L5K

I don't know that I'd switch to Wolf over 7N6. Sure it may have the potential to create greater wounds, but the 7N6 rounds work just fine and the price point cannot be beat. I'm cheap.

Can you post a picture of them? Are they both the 90 degree shape?

Bulgarian parts worked fine for me... See if you can find someone to measure the inside diameter of a Bulgarian gas block. Mine's on my rifle so I can't measure it...

Just a heads up, if you don't get any hits here, I got those parts from a person on this forum named MARKW1, he is a great guy to deal with, and might still have what you're looking for. Other members here can vouch for him as well. Here is a link to his thread in the WTS section.

If it's the Tapco plastic folding stock, get a different stock. If you want a folder for it, a Romanian, Polish or East German wire folder will work great.

Guns used in Inception, link. I'm assuming you're talking about the SCAR, but here's a link to lots of pictures of the guns used in the movie, and a lot of other movies too.

If the parts in the WASRs are rejected parts, then the parts the original issued rifles were made out of are also rejected parts. It would be much safer and cheaper to send any rejected parts back to the foundry and make them into correct parts. This would be true under Soviet rule, and especially more true when sending the rifles to civilians, and even more so Americans who will sue over a cup of coffee being hot.

I'm simply stating facts. They are reliable solid rifles. If you don't like them that's fine, but the old "rejected" parts myth is just that, myth. As far as accuracy is concerned, the WASR, once again, performs like an AK should. Generally in the AK game a more expensive rifle will have a better fit and finish, or more collector's value. They all are about equal for accuracy as long as they are properly assembled. As others have said however, it really depends on how comfortable you are working on the rifle, and how much you want to get into the conversion. If you like to tinker and

"Better" is subjective. WASRs are made of used parts. Saigas are made of new parts. WASRs are made of parts rejected by QC (at the level the Romys actually do QC [sCARY, EH?]). Saigas are made of new parts. New parts versus used/QC rejected parts? ^^^^^^^^THIS You mean the Romanians, under Soviet control kept boxes full of thousands of "rejected" parts so that later, after the fall of the Soviet Union, they could build them into rifles (finally) and sell them to Americans? Somehow I doubt this logic. No, in fact, the WASR rifles are made just as wel

That handguard is just a standard polymer AK lower handguard. You will need either a bolt on retainer for it, or you'll have to remove the sight block, gas block, and then install a regular retainer. The rail on the top of it is an ultimak gas tube. It has a rail on the top and both sides. The red dot is most likely an Aimpoint Micro, or a Primary Arms Microdot (I think) as they both co-witness with the irons. Light looks to be a Surefire. For what it's worth, I would convert to a pistol grip only because to me, the factory Saiga trigger is really that bad.

Also, despite it's being a hive of scum and villainy, the subforums on Arfcom are actually chock full of information from people who are fans or just owners of almost any firearm you look for.

Pistons and carriers should be totally fine. Bolts are not. This is what I have always heard and read about replacing parts on any AK. I have replaces pistons in two of my rifles without any problems. From what I understand, the headspace entirely made up between the bolt and the trunnion/barrel. Basically the size of the lugs on the bolt, must match their locations in the trunnion w/ barrel in place. This is why there can be a discrepancy on some AK's where the carrier butts up against the rear sight block (carrier doesn't effect headspace). On some I have seen, there is a much larger gap

I do not know what the exact differences are, but I have heard thee bolts themselves are different, and the carrier's are too. The bolt and carrier in the Saiga 5.45 is of AK100 series design, and not the older AK74 design. IF one was to get a bolt carrier, and a bolt from a 74, they would probably work if you had the rifle properly headspaced to the bolt. I am not certain on this however.

I always use Alumahyde II, in the aerosol cans on my stuff. Holds up great. It's only available from Brownells, as they are the ones who make it.

Good luck finding one. The few made are supposedly the best optic ever, and nobody is selling theirs. The optic used in it was redesigned, and the whole mount would need a redesign because of it.

The triangle folders, and solid polymer side folders will clear the optics mount, but not any optic mounted to it. The polymer one even has a rectangular cutout so that it clears the side mount. When you attach an optic to the mount, it sticks out too far, and up too high to fit into this cutout.

I had always wondered this. Now I know.

If you ever want to run an optic mounted to your side rail, then a right side folder will allow the stock to be folded with the optic attached. Other than that it really doesn't matter to me which side the folder is on. I don't worry about firing with the stock folded.

While it's good to have places like this, the problem is exactly that. Some people live in places that cause them lots of problems with getting a CCW. Your rights should not hinge on where your house happens to be.

If you get a chance to steal the safety out of it, also steal the Beryl rail... Too bad it doesn't have the Beryl stock though

I did mine with a hacksaw, just to get a line started, and then used a rather large rat tail file. File, check, file, check, took me about 10 minutes.

Agreed. Never trust someone who is trying to sell you something.

It's really easy to figure out what not to get on any AK. US made means it's garbage. Plain and simple. Stick to small parts for US made parts. No US company has had any luck making a 5.45 barrel. Mossberg did make some for Lancaster that were nice, they threw brass twice as far as they should, and beat the rear trunnion out of the receiver because they were overgassed.

On my 5.45 Saiga the cover sticks much more so than any other AK I've ever took the cover off of. It requires actual effort and work to remove. Now that I think of it I may just fix this tomorrow.

The same could be said about any rifle though.