RSA vs Dinzag vs Tromix FCG

[engbob 0]

I'm trying to decide on which trigger group to get. The first choice is the RSA for $95, which seems to be a fave due to the adjustable feature. Next is Dinzags for $80 which is the G2 which he modified. Then last is the Tromix, which is also a G2 which has been modified but is only $45. Now, as far as the first goes, if i pull the trigger and the rifle goes BANG i'm good. So the fact that it is adjustable is not a big selling point. With Dinzags, he made the mods to the G2 and i'd like to give him the money bc he's helped a lot of us out (including myself) and i'd like to support him. But for $15 more i'd get a supposedly much better trigger in the RSA. Then lastly is the Tromix, which (in lamens eyes) seems like the Dinzag FCG, except $35 cheaper. I know most of you have one of these three, so looking for opinions.

 

Thanks

[xjedix 6]

+1 I am also curious what you guys think.

[LKB3rd 0]

I just finished mine, and I went back and forth between Dinzag's .308 and an RSA vepr .308 FCG when deciding. I think the only thing that made my decision was that I wanted it asap and Dinzag's would have shipped with the other two parts I ordered which I guess he fits to order. So I ordered the other two parts from him, and got an RSA that was in stock.

The RSA works very well so far. Around 100 rounds through it, worked without any issues. I did have to mess up the adjustments, then learn how to adjust it back... but now I have the adjustment process pretty well down, so it worked out fine. I loctited all the set screws but the pull weight, and am headed to the range today with my allen wrench and loctite, so it should be good to go for a while after that.

It also dropped in without any mods needed, which is the same as Dinzag's, and I guess probably Tromix' too.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

I vote for either of the modified G-2s. That's all I use in mine. I don't care for triggers that have to be adjusted and locktited to work right. There's always the chance that they can come "unadjusted" when you need them most. And what's the point of it being adjustable if you have to locktite it and make it so that it's not. Not to mention the high price...

[ArcFault 4]

I'm with Cobra. I have done two RSAs and two G2s at this point, I did not find the RSAs to be as purely drop in as everyone else seems to. They required the same mods to the hammer face as the G2 and a slight mod to the sear which I maybe didn't have to do, but it made the job easier and didn't harm anything. You also have to fiddle with them a fair bit to get the adjustments to your liking, so the RSA is not less work and it costs more. The benefit is you get a two stage pull if you want it, something you won't get from the G2.

 

Now, a G2 that is already worked over and should be a truly drop in trigger is a pretty attractive option. The G2s are smooth and light and they are cheaper, and in your case they shouldn't require much more work other than simple installation.

Edited May 17, 2008 by ArcFault

[buckandaquarterquarterstaff 5]

Does either the Dinzag or Tromix product fix the safety issue? If not, then I'd just get a standard G2 and file off a bit (save the extra $'s).

[Vultite 57]

i got the tromix trigger group for my X39 gun from mississippi auto arms and i dropped right in place, the hammer was already shaved for BHO lever...i like it, no problems at all

Edited May 18, 2008 by Vultite

[engbob 0]

so it seems we're down to 2. Dinzags $80 G2 or the Tromix $45 G2. What is the difference?

[cellsworth 21]

Go to dinzagarms.com and look. Dinzag clearly indicates what he does to modify the .308 FCG. To my knowledge, Dinzag's FCG is the only one that resolves ALL of the issues peculiar to the Saiga .308 FCG, including the safety issue. He even includes the proper disconnecter spring already installed in the FCG. I got one from him, and I feel that they are well worth the price.

Edited May 20, 2008 by hogdog

[engbob 0]

thanks for all the input guys. i went ahead and ordered the Dinzag FCG.

[Saiga308Guy 3]

thanks for all the input guys. i went ahead and ordered the Dinzag FCG.

 

I just got my Dinzag FCG yesterday, its super smooth, and was pretty much drop in. Well worth the money.

