AR parts

[james lambert 3,059]

I would just like to say that the 5.56 is a worthless piece of shit for mall ninjas and target shooters.

So.....I would like your expert opinion, what do fags prefer?

 

 

 

I assume this is just sarcastic fishing?

My response should be taken as such 

[gunfun 3,931]

And the M14 chokes at the sight of mud. -- but I suppose it is completely unproductive to go around saying stuff for the sole purpose of poking a stick in people's eyes.

[Heartbreaker 1,085]

I'm sure you could find advantages and disadvantages for every caliber. By your so-called reasoning, .22lr is a POS caliber only fit for plinking cans. 5.56 is not as powerful as 7.62, sure, but you get a MUCH lighter rifle, higher capacity mags and you can carry more ammunition. And with the proper bullets, it can really mess someone up.

[XD45 7,124]

Stryker is immune to your puny logic.

[Heartbreaker 1,085]

Is he a Democrat?

[gunfun 3,931]

Ok. we forgot the rule to not feed obvious trolling.

 

Last I checked this thread was about quality parts for a budget build. I'm actually pretty interested in that topic.

 

I hope in the next few months to make a 16"  med profile 300BO with pistol length gas and an adjustable block. I would prefer a very light forend that goes most the way down the barrel. I've been seeing reasonable prices on more and more setups that match that description lately. It will have a conventional scope on it, and probably eventually cheap fixed offset irons. It sounds like what I am looking for will tend to run better with a lighter carrier group.

 

see here for some interesting tests: http://micromoa.com/300-blk-port-size-testing/

 

The parts I need to get figured out are:

 

Which adj. gas block?

 

Which bolt carrier? -- leaning towards something from aim surplus.

 

What buffer and spring ? -- I want a carbine type tube for a telescoping stock. I would be fine with a generic M4 CAR type stock for a while.

 

If there's a ready made gun  or upper for a cheap price that has my wish list, then I'll go with that. Most of the purpose built 300 BO guns at entry prices are carbine length, but I think pistol is going to run a lot better with the ammo I want.

 

Oh and I forgot twist rate. I need to make better notes.

Edited February 10, 2016 by GunFun

[sjgusmc21 850]

I hope we are back on track now. The advice here has been great.

[XD45 7,124]

I have a couple of the AIM NiB bcgs.  So far they've been fantastic.  Sold out atm but more soon I'm sure.

 

I'm running POF single-stage drop-in triggers and very happy with them.  Got them for $99 each at Primary last year.

 

Also UTG Pro Slim forends.  Don't let the UTG brand scare you.  They're great.

 

BCM Gunfighter Mod3 stubby grips are the best bargain out there.

 

And before you decide on a pistol grip, do yourself a favor and try the Magpul K2.

[SHOTGUN MESIAH 855]

I luv it when Jitler gets his panties in a bunch…... 

[gunfun 3,931]

I have a couple of the AIM NiB bcgs.  So far they've been fantastic.  Sold out atm but more soon I'm sure.

 

 

Also UTG Pro Slim forends.  Don't let the UTG brand scare you.  They're great.

 

 

And before you decide on a pistol grip, do yourself a favor and try the Magpul K2.

 

a. Was looking at those. Not sure the NIB is actually a meaninful performance boost, but it looks really good for an extra $19. Which profile though....

 

 

b. A couple friends have those with keymod. I actually was impressed with the quality and weight. 

 

c. Felt them. Like them, would get one if I weren't sold on the umbrella corp one.

[JonWienke 131]

To GunFun, re .300 build: I've done several .300 Blackout builds. I'm holding one in my facebook profile photo, along with a deer I killed with it.

 

Guntec/Desert Strike Handguards: http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-M-LOK-Mount-Forend-Rifle/dp/B00V2PDXYC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_3

Lightweight, rigid, and reasonably priced. Other lengths are available, from 7-16" and you can get m-lok or keymod.

 

Which adjustable gas block? Syrac Ordnance, no question. They are worth every penny of their price.

