[Boba Debt 350]

I hate that erector set look and the way the builders left the wiring for the garage door openers was horrible, so I decided fix everything when I integrated them into my home automation system.

The first thing I had to do was reroute the electrical to above the units and then I repaired the ceiling.

This is a red neck rig I used to support the motors while I built the mounts

Almost done, at this point I could opperate the GDOs and they worked better then when the motors were mounted to the punched steel.

The mount is done and the Z-Wave switch is installed. Now I can control my GDOs with my computer, Nexus 7 or my smart phone. I can even create event to operate several devices with the push of a button such as the door, lights and some day the alarm system.

You can also see that I replace the erector set that supported the side rails with storage shelves. Both the mount and the shelves absorb noise so the system is much quieter now.

Edited February 27, 2013 by Boba Debt

[JC GoF 70]

Looks great. When can you come and do mine?

[Mullet Man 2,114]

That beats the hell out of that bubba'd side by side you did. Looks nice.

[zenman223 460]

Thats cool. Pay no attention to the haters who are sure to chime in. I like seeing the projects you post even if I think some of the guns are a little goofy, its still cool.

 

Can you elaborate on this Z-wave switch and how you can work it from your computer and smart phone? I assume this could be applied to other devices as well??

 

Thanks for sharing

Edited February 27, 2013 by big-J

[Ronin38 2,117]

Looks great BD! I agree, that when I look at my GDO and see the "erector set" it's hanging from, I just think, "Really?"

[dayofruin 425]

Great job man! I want to do that now...

[Boba Debt 350]

Looks great. When can you come and do mine?

 

I might be available soon, depending on the sequestor

 

 

 

That beats the hell out of that bubba'd side by side you did. Looks nice.

 

 

Thanks and GFYS. BTW: I sold my Bull Pup Quad Rail concept and I'm in negotiations for my SXS shot gun and my Flat Top AK System so

 

Looks great BD! I agree, that when I look at my GDO and see the "erector set" it's hanging from, I just think, "Really?"

 

I know , it's the 21st century and they still use 1950's tech

 

 

 

 

Great job man! I want to do that now...

 

So just do it.

 

This was just the test bed for me to work it out. Eventually the garage will be our master bedroom and the new garage will have mounts that completely hide the motors.

[Boba Debt 350]

Thats cool. Pay no attention to the haters who are sure to chime in. I like seeing the projects you post even if I think some of the guns are a little goofy, its still cool.

 

Can you elaborate on this Z-wave switch and how you can work it from your computer and smart phone? I assume this could be applied to other devices as well??

 

Thanks for sharing

 

 

Z-Wave is a protocol that won the home automation wars. It beat out X-10 and Insteon, although you can still find devices that use those protocols they are on their way out.

Currently you can buy a variety of Z-Wave devices such as: light switches, outlets, dead bolts, thermostats, alarm systems, cameras, water sensors, irrigation components and a few others that I’m not familiar with. Plus the market for Z-wave just opened up since they won the aforementioned home automation war.

You can control these devices with simple rubber button remote controls or you can get software such as HomeSeer which allows for complete control and customization of your system.

Currently I use my main computer as my server and it also acts as a client. We also have the following clients, my wife’s lap top and her Nexus 7 tablet and my Samsung Showcase smart phone.

The server acts like the brain of the unit and it controls a HomeSeer Z-Troller which controls the Z-Wave devices, it’s like a wireless modem.

The clients control the devices by connecting to the server computer though the wireless network.

Each client has a custom interface that I created with the HomeSeer HSTouch software.

Here are some examples of my smart phone screens

Home Screen. I can control my door locks, garage door openers and I have access to my Device and Events lists and the 1st and 2nd Floor screen. Eventually I will be able to control m alarm as well

This is the First Floor selection menu. I can select the following: Den, Dining Room, Kitchen or Foyer

This is the Den selection menu. From this menu I can control the lighting, fan, outlets and the 1st floor thermostat. I also have a bedtime event button that does about 20 things when I go to bead. Eventually I will also have remote control of my AV system and blinds.

