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Here are photos of my S308 barrel threading to M17x1 adventure! I started by removing SGM bolt on break (which I'm selling in the classifieds) to expose the front sight block. I then knocked out the pins and used my makeshift aluminum punch (.410 snap cap) to knock the front sight off the barrel. I then bored out the back of the front sight by .04" by going around with a dremel grinding stone. I know it's not precision work, but it's just the front sight and it's an AK. In hindsight, I would have sent it to Dinzag to have it done because of the fast turnaround time and the

As I described earlier in this thread, I had my S-308 threaded in a lathe, locally by a gunsmith friend of mine. He's done several barrels for me, and so far no baffle strikes. He didn't need the barrel removed from my .308... His lathe is large enough to take the whole barreled action, and the back of a standard AK receiver can be clamped in a 4 jaw chuck, and the barrel indicated to true with the muzzle in a center. A friend had him do a VEPR and we had to press out the barrel for that one since the slant cut receiver wouldn't work in his lathe chuck. No biggie if you have the tools.

Agreed. Another suppressor. Plus the fact that right now language is in the HPA draft bill returning the $200 bucks should the HPA pass during our very long can processing time wait? PS: Elite Iron used to frown on home done barrel muzzle threading. Their cans are very precise. Potential baffle strikes. They used to want to do it themselves. Dunno about now.

If you wait for the HPA to pass you will probably never buy a suppressor.

Nicely done indeed. How does the Saiga print on target left to right using the factory OEM iron sites ... if the rear iron site still exists? What we did was about the same only before drilling those pesky pin notches in the bottom front barrel was to instead clamp the entire front site base down using small cheapo C clamps. One in front, one in the rear. We used 2 small pieces of flat stock to hold everything together. Then the whole thing got test fired at 100 yards to see how where the bullets went. Some rocking adjustment side to side was needed. Then reclamped down hard. When t

Went shooting this weekend with my 21.5" .308. Not to sound like a wimp or anything, but every time I pull the trigger on that thing, it's like a punch in the mouth. I need to do something about that recoil. It's weird but I think my Rem 700 7lb 308s recoil is tamer than my 10lb 308 Saiga. It's still fun to shoot, but getting a brake on it has moved up on my priority list.

Consider taking it to a gunsmith and having the barrel lathe threaded. With a 16" barrel you only get one chance to do it right, and if you ever want to mount a suppressor, you will kick yourself if you used the redneck DIY method described in the above posts. OBTW a suppressor really makes the 16" .308 much more pleasant to shoot. True story... Last year I was shooting my .308 for groups with the can on, and the guy at the next bench over asked if that was a silencer. I said that it was, and he said "doesn't seem to be doing much good." So I took it off, and fired a group unsuppress

Rock on man. Thanks for write up. I like how you widened out the back of the rear sight so you didn't have to re-profile the shoulder on the barrel. I just converted mine. Used the Strike Industries stock adapter and the new Magpul SL K stock, to keep the length adjustability range tight and the butt small like a traditional AK stock. ALG Defense trigger is 3.5 pounds. I think that I'll do the thread job you did. Good stuff.

Nicely done, I did the same a few months ago and put the same muzzle brake on. I wish I would of seen this post before I did it. I had a hell of a time putting the FSB back on and I had to pound the crap out of the original FSB pins. When I shot it the aim was off. I don't use a scope so I had to get a front sight tool to sight it in. I think I put it on a cunt hair crooked but it shoots great now. I did notice the 74 muzzle break was louder, but recoil was reduced.

Question: what prevents you from using the original FSB pins in the new hole and original hole to re-mount the FSB?

You're welcome! Best of luck and hope it goes smoothe!

You presented a very nice technical piece and have motivated me to get the tools to thread my 308. I have been looking at the misplaced fsb on it for almost nine years. Thanks.

Thanks for this post. It made me brave enough to just go ahead and do mine. I was going to send it out, but after reading this post I went for it with the little dremel sanding wheel. I needed to bore the back .45" out an additional .025". I went slow and measured many times. Pounded it back on with a rubber mallet, re-set the original pins, and viola! Of course I also fixed the slight cant of the factory front sight install. Thanks again! I saved a little cash and now feel smart enough to fix the cant on the front sight of my other AK.

Wow - thanks for all your kind remarks - I hope this will be a help to anyone wanting to thread their bbl.

Most excellent. Hooah

Done.

I see enough questions about threading the .308, that this should be pinned by one of the Mods to the .308 thread... (hint, hint Indy, Drew, ETC...) Great Job - BTW! Macbeau sends...

+1, looks like ya have done a few in the past.

Good job!

Very nice job on the rifle and write up.