Can you pull the trigger too fast

[Deadeye 325]

Dumping the drumm last time out I had several times when the hammer eather did not reset or it followed the carrier home. Did not fire. Is that what was going on? Can someone explain this?

[Deadeye 325]

sorry for the double post I had an error and thought it did not work

[TwentyNizzo 66]

Check your disconnector. The hammer should catch even if the trigger is depressed. I wouldn't fire it again until you get the issue resolved.

[MikeD 541]

It my pre-ffl days it wasn't uncommon while bump firing to pull the trigger too fast. The hammer would hit the safety on the bolt carrier. What ever you call that it... But you should test the disconnector.

[Paulyski 2,227]

Last time out dumping the drum had several times when the hammer did not reset or followed the carrier home. Is that possible? Can someone explain this?

 

Your disconnecter didn't engage the hammer.

That's not a good thing. It's bad.

Any way you're around the Portland area?

I can help you take a look at it & see what's going on if you are.

 

If not, what have you had done or done to your FCG?

Have you tried to profile the hammer yourself? Tried to mess with the bottom of your carrier?

What kind of FCG are you running?

Are you running a doublehook?

How much has the gun been shot?

[BuzzNectar 35]

if your using a tapco g2,then yes.if your fast enough you most definetly can outrun the disconnector on the g2 causing the hammer to ride the bolt.its happened to me on 2 century builds,3 saiga conversions done by me(2 s-12's 1 762x39)and a yugo m70 built by a local gunsmith.

[Deadeye 325]

How do I check the disconector. I removed the bolt carrier and all seemed to be working right. tested the hammer a fiew times It resets rite

[Deadeye 325]

Last time out dumping the drum had several times when the hammer did not reset or followed the carrier home. Is that possible? Can someone explain this?

 

Your disconnecter didn't engage the hammer.

That's not a good thing. It's bad.

Any way you're around the Portland area?

I can help you take a look at it & see what's going on if you are.

 

If not, what have you had done or done to your FCG?

Have you tried to profile the hammer yourself? Tried to mess with the bottom of your carrier?

What kind of FCG are you running?

Are you running a doublehook?

How much has the gun been shot?

Gun is all stock about 200 down the pipe

[Paulyski 2,227]

Last time out dumping the drum had several times when the hammer did not reset or followed the carrier home. Is that possible? Can someone explain this?

 

Your disconnecter didn't engage the hammer.

That's not a good thing. It's bad.

Any way you're around the Portland area?

I can help you take a look at it & see what's going on if you are.

 

If not, what have you had done or done to your FCG?

Have you tried to profile the hammer yourself? Tried to mess with the bottom of your carrier?

What kind of FCG are you running?

Are you running a doublehook?

How much has the gun been shot?

Gun is all stock about 200 down the pipe

I'd send it in for warranty work or convert it.

If you're dead set against converting, you could take the FCG out with a punch & hammer, polish all contact surfaces & pins so none of the connecting levers can hang up then put it back together, oil well & try it again.

 

If you're planning to convert & around North Portland some time, just stop by I can do the FCG job for you for free if you bring one with you if you're converting any time soon.

 

 

Personally I aim, even when doing drum dumps, so don't pull it as fast as some.

 

The only time I've run into the issue you're having was because I had shot several thousand rounds of high brass through My converted gun & the disconnecter wore to an edge then a shard broke off & hung down preventing the disconnecter from grabbing the hammer's sear.

[BuzzNectar 35]

Last time out dumping the drum had several times when the hammer did not reset or followed the carrier home. Is that possible? Can someone explain this?

 

Your disconnecter didn't engage the hammer.

That's not a good thing. It's bad.

Any way you're around the Portland area?

I can help you take a look at it & see what's going on if you are.

 

If not, what have you had done or done to your FCG?

Have you tried to profile the hammer yourself? Tried to mess with the bottom of your carrier?

What kind of FCG are you running?

Are you running a doublehook?

How much has the gun been shot?

Gun is all stock about 200 down the pipe

I'd send it in for warranty work or convert it.

If you're dead set against converting, you could take the FCG out with a punch & hammer, polish all contact surfaces & pins so none of the connecting levers can hang up then put it back together, oil well & try it again.

 

If you're planning to convert & around North Portland some time, just stop by I can do the FCG job for you for free if you bring one with you if you're converting any time soon.

 

 

Personally I aim, even when doing drum dumps, so don't pull it as fast as some.

 

The only time I've run into the issue you're having was because I had shot several thousand rounds of high brass through My converted gun & the disconnecter wore to an edge then a shard broke off & hung down preventing the disconnecter from grabbing the hammer's sear.

damn pauly,as busy as you are and willing to slick up a trigger for a brother in need for free....= hell of a guy

[Deadeye 325]

I am doing the conversion next what trigger kit should I get? ther are just a lot of options I plan on makeing my own wood furniture.

