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I have piston and DI ARs. The DI guns get dirty sooner than the piston guns, but they can still handle 1000+ rounds without cleaning and still function reliably.

BTW, have you ever fired a G3? That design shits where it eats even worse than the AR, but that doesn't affect its reliability that much...

Nope, I has a USP v1 as a kid. It was nice, expensive and I made money on it. For years I refused to buy HK because they did not support the shooting sports industry, pre-obozo. They would give us some pistols but no rifles in auto loading model. They only gave that shit to police which was a very 40's German thing to do. I have shot clones and they all felt like shit. Its the star carry key that doesn't like shit. When you say AR builds since we were talking blackout. You managed to shoot a 300 blackout 1000 times without a malfunction? If so, I have some friend that will hire you on the spot.

Fuck this phone

 

I would just like to say that the 5.56 is a worthless piece of shit for mall ninjas and target shooters.

 

 

it is a great economical round for getting flat ballistics within practical ranges.

standardization and economy of scale makes it a great round to own & shoot - there is simply so much available for it w.r.t. reloading components, factory ammo, cartridge-specific accessories, etc.

 

I don't think it's the great general purpose rifle cartridge that many think it's do, but I enjoy shooting it.

if the US had adopted .280 British and the FAL, such as we agreed with the UK to do, neither the 5.56 cartridge or the AR would probably exist.

I shot the fun out of 5.56. It is a very accurate, flat, dependable round for target shooting with an astronomical amount of accessories and options. That being said, its a shitty round for killing anything bigger than a coyote.
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Aim surplus.   Kak   Primary Arms

In addition to the above I used Joe Bob’s and palmettostatearmory in the recent past, both seems to be solid vendors and ship pretty quick, that is, if they have the parts in stock which could be anot

Aero Precision upper and lower. Low-cost and great quality.

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Reloading the 300 blackout is the reason I built my gun.

The only problem is getting a variety of powder in my area h110 and 4227 is what I have used so far.

Nemo buffer springs work well in 16 inch builds

 

What weights of spring and buffer? Most of what I see says H2 buffer.

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.300BLK wants a lighter-than-normal buffer and a standard-weight action spring. If you put in an H2 or H3 you can pretty much forget about reliable cycling with subsonics, even with pistol gas.

 

I pull all the weights out of my .300BLK buffers, and run an adjustable gas block to prevent over-cycling when shooting supersonics.

Edited by JonWienke
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My 10" 300blk SBR with pistol gas and an H2 buffer (Aero Precision upper) works fine with supers and subs.  I initially had some trouble cycling both ammo types when unsuppressed, but that ended up being extractor related and was solved by the addition of a 5 cent o-ring to help the extractor spring.  I'm using a Bravo Company BCG and a standard carbine recoil spring.  From what I understand, AAC specifies use of an H2 buffer with pistol gas and a short barrel.

 

300ar-3.jpg

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My 10" 300blk SBR with pistol gas and an H2 buffer (Aero Precision upper) works fine with supers and subs.  I initially had some trouble cycling both ammo types when unsuppressed, but that ended up being extractor related and was solved by the addition of a 5 cent o-ring to help the extractor spring.

 

Some 300BLK guns will run reliably with heavy buffers, but some won't. Cycling reliability is a complex interaction between the pressure curve of the ammo, gas port size and location, the fit between the bolt and carrier, buffer mass, fit between the gas tube and gas key, hammer and action spring strength, magazine, and feed ramp geometry. Running a lighter buffer and an adjustable gas block gives you a much wider envelope to find a sweet spot where the gun cycles reliably with subs without over-cycling with supers.

 

If you buy a complete gun from a reputable manufacturer, the components they select will be matched together for reliability; the manufacturer's R&D testing will determine the optimal gas port size, buffer mass, etc. for a given bolt, carrier, springs, and ammo. But if you're rolling your own with components from multiple manufacturers, that becomes your problem, and having as much flexibility as possible can save a lot of hassle swapping components trying to find something that works reliably.

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.300BLK wants a lighter-than-normal buffer and a standard-weight action spring. If you put in an H2 or H3 you can pretty much forget about reliable cycling with subsonics, even with pistol gas.

