gunfun 3,931 Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 He revamped his section lately. I saved that link a long time ago, because people used to ask a lot. Browse around his section or contact him here: http://www.cobras-custom.com/ I've been trying to get him to make a special version for a while now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MLM0358 107 Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 If you're asking about which chokes to use ..... most 3 gun guys I know use IC choke for general use. Cylinder for stages with mainly close targets. IM for stages which require more precision. Rifled slugs will run through all. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Good point. I think he was asking about HD though and 3 gun is run with birdshot rather than buck. Federal #4 Buck through a full choke will pretty much stay on a CD at under 40 feet. That's a pretty good level of control if you have neighbors or other people in your houlse. The pattern I get from OOB is always more erratic. They might all be in a clump, or they might spread out with 3 close together and the rest in a 9" ragged line. I like to be able to predict where my pellets will go when I pull the trigger more than that. #1 Buck is also a good choice whether cylinder bore or choked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Carlsons Choke Tubes has always performed good work for me at a fair price with quick turn around time for internal chokes. 2 S12's with Tru chokes and a 870 with Remington. I've always pulled the barrel and sent it alone, I'm not sure if that's a requirement but it's noteworthy for anyone looking to have a Saiga 12 internally threaded. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 If you have a short barrel, you permanently attach. In this case the barrel is still over 16" so the comp does not need to be permanently attached, hence the clamp -- I believe you meant 18" sir. I'm sure it was just a typo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billybobf 50 Posted November 18, 2013 Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 Could the length be a rifle guy in a shotty world? Ok so why not a weld on shell that has internal threads tapped in it? (Please steal my idea) The outer cage would come with an appropriate pilot for the barrel you are using. Cut your barrel, slip on cage and weld it on. Unscrew pilot and install any variety of chokes, flash hiders, compensators with any design of porting, barrel extensions, golf ball launchers, you name it, all fit to the weld on cage. Link soon to idea behind it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billybobf 50 Posted November 18, 2013 Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 So actually this is where the idea came from! http://www.tacticalsol.com/tshome/category/ruger-rifles/ruger-rifle-accessories/ruger-rifle-barrel-upgrades Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Terminator03 18 Posted November 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 So actually this is where the idea came from! http://www.tacticalsol.com/tshome/category/ruger-rifles/ruger-rifle-accessories/ruger-rifle-barrel-upgrades That is very cool, and I actually had a dream about something similar last night. I saw some of those polychokes with the external threads to adapt a muzzle device onto. I wonder if you could perm the muzzle device to that and then cut the barrel and perm the polychoke to the barrel to get the 18" length? I don't really know how the polychokes operate, though, so maybe they need to be removable for cleaning? Even still, I would think that an adapter for standard Rem chokes (or similar) could be made to perm to the barrel, and be able to adapt a MD to the end. Does anything like that exist already? I think that would be easier than tapping the barrel for the chokes. I definitely would like to shorten my barrel so that it is as short as possible without being NFA, so that means it probably isn't worth spending the money on the TAT and die to thread the barrel if the device needs to be permed anyway. I'll just bore whatever attachment on my lathe then silver solder, or pin/weld it to the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MIKE20GA 11 Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 The OP muzzle device has been discontinued ; you can't buy it anymore Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Terminator03 18 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 The OP muzzle device has been discontinued ; you can't buy it anymore Yeah, but it is a copy of the Russian design and someone else is making them now. I can't remember which site (maybe CSS?) They actually had it cheaper than what Krebs was asking for them too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 I believe DPH is the maker you are thinking of. Krebs stuff is always priced at top of category. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
m4bgringo 0 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 I have been using the VEPR12 brake from CSS on my Saiga-12. I threw it on there are first just to see if it actually works, and it does! Now you guys have me thinking of cutting the barrel shorter and welding the brake on there to keep it legal with the BATFE. I can dump a full mag with practically no muzzle rise with that brake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Terminator03 18 Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 I have been using the VEPR12 brake from CSS on my Saiga-12. I threw it on there are first just to see if it actually works, and it does! Now you guys have me thinking of cutting the barrel shorter and welding the brake on there to keep it legal with the BATFE. I can dump a full mag with practically no muzzle rise with that brake. Thanks, that is a cool looking brake. I will have to give that a try at some point. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) I'm running a S12 Kushnapup, so my barrel sits at 19". My GK-01 (CSS copy) just came in and it would bring the length up tp around 23.5". The problem is, I want to keep the length down, but my Gunsmith has concerns that if I chop it down and permanently weld it or re-thread it, it will fly off the end. If I cut the barrel back all the way to the frame of the Kushnapup, the GK-01 will bring it right back up to just over 19". Is "flying off the barrel" or "blowing off the end of the gun" a legitimate concern as Malcolm suggested at the end of Post #10? If so, what are my options (aside from just screwing the damn thing on and living with the length)? Thanks! Edited June 14, 2014 by Omega Invictus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Sounds incompetent to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pedal2alloy 206 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 A Welded or threaded brake will not fly off. Malcolm was talking about clamped in post #10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Sounds good. I actually just found out that I cannot use the length of that particular muzzle device to make up lost difference in the barrel due to the ports. Something about it not being a solid barrel and it would technically be illegal....don't want that. Might be good info for anyone trying to maintain an 18" barrel by permanently welding certain compensators/muzzle breaks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) Yes you can. You could technically have a sliver of barrel left and be legal as long as the barrel is 18" OAL. If this is info from your smith, I'd shop elsewhere. The law is about concealability and how it pertains to length. Edited June 14, 2014 by Mullet Man 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Thank you, Mullet Man. I'll have to do some research and make sure we don't have some crazy hidden law somewhere in WV. It sounded a little wierd to me, but who knows? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) Well, I haven't gotten through to my local ATF office yet for an official blessing (no weekends?), but Jack Travers aggres with you 100% and I take that as pretty much Gospel - no offense meant towards you, of course. Thanks for setting me straight, guys. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sent Today, 04:23 PM I would find another gunsmith!!! The guy definitely does not have a clue in this regard. If it didn't have ports/vents, etc., you might as well weld on a piece of pipe!! No, it is entirely legal to permanently attach the Molot brake for an OAL of 18". Ports have nothing to do with it. This is the first time I have ever heard this one and I thought I had heard it all:) Regards, Jack Travers JT Engineering Edited June 14, 2014 by Omega Invictus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I'm running a S12 Kushnapup, so my barrel sits at 19". My GK-01 (CSS copy) just came in and it would bring the length up tp around 23.5". The problem is, I want to keep the length down, but my Gunsmith has concerns that if I chop it down and permanently weld it or re-thread it, it will fly off the end. If I cut the barrel back all the way to the frame of the Kushnapup, the GK-01 will bring it right back up to just over 19". Is "flying off the barrel" or "blowing off the end of the gun" a legitimate concern as Malcolm suggested at the end of Post #10? If so, what are my options (aside from just screwing the damn thing on and living with the length)? Thanks! Your 'smith doesn't sound very confident in his ability to permanently attach things. I think he is trying to find a subtle way to tell you it is way over his head and he doesn't want to do it. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwelhse 1,285 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 (edited) ....or god is begging him to SBS a Kushnapup. hummm...? Edited June 17, 2014 by Maxwelhse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 ....or god is begging him to SBS a Kushnapup. hummm...? Hahaha. If only. Attaching the brake right up against the frame of the Kpup brings it just a hair over where the length sits now, so no SBS with that brake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwelhse 1,285 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I understand. I'm just saying forget the brake, don't worry about the barrel length, and SBS the K-pup. I was, of course, kidding... I get SBS happy since its practically the ONLY thing we can't have in IN (stupid stupid stupid law! AOW shotties are just fine... lame!) so it's naturally the only thing I would go through the BATFE hassle for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Haha, I understand completely! But, I really think it's gonna look badass with the brake and it'll still be about 19", so no dicking around with paperwork. Now to find someone competent enough to weld the damn thing... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwelhse 1,285 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 (edited) Now to find someone competent enough to weld the damn thing... I believe that person would be called "any professionally certified welder". LOTS of tradesman are into guns so it would probably be a fun job (meaning excellent work) and a gunsmith is NOT a certified welder (usually). Stay away from that dingdong you were talking to for life. Personally, unless someone has a good reason otherwise, I'd just have them tack it on (maybe 4 tacks?) so you CAN grind the weld off and remove it later without too much mess. I would expect to pay about $10-15 to have that done with some nice TIG work. Seems like about a $1/minute job. Edited June 17, 2014 by Maxwelhse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Good advice. Wish there was a way to search for gunsmiths in my area. No luck so far. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwelhse 1,285 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 (edited) Good advice. Wish there was a way to search for gunsmiths in my area. No luck so far. WELDER... Not gun smith! Also, as far as I'm aware, we have LOTS of good smiths on here that have FFLs and real businesses that could do whatever you need done via mail. I'd trust a good few of them for welding work, but I don't think that's required. Edited June 17, 2014 by Maxwelhse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Omega Invictus 2 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Rather find someone local I that I can look in the face and had over my baby personnaly...plus shipping is a bitch. I know a couple welders - I'll get it figured out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jekbrown 14 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I love me some muzzle devices, but I am highly skeptical of their utility for either controlling recoil or suppressing flash in a 12g with a 19" bbl. Could be wrong, but the factory thread protector is free...and short. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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