Quinc 0 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Still waiting for that Russian AK reliability... And my newest issue is the pin that holds the hammer in is loose and will not stay in place. Anyone know any fixes for this other then a spot weld? Other issue that I cant seem to fix is the spring that holds the bolt release down keeps coming off. I have tried filing a notch for the spring to sit in and bending the end of the spring down. Still comes off... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 The pin is held in place by a small spring wire or plate. A weld is not required to keep it in place. I'm sure someone has photos showing it. Also the spring falling off your Bolt release could be the spring being in wrong. One leg is longer than the other. These two things are the saiga equivalent of having a flat tire. Its annoying but not something that makes it junk. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quinc 0 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Which springs are you talking about? I put a e-clip on it and it seems to hold. Doing sporting clays tomorrow so hopefully it lasts 100rds. =/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big John! 2,062 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) An e clip is not the answer for the hammer pin. You will lose the trigger pin sooner or later.. You have parts not installed right or missing. It sounds like you are missing the shepards crook. Did you convert it? Can you post a GOOD pic if the inside of the gun at the FCG? Specifically the left inside wall where the pins go through. This really isn't a big deal. Just hard to diagnose without seeing. As for bolt release, it's early and I'm trying to figure out what this one is and can't get my head around it??? Edited March 9, 2014 by Big John! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mixednuttz 123 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 The hammer pin is the pivot point for the bolt catch. If your hammer axis pin is sliding out of the reciever, your bolt catch will fall out. Like Big John said, the shepards hook is probably the cause. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunman1 1,753 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 The hammer pin is the pivot point for the bolt catch. If your hammer axis pin is sliding out of the reciever, your bolt catch will fall out. Like Big John said, the shepards hook is probably the cause. This is why most of us installed a retaining plate during conversion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mixednuttz 123 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 The hammer pin is the pivot point for the bolt catch. If your hammer axis pin is sliding out of the reciever, your bolt catch will fall out. Like Big John said, the shepards hook is probably the cause. This is why most of us installed a retaining plate during conversion. Yep, the retaining plates are awesome. I have them in all of my AK rifles/shotguns. Makes it real easy to remove and re-install the trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Another +1 for the retaining plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 I have used E-clips... and have *NEVER* had one come off... AND... That's after firing thousands of rounds... NO WORRIES on MINE... YMMV... IMHO, etc... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 This pic shows the Bolt Hold Open lever with the longer of the spring legs in position. It also shows the modification allowing for easy manipulation of the safety during maintenance. Is the E-Clip actually in the groove on the pin? It can be easy to not get clips, springs an etc, seated correctly into this groove an the pin will walk. I also use and recommend an axis pin retaining plate, there are a few to choose from, I prefer this one. http://www.carolinashooterssupply.com/product_p/css-shotgunplate.htm Others use the various retaining springs, e.g. Shepherds Crook, and they too work. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 This pic shows the crook. Its the wire on the left side running from the trigger pin to the hammer pin. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) There is an image showing different retainers and how they are supposed to be installed. I don't have it tho, anyone care to post it.... Edited March 9, 2014 by Mullet Man 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SGL 530 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 There is an image showing different retainers and how they are supposed to be installed. I don't have it tho, anyone care to post it.... 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 On my home conversions I used the factory wire and went: Over the hammer pin under the trigger pin and then around the safety lever hole. Its roughly like taking century original (right) and flipping it around like the Chinese L wire.. It puts about 5-10 lbs of force against each pin rather than 2-3. However I'm switching to the retainer plates, the wires are just too hard to get in there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quinc 0 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Thank you for the replies! The E-clip worked but after 2 shots the trigger stopped working... It is not converted and has never been taken apart past cleaning and lubing. When I first bought it I had to send it off to have the gas ports drilled/fixed. She maybe has about 500rds through her too. Taking her apart now, I will post back if I find the issue. Thank you again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunman1 1,753 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Put a FCG and pistol grip in it and be done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quinc 0 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 There is an image showing different retainers and how they are supposed to be installed. I don't have it tho, anyone care to post it.... Mine looks like this: and the Trigger stopped working because the cable thing came off the left side. Put a FCG and pistol grip in it and be done I know what a BCG is but what is an FCG? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunman1 1,753 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 There is an image showing different retainers and how they are supposed to be installed. I don't have it tho, anyone care to post it.... Mine looks like this: and the Trigger stopped working because the cable thing came off the left side. Put a FCG and pistol grip in it and be done I know what a BCG is but what is an FCG? Sorry..."fire control group" hammer sear and trigger. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quinc 0 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 There is an image showing different retainers and how they are supposed to be installed. I don't have it tho, anyone care to post it.... Mine looks like this: and the Trigger stopped working because the cable thing came off the left side. Put a FCG and pistol grip in it and be done I know what a BCG is but what is an FCG? Sorry..."fire control group" hammer sear and trigger. After dropping 70 on a poly choke 2 that I am not impressed with I think I am done spending money on it. Well maybe some new furniture.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunman1 1,753 Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 There is an image showing different retainers and how they are supposed to be installed. I don't have it tho, anyone care to post it.... Mine looks like this: and the Trigger stopped working because the cable thing came off the left side. Put a FCG and pistol grip in it and be done I know what a BCG is but what is an FCG? Sorry..."fire control group" hammer sear and trigger. After dropping 70 on a poly choke 2 that I am not impressed with I think I am done spending money on it. Well maybe some new furniture.... Changing out that piece of shit trigger setup is the first thing you should have spent money on, IMHO. Trying to make it look good won't make it run good. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Pate 478 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Still waiting for that Russian AK reliability... OK, I think this verse has been repeated to the point of attributing some kind of mythic properties to any Kalashnikov-based designs. The Kalashnikov is indeed a very robust design that can typically continue functioning under adverse conditions that would cause other weapon systems to stop functioning... ...THAT BEING SAID: ANY properly manufactured and set-up weapon can function to an approximate degree of reliability, just as ANY improperly manufactured and set-up weapon can malfunction including the AK. It is NOT magical. OP, sorry for the rant. I promise I am not picking on you. Its just that this gets repeated so often people seem to have the idea that there is something wrong with their AK if they ever experience a single malfunction. I hope you get your gun fixed up. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MLM0358 107 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 On my competition gun I used E clips, but also drilled and tapped for small cap screws. Washers allow the axis pins to still rotate. Can still disassemble, Flats on the opposite side allow tightening of the cap screws. I found this to be the best combination of reliability and ease of disassembly. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Billybobf 50 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Cool idea, I always wonder why someone couldn't make a set of pins that could just be hammered in and punched out? Maybe with a detent spring? Would save a lot of hassle to those unfamiliar for sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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