Battosaii 99 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 well i was bored so i decided to remove my FCG from my s12 to reprofile and polish it... well i thought it was the same process as removing the axis pins from factory but i guess i was wrong this is what happened lol oh well i should have listened to everyone and gotten a plate i guess thats what im doing now to CSS! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwentyNizzo 66 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 I've had to destroy every wire I've removed. I just don't know how to get them out without ruining them. That being said, my arsenal S12 FCG simply does not work with the retaining plate due to the shape of the disconnector. I do miss the flexibility of being able to pull the fcg out at a whims notice, but I don't mind the Tromix wire either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battosaii 99 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 im having a hard time getting that piece of wire stuck in the axis pin now doh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 I've had to destroy every wire I've removed. I just don't know how to get them out without ruining them. 2:19 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCY2QyWIlC4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battosaii 99 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 wish i saw that video before lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 wish i saw that video before lol I posted it in my vendor section. I post tips there sometimes. Here's something else for those of you who have ammo collections that you've been working on for a while; http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/65103-dont-shoot-old-ammo-with-paper-wadding-through-your-s-12/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Sorry to hear it broke on you. I always have had a tough time removing them myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwentyNizzo 66 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 I've had to destroy every wire I've removed. I just don't know how to get them out without ruining them. 2:19 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCY2QyWIlC4 I couldn't tell from the video, what exactly did you do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 I've had to destroy every wire I've removed. I just don't know how to get them out without ruining them. 2:19 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCY2QyWIlC4 I couldn't tell from the video, what exactly did you do? Take a medium to wide flat blade screwdriver & place the edge of the blade flat on the bottom of the receiver & the side of the blade against the side of the receiver between the 2 axis pins & against the end of the short end of the shepard's crook, then simply pushing the screwdriver's handle toward the barrel while higher up the screwdriver's shaft presses against the tied up mainspring with the hammer's axis in the coil it gets a slight amount of leverage & the bottom of the shepards's crook is pushed rearward which opens up the part of the spring wire that's wrapped around the trigger's axis & the shepard's crook comes right off. It's really quick to work with a shepard's crook when you get the technique down & I've heard of plates breaking from quite a few people so I use the Tromix crook for reliability. That's why this topic really caught my eye. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fauxknight 30 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Take a medium to wide flat blade screwdriver & place the edge of the blade flat on the bottom of the receiver & the side of the blade against the side of the receiver between the 2 axis pins & against the end of the short end of the shepard's crook, then simply pushing the screwdriver's handle toward the barrel while higher up the screwdriver's shaft presses against the tied up mainspring with the hammer's axis in the coil it gets a slight amount of leverage & the bottom of the shepards's crook is pushed rearward which opens up the part of the spring wire that's wrapped around the trigger's axis & the shepard's crook comes right off. Thats pretty much the technique I used a couple of weeks ago, takes 2 1/2 hands and scratched some finish off the inside of the received with the screwdriver, but it was the only way I could get that thing out. Its a pain to get in and out, so I was planning reinstalling with the plate. Unfortunately I just ordered some miscellanious items from Greg earlier this week (that should arrive today) and forgot to order the plate! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrmallek 53 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 To go shooting - you can always swap in some e-clips or external retaining rings if you have the correct snap ring pliers. i don't suggest this for repeated use but for a day of recreational play - it'll work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
presto_z 125 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 I simply modify the factory wire retainer so there is no need to purchase another. It is also easily removable. If you take a factory saiga retainer and trim off most of the coils. you can then put it over the hammer pin, go under the trigger pin, and insert the safety through the coil to keep it retained.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 If choosing e-clips 2 fit on each pin. It makes it so they can't shift. 1 on each pin is iffy & there's been reports of them coming off, but 2 on each can't shift & will not come off. They're annoying to work with & not my first choice due to being so small & easy to lose, but they ain't going anywhere with 2 in each pins collar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jpanzer 1,265 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) I've tried everything to get the axis pins flush like they are supposed to be in my S12. Shephards crook, retaining plates, all of them had issues and wouldn't enable both pins to seat as they should. I HAD to go to e-clips. So far so good with those... Edited May 12, 2011 by Jpanzer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csmw 98 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 I throw them in the trash and install the Krebs retainer plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 I use a Klein 11-in-1 in the same technique that Pauly uses. The fatter shaft of the 11-in-1 makes it a quick and painless job, re-installation is a breeze too, I'm not really understanding why it's so hard for most people... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beefcakeb99 572 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 I throw them in the trash and install the Krebs retainer plate. WTF don't do that!!! send them to me!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beefcakeb99 572 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Just so everyone is clear, the crook did not fail here, it did as it was supposed to do. He didn't even try to remove it. He punched the pin out while the crook was still on. I see no reason to switch to a plate because of this. A plate would have done the same thing, might have even messed up the pins as well. Of course, I am one of the few that are still a fan of the shepards crook. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