 

I pull all the weights out of my .300BLK buffers, and run an adjustable gas block to prevent over-cycling when shooting supersonics.

Obviously the size of gas port also enters the equation.

 

My 10.5" 300bo is reliable with supers and a standard buffer.  Won't cycle with an H1.  I haven't tried subs yet because there is no point unless I get a can.

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If you avoid cheap imported gas tubes and buy quality, as well as quality gas blocks made of steel or stainless you shouldnt have gas leakage at the block.

Gas blocks that clamp onto the barrel are vastly superior to cheap set screw models.

Aluminum has a considerably higher coefficient  of expansion than the stainless gas tube, That is a guaranteed gas leak when the gun is hot.

Over the years building and shooting  in multi gun, I have seen MANY gas block failures, both from leakage and erosion.

Adjustable gas blocks have the highest failure rate I have witnessed, we used to make them and use them, now we do neither.

 

In the short barreled world, 10.5" barrels with carbine gas length have proven to be more reliable than shorter barrels and gas systems.

 

As far as parts and guns in the AR world, you can choose from the lowest quality bargain basement to the Absolute top shelf.

In many cases those parts will appear identical, when in fact they are most certainly NOT.

 

You can buy a barrel for $39.00  or $700.00 both will shoot if just firing is your metric.

the same can be said for most components, you generically get what you pay for.

 

Unless you want or need a Premium quality gun capable of very sub moa groups and exemplary longevity, middle of the road components will yield a serviceable firearm at a reasonable price.

To get a good accurate AR you need a pretty good barrel, a good freefloat handguard and a clean trigger.

 Beyond that there are numerous fitments that can add or detract from the accuracy, one example is consistency when the gun goes from cold to extremely hot.

Anyone can assemble an AR, and get an operational gun, even a great gun.

But as in most things, long term experience can make a difference   

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Not looking to start shit of any kind, but I really like my Bushmaster m4 even though everyone on the Internet says it's a piece of shit. It's light and accurate. So far has proven just as reliable as my colt. Please don't hate me.

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My bushy m4gery was my only AR for years. It has been 100% reliable with brass case ammo and accurate with all bullet weights from 45 to 75gr despite it's 14.5" 1:9 barrel.

 

Really the only complaint I have ever had was that the back of the bolt carrier had a sharp ridge that chewed a circular groove in the buffer face. A few swipes with a file fixed that.

Edited by Darth Saigus
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DLT

 

only idiots preach mil spec, in most cases with the possible exception of staking the gas key, they are nothing special.

Commercial buffer tubes are stronger than mil spec 

 

Most US made parts at least meet mil spec.

Nothing wrong with a bushy, at one time they had one of the highest QC out there

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I use blue loctite on castle nuts also. I've never had one come loose, and it's a lot easier to remove if you decide to change buffer tubes for any reason.


Obviously the size of gas port also enters the equation.

 

My 10.5" 300bo is reliable with supers and a standard buffer.  Won't cycle with an H1.  I haven't tried subs yet because there is no point unless I get a can.

 

 

Gas port size is one of several factors. Shooting subs without a can isn't pointless--they are pretty quiet even without, especially from a 16" barrel. If you pulled the weights out of a spare buffer, you could probably get your gun to cycle them even without a can.

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Shooting subs without a can isn't pointless--they are pretty quiet even without, especially from a 16" barrel.

Let's run a pro/con on that...

 

Pro:

Slightly quieter than supers.

 

Con:

Energy of a 45ACP.

Trajectory of a 45ACP.

More expensive to shoot than supers.

 

I'll stick to supers until I get a can.

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I love me some subs.  I could sit at the range going "thump, ping" all day long if I could afford to keep feeding it.  I shot for less than an hour this evening and it cost me about 70 bucks in ammo.  8^(  I need to get off my ass and sell this house so I can move and unpack my reloading gear again.  On the bright side, I will have a lot of brass to work with when I do.