This is the screen that pops up when you click on the T-Stat icon on any of the 1st Floor screens. I have a separate screen for the 2nd floor system:

When you change the status of a device it is represented in real time on the screen, here is the Den screen and it shows the current temp, and the status of the lights and fan

I have a total of 24 screens for my phone and I anticipate many more in the future, it looks like automobile control may soon be a part of this so good by key fobs

With this software you can create events so that many things happen with one trigger such as all of the security lights coming on at dusk or all of the Christmas lights coming on with the push of one button.

It is a very adaptable system and I look forward to expanding it as new tech comes out.

 

Edited February 27, 2013 by Boba Debt

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

I really like the idea of building storage shelves to support the tracks. My tracks were installed by a crack head and are all sorts of out of alignment, to the point that the door binds. The tracks being in the way pretty much makes that space useless anyhow. I'm going to have to give that concept some serious thought. The only problem I have is that my tracks are inset about 4' from each side wall, so they would end up being some serious deep shelves....

 

Cool idea!

[Boba Debt 350]

Deep shelves are better

 

Here is how I made the shelves.

 

2x4 frame screwed to the wall studs every 16". You would need a 2x4 running down the center of your shelves since you have a 4' depth

 

The end of the shelf sould end in line with a roof truss so you can secure the vertical end wall to the ceiling. Then you cover the flat surfaces with plywood, 1/4" works for the bottom of the shelf and the sides of the vertical wall and 1/2 should work for the top surface of the shelf.

 

You need to secure the spring to unbolt the side take up real mounts or havoc will ensue.

 

I suspended the rail from the ceiling with wire to get the shelf in place and secured it to the shelf with #10 screws.

 

It is very solid and reduces the noise level.

[JESS1344 508]

BOBA,

I'M NOT TOO MUCH ON ELECTRONICS, BUT HOW VUNERABLE IS THIS SYSTEM TO BEING HACKED?

 

JESS1344

[Vec 10]

Damn fine work !

[termite 463]

That's cool as hell, but what if an EMP goes off.

[thebuns1 4,323]

Well for your "erector set", its an industry standard. I feel for you if your door ever crashes though. I hope you left enough room for tracks with your shelves, as too much tightness will cause the rollers to bind, stressing the sections and the motor. But if it rolls smooth by hand, then you should be fine. I see you have high lift. Makes me wonder with that much clearance why they didnt just put in a taller door.

 

One thing I will suggest is that you leave an access opening to the top of the motor. The gear and sprocket assemblies are prone to failure in the chamberlain family of units. Its a simple fix, but it may not be if you dont have access to it.

 

How did you secure the wood to the ceiling for the operator? And for your door being noisy and loud, Id use some liquid silicone. Hit all the rollers, hinges and the spring. It will help with the noise aspect.

 

I do these for a living and think it turned out better than most people I see attempt similar things.

[RED333 1,025]

Looks great. When can you come and do mine?

 

I might be available soon, depending on the sequestor

 

 

 

Best line to day!!!

Good job on the Door system!!!

[thebuns1 4,323]

It does look good.

[Voltia 375]

The steel strap is the standard, like the man said above. I do like the wooden shelves, but be careful that you check to

see what the vibration over months of operations does to the fasteners and glue. Particularly watch what holds the motor,

I noticed there isn't much there for side loading (which happens when the door binds.)

 

A lot of time these systems flex and bang and such so that they can accommodate non-lubed, bent rails, and not tear themselves

apart with a moment of overload (both momentary and torsional, hah.) I'm just worried about that causing flex and popping your joints

loose over time. I personally would have welded a truss for it, but your way is fine if you keep an eye on it. Also, bear in mind that

that door was probably hung according to code, and you probably just violated it, which is ok for you, but what if the door falls on a guest

and he or she sues? Sorry to doomsday, it IS nice work, just watch it like a hawk, and party on.

[VR762Shooter 838]

Looks good, I would trust a steel set even if it looked like an erector set more than I would wood. Suppose that's why its the standard, but good job, keep and eye on it

[Boba Debt 350]

BOBA,

I'M NOT TOO MUCH ON ELECTRONICS, BUT HOW VUNERABLE IS THIS SYSTEM TO BEING HACKED?

