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Ok so there I was...doing a really simple task (well not as simple as it is on my Mustangs)...changing the spark plugs on Racegal's 93 Blazer with the Vortec V-6. Of course, I was almost done getting them all out, down to the second to last of 6. Then it happened....what you always hope won't happen when working on an old rustbucket from up north....what felt like the spark plug breaking free was actually the damned thing breaking in half! :killer: DAMMIT!

Here's what I got...

post-1293-003791100 1284679459_thumb.jpg

As Johnboy says...NOT Too Good! Argghhhh! :chris:

 

Tried this...

post-1293-031687100 1284680334_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-068885800 1284680355_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-079141600 1284680373_thumb.jpg

 

And this...

post-1293-066978400 1284680402_thumb.jpg

 

And this...

post-1293-073510500 1284680457_thumb.jpg

 

And still I have this...

post-1293-097477000 1284680424_thumb.jpg

 

Has anyone ever used an impact wrench on an easy out? That sucka aint budging with the regular ol 1/2" drive breaker bar and iron pipe extension.

Not much room to work in that wheel well either...even after I finally coaxed the wheel off...

I don't know if that EZ out can take the torque and pressure of my impact wrench..or can it? I sure as hell don't want to break that mother off in there too.

 

Damn I don't wanna have to pull that f&@kin head because of this shit!

:angry:

 

Any of you guys ever had this happen before?

post-1293-097972200 1284679787_thumb.jpg

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Mmmmmm nope, unfortunately not. I've read about people actually using superglue with success (no really! LOL!) but I don't have much confidence in that. There's just not much of a metal on metal cont

That said, if I can find a LH tap somewhere for not too much, I'd be willing to give that a try too after soaking it for awhile. Should I get fine or coarse threaded? Which would be easier to tap. It

I have also read to heat it cherry hot, then apply candle wax. it will seep into the threads easier than penetrating oil. My 87 Sbuburban was a nightmare to get the original plugs out of last year, bu

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Ok so there I was...doing a really simple task (well not as simple as it is on my Mustangs)...changing the spark plugs on Racegal's 93 Blazer with the Vortec V-6. Of course, I was almost done getting them all out, down to the second to last of 6. Then it happened....what you always hope won't happen when working on an old rustbucket from up north....what felt like the spark plug breaking free was actually the damned thing breaking in half! :killer: DAMMIT!

Here's what I got...

post-1293-003791100 1284679459_thumb.jpg

As Johnboy says...NOT Too Good! Argghhhh! :chris:

 

Tried this...

post-1293-031687100 1284680334_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-068885800 1284680355_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-079141600 1284680373_thumb.jpg

 

And this...

post-1293-066978400 1284680402_thumb.jpg

 

And this...

post-1293-073510500 1284680457_thumb.jpg

 

And still I have this...

post-1293-097477000 1284680424_thumb.jpg

 

Has anyone ever used an impact wrench on an easy out? That sucka aint budging with the regular ol 1/2" drive breaker bar and iron pipe extension.

Not much room to work in that wheel well either...even after I finally coaxed the wheel off...

I don't know if that EZ out can take the torque and pressure of my impact wrench..or can it? I sure as hell don't want to break that mother off in there too.

 

Damn I don't wanna have to pull that f&@kin head because of this shit!

:angry:

 

Any of you guys ever had this happen before?

 

 

Damn, That sucks.

Ill get back to you on that, my girl's dad is a tech and has been working on vehicles forever. Ill ask him when I go over there after work here in 5min. maybe he'll be able to help. Good luck in the mean while.

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Mmmmmm nope, unfortunately not. I've read about people actually using superglue with success (no really! LOL!) but I don't have much confidence in that. There's just not much of a metal on metal contact area left where it broke off.

 

This was an interesting thread I found on a Ford forum...similar sounding situation....

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/44739-help-with-broken-spark-plug.html

 

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Try reinserting the spark plug then tack welding it in 2-3 places (MIG) then try to get it out. Using the impact gun on the easyout might break it or send shavings into the head. Maybe if you put a shopvac at same time as trying to drill it out...maybe.

 

Good luck, whatever you do and let us know what happened.

 

nyclu3

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tap the hole with a left handed tap, thread in our flavor of left handed bolts and torque it down until the right handed threads come loose.

 

if that don't work, drill out the old plug and chase the threads with the proper sized drill/tap combo.

 

it that don't work, drill out the and tap the hole to fit the next oversize spark plug.

