AUTO PLUG TAC 47 T.A.R.G.E.T

[madmax4x4 68]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

The instructions say that it won't improve cycling. Furthermore I don't think this plug should be looked at like some sort of miracle part. Nobody should expect this thing to make your gun shoot ammo that it wouldn't shoot before. It's only suppose to enable your gun to shoot ammo without having to adjust a valve.

 

My gun will cycle Federal Low Brass on gunfixer setting three. I've never fired Winchester or Remington low brass before. The only time I'll have an issue is if this thing won't cycle the ammo that my gunfixer/factory plug does or it allows my bolt to beat the shit out of the Trunnion while firing reasonably powered slugs.

 

My gun would run Federal bulk pack on gunfixer setting 3. It became unreliable with the auto gas plug. I wasn't expecting better performance, I was simply hoping for equal performance without the need to switch to 2 for slugs.

 

I did tighten down the screw on the auto gas plug per the instructions after the first 2 FTEs with maybe only a slight improvement.

 

I'm not dissing the auto gas plug, and I'm not some goofbat that just flew in here expecting the ability to sprinkle fix it dust in the gas system. My gun is low-gassed and I know it. After all; I did it. I'm just throwing this up as a comparison. Low gassed gun cycles federal bulk pack with Gunfixer on setting 3, but does not cycle federal bulk with the Auto gas plug.

[hobbyshooter 59]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

I've tried many front recoil springs. A stronger spring resists cycling more. I used to use one of those before I ported the barrel. Now I use a CSS lighter power recoil spring which makes the action travel easier...

 

I know I should open the gas ports, and may end up doing that ultimately.

Edited September 16, 2010 by hobbyshooter

[unusedusername 3]

Got mine in the mail...

 

Very nice packaging...

 

So when I screw it in, do I press down the spring that holds the factory plug, screw in the autoplug all the way and back it out till it clicks (like other plugs), or do I just screw it in until it clicks without holding down the spring?

 

Looking forward to trying it!

[kw4tx 0]

cant wait for more tests....got ship notice and just ordered a md-20.... and I don't even have my Saiga yet.... still on layaway

[hobbyshooter 59]

So when I screw it in, do I press down the spring that holds the factory plug, screw in the autoplug all the way and back it out till it clicks (like other plugs), or do I just screw it in until it clicks without holding down the spring?

Mine was pretty tight once it got to the plunger. I pressed the plunger down with the flat sight tool. That's what tools are for, they make things easier...

[sapper1371usmc 107]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

I've tried many front recoil springs. A stronger spring resists cycling more. I used to use one of those before I ported the barrel. Now I use a CSS lighter power recoil spring which makes the action travel easier...

 

I know I should open the gas ports, and will likely end up doing that so I can use the auto gas plug on this gun.

 

Yes a stronger spring on the recoil rod assembly does in fact add resistance to the bolt carrier as it travels rearward, but for the plug, it is a different principal. A stronger spring in the plug will keep more resistance on the internal gas valve (the thing inside the plug that moves to allow gas to escape) keeping it closed so that more gas can cycle the action rather than escaping through the plug ports.

[sapper1371usmc 107]

Ive also taken mine apart. There really isnt much of a chance any parts will come flying out. There is only the cap, spring, and valve/plunger. Just make sure before you disassemble, you know how far the cap screws inside the plug and that the slot is line up just as it came from TAC 47.

[sapper1371usmc 107]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

The instructions say that it won't improve cycling. Furthermore I don't think this plug should be looked at like some sort of miracle part. Nobody should expect this thing to make your gun shoot ammo that it wouldn't shoot before. It's only suppose to enable your gun to shoot ammo without having to adjust a valve.

 

My gun will cycle Federal Low Brass on gunfixer setting three. I've never fired Winchester or Remington low brass before. The only time I'll have an issue is if this thing won't cycle the ammo that my gunfixer/factory plug does or it allows my bolt to beat the shit out of the Trunnion while firing reasonably powered slugs.

 

My gun would run Federal bulk pack on gunfixer setting 3. It became unreliable with the auto gas plug. I wasn't expecting better performance, I was simply hoping for equal performance without the need to switch to 2 for slugs.

 

I did tighten down the screw on the auto gas plug per the instructions after the first 2 FTEs with maybe only a slight improvement.

 

I'm not dissing the auto gas plug, and I'm not some goofbat that just flew in here expecting the ability to sprinkle fix it dust in the gas system. My gun is low-gassed and I know it. After all; I did it. I'm just throwing this up as a comparison. Low gassed gun cycles federal bulk pack with Gunfixer on setting 3, but does not cycle federal bulk with the Auto gas plug.

