Gunfixr

I didn't really think we were fighting. There were issues on both sides, they were not settled, we are seperating. I am not sure what you think can be done to smooth things over.

Tig all the way. Go as low a heat as you can and still get it on good, it's real easy to warp the gas block. Then, you'd have to run a tap into the threads, or if you warp the puck bore, polish it back in.

Well, I made a few pucks, and did some experimenting. I made a lightweight puck, since I was curious about one, and I made a regular puck, but longer. I actually made 2 lightweight pucks, one regular length, and one longer. I measured the space distance, and with either a factory gas plug or mine, the actual free space for puck movement is about .025", provided the plug is fully bottomed out. So, my longer pucks were made .025" longer. The test guns were a factory 19" barrel gun, made in '06, which had 4 factory ports. It was only slightly used, still plenty rough. he other gun was my own, wh

What kind of barrel did he use? I was thinking about one, and wondering if he had the same idea on the barrel.

Maybe. As of yet, I'm not sure, and I haven't yet had a chance to experiment on this. That free space allows a couple things. One, it makes room for crud build up without the bolt carrier extension bottomoing out on the puck instead of the receiver. Two, it allows some expansion space before the puck starts to push on the carrier extension, kind of a "running start". I don't think the running start is too big a deal, as you can tilt the muzzle up, dropping the puck back to the carrier extension, and eliminate it, and the gun still works the same. So, it's probably more to do with gas volume.

Actually, the threading will make a difference, but not a large one. The pitch is 1mm, which in inch measurement is about .039" from peak to peak. What this means is that depending on where the plug bottoms out, when it's backed out to the -1 setting, the differenc in the total depth can vary by as much as .039". For setting 1, whether + or -, the cut depth is about .050", which means this variance can almost double the opening. For setting 2, the cut depth is about .075" to .080", which means that the variance can increase the opening by about 50%. For setting 3, the opening is w

Good grief. All I did was to say that gas plugs of my design would no longer be available from MD Arms, and that they would be available from Carolina SS. Like many business members here, I have a lot of things going on. Right after I posted the OP, I logged off, and went on to the next thing. If that upset somebody, well I'm sorry, but I had many things to do before I could go to bed for the night. First off, the plug will not give more gas to the piston than the ports let through, and it was not designed to do that. At the time, "vodka specials" didn't even exist, they hadn't showed up yet

Due to issues between Mike Davidson and myself, MD Arms will no longer be producing the Gunfixr Gas Plugs. Greg at Carolina SS is now producing them, and they are available from him. I wish Mike Davidson all the best in any future endeavors he may pursue.

If I remember right, at the height of the receiver, 3 degrees inward at the bottom is about .074". I usually slap the receiver in the milling machine, hit the bottom, go in about .060", about 1/16' to 1/8" down, and run across. It's just a depth setting. Then, take it over to the belt sander, and make it a smooth transition up to the top. Voila! Right about a 2 degree or so drop. Looks good every time.

It is usually necessary to do some gas port modification even if you are just shortening the barrel enough to permanently attach a muzzle device, so yes, port mods will be required. Also, you will need some barrel past the gas block for back pressure dwell time. Tony has gotten them to work with only about 1 inch of barrel past the block, but I believe it was with only high brass loads. You can get them to work low brass loads with 2 inches of barrel past the block. Without moving the gas block, this means roughly an 11" barrel minimum. Moving the gas block adds a whole host of other adjustme

If he doesn't get you one, I got several of them laying around. You can have one of you want.

Whether or not the welded on handle is coming off or not will depend entirely on the ability of the welder. I put on Galil handles all the time, and haven't had one come off yet, at least that I know of, and they're much larger and heavier than the standard handle. Because of the shape of the Galil handle, it puts a lot of twisting torque on the weld, as opposed to a standard handle just trying to bend it back and forth. I undercut the joining surface edges all the way around almost to the center before welding, and fuse the center together first, so it's pretty much solid metal all the way t

The barrel is pretty much straight back to the gas block. Going that short will definately require gas port mods in order to get the gun to work. I don't usually bother with threading the barrel. I cut the device to fit with tapping it on, and blind pin it. Either 2, 3, or 4 pins, depending on the pin diameter. Personally, I drill and bottom tap the holes, and use gun screws or scope base screws, bottoming them out tightly in the holes, cutting them off flush and welding them in, then dressing down the surface smooth. This method leaves the barrel at full thickness, and allows the most dep

Well, I sure like mine, but it's an FAL style handle, and doesn't reciprocate. I don't think I'd personally want a handle flying back and forth right in front of my face. I did it myself. No, it requires the receiver and bolt carrier with bolt.