 

JESS1344

 

It's hard to crack, these systems are used in multi million dollar homes, just to a greater extent

 

 

 

Well for your "erector set", its an industry standard. I feel for you if your door ever crashes though. I hope you left enough room for tracks with your shelves, as too much tightness will cause the rollers to bind, stressing the sections and the motor. But if it rolls smooth by hand, then you should be fine. I see you have high lift. Makes me wonder with that much clearance why they didnt just put in a taller door.

 

One thing I will suggest is that you leave an access opening to the top of the motor. The gear and sprocket assemblies are prone to failure in the chamberlain family of units. Its a simple fix, but it may not be if you dont have access to it.

 

How did you secure the wood to the ceiling for the operator? And for your door being noisy and loud, Id use some liquid silicone. Hit all the rollers, hinges and the spring. It will help with the noise aspect.

 

I do these for a living and think it turned out better than most people I see attempt similar things.

 

The weight of the doors are supported by the tracks so I don’t know how it could crash through???

 

The company that installed this did not have the tracks square, they converged and bound both doors. Once I made them parallel the doors worked better and I could reduce the up and down sensitivity on the motors. The shelves have been done for about 3 years and I have not had any problems.

 

By "taller door" do you mean add a panel to the top and make the entrance taller, or just add the panel to the top to offset the initial straing of the arm?

 

As for the motors, the right one hung from the ceiling by one 3/8” lag bolt for 10 years. It had 2 lag bolts but the other was only screwed into drywall, they missed the truss. The left motor had one lag bolt that had been so over tightened that I had to pull it out with vise grips, so that motor was also hanging from one 3/8 lag bolt.

 

My supports have 3 rows of three #10 decking screws that are 4.5” long, I hung and swung from each mount before I attached the motors to them, I weigh 185 pounds and they didn't budge at all.

 

The back panel of the motor mount is held on by 3 brads and can be easily removed. I service my openers annually and have adjusted the spring tension twice in the past 10 years.

 

I'm not the average "do-it-yourselfer"

 

 

The steel strap is the standard, like the man said above. I do like the wooden shelves, but be careful that you check to

see what the vibration over months of operations does to the fasteners and glue. Particularly watch what holds the motor,

I noticed there isn't much there for side loading (which happens when the door binds.)

 

A lot of time these systems flex and bang and such so that they can accommodate non-lubed, bent rails, and not tear themselves

apart with a moment of overload (both momentary and torsional, hah.) I'm just worried about that causing flex and popping your joints

loose over time. I personally would have welded a truss for it, but your way is fine if you keep an eye on it. Also, bear in mind that

that door was probably hung according to code, and you probably just violated it, which is ok for you, but what if the door falls on a guest

and he or she sues? Sorry to doomsday, it IS nice work, just watch it like a hawk, and party on.

 

The motor mount is 36” wide and 11” deep and as stated above it has nine 4.5” screws securing it to the roof trusses. Compared to the one good lag bolt that each motor had I would say that my mount is far more secure.

You’re the second person to mention the door falling. Short of the shelf system collapsing how could this happen?

I showed this to my local Overhead Door company and they asked me if I was available for hire so I doubt this would fail code requirements

 

 

 

 

Looks good, I would trust a steel set even if it looked like an erector set more than I would wood. Suppose that's why its the standard, but good job, keep and eye on it

 

 

Nothing would ever change and iimprove if people didn't try to think outside of the box.

Edited February 28, 2013 by Boba Debt

[pyzik 597]

Man, I am so glad my wife has no desire to visit this forum... If she ever saw anything you post I would be in trouble.

[thebuns1 4,323]

The weight of the doors are supported by the tracks so I don’t know how it could crash through???

 

The company that installed this did not have the tracks square, they converged and bound both doors. Once I made them parallel the doors worked better and I could reduce the up and down sensitivity on the motors. The shelves have been done for about 3 years and I have not had any problems.

 

By "taller door" do you mean add a panel to the top and make the entrance taller, or just add the panel to the top to offset the initial straing of the arm?

 

As for the motors, the right one hung from the ceiling by one 3/8” lag bolt for 10 years. It had 2 lag bolts but the other was only screwed into drywall, they missed the truss. The left motor had one lag bolt that had been so over tightened that I had to pull it out with vise grips, so that motor was also hanging from one 3/8 lag bolt.