 

I would definitely go for either nickel boron or else nitride BCG. .300 Blackout is more like 12-gauge than 5.56; there is a very wide range of energy level in the ammo. .223/5.56 varies about 20% from min to max, .300BO is more than 100% variation. So an adjustable gas block is mandatory if you don't want the gun to beat the crap out of itself when shooting supersonic rounds and still cycle subsonics. And on the low end of the power scale, the extra slickness helps reliability noticeably. Nickel boron is slightly slicker than nitride, but nitride is more tacticool. Get a semi-auto, not a full-auto, for the reduced mass.

 

If you want to cycle subsonic rounds reliably, bore out the gas port to .125" and use a Syrac gas block. This is mandatory if you want to reliably cycle subs sans can, especially with a 16" barrel with carbine gas (DO NOT go shorter than 16" with carbine gas) or barrels 8" or shorter, even if they have pistol gas ports. The block has enough adjustment to prevent overgassing when shooting supersonics. But make sure you turn the adjustment screw every 5 rounds or so for the first 50 rounds, to prevent it from seizing from copper fouling if ther is any burr on the gas port hole (ask me how I know this).

 

Another mod I recommend for .300 is to remove the buffer weights. Bolt bounce is not an issue if cycling energy is set anywhere near reasonable, and you're only shooting semi-auto. Removing that mass gives you more adjustment room on the bottom end for shooting subs; you may need it.

 

A 16" .300 Blackout is about as loud as a 16" .22LR. With supersonic rounds out in the open, I wouldn't call it hearing-safe, but firing a few rounds won't make your ears ring. With subsonics and a can, the action cycling is the loudest noise by far, other than the smack of the bullet hitting the target.

[sjgusmc21 850]

Gunfun, have you ever tried Hogue overmolded grips?  I really like them.

[Heartbreaker 1,085]

I like Midwest Industries lightweight M-lok handguard. They are a little higher priced, but very slim, solid and very light (lighter even than that guntec handguard that claims to be "lightest on the market").

[mixednuttz 123]

Gunfun, do you reload? I'm just curious why you want a 300 BO. "I just do" is perfectly acceptable by the way. I've thought of adding one for my soon to be SBR and suppressor for grins. Are you planning on running supersonic, subs, both? Do you have a suppressor? You may want to take a look at the 277 Wolverine. It uses standard 5.56 mags and bolt. It works well subsonic but performs better supersonic than the 300.

A NiB bolt carrier isn't necessary but is a lot easier to clean. If you're planning on running subs you may want to go that route as subs tend to dirty things up quick. Don't worry about the "tacticool" look of it. You'd never see it with the dust cover closed.

Seriously though. Take a look at the 277 Wolverine. You may like it. (If you don't, more barrels and ammo for me)

[Vance665 225]

 

A 16" .300 Blackout is about as loud as a 16" .22LR. With supersonic rounds out in the open, I wouldn't call it hearing-safe, but firing a few rounds won't make your ears ring. With subsonics and a can, the action cycling is the loudest noise by far, other than the smack of the bullet hitting the target.

Are you saying a 16" 300 blackout is hearing safe useing subsonic ammo WITHOUT a suppressor? I consider a 22lr rifle to be hearing safe.

[getitat 609]

Hello

 

I recently picked up a couple of "fully-adjustable" Spikes triggers that look intriguing. Appears they have some space-age slick coating, as well.

Haven't mounted or shot them yet, but I'm thinking Red Star for AR's here.

Anybody with first hand knowledge?

 

-Guido in TX

[JonWienke 131]

 

A 16" .300 Blackout is about as loud as a 16" .22LR. With supersonic rounds out in the open, I wouldn't call it hearing-safe, but firing a few rounds won't make your ears ring. With subsonics and a can, the action cycling is the loudest noise by far, other than the smack of the bullet hitting the target.

Are you saying a 16" 300 blackout is hearing safe useing subsonic ammo WITHOUT a suppressor? I consider a 22lr rifle to be hearing safe.