incognito485 26 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 If some of you guys are having problems with the crook or retaining plate, I've used the retaining wire that fits in an AK. You can modify the portion that goes under the front axis pin to work with the S12. I've shot hundreds of rounds through the gun without any problems with it. It holds up just fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battosaii 99 Posted May 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 well since i broke it and took it out might as well show you guys what i did with the hammer lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gremlinx 20 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 The plate is the way to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleTapDrew 4 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 That being said, my arsenal S12 FCG simply does not work with the retaining plate due to the shape of the disconnector. I do miss the flexibility of being able to pull the fcg out at a whims notice, but I don't mind the Tromix wire either. I got mine to work. You have to grind a little on the tab of the safety lever where it contacts the disconnector. That area doesn't affect the operation of the safety anyway (pull the trigger with the safety on and you'll see where it actually blocks trigger operation). That way it will clear the disconnector so you can use the plate and install the safety straight in and rotate it down, clearing the disconnector. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beefcakeb99 572 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 The plate is the way to go. Nope That being said, my arsenal S12 FCG simply does not work with the retaining plate due to the shape of the disconnector. I do miss the flexibility of being able to pull the fcg out at a whims notice, but I don't mind the Tromix wire either. I got mine to work. You have to grind a little on the tab of the safety lever where it contacts the disconnector. That area doesn't affect the operation of the safety anyway (pull the trigger with the safety on and you'll see where it actually blocks trigger operation). That way it will clear the disconnector so you can use the plate and install the safety straight in and rotate it down, clearing the disconnector. Doesn't seem a little redundant to have to modify parts to fit a plate that doesn't belong? Or getting a plate that is out of spec that you have to modify? Crook is the way to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmzzl 146 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 The plate is the way to go. Nope That being said, my arsenal S12 FCG simply does not work with the retaining plate due to the shape of the disconnector. I do miss the flexibility of being able to pull the fcg out at a whims notice, but I don't mind the Tromix wire either. I got mine to work. You have to grind a little on the tab of the safety lever where it contacts the disconnector. That area doesn't affect the operation of the safety anyway (pull the trigger with the safety on and you'll see where it actually blocks trigger operation). That way it will clear the disconnector so you can use the plate and install the safety straight in and rotate it down, clearing the disconnector. Doesn't seem a little redundant to have to modify parts to fit a plate that doesn't belong? Or getting a plate that is out of spec that you have to modify? Crook is the way to go. That being said, get the plate anyways, and don't listen to zappa Quote Link to post Share on other sites
setlab 11 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 (edited) Wait, correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like you took a hammer and beat that pin out, shearing the shepards hook on the receiver in the process. You just blew my mind with a whole lot of WTF. But OK I guess its your gun. Edited May 13, 2011 by setlab 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwentyNizzo 66 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 That being said, my arsenal S12 FCG simply does not work with the retaining plate due to the shape of the disconnector. I do miss the flexibility of being able to pull the fcg out at a whims notice, but I don't mind the Tromix wire either. I got mine to work. You have to grind a little on the tab of the safety lever where it contacts the disconnector. That area doesn't affect the operation of the safety anyway (pull the trigger with the safety on and you'll see where it actually blocks trigger operation). That way it will clear the disconnector so you can use the plate and install the safety straight in and rotate it down, clearing the disconnector. I refused to grind on the crucial portion of the safety, possibly compromising it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwentyNizzo 66 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 If some of you guys are having problems with the crook or retaining plate, I've used the retaining wire that fits in an AK. You can modify the portion that goes under the front axis pin to work with the S12. I've shot hundreds of rounds through the gun without any problems with it. It holds up just fine. Nobody is claiming the Tromix wire doesn't hold up. It works great. It just a pain getting it out to where it can still be re-usable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
incognito485 26 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 I never said it doesn't hold up. I said if "you're having problems with it try the wire" I prefer the Tromix wire. But it can be a pain to deal with if you haven't messed with it much. The retaining wire has held up good for me too, and it's easy to install and take out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Just figured I'd throw this in to help anyone who's at odds about how to reuse their retaining wire. There's several ways to do it. Needle nose pliers work great for bending. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csmw 98 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Actually, it looks good....nice job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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