[geepelton 105]

I try and try but I can never pull my fast enough.

[Deadeye 325]

Did not seem that fast

[Paulyski 2,227]

I am doing the conversion next what trigger kit should I get? ther are just a lot of options I plan on makeing my own wood furniture.

 

 

Whichever.

 

Most people do the Tromix Modified Tapco because it comes with everything needed.

CSS is out of them at the moment, butMAA has them in stock.

Or you could get a standard tapco G-2, but it'd take a little while longer.

Or Texas AK, or Arsenal's S-12 trigger, but arsenal's is kind of weird how the trigger hook rides so high up in the ejector slot in the carrier.

 

Tapcos are cheap if you ever shoot enough to wear out the disconnecter like I did, & I slick them up good & the hammer & trigger part doesn't wear out. The part that takes the biggest beating on any FCG is the disconnecter, so personally I'd go with a tapco, either the Tromix or regular, then buy everything else & whatnot.

 

 

Did not seem that fast

yeah, I don't like the sound of your situation.

Sounds like something is going wrong in your FCG in there.

 

I've come across a couple of extractors where the russians drilled too deep & slightly punched through. I wouldn't be too shocked if they drilled your disconnecter hole too deep.

[Deadeye 325]

I am doing the conversion next what trigger kit should I get? ther are just a lot of options I plan on makeing my own wood furniture.

 

 

Whichever.

 

Most people do the Tromix Modified Tapco because it comes with everything needed.

CSS is out of them at the moment, butMAA has them in stock.

Or you could get a standard tapco G-2, but it'd take a little while longer.

Or Texas AK, or Arsenal's S-12 trigger, but arsenal's is kind of weird how the trigger hook rides so high up in the ejector slot in the carrier.

 

Tapcos are cheap if you ever shoot enough to wear out the disconnecter like I did, & I slick them up good & the hammer & trigger part doesn't wear out. The part that takes the biggest beating on any FCG is the disconnecter, so personally I'd go with a tapco, either the Tromix or regular, then buy everything else & whatnot.

 

 

Did not seem that fast

yeah, I don't like the sound of your situation.

Sounds like something is going wrong in your FCG in there.

 

I've come across a couple of extractors where the russians drilled too deep & slightly punched through. I wouldn't be too shocked if they drilled your disconnecter hole too deep.

I am going look the bolt and disconector realy close and see what I can figure out. then post later

[JAldrich2008 28]

I had this same problem. The shells were hanging up just slightly as they chambered and caused the carrier to lag slightly just before closing. If I pulled the trigger in that time, the hammer would hit the carrier and not fire the round. I rounded my extractor slot a little and polished my and bolt, and I haven't had any problems since.

[Paulyski 2,227]

I am doing the conversion next what trigger kit should I get? ther are just a lot of options I plan on makeing my own wood furniture.

 

 

Whichever.

 

Most people do the Tromix Modified Tapco because it comes with everything needed.

CSS is out of them at the moment, butMAA has them in stock.

Or you could get a standard tapco G-2, but it'd take a little while longer.

Or Texas AK, or Arsenal's S-12 trigger, but arsenal's is kind of weird how the trigger hook rides so high up in the ejector slot in the carrier.

 

Tapcos are cheap if you ever shoot enough to wear out the disconnecter like I did, & I slick them up good & the hammer & trigger part doesn't wear out. The part that takes the biggest beating on any FCG is the disconnecter, so personally I'd go with a tapco, either the Tromix or regular, then buy everything else & whatnot.

 

 

Did not seem that fast

yeah, I don't like the sound of your situation.

Sounds like something is going wrong in your FCG in there.

 

I've come across a couple of extractors where the russians drilled too deep & slightly punched through. I wouldn't be too shocked if they drilled your disconnecter hole too deep.

I am going look the bolt and disconector realy close and see what I can figure out. then post later

This is what I'm talking about, check this thread;

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/33939-tapco-g2-trigger-recall/

 

If it's drilled too deep & you don't have enough tension on the spring, you won't be able to see it without disasemblimg the factory triggerhooks from the disconnecter.

 

Your overtravel limiter may not be set correctly also.

