JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 I know others have hard-chromed their BCG's, but I went all-out. My converted Saiga-12 now has the Tromix modified Tapco G2 FCG, BHO lever, bolt, and bolt carrier all nickel plated. I've read requests from others wanting pictures of this, so here you go guys! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted July 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 (edited) Pretty cool, but it looks like these parts were nickel plated at OEM dimensions. That kind of makes it difficult to polish/relieve the bolt etc for better function with low brass, doesn't it? Hope your gun already runs perfectly, or get ready for some gas system work. It does look purdy though... Edited July 5, 2011 by post-apocalyptic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Tight! I like it. I want to gold plate my trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 ...I want to gold plate my trigger. Yeah, you would. I don't think you can do that with any legitimacy unless you're an African/Middle Eastern dictator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 ...I want to gold plate my trigger. Yeah, you would. I don't think you can do that with any legitimacy unless you're an African/Middle Eastern dictator. Just because she has some class doesn't mean she can't whoop ass. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
schultze13 354 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Here you go Pauly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jeluvsk 58 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 LOL, now thats some BLING!! Put a bail on the end of that and wear it pride... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted July 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Pretty cool, but it looks like these parts were nickel plated at OEM dimensions. That kind of makes it difficult to polish/relieve the bolt etc for better function with low brass, doesn't it? Hope your gun already runs perfectly, or get ready for some gas system work. It does look purdy though... Actually, I had already put about 12 hours of reshaping/polishing time in before plating. Turns out nickel is the opposite of paint- only sticks to 'mirror shine' surfaces. I know it doesn't look like I did much at all, but I was worried about throwing the timing off by removing too much material, so I took it easy. Did run into an issue with the added material, though: All sharp corners build-up more quickly than the curved surfaces. I did not know this... So while I was reassembling the BCG last night, I damn near had a heart failure when the bolt would not go into the carrier. 20 minutes of buffing later, and all was well! She already fed Remington and Federal bulk without issue, so hopefully the few extra mil's wont hurt... Only one way to find out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Here you go Pauly. Nah, I'd say trigger, axis pins & maybe carrier at the most. Small accents look better than the whole thing. The whole thing just looks gaudy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 ^^^That gun just screams "Where is the Bitches". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Cool! Just curious, doesnt nickel discolor and have a tendency to peel over time? I have seen some older nickel guns do this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Cool! Just curious, doesnt nickel discolor and have a tendency to peel over time? I have seen some older nickel guns do this. To be honest, I'm not sure of the longevity of the nickel.. I was certainly surprised at how difficult it was to remove the excess build-up from the process though. On the rear of the bolt, I actually had to bust out the Dremel (120gr) abrasive pads. From what I was told, flaking occurs from imperfections in the base metal as well as the temperature it is run at (stainless needs plated at higher temps apparently?) I would imagine that the quality of the nickel itself would be crucial, but I am far from an expert on the subject.. As far as discoloration, I think it is the result of oxidation? I believe a chrome polish or compound of that nature will bring it back to the same (or close to the same) shine. There's always a chance that I'm dead wrong- I'm not the one who did the plating. I was interested in the idea and had heard others were curious, so I've sacrificed my S12 for science. How about this, Pauly: Black nickel finish on barrel, receiver, safety, and mag release; gray laminate furniture set; nickel BCG, FCG, and BHO; and bright nickel on axis pins and trigger guard? Or maybe I've just got a two-tone fetish... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 How about this, Pauly: Black nickel finish on barrel, receiver, safety, and mag release; gray laminate furniture set; nickel BCG, FCG, and BHO; and bright nickel on axis pins and trigger guard? Or maybe I've just got a two-tone fetish... That'd be really cool. Still saying gold plate the trigger though for the accent. It would wear off with heavy use, but I do like the special addition look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 To bad we couldnt just get some stainless or some crazy metal parts made instead of plating.Im with pauly on the gold trigger says "ya im a little gangster but, i have class" lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 To bad we couldnt just get some stainless or some crazy metal parts made instead of plating.Im with pauly on the gold trigger says "ya im a little gangster but, i have class" lol Hell yeah! Classy gangsters from back in the day, like Dillinger! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grommit666 24 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Just curious, does this have any functional effect? Is it smoother, more resistant to corrosion, etc.? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JK-47 33 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 I like it, reminds me of the T-800 terminators. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) Just curious, does this have any functional effect? Is it smoother, more resistant to corrosion, etc.? That's the idea, at least. Since the nickel would only properly 'stick' to perfectly smooth surfaces, everything had to be smooth to begin with. Here's a before picture: The left-over casting lines were a serious PITA to get out, but you can see my reflection clear as day in that trigger. Took more than I thought to get it that smooth. So the idea is that the nickel should be equally as smooth and adds wear resistance to contact surfaces. It also wont scratch like the OEM finish. Granted that stuff is tough as hell, but you can't noticably marr the nickel without seriously trying. In addition to all that, no solvent can remove it. Hell, I used brake cleaner to remove polishing compound where it needed cleaned up! And most importantly: It's shiny!! Edited July 9, 2011 by JonnyDingDongs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 So what did this set you back if you dont mind me asking? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 So what did this set you back if you dont mind me asking? $Free.Fifty-free. As I asked around for a good metal finishing company, I discovered that a really good friend's father was the manager at a local place. The whole, "I know a guy who knows a guy" thing had me kinda nervous, but it came out pretty well I think. Since he did me such a good favor, I found out that he fly-fishes and gave him an assortment of flies I've had piling up for years. Cleaned up part of a table and got my parts done in one shot. I'd call that a win! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Heath_h49008 442 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Hmmm... black chrome.... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Wow that really turned out great man! It's a lot of work but you can get almost the same look by just polishing all the parts (for those who don't have great contacts like that, or funds to plate parts). I take out the casting lines where they are an issue, like on the hammer face. All could be done pretty easily though. The nickel turned out really nice looking though, and should stay looking that way for a long time unless it eventually wears off on the contact surfaces. I would be concerned with adding even the smallest amount of thickness to some of the surfaces. Even when I polish, there are some that only get lightly touched and only then on the flats. Glad to see someone finally did plate them all in something though, as long as people have been talking about it. I've heard about everything from nickel to that so called titanium gold coating you see on drill bits, but have yet to see anyone actually do it. Like I said, I always thought the build up would cause issues. I'm glad you were able to counter that. How does she run? I don't have the money to send stuff in for plating, but here's a poor man's bling job on a G-2 I did with a bunch of others getting the standard re-profile and polish. I could get it better with a few more stages of polish and buff, but it's do for now. +1 on the gold trigger Pauly, but just there IMO. As for black chrome..... What about a few coats of cold blue after a high polish...considering it would work on the sealed polish surface. I've done that before on lightly polished surfaces, and it did leave a sort of black chrome look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Well that actually just gave me an idea! I have a friend that works for a company doing different coatings for machines in factories. These coatings are supposed to increase the longevity and contact surfaces on metal to metal action! Going to look into this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyDingDongs 158 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 Well, I'm afraid I have some unfortunate news on the plating. I told the guy to only plate up to the end of the bolt carrier and to stop at the threads of the operating rod, as this is where the major stress is at. The plated-on material is not going to flex or even withstand the brute force of the piston repeatedly slamming into it. He apparently forgot this and plated the whole thing.. I noticed it, but hoped it would not be an issue. I forgot, however, that the end of the operating rod was far from smooth (I never touched it) and was therefore not suitable for plating. Mag-dumped ~40 rounds and checked all the parts this afternoon and all was good. After another 60 rounds, the trouble started. The nickel on the foremost face of the operating rod chipped and began flaking into the gas tube and back through the action. This isn't too terrible, though. I hadn't even wanted that surface plated to begin with. Then I saw the bolt.. Sorry- no new pictures, but this shows where it had chipped. Right at the corner. I was warned about the corners. Any sharp, flat, or protruding surface will be prone to excess build-up and that is what caused