 

My supports have 3 rows of three #10 decking screws that are 4.5” long, I hung and swung from each mount before I attached the motors to them, I weigh 185 pounds and they didn't budge at all.

 

The back panel of the motor mount is held on by 3 brads and can be easily removed. I service my openers annually and have adjusted the spring tension twice in the past 10 years.

 

I'm not the average "do-it-yourselfer"

 

By crashing Boba, I dont mean falling down directly. I see a lot of crazy shit that technically, should not have happened. If a cable ever gets thrown off a drum on either side for what ever reason, the door will jack-knife in the opening and usually ends up damaging the tracks. We see this a lot. I dont see that posing a problem for your shelves though.

 

For the door tracks being out of square, these things are supposed to be leveled when installed. That usually ends up having one side of the tracks being higher up than the other, depending on how bad the concrete is out. Its hard to say what was up with yours though judging from pics.

 

By taller door, I did mean having a taller door. I hate when I go to a job site and there is 12' ceilings and only a 7' tall door. lol.

 

I see a lot of people from other door companies miss a truss. Im surprised some shit is actually still hanging with only one lag in it. We normally use impact wrenches to run in the wood lags, so its not surprising that it seemed over tightened.

 

Some companies do shit work. Its pretty sad considering what they charge. The only other thing I can suggest is keep your spring lubed. It looks to be long cycle life spring, but eventually it will break.

[Boba Debt 350]

Man, I am so glad my wife has no desire to visit this forum... If she ever saw anything you post I would be in trouble.

 

 

I get that comment A LOT

 

 

 

 

 

By crashing Boba, I dont mean falling down directly. I see a lot of crazy shit that technically, should not have happened. If a cable ever gets thrown off a drum on either side for what ever reason, the door will jack-knife in the opening and usually ends up damaging the tracks. We see this a lot. I dont see that posing a problem for your shelves though.

 

For the door tracks being out of square, these things are supposed to be leveled when installed. That usually ends up having one side of the tracks being higher up than the other, depending on how bad the concrete is out. Its hard to say what was up with yours though judging from pics.

 

By taller door, I did mean having a taller door. I hate when I go to a job site and there is 12' ceilings and only a 7' tall door. lol.

 

I see a lot of people from other door companies miss a truss. Im surprised some shit is actually still hanging with only one lag in it. We normally use impact wrenches to run in the wood lags, so its not surprising that it seemed over tightened.

 

Some companies do shit work. Its pretty sad considering what they charge. The only other thing I can suggest is keep your spring lubed. It looks to be long cycle life spring, but eventually it will break.

 

I have only done the shelves on one side but both have the new motor mounts. The left side still needs the shelves but the motor mount seem to have helped with the erratic operation of the door.

 

I’m not to worried about either of them jack knifing because I have the up and down sensitivity set so low that OHD said it shouldn’t work at those settings.

 

I spent a lot of time tensioning my springs on both doors. On the right door, the tracks converged at the motor so much that the rollers were rubbing the side of the tack. Neither were level and they weren’t out of level to the same degree so the doors were canted. The shelves made fixing all of this very easy. They are parallel +/- 1/16” and level and they are right in the center of the left/right travel limits of the rollers.

 

I tend to go way over board when I do a project

 

Here is a picture of part of our 1st floor reno, some people think I went a little over board on the demo

 

 

 

Edited February 28, 2013 by Boba Debt

[thebuns1 4,323]

You think along the same lines I do when doing shit. Thats good. I bitch a lot when I see doors that are hung like shit. lol.

 

What I meant earlier about the doors jackknifing, was not with the motors at all, but rather the length of the cables. It doesnt look like you'll have this problem, but all too often we see people cram shit in the corners such as rakes, shovels and other items that can fuck with the door if it slides in between the track and the jamb. If one of the cables ever comes off the drum, the cable that is still on it, will have more pull on it causing the door to sit crooked in the tracks. Generally, it damages the vertical portion of the track on the same side that the cable is still on. It looks fairly nasty when it happens, but its also an easy fix if you know how to cheat it, but can still be dangerous depending on how sever it is. Its usually worse with larger doors though. This also happens when a door gets closed on something.

 

And Im glad you used real floor joists. I hate to see people spend money on that particle board shit. lol

[Voltia 375]

The motor mount is 36” wide and 11” deep and as stated above it has nine 4.5” screws securing it to the roof trusses. Compared to the one good lag bolt that each motor had I would say that my mount is far more secure.