Yes, to be legal, you must remove the barrel, do the work, and then reinstall. If something should happen in between cutting the barrel off and getting the muzzle attachemnt permanently on, then you can be screwed. It's up to your ability to convince the feds you were in the process of making something that would be legal in the end. The facts would be that you were illegal when they walked in, so it's entirely up to them. They'd have an open and shut case. For a gunsmith to do it legally, they'd have to do the same thing, unless they're a properly licensed SOT Manufacturer. It is preferable

I turn barrels with the receivers still on, just like Saigatech does. It's no problem with a 4 jaw chuck. I don't think I'd put shims inside the receiver along the rails. First, it's a shotgun, what accuracy would be achieved. Second, it would be just about as easy to squeeze the receiver in some, if you're looking to tighten up the bolt carrier. Of course, reliability may suffer.

90 percent of my guns (which isn't a small number, more than I can use) are ready to go, and sighted in, as well as enough ammo on hand to get through just about anything. All my lights are in working order, and I have plenty of field gear, like LBE type stuff, to carry mags and ammo that I know works. I have spare batteries for the lights and whatever optics need them.

I been thinking about this for a year or two myself. Problem was, time and money to make it happen. So go for it. I think it will be badass. I know Tony will make it work.

I shortened a 20ga from 22" or 24" back to 18". It was much more difficult to get to work again than the S12. I need to get one one day to just experiment with, but then it's the only one I had to mess with.

I'm kind of working on a puckless adaptation to the S12, but it's not there yet. I have actually made a replacement gas plug that deletes the puck, and tried it in a basic 19" gun. The gun will cycle with high brass shells, but nowhere close with low brass. It was a quickie plug I hacked out in a couple hours. Sometime soon, I'll try something a bit different, and see what I can get to happen. I've heard rumors of Russian guns without pucks, but have no confirmation. If that's true, then there must be a way to do it. It'll be easier to make the self-adjusting plug work than this, probabl

There's a thread stickied somewhere dedicated to just this. SBS's I do have 4 ports, and use the standard springs, and will cycle low brass shells(maybe not Winchesters, but most).

Yes, he drilled the hole at an angle. Specifically, he drilled it at the opposite angle to which it was drilled before. That's why it's getting so much more debris. The new angle creates a small knife edge that now faces the shot charge, instead of away, and it scrapes off some plastic from the wad. If it's throwing low brass 20ft, it's overgassed.

Well, not as bad as some, but not a painless life. When I was 11, I got hit right between the eyes with a baseball, shattering my eyeglasses and driving them into my eyes. I didn't play catch with the local baseball team member kid after dark anymore after that. When I was 13, me and a friend were out hunting squirrels with air rifles, you know, the old Benjamin you could keep pumping up for an hour? Anyway, I was setting mine down, and it had a hair trigger (I started altering guns young), and it went off. Right through my right index finger. Blew out from under the nail,it was kinda like a

The easiest way to find all of the ports is with a paper clip. Straighten out one side, and bend a 90 degree leg about 1/4" long on the end. With the gas plug removed, and good light, you can feel around in the large opening in the gas block for the ports. Often, at least one of them is up against the front side of the gas block opening and cannot be seen. Also, the gas block opening is tapered, and larger where it meets the barrel. The gas ports are also drilled into the barrel angled towards the breech. This directs gas toward the gas puck, and helps keep wad fouling to a minimum. Like T

I just push it down next to the BHO, using a narrow set of pliers, slide the trigger pin through, then lift the end up over the BHO ledge using a small flatbladed screwdriver. Normally I install it with the trigger. When doing conversions, I put a notch in the ledge so that the spring won't slip off.