Also, I know on the Gunfixr plug, alot of folks would back out the plug one rotation and claimed it helped gas flow. Its worth a try anyways.

[Bridis 319]

My gun would run Federal bulk pack on gunfixer setting 3. It became unreliable with the auto gas plug. I wasn't expecting better performance, I was simply hoping for equal performance without the need to switch to 2 for slugs.

 

I did tighten down the screw on the auto gas plug per the instructions after the first 2 FTEs with maybe only a slight improvement.

 

I'm not dissing the auto gas plug, and I'm not some goofbat that just flew in here expecting the ability to sprinkle fix it dust in the gas system. My gun is low-gassed and I know it. After all; I did it. I'm just throwing this up as a comparison. Low gassed gun cycles federal bulk pack with Gunfixer on setting 3, but does not cycle federal bulk with the Auto gas plug.

 

I don't recall mentioning you specifically. I'm sorry if you feel like I was pointing fingers.

[PYRO 44]

Just lighted up your photos a little,,,,,,,,,still waiting for mine to get here,,,,,,,,

[hobbyshooter 59]

Yes a stronger spring on the recoil rod assembly does in fact add resistance to the bolt carrier as it travels rearward, but for the plug, it is a different principal. A stronger spring in the plug will keep more resistance on the internal gas valve (the thing inside the plug that moves to allow gas to escape) keeping it closed so that more gas can cycle the action rather than escaping through the plug ports.

Gotcha, I'm not sure why I was thinking recoil spring.

 

Also, I know on the Gunfixr plug, alot of folks would back out the plug one rotation and claimed it helped gas flow. Its worth a try anyways.

I may try that today although I doubt I have enough room since the mid barrel brake is right in front of the plug. Now that I've free'd up the adjuster I'll try increasing the tension on the spring first.

 

I don't recall mentioning you specifically. I'm sorry if you feel like I was pointing fingers.

Since it was right after my post I figured you missed where I said my gun cycled Federal before, but stovepiped after. I'll admit, I was in quite the mood yesterday.

Edited September 16, 2010 by hobbyshooter

[sapper1371usmc 107]

Ill be putting my S12 with the TAC47 auto plug to the test today. Gonna first shoot with federal bulk to make sure its running correctly, then I will add fed 2 3/4" rifled slugs, fed low recoil 2 3/4" rifled slugs, fed 2 3/4" buck shot, fed 3" #4 shot, fed 3" #5 shot, Rem 3" #5 shot, Rem 3" #6 shot all in the mix with the bird shot to check for gas regulation. Hopefully everything goes as planned. I will report back with the results.

[epbullen 21]

The anticipation is driving me mad! Cmon postal service...

Edited September 16, 2010 by Bullensmash

[madmax4x4 68]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

I've tried many front recoil springs. A stronger spring resists cycling more. I used to use one of those before I ported the barrel. Now I use a CSS lighter power recoil spring which makes the action travel easier...

 

I know I should open the gas ports, and will likely end up doing that so I can use the auto gas plug on this gun.

 

Yes a stronger spring on the recoil rod assembly does in fact add resistance to the bolt carrier as it travels rearward, but for the plug, it is a different principal. A stronger spring in the plug will keep more resistance on the internal gas valve (the thing inside the plug that moves to allow gas to escape) keeping it closed so that more gas can cycle the action rather than escaping through the plug ports.

 

^^this^^

I was thinking of doing to same thing tac 47 did before but I had no idea what kind of gauge to make to measure psi in the gas block. It is an easy concept the hard part is coming up with the scale of the psi with the kinds of 12 ga shells. The spring and valve the key to it working. I was thinking a smaller, stronger spring a tiny bit longer in side the other srpring would bridge th gap between high and low brass would work but I think we should try it as it is first. Looks to be a good design as is.

[madmax4x4 68]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

I've tried many front recoil springs. A stronger spring resists cycling more. I used to use one of those before I ported the barrel. Now I use a CSS lighter power recoil spring which makes the action travel easier...

 

I know I should open the gas ports, and will likely end up doing that so I can use the auto gas plug on this gun.

 

Yes a stronger spring on the recoil rod assembly does in fact add resistance to the bolt carrier as it travels rearward, but for the plug, it is a different principal. A stronger spring in the plug will keep more resistance on the internal gas valve (the thing inside the plug that moves to allow gas to escape) keeping it closed so that more gas can cycle the action rather than escaping through the plug ports.

 

^^this^^

I was thinking of doing to same thing tac 47 did before but I had no idea what kind of gauge to make to measure psi in the gas block. It is an easy concept the hard part is coming up with the scale of the psi with the kinds of 12 ga shells. The spring and valve the key to it working. I was thinking a smaller, stronger spring a tiny bit longer in side the other srpring would bridge th gap between high and low brass would work but I think we should try it as it is first. Looks to be a good design as is.

