semper299

Probably because you only need to spend $50-$100 to 'own' an AR, the receiver at least. Build the rest at your financial leisure. If you're worried about a ban, buy one complete gun, use the parts to build your receivers, and keep a record book. BAM lots of pre-ban receivers. They really are Man Legos. Though I have more fun with my kids real Legos honestly. Funny, but the day after Christmas my daughter and I were in the floor of our living room playing with our presents.....she had lego land stuff, I had a stripped lower. I agree with buying stripped lowers if you are worried about

I bored mine out to .400.

Drill press is nice, but not necessary. Drilling out the rivets and doing the bullet guide is easier and quicker with a drill press, but a hand drill will work just fine.

Just be careful when you cut off the FSB. The shroud is not as thick as it looks. Nicking the barrell is okay as it will be covered up by the new FSB. Creating trenches in the barrell not a good idea.

Not really, but someone else may differ. Mine has vent holes, but I did not care one way or the other. Just the cheapest Bulgy 74 gas tube I could find at the time.

The ban on Russian imported bullets is what I fear the most. I was able to snag 1000 rnds of WPA soft points for $229 in early December.....just before full on panic hit. $300 shipped is not a bad deal right now, but far from the $200 shipped we were seeing just a few months ago.

J&G Sales has the 5.45 right now for $800. It is the "cheap" bare bones version. No converted front end. Personally, I would wait. That price is just not sustainable.

J&G sales has some in stock, if you want to pay that much. These are not the 340's with the converted front end.

THIS!!!!!

Others may disagree, but I filed mine till it fit and I would much rather have to file a bit to make it fit as opposed to one that is loose.

Yeah, I don't think that is a big issue either so I am not too worried about it. You have convinced me to bore mine out, so I dropped it off with a buddy of mine that has the proper equipment. I told him to take it out to .400.

When you bored your brake out, did the chrome lining survive or did it chip off?

Dremel, drill, cobalt drill bit, punch. All you need.

I did the same thing. I used JB Weld steel, then refinished the gun in Nurells. The bullet guide is not a high impact item on the gun, and mine has held up just fine, and looks like it was stock on the gun. Now, having said that, I would much rather have it tapped, but I screwed that up, and this is the second best option, IMHO.

I have the one from CSS, and it is very similar to the Dinzag model. Mine is tight, no slippage.

Could not have said it better myself...

Yeah, I was kinda thinking that same thing as I was casting aside a perfectly good and reusable trigger guard during the conversion. Oh well, live and learn.

Just wanted to update, in case anyone else runs into this problem. On the CSS trigger guard, I was having trouble with the front screw/nut preventing the hammer from going back far enough to engage the trigger reset, therefore preventing me from putting the bolt back in. I gound off the excess screw that protruded through the nut, and that was the problem. Works like a champ now.

Like others have mentioned, not originally on an AK, rubs my trigger finger, and is too much effort for the feature. Although they are not THAT hard to put back in, I just don't see the point. So, no, none of mine have it installed.

I keep all mags loaded. Steel AK mags, AR mags (pmags, SS, alum), pistol mags, ect. If the mag fails, I will replace it or some part of it. Better than trying to fix or replace my family because my mag was unloaded.

I am with the others on here that have used JB Weld. That was not my first choice, as I broke the tap off as well. I realize it is not the "best option", but mine is holding up just fine.

What FCG are you using? The only time that a nut was messing with anything here was with the Arsenal FCG, when the nut was slightly too large to go between the triggers legs, not letting the trigger reset. This was solved by filing down the nut just a cunt hair, and then timing it in such a way that it wont touch the trigger. Never had a problem with a nut and a hammer though. Tapco FCG and trigger guard from CSS. Yeah, this is the first time I have had this problem as well, but also the first time I have used the CSS trigger guard. The end of the screw sticks out maybe 1/8th of an

I have a Bulgy FSB and Bulgy Zig Zag Chrome lined 74 brake on my 7.62. Works fine.

I noticed you hid the nuts inside the receiver. I tried that, but the front one would not allow the hammer to drop back far enough to engage the trigger reset, which also means I could not get the hammer to drop far enough to put the bolt carrier back in. I put the nuts on the outside toward the trigger guard, and it works perfect. If I want to hide the nuts inside the receiver, do I just need to grind it down a bit until the hammer has enough clearance to put the bolt back on and engage the trigger reset? Thanks!

This +1. The middle rivet was the one I had the hardest time with. The other two were pretty easy. MIddle one took forever, and I had to use a drill bit one size larger to finish it off.