 

 

I wouldn't go quite that far necessarily, but it's a lot less uncomfortable to shoot with than pretty much any other round I've fired without ear protection. I killed a deer last fall with a .300 Blackout, and I fired 4 supersonic Barnes 110gr Vor-TX rounds standing in an open field with no ringing in the ears. I fired a 5th round while kneeling, which did cause some ringing for about a minute. The rifle is a 16" .300BLK with a .30-caliber YHM Phantom flash hider on the end.

 

Subsonic rounds are quieter than supersonics, no sonic boom. Both 22LR and 300BLK supers can be fired standing in the open with no ringing. If you're near a wall or in an enclosed area, that's a different story. With a can, you can fire 22LR or 300BLK subs indoors with no ringing, but not supers.

 

The bullet that actually hit the deer entered the middle of his back about 2 inches to the right of the spine, it took out a couple of ribs and then tore the crap out of the lungs. He ran about 20 yards and dropped.

[gunfun 3,931]

First up, I am set on 300 BO because I have shot it suppressed and not, in SBR and full size configurations, super and sub. I just loved it. It's versatile, and it really fits the way I have set up my ammo, and planned hobbies for the next few years. I've been researching it off and on for about 4 years seriously, but frankly forgot a lot of the good info I found. That's just as well, because it seems like a lot of that old info was people working around problems that have been solved since.

 

To GunFun, re .300 build: I've done several .300 Blackout builds. I'm holding one in my facebook profile photo, along with a deer I killed with it.

Guntec/Desert Strike Handguards: http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-M-LOK-Mount-Forend-Rifle/dp/B00V2PDXYC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_3
Lightweight, rigid, and reasonably priced. Other lengths are available, from 7-16" and you can get m-lok or keymod.

Which adjustable gas block? Syrac Ordnance, no question. They are worth every penny of their price.

I would definitely go for either nickel boron or else nitride BCG. .300 Blackout is more like 12-gauge than 5.56; there is a very wide range of energy level in the ammo. .223/5.56 varies about 20% from min to max, .300BO is more than 100% variation. So an adjustable gas block is mandatory if you don't want the gun to beat the crap out of itself when shooting supersonic rounds and still cycle subsonics. And on the low end of the power scale, the extra slickness helps reliability noticeably. Nickel boron is slightly slicker than nitride, but nitride is more tacticool. Get a semi-auto, not a full-auto, for the reduced mass.

If you want to cycle subsonic rounds reliably, bore out the gas port to .125" and use a Syrac gas block. This is mandatory if you want to reliably cycle subs sans can, especially with a 16" barrel with carbine gas (DO NOT go shorter than 16" with carbine gas) or barrels 8" or shorter, even if they have pistol gas ports. The block has enough adjustment to prevent overgassing when shooting supersonics. But make sure you turn the adjustment screw every 5 rounds or so for the first 50 rounds, to prevent it from seizing from copper fouling if ther is any burr on the gas port hole (ask me how I know this).

Another mod I recommend for .300 is to remove the buffer weights. Bolt bounce is not an issue if cycling energy is set anywhere near reasonable, and you're only shooting semi-auto. Removing that mass gives you more adjustment room on the bottom end for shooting subs; you may need it.
 

 

I'll check out all that. I've used and cleaned NiBo. It was nice and all, and I do lean that way. At AimSurplus prices, it's not much of a hit. At other places where it adds a hundred dollar or more premium, I don't see the value.

 

As for guntec, the guard looks decent and the price is fair. That's exactly what I said about the Guntec USA AK scope mount I bought that turned out to be the same pot metal chinese piece of crap as I could have bought for $20 every day of the week, but with their logo engraved on the side and for $60. It was too tall, crooked, and broke. Guntec lost me as a future customer.

 

Gunfun, have you ever tried Hogue overmolded grips?  I really like them.

 

I used to like them. Not as much to my taste any more. I like a slim fairly vertical grip without finger dents. Probably I will get an umbrella corp grip. I like those. If I get a gun that has something else, I would probably live with it for a little while to keep the cost down.

 

I like Midwest Industries lightweight M-lok handguard. They are a little higher priced, but very slim, solid and very light (lighter even than that guntec handguard that claims to be "lightest on the market").

