Gunfixr

Personally, I've always preferred the weld on back plate. It allows you to angle the back of the receiver to get the stock right so that the sights line up as they should when you shoulder the weapon. However, either CSS or MSA has recently come out with a bolt on internal block that has an angled rear face, which the Ace doesn't have. Also, the weld on ones do not come loose from recoil, unless whoever welded it doen't know what they're doing. I think that the welded on back plate boxes the rear of the receiver solid, which probably adds to it's structural integrity some, but that's just an

Also. I believe it's Remington, but it might be Winchester that recommends shooting their Foster type slugs through a Modified choke. It's printed right on the box. My first S12 had a Polychoke, but I wasn't all that impressed after using it awhile. My new S12 will have an internal tube, ImpMod, permanently installed under the flash hider that is also permanently installed at 18 1/4".

Hell, I can do it. Metric or standard, but like KingArmory said, it'll have to be below the diameter the barrel is now, or a step-up bushing would have to be fitted.

Yeah, the general gist was it would be a no-go, but it might be possible. It was going to be a big PITA for just 2 guns. I'm just redesigning it. I only got 2 kits, and will unlikely ever get any more. I was just looking for an easy way out. Fat chance.

........ A good example of this would be the letters from SWD about the open bolt Cobray MAC-10. First it had been rendered too difficult to convert, per the BATF, then they revered what they said in that earlier letter, now saying that it was too easy to convert. I contacted ATF about making a couple open bolt semiautos from subgun kits myself. The short answer was "no". The long answer was that it would most probably be considered an AOW. The only other way would be to send a sample version to Firearms Tech for inspection. It would be inspected, and, if approved, only then could it b

I prefer a light. I've had lasers on a few guns over the years, and they've always ended up being removed. I'm not going to count on some BG looking down at his chest to see the dot, and get scared. If looking into the bore of a 12ga won't scare him, then no dot will either. I just got a light to put on my S12 when it's finished. It's LED, output 200 Lumens. If it'll stand up to the recoil, it'll stay there. No remote pressure switch either, just mount the light where it can be reached. No wires to tangle or get ripped out. If he's not scared by the bore, then the light will blind

I removed the factory safety, and welded up the holes. The gun is almost done, just need to do the stock, and finish. The forearm is on, and the flash hider. I thought about a small pad to eliminate the scratch, but then the safety would move around by itself when firing. Also, when doing a conversion, I tweak the safety inside and out to make it easy to move, with positive detents at either position. Screw it, it's just a scratch. I got an AR, and it's got scratches on it, too, just in different places. Hell, even my FAL has got marks on it.

Is your S12 converted? If so, and you used a Tapco hammer, it has to be relieved to even hit the firing pin. But, you can relieve it to where it hits the pin, but is bottoming out on the frame cross member at the same time, which weakens the impact substantially. Combine that with some dirt........ Also, since the firing pin doesn't protrude when the rear end of the pin is flush, it's an inertial pin. Therefore, the impact amount is very important to making the pin come out with sufficient force to dent the primer.

I doubt it, that's an extra fine thread. Enco www.useenco.com, or MSC Supply www.mscdirect.com will have it. Travers Tool, maybe.

If it's the threads, and not the head end rubbing on the barrel, you just need to run a tap into the gas block. Be careful to get it straight, fine threads are easy to cross. You don't even need to remove the gas block. M22x1mm. If that doesn't fix it, then something's wrong with the threads on the plug, and it needs to be swapped out. But the original plug giving you problems suggests that it's the gas block.

I wouldn't even buy a Model 1 bolt, and wouldlook for something better before buying a DPMS bolt. Model 1 gets whatever parts are cheapest this week, no telling what crap you're getting. For bolts, you want good MPI tested parts. Colt, Smith Enterprises, BCM, etc. Twinsen, are you lubing the rifle? I mean really lubing the rifle. ARs like to be wet. So wet, in fact, that the first couple rounds sprays oil in your face. It also sounds like something in the rifle is not set up right. I know several people with ARs, both high dollar and not, who don't have to clean after just a few hundre

I have both, I like both, and they each serve a different purpose. I probably have more fun with my AR than with my S12, but it's pretty close. This is probably due to the range facilities where I am, lending themselves more to rifle shooting than shotgun shooting. As to the AR being a jam-o-matic, that's BS. I'll agree that the AK platform is more reliable than the AR platform, but ARs having to be squeaky clean? Please! If that's your deal, you bought a POS. I ran 1400+rds of Wolf through my AR, both lacquer and polymer, over about a year, leaving it sit for up to a month or 2 at a time

I might switch it out for a folder at some point, I don't know. I already had that one laying around, from switching to a folding handle on the STG 58 I had. The L1A1 I still have came with a folder, of course. If it all goes south, I can cut the cover back open and weld a Galil style handle on.