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My 10" 300blk SBR with pistol gas and an H2 buffer (Aero Precision upper) works fine with supers and subs.  I initially had some trouble cycling both ammo types when unsuppressed, but that ended up being extractor related and was solved by the addition of a 5 cent o-ring to help the extractor spring.

 

Some 300BLK guns will run reliably with heavy buffers, but some won't. Cycling reliability is a complex interaction between the pressure curve of the ammo, gas port size and location, the fit between the bolt and carrier, buffer mass, fit between the gas tube and gas key, hammer and action spring strength, magazine, and feed ramp geometry. Running a lighter buffer and an adjustable gas block gives you a much wider envelope to find a sweet spot where the gun cycles reliably with subs without over-cycling with supers.

 

I thought about doing the whole adjustable gas block thing, but ultimately decided I want to be able to switch configurations without screwing with adjustments...  My rifle runs in all 4 configurations and it doesn't seem to be overgassed.  Unsuppressed with subs, it deposits most of them on the shooting bench next to the rifle.  I tried both a carbine buffer and the H2, and noted no change in the issues I was having (which turned out to be an extractor issue), so I switched back to the H2 buffer that seems to be recommended for an SBR by most of the folks over at 300blktalk.com.  The rationale appears to be that with an SBR and pistol gas, the carbine buffer can allow the bolt to outrun the magazine, and the heavy buffer slows it down enough to prevent this.  But as far as that goes, I am just repeating what more experienced folks have stated, even if it does seem to make sense to me.  OTOH, with a 16+" barrel and carbine gas, the same people say to use the carbine buffer.

 

That being said, this is the first AR I have had, so take that for whatever it is worth.  I don't actually like ARs that much, and owning one hasn't really done much to dissuade me of that opinion.  If I didn't want to run subsonic ammo through a can, I wouldn't have it.  It's a fun toy as far as I am concerned, but kind of a bitch to clean.  I'll maybe shoot the occasional blacktail deer with it, but if I had to use a rifle to defend my life for some reason, I would still try to grab one of my AKs.  It's literally the AR hater's AR.  021.gif

Edited by Netpackrat
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Shooting subs without a can isn't pointless--they are pretty quiet even without, especially from a 16" barrel.

Let's run a pro/con on that...

 

Pro:

Slightly quieter than supers.

 

Con:

Energy of a 45ACP.

Trajectory of a 45ACP.

More expensive to shoot than supers.

 

I'll stick to supers until I get a can.

Actually cheaper if you reload.

 

I have piston and DI ARs. The DI guns get dirty sooner than the piston guns, but they can still handle 1000+ rounds without cleaning and still function reliably.

BTW, have you ever fired a G3? That design shits where it eats even worse than the AR, but that doesn't affect its reliability that much...

Nope, I has a USP v1 as a kid. It was nice, expensive and I made money on it. For years I refused to buy HK because they did not support the shooting sports industry, pre-obozo. They would give us some pistols but no rifles in auto loading model. They only gave that shit to police which was a very 40's German thing to do. I have shot clones and they all felt like shit. Its the star carry key that doesn't like shit. When you say AR builds since we were talking blackout. You managed to shoot a 300 blackout 1000 times without a malfunction? If so, I have some friend that will hire you on the spot.

Fuck this phone

 

I would just like to say that the 5.56 is a worthless piece of shit for mall ninjas and target shooters.

 

it is a great economical round for getting flat ballistics within practical ranges.

standardization and economy of scale makes it a great round to own & shoot - there is simply so much available for it w.r.t. reloading components, factory ammo, cartridge-specific accessories, etc.

 

I don't think it's the great general purpose rifle cartridge that many think it's do, but I enjoy shooting it.

if the US had adopted .280 British and the FAL, such as we agreed with the UK to do, neither the 5.56 cartridge or the AR would probably exist.

I shot the fun out of 5.56. It is a very accurate, flat, dependable round for target shooting with an astronomical amount of accessories and options. That being said, its a shitty round for killing anything bigger than a coyote.

 

I shot right at 3k rounds of handloaded 300 blk from an aac 8" upper with an h2 buffer and had exactly two malfunctions. One failure to load and one round got stuck in the chamber due to bad trimming of my cases. Where's this job? Lol

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