 

I like theirs too. I was kinda resistant to keymod as a redundant standard. Same deal for M-lok, especially as I don't really intend to buy a bunch of magpull doodads. Anything light and skeletonized with threaded holes where I want rails would make me happy. M lok and Keymod do feel a lot nicer than the cheesegrater surface of a pic rail.

 

If I was making my perfect forend, it would be roughly the shape of a wankel rotor made from a tube of carbon fiber. It would have an aluminum rib down the bottom flat with holes tapped in it. The sides flats would be slotted with holes at regular intervals so I could slide an aluminum strip inside to use as a nut for putting on things like a light or laser. It would have some solid quick release mount for a bipod near the front and reach to about 2" short of the muzzle brake. 

 

Gunfun, do you reload? I'm just curious why you want a 300 BO. "I just do" is perfectly acceptable by the way. I've thought of adding one for my soon to be SBR and suppressor for grins. Are you planning on running supersonic, subs, both? Do you have a suppressor? You may want to take a look at the 277 Wolverine. It uses standard 5.56 mags and bolt. It works well subsonic but performs better supersonic than the 300.
A NiB bolt carrier isn't necessary but is a lot easier to clean. If you're planning on running subs you may want to go that route as subs tend to dirty things up quick. Don't worry about the "tacticool" look of it. You'd never see it with the dust cover closed.
Seriously though. Take a look at the 277 Wolverine. You may like it. (If you don't, more barrels and ammo for me)

 

Very yes. I cast my own bullets too. This is what makes 300 BO appeal. I'm working on a side biz which should give me a near infinite supply of cast projectiles. Tacticool has no appeal for me, and I would not consider the caliber for two seconds if I weren't reloading. Although I did just see PSA selling 20 round boxes for $9, so it is getting more practical for the poor saps who have to buy their ammo too.

 

I know people will make fun of this, but for me to do the 3 gun things I want to do, I had to find a way to bring the cost of play way down. 300 BO super sonic at ~2moa or better with projectiles a shade under a cent each. -likely custom 125 or so grain mold cloned to approximate the profile of a match bullet. I'd need alloy in the 30-34 BHN range, powder coated. I've priced that out and it works. I have made 165 and 183 grain 30 cal bullets which do just fine in 30-06 and 308 win. The basic idea is to figure out which match grade bullet I like, dial in the gun for that, and copy the bullet in hard alloy lead. When I shoot a stage over a hundred yards, I'll run the match bullets. For the rest, and most of practice, I'll run the cast bullets dialed in to shoot to the same point of impact. It will be a bit of a project, but long run I think it will pay off with a lot more play than I could do otherwise.

 

I've also been researching better ways to process brass in volume. Dillon's kit trim something 3000 is pretty close to what I want. I certainly envy the primer swaging capability of the 1050. However, I don't want to buy a whole new press or spend $500 just to set up a single purpose trimmer tool. I've a couple ideas that should be just as fast and more versatile that I think I can make and mount to my loadmaster.

 

Frankly I have put a lot more time into figuring out the ammo than the gun. This first gun will probably be a starter to do all the jobs on a budget with a likely SBR and can in the future and a dedicated race setup too. Right now, I have a gap in my gun safe and want a sub $1000 place holder to fill it. Preferably self built and closer to $800. I see ready made carbine length gas guns for $650 & 700 all the time, and could live with one of those as a place holder while I saved for a more specialized tool. I'd rather make what I want the first time. I know 16" pistol gas with an adj. block gives the best chance of running all ammo I would make well.

 

There are a lot of sweet 270 ish loads out there. I generally want standard ammo with available brass. 300 BO has the support built in to avoid the hassle of an oddball. If I were more interested in long range precision shooting, I would probably have one of the 6mm-270 things as an affordable accurate bolt gun. The stats/cost ratio and b.c. on that category certainly speaks to me.

Edited February 11, 2016 by GunFun

[JonWienke 131]

I've bought several of the Guntec handguards I linked off Amazon, and didn't have any fitment or QC issues.

[jerry52 893]

Reloading the 300 blackout is the reason I built my gun.

The only problem is getting a variety of powder in my area h110 and 4227 is what I have used so far.