 

use a mini-vac and air compressor to clear chips out of the cylinder.

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Hmmm some really good suggestions coming out. LOL@ MAkc hahahaha! I'm workin on that now Max, while watching my hometown Wolfpack kick some ass on ESPN! Woooooo!

Actually there were at least 4 dead soldiers down there when I finally said fuggit and came up to the house to run this past you guys. Thanks for all the help so far!

 

Rangerguy what's a helicoil? Need to google that I guess.

 

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tap the hole with a left handed tap, thread in our flavor of left handed bolts and torque it down until the right handed threads come loose.

 

if that don't work, drill out the old plug and chase the threads with the proper sized drill/tap combo.

 

it that don't work, drill out the and tap the hole to fit the next oversize spark plug.

 

use a mini-vac and air compressor to clear chips out of the cylinder.

 

I was gonna suggest using a left-handed tap, but I figured it may have been a bit far-fetched. But now that someone else has suggested it, I have someone else to agree with. I'd give it a try if you've got the tools. Good luck, Cobra.

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That LH tap is sounding the most doable to me at this point...if I can get in there and get it tapped in those cramped quarters... At least the one plug that broke was the easiest to get to. Now I guess I need to soak the crap out of it for a few days like Jake said, while I try and find one of those taps.

 

Still need to investigate the helicoil too.... Hey Rangerguy! Don't you wanna come up sometime this weekend and blow some shit up?? lol! :angel:

 

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Ok so there I was...doing a really simple task (well not as simple as it is on my Mustangs)...changing the spark plugs on Racegal's 93 Blazer with the Vortec V-6. Of course, I was almost done getting them all out, down to the second to last of 6. Then it happened....what you always hope won't happen when working on an old rustbucket from up north....what felt like the spark plug breaking free was actually the damned thing breaking in half! :killer: DAMMIT!

Here's what I got...

post-1293-003791100 1284679459_thumb.jpg

As Johnboy says...NOT Too Good! Argghhhh! :chris:

 

Tried this...

post-1293-031687100 1284680334_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-068885800 1284680355_thumb.jpg

 

post-1293-079141600 1284680373_thumb.jpg

 

And this...

post-1293-066978400 1284680402_thumb.jpg

 

And this...

post-1293-073510500 1284680457_thumb.jpg

 

And still I have this...

post-1293-097477000 1284680424_thumb.jpg

 

Has anyone ever used an impact wrench on an easy out? That sucka aint budging with the regular ol 1/2" drive breaker bar and iron pipe extension.

Not much room to work in that wheel well either...even after I finally coaxed the wheel off...

I don't know if that EZ out can take the torque and pressure of my impact wrench..or can it? I sure as hell don't want to break that mother off in there too.

 

Damn I don't wanna have to pull that f&@kin head because of this shit!

:angry:

 

Any of you guys ever had this happen before?

Pleanty of people have already suggested plenty of possible solutions, but I asked and he said no impact wrench. You'll more than likely brake it. Some help I was, well good luck anyway

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tap the hole with a left handed tap, thread in our flavor of left handed bolts and torque it down until the right handed threads come loose.

 

if that don't work, drill out the old plug and chase the threads with the proper sized drill/tap combo.

 

it that don't work, drill out the and tap the hole to fit the next oversize spark plug.

 

use a mini-vac and air compressor to clear chips out of the cylinder.

 

I for one would not use this method, I would fear shavings would enter the cylinder and screw up more then what it is worth.....

 

I like the Mig idea...

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If you bring the piston all the way up, drill it, stick a magnet in the hole to get the big chunks out, blow it out with compressed air, start the engine with the plug not in there for a few seconds. You will be fine. I have done this a couple of times. The big chunks are what you have to worry about.

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A heli coil is basicly a rethreading kit you drill the hole out larger and you insert this coil that is the new threads I have done a few and they work great http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E

 

And Snap on makes a broken spark plug removal kit but unless you do it all the time its not worth the cost is mainly for ford triton 5.4l and 4.6l motors and have used it on outhers works great but for a cheap way to do it the left hand tap and bolt works great in a pinch

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Thanks everyone for their input. I appreciate it. I was hoping there was some kind of magic bullet people commonly use when this happens. I figured my luck couldn't be quite bad enough that it was that rare to snap one off like this. Boy isn't now one of those times I wish all had to deal with was a pissant little broken tap in bullet guide...lol! This friggin sucks royally. I'm just glad it was the only plug that I can actually get straight on to work with the bastard.