[Shadoh 16]

Its funny, a friend of mine and I were just talking about this in Emails earlier tonight. I told him that you can actually pull the trigger to fast on these guns and that Ive actually had that happen to me. He came back and told me that I had a runaway and should check out my gun. I had to explain to him that I didnt have a runaway and that I know what that is. I have the Tromix FCG and I dont know if all FCGs are the same but on that set up you can in fact do it. Its only happened to me twice and both times it was during a dump where all I cared about was dumping as fast as I could. When I fired the gun the carrier would move to the rear of the gun while I reset the trigger. When the carrier moves forward I pulled the trigger before it was all the way forward. The gun then wont fire as the hammer is already dropped. When I remove the shell it has a tiny dimple on the primer.

 

If you EMPTY and CLEAR your gun you can test this and see if its possible on your gun. Manually pull your carrier all the way to the rear. Very slowly move the carrier forward again and pull the trigger every 1/4 inch or so. Im betting your gun will drop the hammer a good 2 inches before the carrier is all the way forward.

 

My gun has NEVER fired more than one round with one pull of the trigger.

[Deadeye 325]

I not shure what the overtravel limmiter looks like. hopefully new trigger and conversion will solve the problem. Thanks for all the help

[RRice 34]

I will second what joe just said.I just got my tomix s17 back from tony and he did the SRT and replaced the disco spring.I had the same thing the OP is describing happen to my s17 and my other s12 on saturday(it has done this many times before)while using MD drums.The carrier is dragging the upcoming shell,slowing the gun going into battery,you pull the trigger and the hammer rides the carrier leaving you with a live round in the chamber and an unlocked hammer.Try and "out shoot" one of these guns with an AGP mag.It wont happen.

[Guns Are Great 140]

I think this has only happened to me 1 or 2 times? With drum mags only? and this sounds like what happened??

I will second what joe just said.I just got my tomix s17 back from tony and he did the SRT and replaced the disco spring.I had the same thing the OP is describing happen to my s17 and my other s12 on saturday(it has done this many times before)while using MD drums.The carrier is dragging the upcoming shell,slowing the gun going into battery,you pull the trigger and the hammer rides the carrier leaving you with a live round in the chamber and an unlocked hammer.Try and "out shoot" one of these guns with an AGP mag.It wont happen.

[Redemption 5]

My gun didn't come with an over travel limiter. I think that was an option along with the flux capacitor and I opted out.

[RRice 34]

I think this has only happened to me 1 or 2 times? With drum mags only? and this sounds like what happened??

I will second what joe just said.I just got my tomix s17 back from tony and he did the SRT and replaced the disco spring.I had the same thing the OP is describing happen to my s17 and my other s12 on saturday(it has done this many times before)while using MD drums.The carrier is dragging the upcoming shell,slowing the gun going into battery,you pull the trigger and the hammer rides the carrier leaving you with a live round in the chamber and an unlocked hammer.Try and "out shoot" one of these guns with an AGP mag.It wont happen.

 

What he is describing has happened to me and several of my friends I shoot with(one is a regular here I will IM him this thread)many times.To clear this up,it has happened to me with drums only and it doesn't have to happen while I am doing full drum dumps.It happens if I rip off 4-5 rounds really quickly.

[setlab 11]

edit: never mind

Edited March 31, 2011 by setlab

[Paulyski 2,227]

My gun didn't come with an over travel limiter. I think that was an option along with the flux capacitor and I opted out.

Was your gun in factory configuration when you got it & someone converted it for you?

If not, what do you call the extra piece other than the trigger hooks, sleeve & disconnecter in the pieces that the trigger axis pin goes through on a factory configured gun?

You know, the little grey piece?

Did the Russians just put it in select guns & not yours?

You know what I'm talking about right?

The little piece that the Axis gos through & the ear sits under the trigger hook, to .... What does it do again? Limit overtravel of the factory trigger hooks?

 

Being as you said "this is a new horse but it ain't your first rodeo" & "You've been building AKs since before it was cool", I'd expect you'd know that before coming here to bust my balls for trying to help a member figure out exactly why his gun may malfunctioning.

 

You're aware of what "BASED off of the AK platform" means, right? It means it's similar in concept & design, but it ain't the same.

 

Also, if you're converted, use a doublehook FCG & grind the bottom off of the right hook (you know, the one that there's no slot for) until the trigger gos as far as you want it to & no further.

Or... Use a doublehook & cut the second slot in the bottom of the receiver to the right length to set your trigger pull.

 

Then you too will have an overtravel limiter.

 

I can't help you with the flux capacitor though.

 

But If it's "flux" you're after, I could weld a spot on your singlehook with FLUX cored wire to make you another style of overtravel limiter.

 

Now since all you've been doing since you got here is spreading bad information due to your lack of understanding of the gun that you just got & screwed up a couple weeks ago, please feel free to find another dog to follow around biting his ass in an attempt to get to the tit thank you very much.

 

Pauly.

[Redemption 5]

Touchy little scrote aren't we.