Actually, I posted some pics about amonth ago, right after it was basically done. Anyway, the gun's still not finished, but it's getting close. I'm trying to decide on a stock. I was going to make a custom telescoping stock, it would look a lot like an Ace stock, but telescoping like an AR stock. Problem is, I just don't have the time, and I'm getting close to needing a finished gun. I might just go with an AR style setup, using a Magpul or other stock, don't know yet. The flash hider's made, the handguard is done, the safety's done, and the charging handle. I'm just going to use HK sights.

Yes, it involved welding a track to the side of the receiver. First I made the track, then welded it on, then finished it. It required more mods to the gun than I had at first thought it would. No, it's not a forward assist charging handle. It wouldn't work on a bullpup, you'd have to dismount the weapon in order to work the handle, and, you'd be pulling behind your other hand. It would be awkward. I thought of a gas tube mounted system, but decided it would be even more work. In retrospect, it would be far easier to just stick a handle on that side, but I didn't want a big opening

I hadn't thought of the cross pin. I've heard of it, but not yet seen it. If it is the cross pin, then definately send it back, or make a shorty out of it. If it's just a burr on the gas port holes, then you can send it back or sand it out. It's not really likely to be the chrome peeling, possible, but not likely. Chrome lining sticks better than that, unless the job gets screwed up somehow. Even if the chrome were peeling, you wouldn't have a "pit" in the side of the bore, as the chrome lining is only about .003-.005" or so.

Welcome to the New Amerika. Where you are publicly degraded for not towing the party line, or for standing for what you believe in. We'll be in the same boat, soon enough, for believing in freedom and independence. It's already starting.

I'm putting an FAL handle on the left side of mine. As per the FAL design, it will not reciprocate when the gun is fired.

I think it was Wakko here who established that muzzle comps on shotguns don't do much, due to the low operating pressures of shotguns, and very low muzzle pressure in particular. Ones I have fired with comps differ very little than ones without. Heavier loads will increase this some. Shotguns with pretty much full length barrels aren't going to have a lot of flash either, except with heavy loads. Mostly they look cool. For my next Saiga, I'm making a flash hider, and it will have a permanently installed internal choke tube, ImpMod, as that's about all I used when I had a Poly C

Man, that's a great job ! Maybe I ought to send you any camo jobs I get.

Yep, you won a "vodka special". I've seen that before, but not that bad. It's burrs in the bore from drilling the gas port holes. They are drilled after the barrel is made, which means after the bore is chromed. The chrome is hard, much harder than the steel, and resists drilling. It dulls the bits fast. Combine that with entering the bore at an angle, which isn't a clean break, and you're dulling the bits even more quickly, even breaking them. Even with a new, sharp drill bit, there will be a small burr left where the hole comes through, so small as to be largely unnoticeable. As the bit gets

I bet Tony will just laugh this off. Anybody who knows anything about Saigas and their conversions, not to mention quality work, will see this for what it is. He just makes the rest of us look that much better. Anybody who would buy that wouldn't come to any of us anyway.

6500rpm, since I designed the gas plug, I can certainly explain it. The factory plug has the nub in the center, and this does two things; it keeps the flat face off the plug so that the gas can get in between them easier, as well as making a very small "chamber" of sorts, and it makes some room for debris. This keeps the debris from making a big difference in how the gun would perform. The counterbore on my plug has primarily the same effect, except that the counterbore means that the "chamber" is in the center instead of around the edge of the puck. This means several things. One, when the pu

Unless he changes his mind, I'm going to make him one, or two, actually.

Coming off, or wearing down? Coming off means improper preparation. Parkerizing is the best base for Duracoat. That said, I don't have the space for the setup, and don't Parkerize the ones I do. I do, however, sand blast down to bare metal everything I'm going to paint. Sand blast, not bead blast. Bead blasting is more of a polishing than anything else, and won't do any good. You probably cannot get the factory finish clean enough, due to any solvent being good enough will also cut the finish on the gun. Also, even if you get it to stick to the factory finish, that will come off, taking the D