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EASY Gas Block Removal/Reinstallation


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I recently redid my ports, and quickly ran into problems. I could not budge my gas block. I tried rubber mallets, 2x4's, and even a shelf bracket wrapped in duct tape. Then, while I was rooting through my toolbox, I came upon my pneumatic hammer from Harbor Freight.

 

image_222.jpg

 

Removal:

I used the flat chisel bit (installed in the picture) and placed it against the shoulder just behind where the hand grip bolt attaches. I tried to post a picture of this, but apparently I can't use Facebook links. (The only way I can get pictures on the computer from my phone) I'll try and edit one in at a later time. To actually remove the gas block, I placed the muzzle on a board on a concrete floor, (I reinstalled my original thread protector for this) placed the bit on the shoulder at about a 30 degree angle, and carefully applied pressure while squeezing the trigger. The block slid right off.

 

Reinstallation:

You will notice that on the opposite side of the hand grip hole, there is another shoulder. It's like they were put there just for this purpose. However, I was worried about starting the block at an angle and causing it to dig into the barrel and bind up. There is a simple solution for this. I turned my oven to 225 degrees and cooked my gas block for about 20 minutes. Once it was heated, I grabbed it with a leather glove, applied some oil along the inside edge, and slid it almost halfway on before it cooled and contracted. I then used the air hammer to drive it into place, and a rubber mallet to make sure it was in line. I reassembled the gun and was good to go.

 

I hope this little writeup helps. Enlarging my ports was the best thing I have done yet for my Saiga.

 

Edit: I'm having trouble adding pictures since I'm stuck using my phone for everything. If you go to Photobucket.com and search "JoeAldrich" you will see the pictures I was trying to upload. I only have 8 pictures total, so the ones of the gas block removal are easy to find. Of course, I didn't drive the block off with the barrel resting in the grass. I took these pictures after I had done the work just to show where and how I used the hammer to get the block off. I'm glad people are finding my tip useful, and if anyone is in the mid-Michigan area I am more than happy to help you out.

Edited by JoeAldrich
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The pictures don't show too much, they just helped illustrate what I meant by "shoulder." If you pop your hand guard off, you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. The bit didn't do much damage to the block. It chewed some paint off, but I shot it with some Duplicolor engine enamel and it looks fine. Once my handguard is on, its completely hidden anyways. I've done this twice to my gun now, and I have not had problems with it.

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that is great, i only wish i had a chipping hammer! also i would think you could put a piece of steel on the gas block and hammer it to keep from buggering up the gas block. did it scratch the barrel at all?, ive been needing to open my ports but thats the main reason why i havent messed with it b/c i dont want to have to mess with refinishing the whole gun. how did your barrel look after removing and reinstalltion?

 

 

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Removal:

I used the flat chisel bit (installed in the picture) and placed it against the shoulder just behind where the hand grip bolt attaches. I tried to post a picture of this, but apparently I can't use Facebook links. (The only way I can get pictures on the computer from my phone) I'll try and edit one in at a later time. To actually remove the gas block, I placed the muzzle on a board on a concrete floor, (I reinstalled my original thread protector for this) placed the bit on the shoulder at about a 30 degree angle, and carefully applied pressure while squeezing the trigger. The block slid right off.

 

Reinstallation:

You will notice that on the opposite side of the hand grip hole, there is another shoulder. It's like they were put there just for this purpose. However, I was worried about starting the block at an angle and causing it to dig into the barrel and bind up. There is a simple solution for this. I turned my oven to 225 degrees and cooked my gas block for about 20 minutes. Once it was heated, I grabbed it with a leather glove, applied some oil along the inside edge, and slid it almost halfway on before it cooled and contracted. I then used the air hammer to drive it into place, and a rubber mallet to make sure it was in line. I reassembled the gun and was good to go.

 

I hope this little writeup helps. Enlarging my ports was the best thing I have done yet for my Saiga.

 

Man, that is really smart! :smoke:

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that is great, i only wish i had a chipping hammer! also i would think you could put a piece of steel on the gas block and hammer it to keep from buggering up the gas block. did it scratch the barrel at all?, ive been needing to open my ports but thats the main reason why i havent messed with it b/c i dont want to have to mess with refinishing the whole gun. how did your barrel look after removing and reinstalltion?

 

The air hammer was $9 at harbor freight. You have no excuse to not get one :) As for having to refinish, unless you screw up and run the bit somewhere its not supposed to go, you won't have to paint anything. I did not have any scratches on my barrel, and what little refinishing I did was totally unnecessary. However, if you do want to repaint something, Duplicolor flat black engine enamel #1634 will match the factory finish almost perfectly. I used it to cover the bare spots after my conversions and the paint line is almost invisible.

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+1-this works very well. I usually use aluminum or brass scrap against the block as a buffer to keep from chewing on it.