Edited May 20, 2008 by Saiga308Guy

[dinzag 31]

Thank you for the support guys. Here's a few additional tidbits. (GOB beware - it's a little wordy)

 

The Saiga 308 is an oddball application, hence the price - $80. There's several extra mods to them to make them a true drop in. Build up material to engage safety, cross member relief, hammer face rework, bho relief, hand polish every contacting surface, refinish. All of the factory Saiga hammers have a chamfer at the rear and it really affects cycling and assembly. Notice on the plain G2's they have a rounded hump back there, many times it will hold the bolt back cycling by hand. Also the factory 308 triggers have sheetmetal spot welded over the trigger body which in turn requires a larger hole in the receiver. Tossing any ole' trigger in there you should notice it floating left to right. That is addressed as well.

 

The RSA 308 adjustables are nice and you can get them dialed in pretty sweet. You do need to address the trigger floating (which can jam up the rifle or break the hook on the trigger) and cut clearance in the hammer for the Saiga BHO lever. The Saiga-12 & 308 ones listed on their site are identical to the VEPR-308 ones. They do have the cut for the cross member and taller trigger legs for the safety.

 

If Tromix's 308 FCG drops right in, requires no mods, then by all means buy from him. I can't make them for that cheap.

 

I totally rework and polish them all by hand. No parting lines and all contacting surfaces are smoothed out. Then they are washed & degreased, baked & refinished. All the other PG converted Saiga FCG's are $55 each. Only the PG converted 308 set runs $80.

 

If you want to do the mods yourself, I also offer unmodded G2's, the Arsenal FCG's and the RSA's will be up shortly as well.

All will come with disco spring, e-clips & hitch pins. Tony also sends a retaining wire and disco spring with his.

[engbob 0]

thanks for the info Dinzag glad i ordered your FCG.

[buckandaquarterquarterstaff 5]

Another much less high tech way to address the left to right trigger float is to insert a spring on one side of the trigger. This causes it to rub against the receiver, but with a little polish and working in it's still pretty smooth. The G2 is awfully creepy no matter what you do to it (safely). I'm sure Dinzag's got that covered in a better way, but if you've only got $30 to spend on your trigger, just keep the spring thing in mind.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

+1

I've incorporated something along those lines into my new short throw trigger using the G-2.

[oxyehho 8]

Another much less high tech way to address the left to right trigger float is to insert a spring on one side of the trigger. This causes it to rub against the receiver, but with a little polish and working in it's still pretty smooth. The G2 is awfully creepy no matter what you do to it (safely). I'm sure Dinzag's got that covered in a better way, but if you've only got $30 to spend on your trigger, just keep the spring thing in mind.

I am using Tromix set and there most def is a left to right play.

Where do I find a spring that would fit over the trigger axis pin?

Also, I will be using a retaining plate, so the spring would be pushing on the plate, not the receiver, right?

[rbthntr64 21]

The RSA sets are available from others sources for less than $90 and are absolutly awesome. I have them in all my Kalash Variant builds. The S12 requires a little tweeking to get it to clear the carrier, but work equally well.

[vintagedude88 16]

I'm glad I got my conversion parts from Dinzag. It was for a Saiga 12 and although the FCG was a little more the conversion kit (trigger guard, hardware and pg nut bolt) was a little less and it all evened out. I like the fact that his site states that his FCGs are a "true drop-in conversion" hence I won't be bithching and moaning when I do my build.

 

I'm still on the fence about converting the .308 If only I can feel confident about the MMG exempting me from AW status, I would be there. Nice to know where I can go.

[kevins7189 1]

I'm still confused on this. Is there a diagram that shows exactly what needs to be done specifically for a .308 to a regular g2 trigger? Most of the links I've found the pics have been removed.

Also, does the tromix group FOR SURE drop right in on a .308, and the ONLY problem it has is left/right play? No other mods?

 

thanks!

[quikz 1]

+1 for the Dinzag....

[cma g21 3]

Another much less high tech way to address the left to right trigger float is to insert a spring on one side of the trigger. This causes it to rub against the receiver, but with a little polish and working in it's still pretty smooth. The G2 is awfully creepy no matter what you do to it (safely). I'm sure Dinzag's got that covered in a better way, but if you've only got $30 to spend on your trigger, just keep the spring thing in mind.

I am using Tromix set and there most def is a left to right play.

Where do I find a spring that would fit over the trigger axis pin?

Also, I will be using a retaining plate, so the spring would be pushing on the plate, not the receiver, right?

 

A small washer will work better (IMHO) than a spring.

