat. Oh, and unlike most 3-gun, where you can go to

Damn, Azrial, that's funny. My personal opinion, not gleaned through any time on Halo3, but lots of time on Doom, is that you want the biggest shoes you can get to stay on your feet. That way, when you take multiple hits from the BG, you won't be knocked over, since you have such a stable base. Seriously, I never thought I needed a folder on my S12 either. I ended up putting one on anyway, because I wanted it, and that's good enough. I transport it in a shorter case, folded, and it stays wherever outside the case extended. I mostly shoot it extended. But, at a 3-gun shoot, I had to engage