 

 

I usually use aluminum or brass scrap against the block as a buffer to keep from chewing on it. +1 :secret_smile: Excellent!

 

Once you remove the gas block the barrel can be polished to establish a light press fit to make any future removal eaisier.

 

Use molly or anti sieze when installing.

Edited by saigatechusa
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Do you also use the air hammer (with the pointed bit) to drive out rivets when you're doing conversions?

I use a regular hammer & punch.

It only takes 2 whacks.

 

Good utilization of the air hammer. :up:

 

I'll have to try that method.

I use my 20 ton press, but the air hammer would be even easier, because I have to remove stocks to fit guns in my press.

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o

Dude, e-mail the pics to yourself, then save the pic from your e-mail to your computer, then upload from your computer to photobucket.

 

C'mon, my cheap-ass LG NV2 can do that... :blues:

 

Since my computer took a dive off my desk, I have been operating exclusively from my Samsung Moment Android phone1. It let me upload the picture from Harbor Freight's website, but every other time I've tried I get an error message. I've used pictures from Facebook, photobucket, and my Gmail account and I get a message saying I cannot upload that file type. My Photobucket name is JoeAldrich if you want to check out the pics there. I think outsiders can look at my pics, I just made the account and I only have a few photos online that I uploaded from my phone. Again, the directions are pretty self explanitory, but feel free to check them out. There are also some other shots of my gun, a CTS-V in a parking lot in town, and a nice DeLorean that passed me on the highway. Enjoy!

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o

Dude, e-mail the pics to yourself, then save the pic from your e-mail to your computer, then upload from your computer to photobucket.

 

C'mon, my cheap-ass LG NV2 can do that... :blues:

 

Since my computer took a dive off my desk, I have been operating exclusively from my Samsung Moment Android phone1. It let me upload the picture from Harbor Freight's website, but every other time I've tried I get an error message. I've used pictures from Facebook, photobucket, and my Gmail account and I get a message saying I cannot upload that file type. My Photobucket name is JoeAldrich if you want to check out the pics there. I think outsiders can look at my pics, I just made the account and I only have a few photos online that I uploaded from my phone. Again, the directions are pretty self explanitory, but feel free to check them out. There are also some other shots of my gun, a CTS-V in a parking lot in town, and a nice DeLorean that passed me on the highway. Enjoy!

 

Oh man, I'm sorry, I assumed that you were on a computer... I guess that saying about assuming is right.

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No need for apologies, it is understandable to assume that someone posting on an internet forum is doing so from a legit computer. I should have one before too long. I don't think my gun needs anything in the near future... but I guess I shouldn't assume anything at this point. :P

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For rivets, I find a large,SHARP cold chisel and a 3# hammer will make short work of them! When using an air hammer to drive the gasblock off, blunt the chisel on the grinder and use a brass,aluminum, or plastic piece to hammer on.

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L<a href="http://s1120.photobucket.com/albums/l490/JoeAldrich/?action=view&current=2010-09-17191614.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l490/JoeAldrich/2010-09-17191614.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

Edit: image post fail... I need a real computer.

Edited by JoeAldrich
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It probably wouldn't hurt to turn your air pressure way down and then work up to a higher pressure until you had enough instead of just hitting the block with 90 PSI right off the bat. Just a thought.

There is a regulator built into the gun. Its the little knob right behind the air inlet. I left it on full power and controlled the gun with the trigger. Its pretty easy to start gently and work your way up. Once you get everything in place, you'll want the full power of the gun to keep things moving. (Unless you have a big beastly air hammer... the Harbor Freight one is just a little guy.

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  • 5 months later...

If you want to free up a hand while doing it, take a piece of brass or copper pipe, flatten it in your press or a vice, then cut or grind off one side.

Split it like a clamshell a tiny bit & insert your chisel bit, now you have an instant soft tipped chisel & you don't have to hold a punch. It frees up a hand & cant slip off & get your hand with the chisel while using it. :up:

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  • 9 months later...

Thanks JoeAldrich, I am trying to get mine back on right now. Used a 1/8 inch piece of steel. It was a bitch and bent the hell out of the steel. So guess where Im headed to right now.

 

No problem, i'm glad my information helped someone. Did you try cooling the gun and heating the gas block? I did that and it slid on about halfway before everything locked up. You can also put a little bit of oil on the barrel to help things slide together.

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Thanks JoeAldrich, I am trying to get mine back on right now. Used a 1/8 inch piece of steel. It was a bitch and bent the hell out of the steel. So guess where Im headed to right now.

 

No problem, i'm glad my information helped someone. Did you try cooling the gun and heating the gas block? I did that and it slid on about halfway before everything locked up. You can also put a little bit of oil on the barrel to help things slide together.

 

Not yet. I sanded the gas block and repainted it. Paint was still drying when I had to go to work. Im for sure going to try it tomorrow.

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