[oxyehho 8]

Another much less high tech way to address the left to right trigger float is to insert a spring on one side of the trigger. This causes it to rub against the receiver, but with a little polish and working in it's still pretty smooth. The G2 is awfully creepy no matter what you do to it (safely). I'm sure Dinzag's got that covered in a better way, but if you've only got $30 to spend on your trigger, just keep the spring thing in mind.

I am using Tromix set and there most def is a left to right play.

Where do I find a spring that would fit over the trigger axis pin?

Also, I will be using a retaining plate, so the spring would be pushing on the plate, not the receiver, right?

 

A small washer will work better (IMHO) than a spring.

 

I tried very hard to make the washer work and it simply didn't work out for me. It was either too small and didn't drop into the trigger hole or too big and impeded the hammer.

After much trial and error I was able to stop the trigger left to right play by 2 methods:

1. Spring as mentioned before in this thread. I went to the hardware store and bought a compression spring - just played around until I found one that fit over the trigger axis and trigger bushing. Also, by trial and error I had to cut the spring so it would provide enough tension to press the trigger to the receiver in the hole, but not too much, so mounting of the axis is possible. I wasn't entirely happy with the outcome though, since the trigger body is always grinding against the receiver when you pull the trigger.

 

2. Aluminum spacer (non-threaded). So I went back to the hardware store to look for what would work better than the spring and found various diameter metal spacers. Basically those are cylinders with bores drilled out. Luckily, I was able to find a perfect match - an aluminum spacer that fits over trigger axis perfectly and when put inside the receiver it clears the bottom of the receiver and doesn't impede the hammer. All I had to do was to file away a little bit on one side to make it fit. This way you can control exactly how tight your trigger body is against the receiver. So to me that was finally perfect.

 

Hope this helps.

[oxyehho 8]

I'm still confused on this. Is there a diagram that shows exactly what needs to be done specifically for a .308 to a regular g2 trigger? Most of the links I've found the pics have been removed.

Also, does the tromix group FOR SURE drop right in on a .308, and the ONLY problem it has is left/right play? No other mods?

 

thanks!

Tromix is most def a drop in, BUT with the left/right play.

I most certainly recommend Dinzag route though - the amount of time I spent solving the left/right play was simply not worth it. I am still waiting for the shipment from Brian - just a friendly tug

[CaptSkip 0]

I have an RSA FCG in my sweeet SAR-1, but for my new .308 SAIGA conversion, I just ordered the Dinzag .308 FCG.

 

The $75 sale price and free shipping is nice. Thanks Brian!

[jdmakersmark 15]

I need to order the kit from Dizang too, but I'm concerned about my skills or lack of skills in pulling this off. I guess I should just drop the hammer and get it done. At least I can get help on the forum. It can't be that difficult.

[TonyRumore 1,332]

We don't sell an FCG for the Saiga .308, only the S-12 model which doesn't fix the safety issue in the .308's.

 

I certainly could make them, but it appears the demand is rather low and adding that weld and blend operation is going to greatly increase the cost.

If you are converting a Saiga .308, buy Dinzag's FCG.

 

Tony

[CaptSkip 0]

We don't sell an FCG for the Saiga .308, only the S-12 model which doesn't fix the safety issue in the .308's.

 

I certainly could make them, but it appears the demand is rather low and adding that weld and blend operation is going to greatly increase the cost.

If you are converting a Saiga .308, buy Dinzag's FCG.

 

Tony

 

Hello Tony.

 

Mississippi Auto Arms has the Tromix FCG listed within the Saiga .308 'internals'.

 

Then this boxed text:

 

Tromix Fire Control Group - Tromix modified Tapco Trigger assembly installation in every Saiga (except the Saiga-410 & the Saiga 100 Series) for a conversion where the trigger assembly is being moved forward. This kit includes the Tromix disconnecter spring and Tromix Shepherds crook (neither parts come with standard Tapco Trigger Group). Hammer has also been modified by Tromix. Made in US. Counts as 3 U.S. Sec 922R compliant parts.

 

No exclusion of the .308.

 

I had narrowed my choices of FCGs to Danzig's and your Tromix FCG.

 

Possibly a BIG heads-up is in order to MAA and any other vendors that may be marketing the Tromix FCG specifically for the Saiga .308.

 

Hope this helps eliminate any more confusion.