Mig welding is not an option for me at this time, so getting it out like it is will be my plan of action. Soaking it good for a few days by coating it good with KROIL, Liquid Wrench, Marvel Mystery Oil, or PB Blaster (or maybe all of em...lol) and soaking a rag with it and stuffing it in there, then covering with plastic to keep it from evaporating, might help loosen it some...maybe... This truck is the rustiest mofo I think I've ever seen. It must have spent most of it's life totin fenderburgs around most of the year on salty roads....lol. I literally had to beat the wheel off of it even (an aluminum rim) with an 18 lb sledge hammer and block of wood....AFTER soaking it with PB for awhile. It wouldn't even budge after I took the lug nuts off. I bet those threads are almost welded to the head with rust, being where is next to the wheel well.

 

Been PMing with Rangerguy some and he and I both think it's prolly best to just drill it out til I can get really close to the threads, then try and pry it loose by driving a center punch in there and try to bend it inward. If all else fails just drill the whole damn thing out and use those helicoils to put new threads back for the plug.

 

Man...what a bitch! How can such a simple ass little job like changing the plugs turn into such a PITA. I guess I can look forward to cutting the damn oil filter off as well...oh wait! It's been lubed all it's life! :super:

 

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That said, if I can find a LH tap somewhere for not too much, I'd be willing to give that a try too after soaking it for awhile.

Should I get fine or coarse threaded? Which would be easier to tap. It's gonna be a bitch to get in there to it. I'll have to rig some kind of straight extension to turn the tap with.

Also does anyone know offhand, what the thread size for spark plugs is on a chevy V-6 head? I'll need another tap to chase the factory threads with once I get it out. I may actually have that,but not the LH one. I'm guessing I'll prolly want about a 1/2" or a little smaller for the LH one.

 

Also, Racegal's son is a NASCAR Tech grad, who won a few grand worth of automotive tools from Snapon when he graduated. He may have something I need...

 

Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

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I literally had to beat the wheel off of it even (an aluminum rim) with an 18 lb sledge hammer and block of wood....AFTER soaking it with PB for awhile. It wouldn't even budge after I took the lug nuts off. I bet those threads are almost welded to the head with rust, being where is next to the wheel well.

 

I had a '75 Grand Prix (loved that car) where the wheels would stick like that. Found out the trick is to loosen all of the lug nuts and then run the car back & forth a few times hitting the brakes hard. That cracks 'em loose.

 

Good luck on the fubar plug.

 

Edit: Should have added to only do one stuck wheel at a time this way and make sure the lug nuts are almost to where they would tighten against the wheel (not just hanging by the last thread on the stud). This method does work well for stuck/seized on wheels.

Edited by Spartacus
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I have also read to heat it cherry hot, then apply candle wax. it will seep into the threads easier than penetrating oil. My 87 Sbuburban was a nightmare to get the original plugs out of last year, but thankfully, none of them broke. When you put the new plugs in - ANTI-SIEZE! I use it on absolutely everything anymore. I had no problems pulling the plugs and most of the fastners on my 67 Coronet. They just keep using cheaper hardware as every year passes. (my burban looked about as rusty as your pics), but just on the engine and outer body. lol. Try the candle wax, what do you have to lose? It's been an old staple for awhile.

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That said, if I can find a LH tap somewhere for not too much, I'd be willing to give that a try too after soaking it for awhile.

Should I get fine or coarse threaded? Which would be easier to tap. It's gonna be a bitch to get in there to it. I'll have to rig some kind of straight extension to turn the tap with.

Also does anyone know offhand, what the thread size for spark plugs is on a chevy V-6 head? I'll need another tap to chase the factory threads with once I get it out. I may actually have that,but not the LH one. I'm guessing I'll prolly want about a 1/2" or a little smaller for the LH one.

 

Also, Racegal's son is a NASCAR Tech grad, who won a few grand worth of automotive tools from Snapon when he graduated. He may have something I need...

 

Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

 

Any machine shop supplier, specialty bolt store or any REAL hardware store should have your LH tap which shouldn't cost any more then a right handed tap. I'm not sure that a fine or coarse thread will make much difference, although a fine thread may be easier to get started straight in your situation.

 

I would measure the hole you have then drill it out to the next available tap size, that way you get a good clean hole to tap and make strong threads to torque on.

 

Good luck.

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