[skiboatsp 111]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

I've tried many front recoil springs. A stronger spring resists cycling more. I used to use one of those before I ported the barrel. Now I use a CSS lighter power recoil spring which makes the action travel easier...

 

I know I should open the gas ports, and will likely end up doing that so I can use the auto gas plug on this gun.

 

Yes a stronger spring on the recoil rod assembly does in fact add resistance to the bolt carrier as it travels rearward, but for the plug, it is a different principal. A stronger spring in the plug will keep more resistance on the internal gas valve (the thing inside the plug that moves to allow gas to escape) keeping it closed so that more gas can cycle the action rather than escaping through the plug ports.

 

^^this^^

I was thinking of doing to same thing tac 47 did before but I had no idea what kind of gauge to make to measure psi in the gas block. It is an easy concept the hard part is coming up with the scale of the psi with the kinds of 12 ga shells. The spring and valve the key to it working. I was thinking a smaller, stronger spring a tiny bit longer in side the other srpring would bridge th gap between high and low brass would work but I think we should try it as it is first. Looks to be a good design as is.

 

Dual stage spring system....very interesting, may allow for a shorter plug.

[clifton 354]

a stronger spring would help you out. Maybe having more spring to use like the recoil springs that are sold would be a good idea.

 

I've tried many front recoil springs. A stronger spring resists cycling more. I used to use one of those before I ported the barrel. Now I use a CSS lighter power recoil spring which makes the action travel easier...

 

I know I should open the gas ports, and will likely end up doing that so I can use the auto gas plug on this gun.

 

Yes a stronger spring on the recoil rod assembly does in fact add resistance to the bolt carrier as it travels rearward, but for the plug, it is a different principal. A stronger spring in the plug will keep more resistance on the internal gas valve (the thing inside the plug that moves to allow gas to escape) keeping it closed so that more gas can cycle the action rather than escaping through the plug ports.

 

^^this^^

I was thinking of doing to same thing tac 47 did before but I had no idea what kind of gauge to make to measure psi in the gas block. It is an easy concept the hard part is coming up with the scale of the psi with the kinds of 12 ga shells. The spring and valve the key to it working. I was thinking a smaller, stronger spring a tiny bit longer in side the other srpring would bridge th gap between high and low brass would work but I think we should try it as it is first. Looks to be a good design as is.

 

Dual stage spring system....very interesting, may allow for a shorter plug.

 

 

 

we have used every spring under the sun,,, we have done dual springs.. like a wastegate... we have done.. high temp N50 rare earth opposing magnets we have tried mini nitro compression springs we did not stop until we the perfect spring.. at the perfect length and strength to live the life and do what it needs to do.

[hobbyshooter 59]

I got it to work on my low-gassed gun by incrementally tightening the spring pre-load screw.

 

I went back to the range on my extended lunch break fully prepared this time with the tool to remove the brake and a nice slotted screwdriver to tweak the auto gas plug, and the gunfixer plug.

 

I started of with the gunfixer plug to assure a control test. It spit the federal bulk pack out just as always.

 

I then removed the brake and shot 5 rounds of federal bulk pack to ensure the gun would cycle without it. They all spit out perfectly.

 

I then swapped the gunfixer cam to the auto gas plug and every round stove piped. I tried un-screwing the auto plug 1 rotation and there was no change.

 

I then tweaked the spring pre-load screw 1/4 turn at a time until it cycled. Then I put the brake on and had a fellow shooter film this:

 

I transitioned between federal bulk and remington bulk slugger with great success, which is exactly what I wanted this plug to do. With the gun fixer it would cycle too fast with the slugger on setting 3, and stovepipe the federal bulk on setting 2.

 

Thanks Tac47!

Edited September 16, 2010 by hobbyshooter

[physicsnerd 139]

Those are some very consistent hull trajectories as well.

[hobbyshooter 59]

That particular mag was all federal bulk.

[sapper1371usmc 107]

Ill be putting my S12 with the TAC47 auto plug to the test today. Gonna first shoot with federal bulk to make sure its running correctly, then I will add fed 2 3/4" rifled slugs, fed low recoil 2 3/4" rifled slugs, fed 2 3/4" buck shot, fed 3" #4 shot, fed 3" #5 shot, Rem 3" #5 shot, Rem 3" #6 shot all in the mix with the bird shot to check for gas regulation. Hopefully everything goes as planned. I will report back with the results.

 

I just returned from the range after testing my Saiga with TAC 47's auto plug. First, let me describe my gun: 2009 S12 that has had the 3 gas ports enlarged to .093", the gas block hole enlarged, the hammer reprofiled and polished, and a polished bolt and bolt carrier.