You’re the second person to mention the door falling. Short of the shelf system collapsing how could this happen?

I showed this to my local Overhead Door company and they asked me if I was available for hire so I doubt this would fail code requirements

Right, the mount IS more secure to the truss, I was just wondering about the internal joints to the shelves. Ever built one of those cheapy walmart

bookshelves? They lean and wobble all over until the backing is attached. I was just wondering how the center shelf will hold up with slamming side loads

on the bottom.

In addition to the above, the door can hop the track.

I'm glad they asked if you were for hire; however, that doesn't say jack about code. Code is what MUST be used in professional construction. You

use X or "better than X" and "better than X" is defined via a standard. So, if you do something that is better, which I'll agree, your system is probably

better, but it isn't on the approved list, then it isn't code, and you can be held liable. Even if it can hold the fucking Titanic, it it ain't code, it's illegal.

Now, I am NOT busting on you, nor am I trying to win an argument. I'm cool with it if you want to disagree, too.

[Maxwelhse 1,285]

Can any of the pundits quote the code for that install?

 

Frankly, I'll all about by the book, but what the OP has done looks a damn sight better than most installs I've seen. Code is a minimum requirement. Exceeding it is all up to you and your cash stash.

 

Not to diminish the pro experience out there. I recognize pros when i see them.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Looks great. When can you come and do mine?

 

I might be available soon, depending on the sequestor

 

 

 

Best line to day!!!

Good job on the Door system!!!

 

Still haven't made it past this point in the thread yet, but from what I've seen so far I have to say THIS is by far the best one...LOL! And PLUS ONE!!! LMAO!

 

 

Mullet Man, on 27 Feb 2013 - 11:56, said:

That beats the hell out of that bubba'd side by side you did. Looks nice.

 

 

Thanks and GFYS. BTW: I sold my Bull Pup Quad Rail concept and I'm in negotiations for my SXS shot gun and my Flat Top AK System so

 

 

 

WAUFDH (short for "What A Useless Fucking Dickhead"...)

 

 

 

Great job on the craftsmanship and thinking outside the box bro... like always.

[Voltia 375]

Can any of the pundits quote the code for that install?

 

Frankly, I'll all about by the book, but what the OP has done looks a damn sight better than most installs I've seen. Code is a minimum requirement. Exceeding it is all up to you and your cash stash.

 

Not to diminish the pro experience out there. I recognize pros when i see them.

 

 

Sorry, I'm on vacation. Wasn't aware I had to cite things on this forum to say them. I can say, from personal experience, that I've had a truss fail a PE certification because the steel was not of an approved type (it was better, just foreign) and the bolts were not on the rating system (again, better, just foreign).

 

I'm no pro, I don't get paid enough to call myself that, lol.

[Boba Debt 350]

Now, I am NOT busting on you, nor am I trying to win an argument. I'm cool with it if you want to disagree, too.

 

No worries

 

 

 

Can any of the pundits quote the code for that install?

 

Frankly, I'll all about by the book, but what the OP has done looks a damn sight better than most installs I've seen. Code is a minimum requirement. Exceeding it is all up to you and your cash stash.

 

Not to diminish the pro experience out there. I recognize pros when i see them.

 

Thanks

 

Thanks and GFYS. BTW: I sold my Bull Pup Quad Rail concept and I'm in negotiations for my SXS shot gun and my Flat Top AK System so

 

 

 

Great job on the craftsmanship and thinking outside the box bro... like always.

 

 

I'm the first to admit that my ideas are not normmaly along conventional lines

 

 

 

Sorry, I'm on vacation. Wasn't aware I had to cite things on this forum to say them. I can say, from personal experience, that I've had a truss fail a PE certification because the steel was not of an approved type (it was better, just foreign) and the bolts were not on the rating system (again, better, just foreign).

 

I'm no pro, I don't get paid enough to call myself that, lol.

 

 

No need to prove anything. I posted this thread to show off some work and hopfully someone will get an idea from it and make it better. I already know I'm going to use the side mounted motors when I build the new garage addition. I wish I knew about them back when I built this house but now I know.......