elvis christ 451 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I gather that it's to reduce the amount of force on the spring when shooting higher-power rounds, but what should it be set at when I'm shooting say, 2 3/4 bird shot? Right now the 2 is at about 7 o'clock (right side up) and the 1 is at 3 o'clock when I'm staring down the barrel. My main concern is that occasionally it jams up, because it's getting caught on the safety bar, and I was wondering if adjusting the gas piston would correct this, or if it just needs to be broken in more. It's gotten a lot better, it used to jam about every other round, now I can run 10 through it at a once most of the time, and it will only act up 1 out of 20 rounds or so. It's still an annoyance. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltham_41 52 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Start by screwing the gas plug all of the way in and see where it stops at. I think 2 but I dont have my shotty out so I could be wrong. If you are really lucky, you will have one of the ones that will shoot everything on setting 1, which is for the more powerful rounds. Some of them do. Just go out to the first position and then go back and forth between 1 and 2. Do not keep screwing out past the initial back and forth to go to the other number I hope I put this so it makes sense. Other than that, I would recommend 3 inch magnums, 3 inch slug and #00buck, 2 3/4 slug and #00 buck and the like on setting 1, stuff like low brass birdshot or mid brass birdshot would be on setting 2. That is my general rule of thumb. ( I do try any new round I buy that falls in the middle to see if it will cycle on 1 before putting it in the 2 catagory. This is how I do it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hunter78 1 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Probably just need to break it in more, or switch brands of ammo untill its broke in more. you can add notches with a dremel and really fine tune it, but its probably not necessary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BradCowin 0 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Probably just need to break it in more, or switch brands of ammo untill its broke in more. you can add notches with a dremel and really fine tune it, but its probably not necessary So its safe/possible to make a 1.5 setting? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elvis christ 451 Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Waltham, when you say screw it all the way in and see where it stops, where should the numbers be sitting? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrance@iacwds.com 716 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Doesn't matter. If it is screwed all the way in, then back it out to setting #1 or the next setting #2. Did you get a manual with your shotgun? 1911 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 If you take the plug all the way out and look at it on the backside you will see how it works and why there are just two settings. Halfway between either way and you are still basically using setting #1. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltham_41 52 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Doesn't matter. If it is screwed all the way in, then back it out to setting #1 or the next setting #2. Thanks 1911, that is what I was trying to say in my own confusing way If you start out on 1 and screw out to 2, you always go back in to 1, never continue screwing it out, just back and forth between the 2 settings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I was thinking of coming up with a 3-setting plug, but I don't really see a lot of need for it. I think it might be more of a gimmick than having any real use. Unless anybody here thinks differently. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 The multi-position plug has already been done. I don't think there's a need for it personally, and I wouldn't want to fool with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 When was it done? Is there a picture of it? I'd love to see it. While we're on the subject, and to send it down a different gun, is there anyway to put a Shotgun puck system onto a .308, then, using the gas settings, make ONE setting that is normal Semi-Auto, and another setting that is "Bolt-Action" to eliminate the throwing of brass? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 There are pictures of it here somewhere, maybe I'll try a search later. Yeah you can put a shotgun gas block onto a rifle; Tony has already done it. But if you just want to kill the gas system a relief valve should do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 (edited) Here ya go: C&S Metal Werks "The ones I designed were 6 position (2 + 4 extra). Once you go from #2 setting (wide open) to the 90-degree mark, the gas-port is closed. You have 90-degrees to work with. You can only get 4 detents cut, in that amount of space. The reason I went to the trouble of making them was because I wanted a 'turn-knob' on them. I would never go to the trouble of doing them again, too much work just to get the knob, which is rarely used. Lathing them out of steel, milling the detents, milling the knob, then heat-treating.... a lot of work for what it is, imho." Now, if you could design a self-regulating gas system for the S-12, then you'd have something. Edited April 4, 2008 by BobAsh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 There are pictures of it here somewhere, maybe I'll try a search later. Yeah you can put a shotgun gas block onto a rifle; Tony has already done it. But if you just want to kill the gas system a relief valve should do it. I want to be able to choose whether I want Semi-Auto or Bolt Action. Would there be a way to bleed the gas out of the system before it hit the piston? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 If you sufficiently vent the gas block it won't cycle. Not that it would be "easy" to do, but probably easier than converting to a shotgun gas block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I have a friend who is trying to do the same thing with his PSL (vent the GB so he can shoot the heavier ball ammo). He's planning to tap a screw thru the side that can be removed to vent the extra gas. I'm not sure that's gonna work. I have seen videos of AKs firing and cycling with no gas tube even intalled. I guess by the time the gas reaches the tube though it's done it's job already. That's why the vented tubes don't reduce the pressure, only keep the action cleaner. ...my .02 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfanatic 221 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Why not just use one of the grenade launcher gas block with the gas system shut off? The one on my yugo worked pretty well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aresv 49 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 A grenade launcher gas block on a PSL would look funny. Simpler just to tap it and add a removable screw plug. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfanatic 221 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 On the Saiga shotguns , just remove the floating piston and it would be a bolt action. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ironbarr 0 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 When replacing/reinstalling the puck, is there a particular side to go in first? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ironbarr 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 (edited) Start by screwing the gas plug all of the way in and see where it stops at. I think 2 but I dont have my shotty out so I could be wrong. If you are really lucky, you will have one of the ones that will shoot everything on setting 1, which is for the more powerful rounds. Some of them do. Just go out to the first position and then go back and forth between 1 and 2. Do not keep screwing out past the initial back and forth to go to the other number I hope I put this so it makes sense. Other than that, I would recommend 3 inch magnums, 3 inch slug and #00buck, 2 3/4 slug and #00 buck and the like on setting 1, stuff like low brass birdshot or mid brass birdshot would be on setting 2. That is my general rule of thumb. ( I do try any new round I buy that falls in the middle to see if it will cycle on 1 before putting it in the 2 catagory. This is how I do it Just checked mine... scewed in tight the # 2 just passed detent.... backed out to detent. I suppose that means maximum gas pressure to run the bolt using low-level loads - backing out to #1 would reduce gas pressure allowing for high-level loads. If the above is the correct analysis, please confirm. Thanks. Edited April 5, 2008 by Ironbarr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kellysguy 1 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Instead of tapping for a plug to relive gas, use a plug to BLOCK gas. Back it out some when you want it to work. I was thinking Yugo grenade cut off too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltham_41 52 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 That is how I understand it. The shape of the back of the gas plug controls the amount of gas that the piston gets to cycle the shotgun. Just dont keep screwing out every time you change settings. Go back and forth IE loosen and tighten between the settings, not loosen, loosen, loosen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtnichols 51 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Yeah, except mine won't tighten all the way up where I would think it should be, #1,.. #2,... But it seems to work like it should, except mine doesn't cycle the light rounds on a shortened barrel. Which leads to,..... This weekend only Gas Block Knock off!!! Gasp Port Reaming!!! Drilling new Gas Hole,...!! Sounds rough ,but I'll report back on how it goes,,.. all Directions and dimensions etc ARE FORM THIS SITE!!! YEEEHAWW PAW! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltham_41 52 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Yeah, except mine won't tighten all the way up where I would think it should be,#1,.. #2,... But it seems to work like it should, except mine doesn't cycle the light rounds on a shortened barrel. Which leads to,..... This weekend only Gas Block Knock off!!! Gasp Port Reaming!!! Drilling new Gas Hole,...!! Sounds rough ,but I'll report back on how it goes,,.. all Directions and dimensions etc ARE FORM THIS SITE!!! YEEEHAWW PAW! Let us know how it goes, I think it would be fun to hip fire some light brass birdshot from a short barrel saiga. If nothing else, for the bling effect, know what I mean? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 ... scewed in tight the # 2 just passed detent.... backed out to detent. I suppose that means maximum gas pressure to run the bolt using low-level loads - backing out to #1 would reduce gas pressure allowing for high-level loads. If the above is the correct analysis, please confirm. Yes, #2 is twice the gas. Also see here: Tromix S-12 Service Tips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ironbarr 0 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 ... scewed in tight the # 2 just passed detent.... backed out to detent. I suppose that means maximum gas pressure to run the bolt using low-level loads - backing out to #1 would reduce gas pressure allowing for high-level loads. If the above is the correct analysis, please confirm. Yes, #2 is twice the gas. Also see here: Tromix S-12 Service Tips. Roger that. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wickeddeus 0 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 (edited) Alright, I just got a my Saiga 12 recent and it came out of the box with the 2 at 7 o'clock and the 1 is at 3 o'clock if I'm looking down the barrel. Does this mean that the regulator is set to the 2 setting which should be used for light load or the 1 setting for heavy load? I just want to be sure since it's a new toy. If anyone has pictures that would be great. Thanks. Edit: Mine is set just like the one in this picture. Edited April 8, 2008 by wickeddeus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 That picture shows the #2 setting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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