it. Being too tight in the lugs and under the force of a 12ga. shotshell going off, there's only going to be one result. Had I known this would be an issue, I would have removed more material and eliminated any superfluous sharp edges. It is possible to strip the plating back off and start over, but that might wait until winter if I do it at all. The other points of failure were: Again, any sharp corner. These did not actually chip or flake, fortunately. The nickel began to deform and has already been buffed and rounded over, so this may no longer be an issue. The entire FCG still looks the same, but considering the difference in exerted forces that is hardly surprising. So it looks like it might have been fine if I had understood the process a little better. Live and learn. Good Lord, Cobra- that's like an entire week's pay for me sitting on one table. And looking pretty damned sparkly! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 Thanks Johnny. Damn I'm sorry to see the nickel having issues. Hopefully you can get it worked out without having to start all over. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 Bummer. I really was hoping it would prove more durable. But, the trigger will still continue to look great & will never corrode. If it continues to chip, the 30XPA chrome-manganese steel that the bolt & carrier are made of is extremely resistant to corrosion with very, very little maintenance when highly polished. If resurfaced it can be finished to a brilliance that simply cannot EVER chip off because it's the steel it's self rather than plating People swear it's chrome plated when done right; Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) Edited July 10, 2011 by evlblkwpnz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 paulys steelin 1[/color].jpg] there.... fixed it[/color].JPG] According to the titles of the pictures, this picture is one of my hammers; They're not highly polished on the face like that picture shows. They never have been & that's intentional. It's to preserve capillary action for superior lubrication retention if one uses light oils rather than light greases that I recommend for metal to metal shear surfaces. I realize that some people are just going to grab Hopps or CLP for their weapons. That's why I generally don't post pictures of my hammers. They're not eye-candy like the highly polished areas of the bolt that come in contact with the plastic hulls but the resultant function works better. This is the same reason I began jeweling the bottoms of my carriers. It provides better capillary action without compromising the smoothness of finish if people choose to use thin oil as lube. Thank you for alerting me to the need to tell my customers not to mess up my hammers faces by polishing them any further than they are upon receipt. It never occurred to me that anybody would do such a thing. To my customers; Please don't mirror polish the face of GlassBolt's hammers after you receive them. They're like they are for a very good reason. Some places benefit from a high polish for function, some places benefit from being very smooth, but not completely sealed. Please don't remove this functional aspect from my hammers & continue to call it GlassBolt. Thank you. Pauly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 Everything runs fine and I am sure that you have seen my videos in which I might log a couple hundred rounds in a few minutes. Yes, it takes quite a bit more time to get them like this and probably would not coincide with turning a profit on the service. It takes me an extremely long time to go through a weapon, but what I do is extremely detailed and meticulous. Not doing it for a living, I am not going for speed. Being a business owner, I can certainly understand your point and it's your business, you do it like you want to. Please do not take offense, but it just doesn't look like what I would imagine being the highest quality in the industry, the profile or the polish. Please bear in mind that I have not seen everyone's work, so it may well be the absolute bestest commercially available friction reduction service on the planet, for all I know. I also understand what you mean by making the metal "hold" lube. However, after the weapon is fired and debris starts to enter the action, it "scuffs" the surfaces somewhat in the areas where there is contact, enabling them to "hold" lube. It makes it very obvious where the parts actually need lube and allows myself or others to just put a thin layer on the contact areas by hand. I run ARs wet, but like to keep the lubing to a minimum with my S12s since they tend to see much more abuse and are far more likely to see sand, dirt, etc.. menace's S12 ran great with my highly polished carrier, reprofiled and highly polished hammer, and a thin layer of Breakfree. We went through a few hundred rounds in very little time and he was impressed with it. Different schools of thought between you and I, that is all. I think the situation that your premise is of far greater significance is when employed in a internal combustion engine or other tight tolerance surface interaction (cylinder walls, main bearings, etc.). In an AK based shotgun where the hammer spring applies only intermittent pressure on the two surcfaces, I do not think it is as crucial. Once debris is introduced into the system the gorgeous polish dulls a bit in wear areas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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