 

The results:

 

I started with Fed bulk to make sure the gun would cycle the weak stuff as it always had (this particular gun fires Winchester bulk just as reliably as Federal). The gun functioned flawless with the new plug, however the spent hulls were flinging 6ft or more. I tried tuning the plug by turning the center cap counter clockwise (to reduce the spring pressure to allow more gas to be bled off), but no matter how far I turned it, the gun was still flinging the shells further than my gunfixr plug which I could tune to get hull ejection at around 3-4ft. I turned it so much, I was actually afraid I was about to unscrew it all together. Even though it was still functioning fine, I turned it back to the nominal setting that the plug was at when I recieved it.

 

Since the bulk pack was cycling reliably, I loaded up a Surefire 8rnd Mag with a mix or the Fed Bird bulk pack, some federal L.E. buckshot, federal L.E. slugs, and federal L.E. reduced recoil slugs. All functioned great with about the same ejection path. I added some 3" turkey loads to the mix and the ejection path of those was considerably greater, flinging them out to more than 15ft.

 

Now I do have one complaint. Even after I screwed the cap back to where it was set at the factory, the cap would loosen and rotate on its own upon firing. It would rotate almost a half a turn and then I would have to turn it back. This was even firing with bird shot. It would turn much sooner with less shots fired when shooting high brass. One would think that the cap should not be able to turn.

 

Well overall, I like it for shooting 2 3/4 ammo. I will not shoot it with 3" ammo as it doesnt allow me to turn down the gas to the level the gunfixr plug does. Im not knocking it for this, as it even states in the auto plug's instructions not to fire 3" magnums, just wanted to throw that out there for folks to think about.

 

But even with all the variation in ammo fired, no damage was incurred to my S12's rear trunion. No additional wear was noted.

[hobbyshooter 59]

It took approx 3 rotations to remove my adjuster screw from its shipped setting. I haven't noticed it rotating at all during fire. I did notice a heavy amount of blue locktite on it when I removed it.

 

Maybe you should tune it to where you like it, then count the rotations to removal and blue locktite it?

Edited September 16, 2010 by hobbyshooter

[sapper1371usmc 107]

It took approx 3 rotations to remove my adjuster screw from its shipped setting. I haven't noticed it rotating at all during fire. I did notice a heavy amount of blue locktite on it when I removed it.

 

Maybe you should tune it to where you like it, then count the rotations to removal and blue locktite it?

 

Mine was loctite free.

[physicsnerd 139]

That particular mag was all federal bulk.

 

That would explain the trajectories then. I thought it was a mixed mag. But still pretty consistent given that the valve has to move every time you fire.

[clifton 354]

It took approx 3 rotations to remove my adjuster screw from its shipped setting. I haven't noticed it rotating at all during fire. I did notice a heavy amount of blue locktite on it when I removed it.

 

Maybe you should tune it to where you like it, then count the rotations to removal and blue locktite it?

 

Mine was loctite free.

 

 

Oooopsss... needs the Blue locktite.. thats My fault...

[Shadoh 16]

The valve should only move on high psi loads, not low brass bulk stuff.

[hobbyshooter 59]

That particular mag was all federal bulk.

 

That would explain the trajectories then. I thought it was a mixed mag. But still pretty consistent given that the valve has to move every time you fire.

 

Honestly on my low-gassed gun the valve probably isn't even opening when using federal bulk bird shot. Just a guess and I know I'm not the typical user.

 

It sounds like Bridis is going to have some good footage of mixed mags & ejection piles. I didn't even expect to take any video at all today as I just ran up there on my lunch break and another shooter just happened to be there waiting on his friend so I handed him my cell and asked him to film while he watched. The one thing I notice is how far the last round ejects compared to the rounds that have another round under it. Makes me think it might kick them out better with the surefire springs in those mags instead of the AGPs.

 

Either way, it doesn't matter. I'm setting this gun up for 3 gun and when under the buzzer I'll be shooting slugs and 1-1/4 oz #5 kent fast lead. I just like shooting the federal at redneck skeet & lazy day range trips.

Edited September 16, 2010 by hobbyshooter

[clifton 354]

I am glad, you like it hobby shooter, thanks for the post... we have tested the shit out of it and know its.. Good but thanks for the thanks.

[madmax4x4 68]

Mine was loctite free also that is good to know.

[PYRO 44]

Just found mine in the mail box, took some photos for those curious. It took exactly 3 turns to remove the adjusting screw and it had a small spot of blue thread lock on the edge. A question for Keith, will there be replacements for the "valve" end that is exposed to the gas? I may be wrong, but It seems that this part may eventually wear and or pit from powder burns.