Nemo buffer springs work well in 16 inch builds

Edited February 12, 2016 by jerry52

[LuPiN8oR 333]

I have a psa 12in 300blk with a FN "machine gun steel" barrel and pistol length gas system. It sits atop a spikes lower with the sbx pistol brace. I picked the 12in barrel because i didnt want to lose that much velocity shooting supers and figured 12in would be a happy medium and still short enough to put a can on and keep overall length down. With the silencerco omega its still very maneuverable, and this thing hasn't ftf/fte suppressed or not, subs or supers. The only thing I would change is ditch the quad rail for a super light keymod or mlok rail.

[jerry52 893]

Is it front heavy? Looks like it might be.

[LuPiN8oR 333]

Is it front heavy? Looks like it might be.

Its not really, the omega is super light, i think under 1lb. (eta--14.2 ounces). I'll have to look at how much it weighs but the whole thing is lighter than my saiga x39 by at least 2 lbs. I'm just not into heavy quad rails anymore, with that replaced you could probably knock another 8oz or so off the gun.

Edited February 12, 2016 by Lupin8or

[storm6490 2,768]

I'm sure you could find advantages and disadvantages for every caliber. By your so-called reasoning, .22lr is a POS caliber only fit for plinking cans. 5.56 is not as powerful as 7.62, sure, but you get a MUCH lighter rifle, higher capacity mags and you can carry more ammunition. And with the proper bullets, it can really mess someone up.

I will clarify that for you, 5.56 NATO. BTW, pull out the micrometer for your caliber translations. Technology made the rifle weight a moot point, Mag cap is generally 30… 20 if you like to shoot prone, not a valid point. Even with the right bullet, they have the tendency to pin hole the target and the fuckers keep charging you. You MUST carry more ammo because you have to set your piece of shit on three in hopes of dropping the target before it drops you. I was a teen when my dad gave me my first Colt target rifle. It was very accurate and dependable under range conditions. I was 17 when I was issued an A2 as a dumb grunt in GA. The 5.56 has been and will always be a good target rifle and that's it. Well, unless you like coyote hunting. I'm probably the biggest asshole on here but I do appreciate a the new gun enthusiasts the AR dragged in. Too bad the M-14 didn't carry the same lust with it or we would have thousands of new shooters that could actually drop something instead of punching paper and bolting on a bunch of useless shit to their light barrel ARs. The 5.56 should be rendered a support role munition unless its belt fed into a SAW. Amen.

[JonWienke 131]

And do you have the same douche opinion of .300 Blackout?

[storm6490 2,768]

And do you have the same douche opinion of .300 Blackout?

Nope, so long as it's piston driven. Only a hairdresser would run a tube with a can. If you don't have a can, you're a mall ninja or perhaps just a reloading fanatic.

[JonWienke 131]

Go home, you're drunk.

[storm6490 2,768]

Is he a Democrat?

Have you ever heard of being skull fucked? My morning dumps are more conservative than your 401k.

Go home, you're drunk.

I'm there (dude). Why would you have a blackout if you didn't own a suppressor. Why in the world would you shove all the extra debris down into the bolt carrier instead of letting it shit out of the port while driving a self cleaning piston? Stone sober question. Please, enlighten me.

[JonWienke 131]

I have piston and DI ARs. The DI guns get dirty sooner than the piston guns, but they can still handle 1000+ rounds without cleaning and still function reliably.

 

BTW, have you ever fired a G3? That design shits where it eats even worse than the AR, but that doesn't affect its reliability that much...

[mancat 2,368]

I would just like to say that the 5.56 is a worthless piece of shit for mall ninjas and target shooters.

 

it is a great economical round for getting flat ballistics within practical ranges.

standardization and economy of scale makes it a great round to own & shoot - there is simply so much available for it w.r.t. reloading components, factory ammo, cartridge-specific accessories, etc.

 

I don't think it's the great general purpose rifle cartridge that many think it's do, but I enjoy shooting it.

 

if the US had adopted .280 British and the FAL, such as we agreed with the UK to do, neither the 5.56 cartridge or the AR would probably exist.

Edited February 12, 2016 by mancat